"Last Supper" needed a frame.

[Robert Schaubhut]

A good client from the past called needing a frame for a cast piece she bought for a small church they (she and her husband) support. The color of the wood they have there is medium pecan.

These are photos of the front and the back of the casting. She called it pewter, I'm not sure, it doesn't matter.

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Shaz :)

[Al killian]

Are these see thru frames?:D

[Art Mulder]

Are these see thru frames?:D


SSSSShhhhh!!! ;)

"The emperor has no clothes on!" :rofl:


...art

ps: I see the standoff posts, Shaz, so I'd go for something "floating" mysefl. Maybe a large panel. Hmm, or maybe an open frame that intersects at each post, so you just get the ends sticking out beyond the piece. That might be interesting also. Looking forward to see what you picked.

[Al killian]

How long are the pin/post? Is there any chance of cutting them down to where they can help hold the casting into a frame.

[Robert Schaubhut]

Are these see thru frames?:D
Hi Al :wave:,
Evidently you can't see it:huh::rofl::rofl::rofl:...S
SSSSShhhhh!!! ;)

"The emperor has no clothes on!" :rofl:
Hi Art :wave:,
Shhhhhhhh, share that with no one!!!!!!!:rolleyes:.....S


...art

ps: I see the standoff posts, Shaz, so I'd go for something "floating" mysefl. Maybe a large panel. Hmm, or maybe an open frame that intersects at each post, so you just get the ends sticking out beyond the piece. That might be interesting also. Looking forward to see what you picked.
Thanks Art for you ideas. It is stimulating to consider your options knowing..... there will be an answer, Let it be.:doh::rofl::rofl::rofl:

How long are the pin/post? Is there any chance of cutting them down to where they can help hold the casting into a frame.
Al,
The posts are standing out approximately 1 3/8" from the back of the casting. Before you read on consider how you might handle them and still wrap the casting with a frame.... S :huh::D

[Robert Schaubhut]

It was suggested that the piece would be hung on a wall, however we know, We have several options! :rolleyes: We know,.......They don't, as of yet!;)

It is already heavy.:eek: !!!!!! What do you think some options are for presenting the piece, for viewing by the congregation?
Shaz:huh::rolleyes::D:)

[Al killian]

Shadow box?

[allen levine]

this is why they gave the piece to you to mount.(if they were my friends, and asked me, Id send them your email and tell them to hire you)


now, no laughing here:

Me, Id go out and buy myself some nice 8/4 stock, glue it all up 18 inches wider than the piece on all 4 sides..
Then, as the amateur I am, Id go buy me some heavy duty uh, dont know what they are called, heavy duty round steel clamps, like a hose clamp, but 1/2 inch thick. Use those 1.5 inch pegs in the back, holes large enough for the clamps to fit(countersink in back) and room to tighten them(allen wrench stuff, like a drill bit stop kinda clamp), put those pegs in back of the artwork, through the wood, clamp them secure, and hang it

[Darren Wright]

Any chance of being able to drill and tap those pegs for mounting? could mount it out from a background piece either a natural wood finish or cloth. then build out a frame with a 2-3 gap around the piece. Could even light it from underneath to create a halo effect.

[allen levine]

Any chance of being able to drill and tap those pegs for mounting? could mount it out from a background piece either a natural wood finish or cloth. then build out a frame with a 2-3 gap around the piece. Could even light it from underneath to create a halo effect.


that would be too easy.

[Robert Schaubhut]

Shadow box?
Hi Al :wave:,
That would work!:thumb:
S :)

this is why they gave the piece to you to mount.(if they were my friends, and asked me, Id send them your email and tell them to hire you)
Hi Allen :wave:,
Don't negate your ability to solve this problem.
S :)


now, no laughing here:

Me, Id go out and buy myself some nice 8/4 stock, glue it all up 18 inches wider than the piece on all 4 sides..
Then, as the amateur I am, Id go buy me some heavy duty uh, dont know what they are called, heavy duty round steel clamps, like a hose clamp, but 1/2 inch thick. Use those 1.5 inch pegs in the back, holes large enough for the clamps to fit(countersink in back) and room to tighten them(allen wrench stuff, like a drill bit stop kinda clamp), put those pegs in back of the artwork, through the wood, clamp them secure, and hang it
Very interesting idea Allen! This also has merit! .S :)

Any chance of being able to drill and tap those pegs for mounting? could mount it out from a background piece either a natural wood finish or cloth. then build out a frame with a 2-3 gap around the piece. Could even light it from underneath to create a halo effect.
Hi Darren :wave:,
I considered the drill and also the tapping, but not knowing the strength of the metal posts, and considering the weight I went a different way.
The idea of wood and/or cloth with the space behind leaving the opportunity for lighting is an interesting one. Thanks.
S :)

This is the way I went.
I measured the casting, and then the border. The border was 2 1/2" wide, I divided the border in half. That equals 1 1/4". I added 1 1/4" to the 2 1/2" and come up with 3 3/4". That is the dimension I decided to add on each side of the frame, and the top. They wanted a bit more room for a plaque at the bottom so I made it about 6". Lets say it was 39" wide, I made a 3/4" birch plywood piece 39" + 3 3/4" left side and +3 3/4" right side...= 46 1/2" wide and you can do the math for the height if it was 26" tall.
I centered the casting over the plywood and marked the position of the posts then cut 1" holes to fit the 5/8" posts due to the fact that they were crooked. Dropping the posts into the holes I centered the casting again and determined how much of the plywood needed to be cut away (due to the protrusion of metal on the back side of the cast) so that the casting would lay flat on the plywood. This determined I cut a hole in the plywood and dropped the cast in place

24697

I cut extra space for a hanger loop I thought I might use, next to the 2 upper posts.

