G&G Inspired Nitestands

[glenn bradley]

I have mentioned these here and there in other posts. I have only recently gotten a couple of days to give them some serious effort. Feels good to work in the shop instead of in my head ;-)

I am using mitered and pegged tenons. I thought to use the coping sled to make quick work of the tenons but had already cut the shoulders so . . . no backer board. I put a small chisel tap on the line at the exit point:

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Tenons mitered fine:

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This is the general appearance from the rear (no drawer yet) without the lower shelf. My design includes the shown Blacker House leg details and pegged, emphasized-finger-joint drawers:

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The breadboard top is typical G&G. Material is ash with ebony for the plugs. I've got a reasonable number of shots about the build that I'll post after I get past removing milling marks and such. Still pondering the finish.

[Vaughn McMillan]

Those are gonna look nice, Glenn. I'll be staying tuned for updates.

[larry merlau]

nice touch on the relif cuts on the legs glen,,that ash will look nice when its finished!!!

[Rennie Heuer]

Very handsome looking table. I'm a G&G fan - can't wait to see the finished project!

[Cody Colston]

Another Greene & Greene fan here, too. I'm looking forward to seeing the finished piece.

[Toni Ciuraneta]

Thanks Glenn.

I must admit that I'm also a fan G&G and this is thanks to you ( or you to blame?:D)

The first time I knew abouth them was due to one of your posts ( your box remember?) then I looked for information and I became a G&G enthusiast.

I see the rebates on the legs, have you followed the instructions given in Darrel Peart's Book " G&G Design elements fo the workshop?

I look forward to see that table finished. Please keep posting!:thumb:

[glenn bradley]

Toni,

There is so much to enjoy about G&G's work. The leg detail is right off G&G's Blacker House chairs and Darrel does give examples of them (and a lot of other nice details too). These two detail shots from the Gamble and Blacker Houses always get me:

[Toni Ciuraneta]

Toni,

These two detail shots from the Gamble House always get me:

And me as well, together with the columns or pillars of the exterior of the Blacker house that are tied together with three "U" shaped steel stripes tensioned by wedges.

[glenn bradley]

I see the rebates on the legs

I have some time today to take the machined legs to the first stage of shaping. Four sides done, 28 to go . . . Maybe I'll actually finish these as a Christmas present to myself ;-)

[Rennie Heuer]

Ooooooooooooooo I like it. Did you use the jig described in Darrell Peart's book?

[glenn bradley]

Yeah, slight adjustments as these are table legs. Very quick to build and brings out the rough shape easily, just like it is supposed to . . . . hey, I don't have a shot of that.

Just a sec . . . .

Here you go . . . Mine is pocket-holed as I had sold my biscuit joiner and not built my little Colt biscuit jig yet when I made this:

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Just for grins, here's the "sanding station". I have a footswitch hooked to the vac for cleanup between steps. My ambient cleaner is right overhead. The little rubber sanding shapes come in handy for this sort of thing:

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[Lee Laird]

Glenn,

Wow. These are looking good. I really like the G & G styling, too. The second of the two pictures you posted showing the multiple pieces strapped and wedged is just awesome stuff! I know you've said your not sure how you'll finish them. When I made my wife a similar sized table out of Walnut, I used multiple coats of Tung oil followed by some Black Bison past wax. It wasn't expected to see really hard service and makes people just want to touch the surface. While I'm not up on the norm for G&G stuff, it always looks like I'd have to feel the softened edges if I saw it in person. I've not seen the book that's been referenced, but I just may have to check it out.

Look forward to updates and your finished product.

Regards,

[Toni Ciuraneta]

I have some time today to take the machined legs to the first stage of shaping. Four sides done, 28 to go . . . Maybe I'll actually finish these as a Christmas present to myself ;-)

Those look grat Glenn!, and once you have the jig the rest is just devoting time to it. 28 of those may take a while but... eventually they'll look great and you'll be really satisfyied! kEEP UP WITH THE GOOD JOB!!

[Mark Wingate]

Glenn, your nightstand is looks so nice, heck you could even show it in the day time. :rofl:

Very Nice work.

Mark

[glenn bradley]

Funny, this doesn't look that different than the dry fit shot above, but so much has happened. The edges are all rounded, the tenons are all fit, the peg holes are all chiseled out, the sides are glued up and I'm on a roll. After getting delayed to the point where I almost didn't care if I ever finished them, progress is being made :thumb:.

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Tomorrow night I should be able to make the drawer guides and possibly finish the leg-apron-lower-shelf glue up. Then it's on to the ebony work, build and fit the drawers, finish the top assembly, consider drawer knob designs and . . . hey, wait a minute; . . . I'm no where near done :rofl:. I need to start the 'finish sample' board too. I'm leaning toward a BLO, Naphtha, Varnish mix that I have been playing with. I better hurry before that brutal SoCal winter kicks in. It was below 80 a couple days last week! Brrrr.

[Rennie Heuer]

Glenn,

Those tables are turning out VERY well! Something like them has been on my to-do list (a very long list) for some time. Right now I'm completing them vicariously.... hope you don't mind.:o:rofl:

[Bill Satko]

Glenn,

I am also keeping a watch on your progress for the same reason Rennie stated. Keep up the posting!

[larry merlau]

that he would have them done by now they have more daylight out his way o the west caost:)

[Russ Massery]

Glenn, I know what you mean about feeling you'll never finish a project. I started the chairs back in March. They look great I'm a big fan of G&G too.

[glenn bradley]

Hey, this staying home from work thing is pretty nice . . . . gotta go back tomorrow, break's over.

Using the lower stretcher guide holes as a . . . well, guide; I drill the peg holes that will hold the lower shelf. The square top portion of the holes will have typical G&G pillowed square pegs in them.

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The tops are just setting on the leg assemblies (and not too straight at that). The drawer from the proto-type (made out of milled down pallets from LOML's work) sets between. I have the drawer parts cut and the cloud lifts shaped on the fronts. Time for the finger joints . . . .

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I'm still getting used to the new camera so the color is weird. It's humbling when your camera is smarter than you are ;-) The odd color on the front of the proto-drawer fingers is where I wiped it with some leftover shellac from another effort.

[Rennie Heuer]

I am sooooooooooooooooooo following this thread!

[Toni Ciuraneta]

Using the lower stretcher guide holes as a . . . well, guide; I drill the peg holes that will hold the lower shelf. The square top portion of the holes will have typical G&G pillowed square pegs in them.



Hi Glenn.

I have a question to you or whoever want to answer, I see that you first made the square hole and the drilled the hole for the peg afterwards. As I never made one of those I wonder if that is the way to do it or if the order doesn't matter.
To me it makes sense the way you did it because it lets you align perfectly the square holes and then just drilling the round hole on their center.

I think I answered the question myself....:huh::doh:

[glenn bradley]

Hi Glenn.

I have a question to you or whoever want to answer, I see that you first made the square hole and the drilled the hole for the peg afterwards. As I never made one of those I wonder if that is the way to do it or if the order doesn't matter.
To me it makes sense the way you did it because it lets you align perfectly the square holes and then just drilling the round hole on their center.

I think I answered the question myself....:huh::doh:

I think you did too Toni. In this instance I am using 5/16" square plugs and 1/4" peg to hold a non-glued through tenon. I drill 1/4" holes from the top edge of the stretcher down into the mortise opening but no further. I then square the holes with a chisel to 5/16".

After assembly I use the 1/4" holes as guides to continue the 1/4" holes through the tenon and into the stretcher material on the "other side" of the mortise opening. I then drive glued 1/4" pegs into the holes that pass through the tenon and position them as to leave each end of each peg planted in the stretcher on both sides of the mortise/tenon but recessed enough on "top" for me to cover all this with a square plug.

[glenn bradley]

When machining large finger joints, your best friends are a sled, setup blocks and a stop block.

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Once you're set up, you can really knock them out pretty quick. These are the sides with the fingers that will sit proud of the drawer front.

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As I shifted to make the mating fingers on the drawer fronts, all went well on number one. On number two the second cut left a finger that was too thin. How did this happen? My stop block didn't move. I checked the finger position over the dado ZCI and it fit perfect. Then I figured it out.

I use the jig shown here with the toggle clamps on it, to pattern route the cloud lifts. The material is referenced off the top edge by seating it against the jig's "fence". On the drawer in question there was a piece of "something" between the top edge of the drawer front at one end and the jig's reference fence. End result? The piece sat askew and I routed in a difference in height of about 1/16" across the length of the drawer front via the cloud lift shape.

Looks OK:

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But Noooooo:

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Had I caught this prior to cutting the fingers, I could have worked around it. The drawers will need to be fitted and I will easily lose a total of 1/16" from somewhere . . . .

Oh well. I grabbed a piece of 8/4 ash off the rack, selected my victim and cut out a chunk. Face jointed, edge jointed and planed the faces parallel. I did a resaw on the bandsaw and planed off the saw marks a bit. The original stock and the resawn boards are shown in the pic.