24698

Here are the loops I thought I would use for hanging.

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I decided against that and just made washers to cover the oversized holes and attached my band clamps.

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Here is a picture of the back with the hole cut and the band clamps on.

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[allen levine]

I never mind helping out a family member.
Feel free to email anytime in the future with any questions.

[Rennie Heuer]

Robert - you're an artisan. I knew you would figure it out.:thumb:

[Robert Schaubhut]

I never mind helping out a family member.
Feel free to email anytime in the future with any questions.
Hi Allen :wave:,
Do I need send money to retain your services?:doh: Sorry, I should just send check!:rolleyes:
S :)

Robert - you're an artisan. I knew you would figure it out.:thumb:
Rennie Rennie Rennie :wave:,
I didn't even know you had time to follow this one. :D
Thanks for being you.:)
Shaz :)

Let see now :huh:, we have the cast locked into the plywood.

Let us turn it over and add corners and some connecting wood.
I decided on mahogany corners and spalted pecan connecting strips. The corners, like most stop blocks, will be thicker than the connecting strips. As you see here the block is set with a piece of spalted pecan to it's left.

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This next photo is one of the corner block set and the connecting strips in view. Note the connecting strip running up under the block, on the left shows a visible difference in width from the mahogany block.

24727

[Rennie Heuer]

Rennie Rennie Rennie :wave:,
I didn't even know you had time to follow this one. :D
Thanks for being you.:)
Shaz :)
Shaz, I follow all your threads.:thumb:

[allen levine]

that spalted pecan is some nice looking wood.

[Robert Schaubhut]

Shaz, I follow all your threads.:thumb:
Thanks Rennie! :wave:...S
that spalted pecan is some nice looking wood.
Yes it is beautiful wood. I did a theater one time using a mix of the spalted pecan, spalted sycamore and spalted hackberry. They are all 3 beautiful and the spalting takes it to a different level.

Anyway let us proceed.
We have
#1 a piece of plywood larger than the casting and
#2 with the cast set into it we have covered the plywood surrounding "The Last Supper" with corner blocks and connecting strips, all attached from the back.

All the blocks and connecting strips are over sized. They all hang over the edge of the plywood. Due to the irregularity of the casting, each piece was cut to fit the casting and the result is "the over hang of the plywood differs. What is next? how do we square the frame?

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Shaz :)

[larry merlau]

well shaz seein as how you are suffern from memory loss:D i will atempt to help you out here first take n measure the side margine at the top and the bottom of each side. lets say its 2" at the top and 2.25 at the bottom you only have one choice 2" then do the same for all four sides come up with at least one no for the top and bottom and one for the sides make decsision as to which one looks the best in your eyes.. both the same or one bigger than the other..then set your table saw fence to cut one side the measure the total distance left and make a parrel cut for the other side then go tback and do the same for the the lsat remaining sides at 90 degrees with a panel sled.. i wont charge you for this worhtless info:D:rofl: now tell us the right answer

[Robert Schaubhut]

Dear Larry :wave:, Thanks :), your help is quite valuable and may be use on the next frame, if that should ever occur. Seems my memory has returned!:eek::rofl:
Remembering :huh:, where were we:rolleyes:, Oh yes cutting the frame to square.
Since some of the corner blocks hang over 1/8" and some are over 1/4" and the connecting strips were scribed to fit and then cut to length, we have no regular parallel sides.

The onlay is just that, on top of the 3/4" plywood.

The overhang is no more than 5/8" at any given point.

Thus,

I ripped a board about 4" wide. I will used that up against the table saw fence.
Now we need a setting for the tablesaw fence. Turning the frame upside down and putting the 4" ripping against the plywood, I measured from the edge of the 4" ripping across the frame to the other side of the plywood. Remember, in post #11 I said that the plywood frame was 46 1/2" wide.
Add the 4" and deduct 1/4" = 50 1/4". That is where I set my fence. Using the 4" ripping against the fence, under the overlay but up against the plywood I am able to cut off approximately 1/4" of the frame on that one side.

This first photo shows the 4" board being used
#1 against the fence,
#2 under the overlayed mahogany and spalted pecan
#3 against the plywood used as the sub frame.

24749
The 4" piece just happens to be a piece of crosscut walnut plywood.

These next photos show a continuation of the same procedure for the other sides.