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I'll have to let the boards relax for a few days before final milling and then I can resume the finger joint activity. This actually sort of works out as I am back to work tomorrow anyway.

[glenn bradley]

Alright, having made up another set of drawer fronts I'll get back to the finger joints. I'm a big fan of setup blocks as they allow easy repeats of cuts. I use a stop block and a scrap to position the 5/8" wide cut, 3/8" from each outer edge. The MDF backer board is handy while setting height. I want a zero clearance exit point so if I set the blades too high, I will ruin the vertical ZCI while test cutting. I just slide the sacrificial piece over once I've got the height I want figured out.

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I add a 1/4" setup block to scoot things over and I get pair of 7/8" openings. Like on the first set of cuts, I do one cut and then flip the piece to do the others. Automatic even spacing.

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This ends up matching the negative of these cuts I did earlier for the sides. They sit proud by 1/8" at the front where they will be rounded and left pronounced. They sit proud about 1/32" at the sides and will be made flush as I fit the drawers.

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It is interesting to note that except for height I do not have to alter the dado stack to complete all these cuts.

Using the drawer sides as a reference edge I run the material across the dado then turn it and run again. I now have a centered slot ready to accept the drawer runners and still no changes to the stack except height ;-)

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[Toni Ciuraneta]

Thank you very much for all this thorough thread Glenn.

As I'm a G&G fan too, I've bookmarked it so that when I'll make some G&G inspired project I can come back to it and make my life easier thanks to you:thumb:

Please keep on posting and up with such a high standard job!!

[glenn bradley]

Whether you care or not, I needed a coffee break, so here goes . . . There's plenty of ways to make these. Here's what I've ended up with. Bearing in mind that these are decorative caps to cover the holes for the structural pegs . . .

This jig is almost directly taken from the wonderful book by Darrell Peart. I always wondered what I would do with that wimpy little miter gauge that came on my small sander . . . took a while to find what I'd done with it.

The motion is back and forth in the slot whilst spinning the blank round and round. This gives me a consistent pillow shape with well defined shoulders:

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With a sponge backer and some 400grit I move as though I am drawing a lot of little circles:

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Then the same motion with some 600grit:

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Then some hand polishing with finer grits (if I do much more of this I think I will get a rouge wheel for the grinder like Darrell):

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Of course I could just lop the end off on the bandsaw. But why do that when I can use the super-duper-specific-depth-setting-pillow-peg-jig? Different holes of different depths for different peg locations on the piece.

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And the beginning of the end result, many more to go:

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[Rennie Heuer]

I can't tell you ho happy I am that you're 'test driving' all this for me! When it comes time for me to dive in I know the waters will be warm and comfy. Thanks!

[Kerry Burton]

Very cool. Can't beat the end result!

[Toni Ciuraneta]

Well, you just did it Glenn,:doh:
Next project I'm going to do will be G&G inspired, so another thing to blame on you.
This G&G projects are addictive, aren't they?:thumb:

[larry merlau]

doing a fine job of showing all the steps in making these glenn,,bravo for your extra effort.. if i can just get to where i can do two things at once ,perhapes i can do some pics of the next project i get into.. thanks again for your attention to details.:thumb:

[glenn bradley]

I can't tell you ho happy I am that you're 'test driving' all this for me! When it comes time for me to dive in I know the waters will be warm and comfy. Thanks!

By now everyone knows these have taken wayyy longer than planned. The upside is that once I realized that, I just took my time and enjoyed the ride. Now that all the jigs are made the next pieces should go a little quicker.

I used the jig to make the pegs on this scrap-bin doorbell cover for LOML (no finish applied in this pic):

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Well, you just did it Glenn,:doh:
Next project I'm going to do will be G&G inspired, so another thing to blame on you.
This G&G projects are addictive, aren't they?:thumb:

I really want to tackle a Gamble House piece next. Seems like I can't get enough of that clunky, exaggerated joinery.

doing a fine job of showing all the steps in making these glenn,,bravo for your extra effort.. if i can just get to where i can do two things at once ,perhaps i can do some pics of the next project i get into.. thanks again for your attention to details.:thumb:

One word describes the thing that helped me with my horrible picture taking skills . . . . tripod ;-)

[Stuart Ablett]

Hey Glenn, I'd been following along with this thread, and then I missed it for a little while, checked in today and WOW, you have been busy, I guess you earned that coffee break :D

I've not really seen much of this style, but I'm starting to like the look of it too.

You have infected us :eek:

:rofl::rofl::rofl:

Cheers! :wave:

[Norman Hitt]

Those Pillow Face Pegs look really neat, Glenn. Sheesh, the next thing we know, you'll be in the jewelry business cutting and polish Gem Stones with it.:rofl::rofl::rofl:

[Vaughn McMillan]

Like Stu, I'm just now catching up to the latest in this build, but it's looking good. Looking forward to seeing more.

...I really want to tackle a Gamble House piece next. Seems like I can't get enough of that clunky, exaggerated joinery...
Considering the fact that I live only a few miles from the Gamble House, I really need to make a trek over there some weekend. I really enjoy driving through some of the Craftsman neighborhoods in the area...it'd be great to see the inside of one of the best ones.

[glenn bradley]

Considering the fact that I live only a few miles from the Gamble House, I really need to make a trek over there some weekend.

I lived in Arcadia for awhile so maybe being so close, I caught the bug without realizing ;-) Only $10 for a 1 hour tour: http://www.gamblehouse.org/tours/index.html

Or $40 for the 'secret' tour if you want to go hard core:
http://www.gamblehouse.org/tours/velvet-ropes.html

[Rennie Heuer]

I've had the pleasure/privilege to take this tour twice. I would heartily recommend it to anyone who likes wood, woodworking, or architecture. You will see more mahogany and teak than you may have ever seen in one place before.

[glenn bradley]

I managed to squeeze in a little time between Christmas presents, fixing LOML's washing machine, hanging a ceiling fan, going Christmas shopping and all those other things that get in the way of our shop time.

Both drawers are done but here's a shot of the rough assembly on the left, the shaped fingers and drawer front on the right and an ebony peg ready for cut-off.

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The old GameWorks card makes a good protector during the flush cut.

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Shear the peg flush so it will clear the case . . . oops, I'll have to do that later ;-(

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Now I have to clean up to go to a LOML's Christmas party for her work. I guess I may not finish these as a Christmas present to myself after all.

[Bill Satko]

I guess I may not finish these as a Christmas present to myself after all.

Glenn, I think just working on this project is the present. All my projects recently have been something that is needed and not necessarily what I would call fine woodworking. I look forward to your next post.

P.S. I am curious how you find bending the saw like that works for you. I have always had better results just cutting it flat, but I am using a flush cutting saw (also Japanese style).

[glenn bradley]

Glenn, I think just working on this project is the present. All my projects recently have been something that is needed and not necessarily what I would call fine woodworking. I look forward to your next post.

P.S. I am curious how you find bending the saw like that works for you. I have always had better results just cutting it flat, but I am using a flush cutting saw (also Japanese style).

The saw bend was just fooling around for the pic. I saw flat as well. Of course, with me, you never know :wave:.

[Norman Hitt]

Glenn, I think just working on this project is the present. All my projects recently have been something that is needed and not necessarily what I would call fine woodworking. I look forward to your next post.

P.S. I am curious how you find bending the saw like that works for you. I have always had better results just cutting it flat, but I am using a flush cutting saw (also Japanese style).

Bill, I'm not Glenn, but I've been using a really cheap Harbor Frt saw (like the one Glenn shows), that I bought a few yrs back, (just to see how I liked one), and it works GREAT either flat OR bending it like Glenn shows, (which I do most of the time). I assumed that if I liked it I would need to buy a good one, but after a couple of hundred cutoffs it's still working like new and I even use it to make fine trim cut offs on moldings.:dunno: I can't believe anything "I Bought" so cheap would work so well, for so many different applications and last so long.:D

[glenn bradley]

As long as I'm dragging these out till doomsday, they may as well be chronicled. This is the method I prefer for wooden side-runner drawers. They are adjustable and stay put once aligned.

The runner has a number of holes in it based on the length of run or weight anticipated for the drawer. All of these are counter-bored with two or three of them having over-sized counter-bore holes. At the first stage all through-holes are the same.

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Once the runner is generally in position, mark or drill the larger counter-bore receiver holes (in the apron) using the runner's through holes as a guide. Now drill out the through holes of the oversize counter-bore holes to a size 1/16" or so larger than the screw shaft. This allows for adjustment and the "other" holes can then be used to make the position fixed.

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[larry merlau]

drag it out as long as it takes glenn ,,its lookun good and informative never get to much info..

[glenn bradley]

Ooops, forgot shots of the drawer in place. . .