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24752
24753
Shaz :)

[Robert Schaubhut]

Once finished with the squaring of the piece I ran apiece of 1/4" x 1" piec if pecan around the perimeter amd tacked it on.

24905

This done I could add a clear coat, sprayed on lacquer sanding sealer and then used 220 sand paper.

24906
24907
24908

This is always a nice touch, you know, adding a topcoat to the raw wood.
Shaz

[Robert Schaubhut]

It just wasn't popping out like I thought it should. I took a chance.:eek:
This is what we had... In the frame...24909

24910

24911

24912

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Nice, but no cigar...............
Shaz

[Vaughn McMillan]

And then...

;)

[Brent Dowell]

I like the suspense that Shaz can generate with these stories...

[Robert Schaubhut]

Since I was using lacquer, I merely added some tint to the clear lacquer and went beyond that point of getting back.

24916

Was it a mistake?
Was this move a :doh::( ,
or was it a :thumb: :D?
:huh:
Shaz :)

[Art Mulder]

Was it a mistake?
Was this move a :doh::( ,
or was it a :thumb: :D?


I think, (c) - :thumb::congrats:

...art

:lurk:

[Rennie Heuer]

I'm liking it!

[Robert Schaubhut]

Hi :wave: and Thank you Vaughn, Brent, Art and Rennie,
I appreciate your input.
Here is the finished piece. "Just the way uh huh uh huh we like it":rofl:.

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Decided to use my old stand by, feet, rather than hanging it. Hope you have enjoyed the process.

Found out after delivery:thumb: corners seem to be the same color as the upholstery on the church pews!:eek: Divine intervention occurs even for the unsuspecting I believe.:D
Shaz :)

[allen levine]

ya gotta really like that spalted pecan.the project came out perfect, not that Id expect anything less from you.

[Rennie Heuer]

Shaz, you nailed it! Stunning.

[Robert Schaubhut]

Hi Allen :wave:,
Thanks, but let me digress, just having visited your thread on the rocker and the adirondack chair, I can say it was very pleasing to see your work. It has been a while since I have been out visiting but I saw your post and found such a pleasant surprise. Good work Allen :thumb:, then over to Vaughn's honey locust hollow form! That is a fine piece of round wood!
We have some very fine artisans here sharing...So much to learn... so little time.
Shaz :)

[Brent Dowell]

Awesome job. That really works well together.! :thumb:

[allen levine]

I appreciate a compliment from you, as I do from so many of the fine woodworkers on this site.

[Robert Schaubhut]

Shaz, you nailed it! Stunning.
Hi Rennie :wave:,
Thanks, was hoping you would like it!
Shaz :)

Awesome job. That really works well together.! :thumb:
Hi Brent :wave:,
Thank you for the kind words, glad you like it.
Shaz :)

[Norman Hitt]

You Done GOOOOOOOD, Shaz.:thumb: I like the stand too, much better than hanging would have been I think.

[Stuart Ablett]

Shaz, that is really beautiful :clap:

[Robert Schaubhut]

You Done GOOOOOOOD, Shaz.:thumb: I like the stand too, much better than hanging would have been I think.

Hi Norman :wave:,
Thank you :D, I'm glad you like it.
Shaz :)
Shaz, that is really beautiful :clap:

Hi Stu :wave:,
Thanks Stu. I appreciate your input, and the constant service you offer here.
Shaz :)

[larry merlau]

even witout my help you dun good:):thumb: the tinting definatly helped the over all look.. that pecan is pretty stuff,, its hard too isnt it? the trim piece you applied later did that cover up the ply wood neatly then.. or was the posts still protruding from the back???

[Al killian]

Looks really good.

[Robert Schaubhut]

even witout my help you dun good:):thumb: the tinting definatly helped the over all look.. that pecan is pretty stuff,, its hard too isnt it? the trim piece you applied later did that cover up the ply wood neatly then.. or was the posts still protruding from the back???
Thank you Larry :wave:,
I called and I called but when you didn't answer, I had to push on. Glad you liked it. Oh by the way, I do intend to call some evening!:D
Collect?:doh::rofl:. No:rofl:, on my cell phone........:thumb:

The Pecan is hard even in this spalted state, and as far as the trim pieces, they just covered the plywood edge (flush to the back)and a bit of the solid stock corners and connecting strips. Good question!.... To cover the posts and the plywood back I would have added a cloth back, stapled on, covering the whole back, protruding posts (about 5/8" beyond the back of the plywood) and the plywood too.
Looks really good.
Thanks Al :wave:. Ideas for the future, that's all. May be of use to someone here.:dunno:
Shaz :)

[Vaughn McMillan]

The end result came out looking great, Shaz. :thumb: You could do this stuff for a living. :D

[tod evans]

cool frame shaz, nice job on the toning!

[Robert Schaubhut]

cool frame shaz, nice job on the toning!
Thanks Tod :wave:,
It worked out well without completely losing the grain of the mahogany. That, as you well know is the balance. When to stop with the color:huh:. :rolleyes:
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Shaz :)