[Toni Ciuraneta]

As long as I'm dragging these out till doomsday, they may as well be chronicled. This is the method I prefer for wooden side-runner drawers. They are adjustable and stay put once aligned.

The runner has a number of holes in it based on the length of run or weight anticipated for the drawer. All of these are counter-bored with two or three of them having over-sized counter-bore holes. At the first stage all through-holes are the same.

26612

Once the runner is generally in position, mark or drill the larger counter-bore receiver holes (in the apron) using the runner's through holes as a guide. Now drill out the through holes of the oversize counter-bore holes to a size 1/16" or so larger than the screw shaft. This allows for adjustment and the "other" holes can then be used to make the position fixed.

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Keep them coming Glenn, eventually I may ask you to build a couple of those for me:)

BTW Are roberston screws those you're using on the runners? Have they cilindrical heads like Allen bolts? Any specific reason for that?

[glenn bradley]

BTW Are roberston screws those you're using on the runners? Have they cilindrical heads like Allen bolts? Any specific reason for that?

The cylindrical head on these is a little lower profile than a regular pan-head but, as it turns out I had plenty of room after planing the runners to size so any quality pan-head would have done.

[glenn bradley]

I've been working on these too long. While fitting the drawers, these curlies just cracked me up:

[Rennie Heuer]

I've been working on these too long. While fitting the drawers, these curlies just cracked me up:
I think there's a hole in your plane iron. It keeps missing a spot.:rofl::rofl::rofl:

[Reg Mitchell]

Nice looking tables Glenn. I love G&G stuff. I do most of my things in the arts and crafts.
Reg

[glenn bradley]

Thought I'd post the spline fit as it is a recurring theme in a lot of G&G stuff. The rectangular spline blank is cut from some oversize stock and block planed to fit. Remembering this piece is decorative but functional in that it allows for wood movement while filling the slot and adding visual interest. The spline is glued to the top but not to the breadboard. The top can expand and contract and the spline slides in the breadboard slot.

The slot appears in the top and the breadboard. These are cut prior to assembly and have different depths.

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Here the thicknessed spline has been rough cut on the bandsaw to basic shape. The spline should fit like a dovetail or an M&T joint when dry fit; snug but without the need of a mallet to set it.

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A pass with the router takes it to 3/32" proud.

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A final pass leaves a 1/16" proud spline to match the pillow pegs that are coming next.

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A little hand chisel work to ease the edges and the overall surface will get sanded along with the rest of the top. BTW, the top is upside down in the last shot to better show the reveal.

[Mark Kosmowski]

I'm reading this thread for the first time. Things are looking really sharp!

Also, I liked seeing the jig you used in the miter slot on the router table in your original post. I need to make something like that.

[glenn bradley]

Still deciding on a pull. I've got it down to two handmade selections. Here's the spline and the drawer fingers worked in.

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The various elevations between breadboard, top, legs and such.

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I'm leaning toward a dark mission sort of a color. I don't want to go too dark or I'll lose the contrast between the ebony and the ash. Not much chance of that in this shot; talk about screaming for some kind of finish.

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[larry merlau]

wait a min glenn you still need to do some more sandun.. the bread board end is thicker than the the top.. hurryun to much wernt ya:rofl::thumb: yup they are beggin fer sure.. nice job

[Bill Satko]

Very nice work Glenn. Looks just like all those Greene & Greene photos that have been in Popular Woodworking the last few months and the last issue of Fine Woodworking. I will be interested in how the finishing turns out.

[Rennie Heuer]

Glenn - you've got to be super proud of this - it looks great!

[glenn bradley]

A couple of you have been good enough to smack me for skipping over some details. Anyone who has Darrell Peart's wonderful G&G book has seen some variation on these techniques. A simple bench stop allows back-beveling of the pillows. The little riser just helps position the plug to the height I want and is not necessary:


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Start the cut just below the shoulder. The idea is to ease the insertion pressure required and to expose a clear shoulder break that is proud of the surface after the plug is set:


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A Glue-bot makes getting the glue in the tight spots without a mess really easy:


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I knew those free AOL CD's were good for something besides starting that man-made reef off the Florida coast:


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Presto, consistent depth plugs:

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I make the plugs a bit oversize. The forced fit takes care of any imperfections on your square hole plus it just feels good to drive them in ;-)

[Toni Ciuraneta]

Still deciding on a pull. I've got it down to two handmade selections. Here's the spline and the drawer fingers worked in.

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Hi Glenn.

Those look great! However, I have question for you if I may.

As the pins of the drawer will only be seen when the drawer is open, what made you not to put one pin on the center tenon of the front??

[glenn bradley]

Hi Glenn.

Those look great! However, I have question for you if I may.

As the pins of the drawer will only be seen when the drawer is open, what made you not to put one pin on the center tenon of the front??


Thanks Toni. I did a mock-up of a drawer with pins as you describe but it looked a little busy with the drawer pull and splines. The pull is not in place in the pics so the front view looks a little plain. I think you'll see what I mean once I get the pulls in place ;-)

[Ron Roase]

Glenn: What a great thread. Was wishing it would never end. Was so informative with all the neat pictures and explanations. It is pretty obviouse that you have done this many times before. Fantastic job on the tables. Would like to learn more about this style of building. thanks again for sharing.
Ron:D:D:thumb:

[Marshall Border]

Sharp Glen , be checking back for the finished project ........ Marshall..:type:

[glenn bradley]

In my ongoing attempt to have the longest thread on the forum . . . I know, I know; Ned's shop will always win out.

I finally decided on a pull style. I prefer to work some ebony parts once they are built in to the piece. This (for me) avoids a bolted-on look that we fat-fingered folk have a knack for.

A problem can be the transfer of dark wood dust onto the unfinished lighter wood, in this case ash, that is a pain to remove. So just to help someone from having to figure this out through the DAMHIKT moment I had awhile back. I do this:

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The inlay in this case is a fat 1/32" proud of the pull face. After sanding and shaping, I use a blow gun to remove the dust and then I remove the tape. This let's me shape and burnish the ebony without boo-boo's.

[Toni Ciuraneta]

I do not know if it will be the longest thread on the forum but I can't stop my mouth watering and turning green of envy when I see your pieces Glenn.

Thanks a lot for being so thorough in your posts, maybe you should consider writing a book.:thumb::thumb:

[Dan Noren]

i've just gotten hooked a bit with greene and greene, and have been having all manner of evil thoughts about projects. :D

beautiful work guy, keep it up!

[Rennie Heuer]

I do not know if it will be the longest thread on the forum but I can't stop my mouth watering and turning green of envy when I see your pieces Glenn.
Shouldn't that be Greene with envy?:rofl::rofl:

Me too. Lovely work Glenn.:thumb:

[Norman Hitt]

BOY, I Really LIKE those.:thumb::thumb::thumb: I do believe you're about to get the Hang of this Green & Green thing, Glenn.:rofl::rofl::rofl:

[glenn bradley]

I was cleaning out my picture folder and realized I had never posted these things with the finish on. My usual photographic skill is evident as always :-)

[Toni Ciuraneta]

So Glenn, you finished the long time ago and didn't tell us? naughty, naughty boy.

You had me wondering all this time, I was even thinking about pm you and ask abou them.

Those are really gorgeus, and it looks as if you had stolen them from the Blacker house.:thumb::thumb::thumb:


BTW the radio set looks a bit out of place:rofl:

[Royall Clark]

Very nice Glenn, Toni's right.... the radio is just too modern for that piece. It needs a nice Crystal set with head phones!!:rofl:

[Rennie Heuer]

Fantabulous!:thumb::thumb:

[Norman Hitt]

As I learned to say in that "John" Carnegie course, "Absolutely Fantastic".:thumb::thumb::thumb: Glad you discovered the pics and remembered to share them with us. I really like the color and the way the finish came out.

[Vaughn McMillan]

Superb work, Glenn. :clap: I really like the relief cuts on the bottoms of the legs. Nice subtle little touch.

[Greg Cook]

Really outstanding, glenn.:thumb: I hope to be able to build some like yours one day. Do you have any plans for additional pieces? Larger pieces like a hutch or buffet?

Thanks for posting.

[jerry mayfield]

As everyone has said wonderful.

Jerry

[glenn bradley]

Do you have any plans for additional pieces?

Thanks everyone. These are the first two pieces of a bedroom set. I hope to avoid the on-again, off-again construction pace that these poor fellas went through. That way I'll have a highboy and a lowboy to use while I'm still young (relatively speaking). LOML is after my current coffee table for her house so I may have to build a replacement before the other bedroom stuff ;).

[Tom Niemi]

Real nice :thumb: and more to come :eek: SWEET!!!

[larry merlau]

Very well done glenn,, that ash took your color well,, and the details shine threw out the work...and your documentation of this process was just as good...:thumb::thumb:

[glenn bradley]

Oh yeah, Sketchup mockup to actual pieces: