A home theater [Archive] - Family Woodworking

Robert Schaubhut

12-16-2007, 03:17 PM

Looks like a fun project! Are the panels on the sides and bottom speakers? I'm looking forward to vicariously helping you!:laugh2:
Thanks Ed :wave:, welcome aboard. Well, partner :D, this is what we've got...
15317

As you can see there is a center channel speaker in the center under the screen. It will be behind a clip on panel.There will be a door to the left and to the right of that and then a short column which we have had approved and finished the roughcut of the parts.
15318
15319.
Then moving outward we have two more doors and another column, then a small strip about 1 1/2" wide and then a full height cabinet in which the left and right channel speakers will be housed ( on the bottom ) with storage on the top.
Finally:doh: the farthest cabinets from center which will finish off the remaining space to the wall, storage above and below. Decorator asked me to cover all the doors and panels across the wall with acoustical cloth. Total -15 inset cloth covered panels:eek:. But but but ! :doh:
Shaz :)

joe blankshain

12-16-2007, 11:44 PM

That is some project Shaz!! Keep us advised on your progress, please.

Robert Schaubhut

12-17-2007, 01:02 AM

That is some project Shaz!! Keep us advised on your progress, please.
Hi Joe :wave:,
I will try to but I am unable to keep up with Marty's endurance both on the job and on the computer updates. Bear with me.:)
Fortunately the decorators were okay with my using the same molding head for the columns and the base.
15325
Since the front is rounded at about a 56' radius I needed to bevel the plinth and the column at 5 degrees + or -. Here is a test on the columns.
15326 15329
And then when satisfied with the practice piece ( when doing this kind of stuff, make sure you have enough stock extra of the exact same dimension to test each phase to completion, as it occurs), it's time to run the real pieces through.
1532715328
I knew my height as I have already constructed the boxes across the bottom of the screen, and I have a story pole for that height. The width and thickness of the columns and plinth were determinded using a story board of two laid out 36"x 8' pieces of plywood, upon which I marked the exact size of the lower cabinet's footprint.

Rennie Heuer

12-17-2007, 11:24 AM

Shaz,

The scope and quality of your work never cease to amaze me.

Robert Schaubhut

12-18-2007, 12:40 AM

Shaz,

The scope and quality of your work never cease to amaze me.
Hi Rennie :wave:,
Thanks so much! Given the time, you too can be doing this same kind of thing.
Shaz :)
Now where was I :huh:???
Oh yes, rather than strike the 56' radius, I just took a 16' 5/16"x 3/4" stick and bent it to the given measurements, traced the shape, on 1/8" birch and made a pattern on 1- 8' piece to be flipped over and reproduced for my length. I find it more accurate to create half a pattern, then create the whole pattern from that 1/2. It ends up being more symmetrical. Since I have a flat wall I laid out the cabinet widths as usual and then add the curve front were it was going to be on the footprint. I cut my walls to the correct angles in the front and and then added curved horizontal spacers in the front to attach my molding to and to maintain the correct size boxes. These spacers are all patterned off the the original layout.

Greg Cook

12-18-2007, 01:06 AM

Starting to come together...bit by bit... This is exciting!

Oh, BTW.... Are those some bamboo strips I spy in the back in pic #2? :huh:

Robert Schaubhut

12-18-2007, 01:37 AM

Oh, BTW.... Are those some bamboo strips I spy in the back in pic #2? :huh:
Hi Greg :wave:,
Thanks :D....
Matter of fact they are. They are left overs from a job I did at a high dollar restaurant called Surfers Paradise. That was a story or two to be told. Waterfalls coming through on site fabricated stone look alike faces, 26' high banyon tree, a one piece canvas about 20'x 50' already painted , Hawaiian sunset, then rolled on a wall as one sheet of wallpaper,:eek: hawaiian trellis with flowers and 2 thatched roof huts in side the place, with bamboo all around. It was like a small scale Las Vegas build out, or so I would guess.
The bamboo came cut in half round or full stalk.
You have a keen eye! Greg,,,,,
"Are you an Assassin?" :rofl:............movie line from seinfeld :rolleyes:
Shaz:)

Chris Mire

12-18-2007, 01:38 AM

looking good so far, i enjoy seeing others methods of how they work. you can always learn something new.

shaz, what does the sort of long note say on the bandsaw?

chris

Robert Schaubhut

12-18-2007, 02:42 AM

looking good so far, i enjoy seeing others methods of how they work. you can always learn something new.

shaz, what does the sort of long note say on the bandsaw?

chris
Hi Chris :wave:
Thanks Chris.
My take is the same on seeing other methods of work. I have learned so much from others. I think my first eye opener was with Fine Woodworking Magazine back in the late 70's or early 80's, "methods of work" and "Tools and tips" as I recall.
The note on the bandsaw is the jobs list, put off till after Christmas, but it seems the best place to reminded me there is work after the theater for repeat clients I wish not offend by forgetting.
Thanks for checking in:).
Shaz

Ed Nelson

12-18-2007, 03:32 AM

Looking good Shaz! 54' radius huh? I can't understand why you didn't use a trammel!:rofl:

Robert Schaubhut

12-18-2007, 12:30 PM

Under the screen, How many boxes do you think I chose to make and where do you think it would be good to join them up? Mind you these go on the third floor and have to get primed plus one coat on before they go up so I have to be able to break them down and reassemble. They will be complete just needing to be attached to each other and the wall, remember we want as few joints as possible, in the least visible places, and boxes as large as we can carry.
15414
Today there are a few structural pieces to put in then starting to cut 2 5/16" for stile and rails. The doors will have a 1/4" bead run around the inside edge of the stiles. How would you do that?
Shaz :)
PS, I have a plan :eek:..................... :rofl:

Ed Nelson

12-18-2007, 01:08 PM

Under the screen, How many boxes do you think I chose to make and where do you think it would be good to join them up? I would think the most logical place to break the cabinets is behind the columns, which would leave you three sections. Mind you these go on the third floor and have to get primed plus one coat on before they go up so I have to be able to break them down and reassemble. They will be complete just needing to be attached to each other and the wall, remember we want as few joints as possible, in the least visible places, and boxes as large as we can carry.
15414
Today there are a few structural pieces to put in then starting to cut 2 5/16" for stile and rails. The doors will have a 1/4" bead run around the inside edge of the stiles. How would you do that? Depends. Are the rails and stiles mitered If so use a beading bit in the router. Make stopped router cut if they are not mitered and finish with a scratch stock or chisels.
Shaz :)
PS, I have a plan :eek:..................... :rofl:
So, what's your plan???:huh:

Thanks for the ride Shaz, I'm enjoying it so far!

Chris Mire

12-18-2007, 10:51 PM

shaz,

as for the # of boxes, right off i would think three, if i can read the dim right the mid section is 6' approx, and the sides are 5' approx, so the optimal choice would be to hide the seams behind the smaller columns, but if i know you then i'll be surprised at the way you were able to make the boxes smaller and still make it look good.

as for the bead on the door, if i understand what you mean, then you are saying you'd have a bead similiar to the ones on the sides of the smaller columns on the inside of the door. 3 ways that i know to accomplish this.

1. make the rails and stile and run the bead on the edge. miter the joints and make the doors like picture frame. in my opinion probably the toughest way to get it done and have a tight strong joint.

2. make the doors like regular rail and stile paneled doors, and make a separate bead to be mitered and attached with glue and pins.

3. run the bead on the rails and stiles like #1 but run the pieces like regular rail and stiles, then miter the bead section on the rails where it meets the stiles, then use a 45 degree chamfer bit with no bearing to route the bead off the section of the stile that mates with the rail. this is similiar to what i see done on some exterior doors.

hope half of that made some sense.

ok, so when do we get to hear how many cabs and how you're gonna do the doors??? huh huh huh

chris

Ed Nelson

12-18-2007, 11:07 PM

ok, so when do we get to hear how many cabs and how you're gonna do the doors??? huh huh huh

chris

Yea Shaz, How'd we score on the test???

Vaughn McMillan

12-19-2007, 12:01 AM

I've been quietly lurking on this thread, but figured it was about time to say it's looking good, Shaz. I'm guessing this is not going into a mobile home? :p

:lurk:

Robert Schaubhut

12-19-2007, 02:03 AM

Looking good Shaz! 54' radius huh? I can't understand why you didn't use a trammel!:rofl: Hi Ed:wave:,
The cars in front of my shop kept running over my pencil! :rolleyes::rofl: And as far as the boxes I made 5, joined them up to make 3 and the joint you are correct, the joint is behind the columns or actually right at the inner ( nearer the center of the piece) edge.:thumb:.. S

shaz,

as for the # of boxes, right off i would think three, (Hi Chris:wave:, Actually I made 5 ) if i can read the dim right the mid section is 6' approx (yes, 5' 9 1/2" ), and the sides are 5' approx ( actually only about 34 1/2" , so the optimal choice would be to hide the seams behind the smaller columns, ( you are absolutely correct on this matter :thumb: ) but if i know you then i'll be surprised at the way you were able to make the boxes smaller and still make it look good. ( Thanks! .. S)

as for the bead on the door, if i understand what you mean, then you are saying you'd have a bead similiar to the ones on the sides of the smaller columns on the inside of the door. ( yes, only the bead on the small columns are 3/4" diameter and the one on the door is only 1/4" diameter) 3 ways that i know to accomplish this.

1. make the rails and stile and run the bead on the edge. miter the joints and make the doors like picture frame. in my opinion probably the toughest way to get it done and have a tight strong joint. (This is a possibility I have used at times in the past)

2. make the doors like regular rail and stile paneled doors, and make a separate bead to be mitered and attached with glue and pins. ( This is also an option that would work)

3. run the bead on the rails and stiles like #1 but run the pieces like regular rail and stiles, then miter the bead section on the rails where it meets the stiles, ( I am with you to this point!) then use a 45 degree chamfer bit with no bearing to route the bead off the section of the stile that mates with the rail. this is similiar to what i see done on some exterior doors. ( you do express more than one way to do this and that I think is so important. It is that creative mind that takes you exciting places. One problem with the door plan you and Ed offer is shown in this sample I showed the client. There is more to the door than first imagined:eek:)
15425

hope half of that made some sense.

ok, so when do we get to hear how many cabs and how you're gonna do the doors??? huh huh huh

chris

Yea Shaz, How'd we score on the test???

I've been quietly lurking on this thread, but figured it was about time to say it's looking good, Shaz. I'm guessing this is not going into a mobile home? :p ( Always appreciate your input Vaughn, never a dull moment!:D)

:lurk:
Okay Ed and Chris, Test scores are in:eek: !!!!!!
You both said 3, considering it not to be a well stated question you both get 100! I actually built 5 as seen in this rendition. The blue lines seperate the cabinets I built and the red lines show where they are to be connected at the final destination.
15426
Hopefully you can see the place where the red and blue lines are, this is the joint where I have used 1 1/2" machine bolts with washers into a "Lock nut?" so I can break it down and realign on site. The single blue lines nearer the center were cabinets screwed together with 1 1/4" deerwood screws(:thumb:) and intended to stay together from now on.
So in reality you were both right with the number and the joint position.
Now about those doors?:rolleyes:
Shaz :)

Chris Mire

12-19-2007, 03:05 AM

thanks shaz....

hmmm, that door sample creates more of a problem. i guess the best way to answer your question is to build them the way you built the sample :p

hanging out waiting to learn something new..:D

chris

ps. that sample looks great, it gives a better representation of what is to come!!

Robert Schaubhut

12-19-2007, 12:01 PM

Speaking of samples, here are the samples for the frieze.
15439

15440

15441
Which one if any do you like and which one do you think the client chose?

Ed Nelson

12-19-2007, 12:26 PM

I like the second one with the crown molding! Gives a real interesting look. Don't know what the clients chose without knowing their tastes, but that's the one I'd choose.

Chris Mire

12-19-2007, 04:22 PM

i personally think the first one fits the style of the piece so far.

they all look nice though, very creative use of moulding there shaz

Robert Schaubhut

12-20-2007, 12:48 AM

When I do samples I do them so that I like them, that way whatever they choose I am happy with it.
They did choose the first photo. :rolleyes:
Today, ( job # 1) other than cutting a shelf, banding it with screen mold to match existing, lacquer primer and an alkyd top coat,... ( job #2 )building a box for a remote receiver and cable box, with holes for electrical outlets to be installed tomorrow, ( job #3, the theater) then starting the trim and prep work, s4s the stiles and rails for the theater doors and figuring the frieze detail to span about 156" unsupported with an 18" soffet, worked out okay. I had help, Ed came in.( Not Ed Nelson, he is my silent partner, well not really silent:rolleyes::rofl: my vicarious partner!:D:rofl:)
Since we have a curve front, with all walls perpendicular to the back, all the doors would be hung with a 3 to 5 degree angle. Thinking it best to add wedges, I did that very thing.
On the very end of this cabinet the base of the next cabinet needs a place to die. Here I took time to cut a slot in the edge of the
column and the plinth so that the kill board ( for lack of a better term) could slide in behind and be wide enough to catch the return from the next cabinet. Make sense

Robert Schaubhut

12-21-2007, 12:09 PM

In one of these photos you can see the hexhead 1 1/2" bolt that will allow us to disassemble at that wall. There are others, just hidden.
15503

This pic shows the end cabinet on the left. See the kill block in position, finishing off the left side of the cabinet and allowing an easy return for the next cabinet's base to return into the kill block. Reason being the next cabinet is out about 30" and the kill block is at 24"
15502
Here is a photo of the front with our progress so far. See the facets where the doors will fit?
15504

Ed Nelson

12-21-2007, 12:40 PM

Looks good Shaz! You move a lot quicker than I do on these big projects!

Mike Henderson

12-21-2007, 09:06 PM

Wow - that's a major project. You're really moving along on that, also, but I guess that's the difference between a professional like you and a hobbyist like me. It'd take me a year to build that.

Looking good!!

Mike

Vaughn McMillan

12-21-2007, 09:38 PM

:lurk:

I really enjoy watching someone who knows what they're doing.

Oh...and I would have picked frieze #1, too.

Robert Schaubhut

12-22-2007, 12:07 AM

Looks good Shaz! You move a lot quicker than I do on these big projects!
Hi Ed :wave:,
That is a compliment, thank you. I have made so many mistakes over the years and tried to remember them as I hate it when they happen, kinda feel like somebody or some thing got the best of you.:o ...S

Wow - that's a major project. You're really moving along on that, also, but I guess that's the difference between a professional like you and a hobbyist like me. It'd take me a year to build that.
Hi Mike :wave:,
It is a large project but consider working 8-9-10 hours a day and 4-5-6 on Saturday. Problem solving is a challenge for drive time or when you can't sleep. It may seem big but "divide and conquer" and each part is not so bad.:rolleyes:..It is the kind of job you could do if you decided to. I believe that, in less than a year!:D ...S
Looking good!!

Mike

:lurk:

I really enjoy watching someone who knows what they're doing.
Hi Vaughn,
Thanks for your input and your vote of confidence. I sometimes seems that without input like this that I am writing a rather shoddy tutorial to an uninterested mass. :dunno:...Shaz

Oh...and I would have picked frieze #1, too.
I need to download some photos using pixresizer ( thanks Vaughn )
and I will be back.
S

Robert Schaubhut

12-22-2007, 12:47 AM

Today, Friday was a day to work on loose ends. every so often you need to go in and tighten up some of the little details that don't show much. There are somethings that were left in the heat of cutting and building that needed worked out, like the supports for the screen, a cabinet back or two, the actual decktop plan and some of the parts for the doors. It will be slow for the next few days as a gift or two need finished up.
Here Ed is building the support for the screen.
15522
They were needed as the screen is 67" tall and the surround has to be all painted before the screen goes into its final resting place. 3" at the top and 3" at the bottom of the screen are hidden therefore, since the cabinets will be set with the frieze in place and a 6" void at the back of the soffit ( to accept the 5 1/2'' deep screen, I needed to figure out a way to get the screen in behind the cabinet and the soffit. Thus it becomes an "insert into hole A straighten, bench press through holes A, C and E, then while hoisted slide supports into position.:doh: ( hate things when they are not a one man job!:rofl::rofl:)
Shaz:)
If you don't understand and want to, let me know.

Chris Mire

12-22-2007, 03:06 AM

hey shaz, i actually wondered earlier what the big notches were in the backs of the partitions, now i think i understand a little better.

this is going to be a nice piece.

question. in this home, is it new construction? i ask because i wonder why the designer wouldn't get the cabinet maker who did the kitchen and bath cabinets to do this as well. although, in the end, i am glad you got the job :D

chris

Robert Schaubhut

12-22-2007, 01:22 PM

hey shaz, i actually wondered earlier what the big notches were in the backs of the partitions, now i think i understand a little better.
( Hi Chris :wave:,
I needed a large notch like that as the frieze is out away from the wall about 24" so the screen has to be inserted diagonally, bottom first. The deck top will be a 4 piece unit. #1 will be the front piece, curved to match the front profile on the front edge yet flat on it's back side. It will run the full length. #2 and 3 are small short pieces that will fill the space under the fixed side mounted pillars which will help determine the open width for the screen. Clear as mud? The 4th piece will be a drop in once the screen is set in place....S Hopefully it will become clear as we progress. :D)

this is going to be a nice piece.

question. in this home, is it new construction? ( This was a spec home that has been done over by the decorator, once purchased by the client as their new home. ) i ask because i wonder why the designer wouldn't get the cabinet maker who did the kitchen and bath cabinets to do this as well. although, in the end, i am glad you got the job :D ( Thank you Chris, I too am happy with this job.)

chris

Well Chris, you raise an interesting question, Why not let the already there cabinet makers, who were doing the kitchens, vanities, and closet built-ins do the theater, same question if it were an entertainment center?

I can only give you the feed back I have gotten from the gentleman who sells the audio visual equipment and does the pre wiring, programming and the works. "They just don't realize that it comes down to 1/8". Most of the kitchen/ bathroom guys just think it is another set of boxes, which is basically true.

In the end it is the little things like holes for wiring holes, and heat, access to the wiring and plugs, stops for short shelves in deep cabinets ( so that pushing in a dvd does not push the component and the shelf off the adjustable clips), determining the right sizes for needed cavities for speakers ( considering that they get doors+ another inner frame wrapped with grillle cloth which decreases the open space in the door for the drivers to play through) etc.
I think alot of guys look at it like it is a kitchen with box box 24" diswasher box, sink box box corner fill return box box box. Screw that together and give me the money:D:rofl:. OH, 36" for the refridgerator! :thumb:.
To do it right, I am like "Columbo" annoying people with question after question about driver sizes, heat issues, age and health related problems ( inconsiderate to plan a dvd player chest high if the person has a shoulder problem or a vhs too low if they are getting older) , storage needs, and their desire for photographs and nic nacs. I really believe this is a niche market. just my opinion, of course. ...("pearls" :) )...:rofl:
Shaz:)

joe blankshain

12-22-2007, 01:26 PM

Shaz,

You continue to educate and amaze. The work you are doing is first class and I like frieze #1 as well.

Robert Schaubhut

12-22-2007, 01:37 PM

Shaz,

You continue to educate and amaze. The work you are doing is first class and I like frieze #1 as well.
Hi Joe:wave:,
Thank you for your encouragement. Frieze #1...Good Choice!
Shaz:)

Niki Avrahami

12-22-2007, 02:10 PM

I'm watching and....learning...

For me, it looks like something from the "Fantasy world"...:o

Thanks for taking the time to post

Regards
niki

Ed Nelson

12-22-2007, 07:36 PM

Well Chris, you raise an interesting question, Why not let the already there cabinet makers, who were doing the kitchens, vanities, and closet built-ins do the theater, same question if it were an entertainment center?

I can only give you the feed back I have gotten from the gentleman who sells the audio visual equipment and does the pre wiring, programming and the works. "They just don't realize that it comes down to 1/8". Most of the kitchen/ bathroom guys just think it is another set of boxes, which is basically true.

In the end it is the little things like holes for wiring holes, and heat, access to the wiring and plugs, stops for short shelves in deep cabinets ( so that pushing in a dvd does not push the component and the shelf off the adjustable clips), determining the right sizes for needed cavities for speakers ( considering that they get doors+ another inner frame wrapped with grillle cloth which decreases the open space in the door for the drivers to play through) etc.
I think alot of guys look at it like it is a kitchen with box box 24" diswasher box, sink box box corner fill return box box box. Screw that together and give me the money:D:rofl:. OH, 36" for the refridgerator! :thumb:.
To do it right, I am like "Columbo" annoying people with question after question about driver sizes, heat issues, age and health related problems ( inconsiderate to plan a dvd player chest high if the person has a shoulder problem or a vhs too low if they are getting older) , storage needs, and their desire for photographs and nic nacs. I really believe this is a niche market. just my opinion, of course. ...("pearls" :) )...:rofl:
Shaz:)

I'm glad Chris asked the question and really like the response! Thanks. It really is the details that make the difference between a good piece of work and a great piece of work! I'm still learning the questions to ask!:o

Robert Schaubhut

12-22-2007, 11:57 PM

I'm watching and....learning...

For me, it looks like something from the "Fantasy world"...:o

Thanks for taking the time to post

Regards
niki
Hi Niki :wave:,
Thanks for letting me know you are out there! Sonetimes we just don't know if anyone cares:dunno: what we are sharing. Wish the lurkers knew how encouraging just the words of "Thanks for typing" or whatever :dunno: , means to the person writing the post!
Oh, by the way Niki, working on these kind of jobs for people who can afford stuff like this is like Fantasy World to me too! I can't afford this stuff in my house, so I am always thankful when I can do projects for others I can't do for myself. I especially like working for nice people. These folks are, as far as I have noticed, really very nice, polite and considerate.
Wishing you well,
Shaz:)

Chris Mire

12-23-2007, 01:09 AM

Robert Schaubhut

12-23-2007, 01:10 AM

I'm glad Chris asked the question and really like the response! Thanks. It really is the details that make the difference between a good piece of work and a great piece of work! I'm still learning the questions to ask!:o
Hi Ed :wave:, Thank you for your valuable input.
By the time this theater is complete I will have learned how to build it.:D

Learning the right questions to ask is very important. Whether you are asking me, asking the client, or asking your spouse!:eek: Most men I know are starting at square one with what to ask.:huh:
You are on the right trail Ed!
Shaz:)

Robert Schaubhut

12-23-2007, 01:39 AM

well shaz i must agree with your reply.

it is true most cabinet guys would take that approach. i try to be a little more sensitive to my customers needs, but some are not willing to pay for it. if you wanna nickel and dime me, then i can only provide so much assistance before i hurt my bottom line. ( Good for you Chris! it is important you know where to draw the line with clients or potential ones. A few years ago I realized that if I reduce my price I am the only one who loses. My quality remains the same, the materials are the same as those are the ones I think are right to do the job. The time isn't less and the client doesn't have me over weekly friendship and bar-b-que. So what did I get for cutting my price? :dunno: Less money and a good night sleep?:rolleyes: Shaz)
i actually want to do the same type of face plate for my brother's ent center...( let me know if I can be of assistance )
once again, things are looking good, thansk for the well thought out and extensive explanations of your work and the processes that take you through it. You are welcome...S :wave:

hats off to you for going the extra mile
chris
Thanks Chris, It is the response from you and the others that makes me feel I am not writing notes on a desert island.:D
Shaz :)

Lee Clock

12-26-2007, 05:56 PM

Robert,
Thanks for posting this thread! Just letting you know I'm following every word and picture!

Lee

Robert Schaubhut

12-26-2007, 10:30 PM

Hi Lee :wave:,
Thanks for sharing your interest.
I appreciate your words.
Shaz:)
My plan is to build all the things that surround the screen physically so that I can assemble it and know the screen will work and the knock down procedure will go smoothly. I will be starting on the frieze and the tall speaker/storage/columns cabinets directly. I also need do the vertical stair step pillars that sit on the deck top and the doors for the cabinets below the screen.
Here is a funky rendition of how I intend to get the screen in place.
15675
The 3/4" deck top is two pieces. The front piece will be fixed and have the curve of the cabinet overhanging the doors however the back of that very piece will be straight. The piece that goes on behind it will go on after the screen is set and secure. It will be flush to the same height as the front part of the deck top but will serve to close the opening in the top, rear of the cabinets that I was needed to insert the screen on the diagonal.

Robert Schaubhut

12-28-2007, 01:04 AM

The 3/4" deck top is two pieces. The front piece will be fixed and have the curve of the cabinet overhanging the doors however the back of that very piece will be straight. The piece that goes on behind it will go on after the screen is set and secure. It will be flush to the same height as the front part of the deck top but will serve to close the opening in the top, rear of the cabinets that I was needed to insert the screen on the diagonal.
Here is a pic of the deck top front piece. It needed joined in the middle so I ran a chalk line on the cabinets, screwed down some blocks on that chalk line, to keep it straight. then screwed down the deck top and handsawed a common kerf in the existing crack to assure me of a tight fit. 15713It has the 1/2 round poplar banding on it.
You can see it is joined in the center with corregated fasteners, front faced with the poplar band and then I added a support under the joint and spanning the two pieces, cut to seat the deck top into the existing underlayer.15714

Ed Nelson

12-28-2007, 01:14 PM

handsawed a common kerf in the existing crack to assure me of a tight fit.

That's a trick I'd forgotten! Thanks for reminding me. I have never had much luck using those corrugated fasteners either. The project is looking good!

Robert Schaubhut

12-29-2007, 01:03 AM

I have never had much luck using those corrugated fasteners either. The project is looking good!
Hi Ed :wave:,
That kerf sawing is sometimes the only way to get a straight joint, and it is a nice to know you are already familiar with it. There have been times I would handsaw the crack while the boards were tight, then when I cut through, I would again snug up the boards and re cut. Sometimes with a wide gap I have cut up to 7 times to get the boards lined up. Not 7 times due to error but tighten the joint in alignment and touching points, saw through, squeeze joint together the thickness of the kerf, and recut keeping the boards in alignment. When cut through, squeeze boards together again the thickness of the kerf you just made and resaw...ETC. ETC. to fit.
Hey Ed... Have you ever used a pneumatic corregated fastener?:eek:
The one I have is a real power driver, just slams the 5/8" staples into the lumber and squeezes the crack too. My most ferocious hand held nailgun type thing. Oh and by the way...Great lookin Christmas pooch!:D Surprised Santa didn't take him back UP the chimney.:eek: :rolleyes:...S
Okay, since the holiday fog has not cleared from my mind yet full blown production has not yet returned however lets look at doors.
15777
This is what we have to make as that is what they liked.
It is a basic bead on the interior edge of the door stiles and rails ( then throw the 1/4 round into the corner with bead :eek: ). Center will be a 1/2" baltic birch inset panel covered with acoustical grille cloth. First...Every thing has to be the same thickness ( stiles,rails and 1/4 round corner). The radius of the 1/4 round will be about 3".
How do we do that, keeping in mind that we need have it join up with the stiles and rails? :huh: Since there is such a great response to "Movie lines" I guess I should not answer this just yet.:D " I am not looking for an answer as I have already done what I needed to do, it is my intent to have those curious stimulated by the thought of what THEY would do given the real life situation. There are options. You don't need respond but once I throw out a solution your problem solving stimulation may be satisfied thus ending what may have been some rocket building revelation.:thumb:
I will try to post my solution to this situation tomorrow.

Vaughn McMillan

12-29-2007, 03:48 AM

Just so you know, I'm very much enjoying this thread, Shaz. Not saying much...I tend to learn more when I'm being quiet. ;)

Chris Mire

12-29-2007, 01:21 PM

shaz,

if i know myself as well as i think i do, i would probably find the hardest, slowest and least accurate way to do this. so i'll keep my ideas to myself.

patiently waiting to find out how it should be done!! ;)

ps. i showed my brother some of the pics on your website, specifically the ent centers where the tv is framed extra tight like a picture frame. he loved it, so i may be calling on your expertise in that area later down the road.

chris

Robert Schaubhut

12-30-2007, 12:26 AM

Just so you know, I'm very much enjoying this thread, Shaz. Not saying much...I tend to learn more when I'm being quiet. ;)
Thanks Vaughn:wave:,
Even just a word is reassuring, I would imagine in most threads.

shaz,

if i know myself as well as i think i do, i would probably find the hardest, slowest and least accurate way to do this. so i'll keep my ideas to myself.

patiently waiting to find out how it should be done!! ;)
Thanks Chris :wave:,
You give me too much credit. I will show you what I figured out I had to do to get it done and you can put it into your memory bank. I think retention of tools and tips, tricks of the trade, methods of work etc. and creation of jigs to do precise and repetitive work is essential....S

ps. i may be calling on your expertise later down the road. ( Feel free to do so, will be glad to help any way possible....S)

chris
For me the corner was the determining factor as to how to build the doors.

How do we get a bead on the curved edge of a 1/4 round corner fill and still be able to inset a panel from the back side? I figured since the radius is about 3" it will be rather tight trying to mold the little pieces so I decided to make circles and see if that would work. First I surfaced all the poplar I would need (plus some) for the stiles, rails and corner fillers. Fortunately I got some nice 16' pieces 8" and 10" wide + or - 1/2" S2S straight line ripped. I gently surfaced them to be sure they were the same size.

I then pulled out some 1/2" medex( exterior sign grade MDF) to make a circle pattern about 6 1/2" d. The medex was about 13" wide. I will be using a mortising bit, 3" long, 1/2" cutter with a 1/2" shank in my router. I drilled a tiny hole 3 1/4" from the cutting edge of the router bit, through the wooden extended plate I have on this router. I then tapped a nail through from the underside and flipped the router over in order to mark the correct hole on the top side as I have a few holes in the plate already and don't want to get this hole confused.15788 I then pulled the nail out from the bottom and reinserted it from the top of the plate.
This photo is a rigging of the router to work for me.15789
Next we have a photo of the setting on the router plate, that being the one we will use to cut a hole into which the circles will fit. I measured that hole to be drilled 3 1/4" from the far side of the cutting bit as that is the edge that will be determining our hole size. 15790
We will be making several circles at 6 1/2"s and several holes in 1/2" medex that are 6 1/2" because some will most likely experience damage during use and we need to have one perfect at all times if for no other reason than to make a new pattern.
It is my intent to make full circles that I can mold as safely as possible.
I will cut the holes in the mdf first as that is to be my retaining jig for the circles. I will then cut circles to fit. These circles I will use as templates to then form exact duplicate circles out of some of the wide poplar I have surfaced.
Shaz :)

Robert Schaubhut

12-30-2007, 03:42 PM

Making the circles or the holes is a good trick to have in your mental tool box.

#1 Make a wooden (I use 3/4" ply as I can attach extensions onto that ply) rectangle that is about 20" long and wide enough to mount your router to. (from this time on we will call this wooden piece the Plate).

#2 Put a mortising bit in your router. A 3 "X 1/2" shank with a 1/2" d cutter is what I use in this plunge router.15830

#3 Attach your router to the ( plate) rectangular 3/4 board at one end.
15831

Wear your safety glasses

#4 Make sure the router is secure and the bit is in tight, now plunge the 1/2'' bit down through the ( plate ) 3/4" plywood that the router is attached to.

#5 With the router turned off, adjust the bit ( depth ) almost flush with the borrom of the plate, so it is just sticking out through the bottom of the plate about 1/8".

If you want to cut a 15" hole;

#6 lay the router and plate on their side with the router on the right and the majority of the plate to the left.

#7 Using a measuring device ( I use a Lufkin X46 6' Red End in these photos) measure, starting at the right side of the cutting bit, moving to the left 7 1/2" and make a mark. ( This will be the distance of half of a 15" hole ).
15832

#7a. Take a # 6 (2") bright finish nail and cut off the head with your side cutters or what ever you use.

#8 Insert the headless nail into the chuck and drill/burn a hole through the 3/4" plate at the place marked ( 7 1/2 " ). Try your best to go straight through with your drilling. Don't force the nail just apply reasonable pressure.

#9 When drilling is complete retract the mortising bit so that the plate will sit flush on the table.

#10 Take a new, headed #6 bright finish nail and gently tap it into the pre drilled/burned hole in the plate, with the point headed toward the bottom of the plate.

#11 Get the piece you are intending to cut the hole into and consider how you can cut all the way through the piece without ruining something good supporting it. I usually elevate it on 3/4" sacrificial strips that stick out on the ends so I can secure the strips to my table with clamps or screws. If you use screws put none under the piece you are routing unless you are very sure of their placement and the routing path :rolleyes:.

#12 Secure the piece with screws out side the finished hole and if you don't intend to use the circle secure it with screws too,

#13 Determine the center and make a mark.

#14 With and awl or a nail make an indentation for a starting point.

#15 Lift the plate and tap the nail through the plate at the 7 1/2" mark so about 1" of the point is sticking out. ( this makes it easier to get the nail centered on the piece you want to cut out.)

#16 Set the nail into the indentation and tap it in securely but not all the way through the piece you will be cutting.

#17 Swivel the router around in a counterclock wise manner to see what obstacles may hinder your path.

#18 Turn on the router, allow it to get up to speed, then plunge down about 1/4'' secure to that depth and revolve the plate and router to cut the first pass.

#19 When completed with the first pass, plunge a bit deeper and secure at depth, revolve again.

#20 Take your time and repeat plunging until all the way through.

#21 Your results should leave you with a 15" hole and a 14" circle.
What ever the results are, mark the nail hole on your plate with the exact finished dimensions it cut ( measured after you are finished) so you have that number accurately recorded.

Shaz:)
Next ...The circle to fit the hole.

Robert Schaubhut

01-04-2008, 11:55 AM

Okay folks, lets have a go at that circle with a router.

#1 Get a #6 finish nail and cut the head off it.
http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16035&thumb=1&d=1199336319 (http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16035&d=1199336319)

#2 Take this headless nail and chuck it up in your drill.
http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16036&thumb=1&d=1199336319 (http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16036&d=1199336319)

#3 Measure, then mark the spot that will serve as the center point of your circle (the radius). I am measuring to 4 1/2" from that cutting edge of the router bit that will be cutting the circle rather than the other side of the bit that would be cutting the hole. In this case we are making a 9" circle.
http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16037&thumb=1&d=1199336319 (http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16037&d=1199336319)

#4 Drill the hole and insert a nail so as to be able to mark the drilled hole on the top side of the plate. I mention this for those who have more than a few holes drilled in the plate.
http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16038&thumb=1&d=1199336319 (http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16038&d=1199336319)

#5 Insert a nail in through the top side of the plate and put it's point into an indentation made in the center of a piece of 1/4" plywood.
http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16039&thumb=1&d=1199336319 (http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16039&d=1199336319)

The plywood needs be secured so as not to move. The strips which raise the plywood off the work surface need be secured too. Visual clarity can be seen in # 9.

#6 Start the cut and rotate counterclockwise. Be sure the nail is driven securely into the piece you are cutting. Try being aware of the twisting of the cords, the depth of cut and other things that may cause a problem. Be alert and aware of your surroundings.
http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16040&thumb=1&d=1199336319 (http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16040&d=1199336319)

#7 Continuing the cut, just a little bit deeper.
http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16041&thumb=1&d=1199336319 (http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16041&d=1199336319)

#8 Plunge deeper still.
http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16042&thumb=1&d=1199336319 (http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16042&d=1199336319)

#9 Here is a look at the finished circle, cut and still secured. Notice the center nail hole would be set into the center 3/4" plywood strip as well as the 1/4" circle. Notice the screws are set away from where the router bit path is. Here we have a 9" circle and a 10" hole.
http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16043&thumb=1&d=1199336319 (http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16043&d=1199336319)

#10 This is a photo of the 9" x 1/4" plywood circle fitting into a previously cut 9" hole.
http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16044&thumb=1&d=1199336319 (http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16044&d=1199336319)

So far so good?
Shaz :)
This post is redundant to the post in the thread "Making holes and circles" for a reason.

The idea of making holes and circles in and by themselves is an important tutorial worthy of mention, however for me it was necessary to bring them up in this thread, at this time.

Reason; I had to do the holes and circles in order to proceed with the making of the doors for the theater.
So far so good means that doing the holes and circles tutorial is not done in this thread as we need to reproduce multiple circles that will fit into the hole I have created.

"For what reason :huh: ? Pray tell! " ( Someone asked I hope :rolleyes:...):D:rofl:

To be concluded as I have garbage day and need rake up some leaves, go work out and then off to the shop. Wishing you all a great day.
Shaz

Ed Nelson

01-04-2008, 02:12 PM

If I remember correctly, the circles are for your corner blocks in the cabinet doors. How do you do the beads?

joe blankshain

01-04-2008, 03:36 PM

Another tutorial with a trailing question keeps inquiring minds at the edge of their seat. Nice work Shaz, keep it up.

Robert Schaubhut

01-05-2008, 12:31 AM

If I remember correctly, the circles are for your corner blocks in the cabinet doors. How do you do the beads?

Hi Ed :wave:,
You are correct. We have 9 doors with the same size blocks in the corners. I figured it would be easier to start with circles which are 4 times larger than a 1/4 round and 1/4 the work and probably 1/4 the danger :rolleyes:... Ahhh, the bead, stay with me on this.:D...S :)

Another tutorial with a trailing question keeps inquiring minds at the edge of their seat.

:D Nice work Shaz, keep it up.

Hi Joe :wave:,
Inquiring minds are creative and brilliant, at least when stimulated :rolleyes: ...and thanks for your encouragement! :D...

Okay, 9 doors = 36 corners :huh:...I choose 9 circles rather than 36 individual pieces!!!!! Better do several extra circles for R and D..

Since this is an important part of the package I needed to figure out how to do the bead.

I knew it had to be with the circle using a 1/4" bead, at least for the doors. So to start, I figured about 11 circles would allow me to experiment and still get to the required finish line of 36 corners.
Reproducing 11 circles exactly the same size was relatively important to me at this juncture. :D Actually necessary.

Ed often quotes a chef he worked with saying "perfect will be just fine". It works here too.:rofl:

Making exact duplicates from a pattern

First you need a perfect pattern. If it is not perfect then guess what?
Your results will mirror your less than perfect, funky imperfect pattern! At this point you have a choice. You can chose to do whatever is necessary to make your pattern exactly correct ( Bad News...actually you need at least 2 patterns as one needs be the master pattern from which you can make more useable patterns. Good news...you can make the second easily with the first pattern) or you can use the slightly imperfect pattern which probably sucks and get maybe 1000 or so reproductions which suck exactly the same. :dunno: :rofl: :rofl: Sorry but true.
However,there is more good news for the pattern that sucks. When reproduced enough and put together in a design even ugly shapes can take on an attractive flair.:rofl: This is also true!

#1 We have a perfect circle made with 1/4" plywood. Trace around it. Now trace another circle around it just a wee bit larger using the edge of the circle as your guide.
16134

#2 The circle...
16135

#3 Cut the circle on a saw making sure not to cut away the inside pencil line.
16136

#4 More pics rough cutting the circle on the bandsaw.
[16137
16138
16139

#5 This is the finished roughcut circle.
16140

I traced and cut 11 circles in this fashion. They were however traced onto 11" wide poplar. Earlier I had surfaced this poplar to about 3/4" strong along with all the poplar needed for the stiles and rails for these same doors.

#6 Here you see the router height adjustment being made to cut the 3/4" plywood while still allowing the roller bearing to contact the 1/4" pattern. (unplugged)

( A thicker pattern can be made from the perfect 1/4" piece. I start by making a thinner pattern as it is easier to smooth and correct than a thick one. Once the thin one is perfect the reproductions should be of equal quality.)

The router is shown in this photo upside down, unplugged. In this case I then turned the router over and held the router upright moving it around each circle rather than using a table with the router set into it. It can be done either way.
16141

#7 Here is the pattern and the copy.
16142

#8 This picture shows the circle fitting into the hole for which it was intended.:thumb:
16143

Okay, finally we are ready to push on with the making of the beaded 1/4 rounds.
My experimentation was at first mental. I have three 1/4" bead making options.
#1. a 2 wing cutter for the table saw.

#2. a molding head for the table saw that accepts 3 knives. For this I
can use a 3 bead cutter.

#3. a 1/4" bead cutter for the router.

Remember I do have straight runs of beaded molding and then there is the curved 1/4 rounds :eek: ! I guess the straight and the round should match up:dunno:.
Shaz:)
Now What? :huh:
What do you think?

Vaughn McMillan

01-05-2008, 04:05 AM

I'm not cabinetmaker enough to answer your last question Shaz, but I'll be tuned in for the answer. :lurk:

Robert Schaubhut

01-06-2008, 02:56 PM

I'm not cabinetmaker enough to answer your last question Shaz, but I'll be tuned in for the answer. :lurk:
Hi Vaughn :wave:,
Thanks for staying with this.
Your new avatar is so funny. You are so creative.

How about a tutorial on moving avatars? That would be great fun!

I have wondered how they happen.

Okay the doors...
These are the 3 options I have for cutting the doors.
16208

As mentioned before I have some long straight pieces I need to run and then there is the 1/4 corners. I decided to try the 2 wing cutter first. I know how well it works on the table saw for long runs and it has more width on the flat shoulder than the 3 bead cutter has.
16209

My concern was in making the curved bead on the corners. I made two hole patterns into which my full sized circles fit. Here is a photo of one hole I cut to use over the 2 wing cutter on the table saw.
16212

I aligned the curve of the hole pattern with the edge of the bead on the cutter head. Then it was necessary to set the cutting head for the depth of cut. I set it so that the full bead would be cut and remove about 1/16" from the circle face. Some concepts are difficult for me to verbalize clearly.:dunno: Ask!
16213
16214

Then I slid my TS fence up to just kiss the side of the hole pattern and locked the fence. I ran one pass of the hole pattern through the table saw.
I cut the underside of the hole pattern with the cutter so as not to have it uncut when I turned on the motor with the pattern clamped down.
I aligned the hole, clamped it down and turned on the motor. So far so good.

Ed Nelson

01-06-2008, 03:23 PM

Chris Mire

01-06-2008, 03:23 PM

shaz,

kinda late to admit it now, but your hole jig on the TS was one solution i had thought of, but my mind couldn't decide whether it would work or not.

how will the cutter cut the profile on the section of the circle contacting the fence, without ruining the section approaching the fence? picture the cutter running the bead, then the cutter having to come down, it just seems in my head that it would over cut the bead so to say. i really don't know how to explain what i mean. sorry

carry on good sir

waiting for woodworking enlightenment

chris

Robert Schaubhut

01-06-2008, 04:46 PM

I was thinking you could use one of these with your circle cutting jig.
http://www.woodcraft.com/images/family/web1383.jpg
but I don't think the bottom profile would match up. If you can use the same cutter on your moldiing head that cut the straight runs, as you showed, that would probably work the best.

Hi Ed :wave:, I thought you might be out there pondering some options. Your idea of using the circle jig is stimulating, thanks, just don't think it would serve me here. Thanks for the post. Reguarding the use of the same cutter head, those were my initial thoughts too. A note about my thinking is this...when something is not yet proven to work,even in the face of 99% certainty it will work, I am considering other options. :dunno:... S

shaz,

kinda late to admit it now, but your hole jig on the TS was one solution i had thought of, but my mind couldn't decide whether it would work or not.

Hi Chris :wave:,
You are thinking and questioning, next step is the experiment itself.:D...S

how will the cutter cut the profile on the section of the circle contacting the fence, without ruining the section approaching the fence? picture the cutter running the bead, then the cutter having to come down, it just seems in my head that it would over cut the bead so to say. i really don't know how to explain what i mean. sorry

Chris, you have a very good point and your thinking proves to be correct. It is difficult to put these concepts into words that make any sense. I have that problem. You have explained just fine:thumb:....S

carry on good sir

waiting for woodworking enlightenment

chris

As Ed mentioned, using the same cutter would be the ideal solution. Chris mentioned a problem he forsees with the 2 wing cutter, cutting a 1/4" bead on the outside of a 6 1/2" d circle.

I had my set up with the hole pattern set over the knife of the table saw just where I wanted it. The hole pattern is 1/2" thick and the circles are 3/4" thick. I turned on the table saw. All was fine.

I thought what happens now? I knew sooner or later I was going to put the circle in the hole:eek:...

What if it started spinning around like a 5 gallon bucket half full of grout, using a hugh paint stirring paddle with a two handed 1/2" drill that wouldn't turn off?:doh:Now that can tear you up with that wild bucket and the handle flailing around slamming your legs and water mixed grout flying out the top!:doh::doh::rofl: funny NOW! :rofl:

That's a story... but this circle drop was anticlimactic as I lowered the circle into the hole and due to the small amount being cut I had no problem or concern after having done one, well one small concern. I have dropped things on the top of spinning things in the past. Not good, so I try to be careful.

The problem with the profile was as Chris stated. The 2 wing cutter is about 6" in diameter.

When the bead cutting part comes up above the surface of the table saw high enough to cut the full bead, the actual distance of it's cutting from when it comes up through the table to when it goes down again is about ( I am guessing now) 1". This is the cutting at the top of the arc of the blade which occurs above the table surface.

Anyway, the profile although simulating a bead was not the best. The outter part of the bead was nice but the inside curved edge was out of round.

Ed Nelson

01-06-2008, 08:55 PM

I think I'd lean toward making a scratch stock with the cutter profile! You could even rig the drill press to spin the circle and present the scratch stock to it.

Robert Schaubhut

01-06-2008, 10:23 PM

I think I'd lean toward making a scratch stock with the cutter profile! You could even rig the drill press to spin the circle and present the scratch stock to it.

Hi Ed :wave:,
We are brainstorming here! :thumb:

That is an idea I had not considered, very stimulating. Scary thought though because it takes my mind to a very dangerous place!!!!!!!:eek::eek::eek: A place that could distort my woodworking for the rest of my days. I have visions of long term and serious consequences going any farther than the thought!:eek::eek::eek::eek: Don't make me go there!!!!!!!:eek::eek:
Signed,
Mr. Trembling

Chris Mire

01-07-2008, 02:29 AM

shaz,

the issue you encountered was exactly what i was afraid would happen.

but shaz, here is the biggest and probably best question I could ask you.

ok, ya ready for it.....

how in the world did you make the sample piece that you showed the customer and posted a pic of in this thread. surely whatever method you used then will work again. of course unless it was one that took a very long time or was very dangerous.

thanks for allowing us to tag along on your problem solving journey

chris

Robert Schaubhut

01-07-2008, 12:26 PM

Hi Ed :wave:,
We are brainstorming here! :thumb:

That is an idea I had not considered, very stimulating. Scary thought though because it takes my mind to a very dangerous place!!!!!!!:eek::eek::eek: A place that could distort my woodworking for the rest of my days. I have visions of long term and serious consequences going any farther than the thought!:eek::eek::eek::eek: Don't make me go there!!!!!!!:eek::eek:
Signed,
Mr. Trembling

My fears have been relieved!!!!!! The idea of using the drill press with the wood mounted in it mutated into the thought that if I turned the drill press on it's side and locked the height adjustment and used the 2 wing cutter to cut the profile it might work and thus my drill press solved the problem........but only as a LATHE!!!!!:eek: I was afraid of falling into the abyss...However I was able to convince myself that I would have been using a horizontal drill press. Fortunate for me! My fear and trembling have subsided! :rolleyes::rofl:
Shaz :):rofl:

shaz,

the issue you encountered was exactly what i was afraid would happen.

but shaz, here is the biggest and probably best question I could ask you.

ok, ya ready for it.....

how in the world did you make the sample piece that you showed the customer and posted a pic of in this thread. surely whatever method you used then will work again. of course unless it was one that took a very long time or was very dangerous.
Hi Chris :wave:,
First, Good thinking.
Second, I made the sample and when it worked for me I finished making all of the corner blocks at the same time as I was on a roll. The making of these parts was so out of sequence with the actual need for them that I felt it best to reinact the thought process and the building as I got to it in sequence. Forgive me if I have been deceptive, no malice intended.
Shaz:)

thanks for allowing us to tag along on your problem solving journey

chris

Today I intend to photograph a reinactment of the making of the corners. It has been long and drawn out so far, much like the thinking and the quest for the solution. Hopefully you will enjoy the process, the explanation and the pictures. It is an attempt to encourage you all to try different things, in different ways and think outside the box.
Let me give you a clue to my solution, :rolleyes: (considering Ed's idea of chucking up the circle in the drill press)

This wounded drill press has no power left, lying like a dead soldier, on his side. Adding some semblance of life to the prostrate giant, we can only turn the shaft by hand, it has no power it is dead. What use is it now?

Seperate it from it's catch. There is nevertheless a glimmer of hope as we try to be part machine part man. We have the power but we must hold fast as the blades of life cut away at our posesssions.

We have control. Fortunately we are held fast in a mold that assures us some hope of success.............:D:D

If anybody guesses this it will blow me away because I am really outside the box with this clue thingy!!!!!!!!:rofl::rofl: Lock ME UP!!!!!!!!:rofl::rofl:
Shaz:)

Robert Schaubhut

01-08-2008, 01:04 AM

Good evening :wave:,
(considering Ed's idea of chucking up the circle in the drill press)

The riddle.. The answer...

This wounded drill press has no power left, lying like a dead soldier, on his side. Adding some semblance of life to the prostrate giant, we can only turn the shaft by hand, it has no power it is dead. What use is it now?
(The piece I need to shape needs held vertically but not being turned by a machine)

Seperate it from it's catch. (Take off the circle from the unuseable drill press) There is nevertheless a glimmer of hope as we try to be part machine part man. (we need be machine like during production phases) We have the power but we must hold fast (inserting the circle into the hole in order for it to be cut) as the blades ( a router bit) of life cut away at our posesssions.(The circle we wish to shape)

We have control. Fortunately we are held fast in a mold that assures us some hope of success (using the circle pattern).............:D:D

Today I have photos that may help clear up some questions.

A photo of the router bit set for height and depth of cut.
16301

Here is a pic of the hole, used as the retaining guide for all the circles, held fast as is the actual fence itself.
16302

Here is a closer view of the bit in the hole, yet by now you have it all digested I'm sure.
16304

And at last... something to go in the hole where something is guaranteed to happen. 16303
Shaz :)

Robert Schaubhut

01-08-2008, 01:45 AM

Moving on to the actual piece will be rather visual.
Here is the turning of the circle. # 2 is the back of the piece, set into the hole pattern.
16306
16307
16308

The number #3 was the first tiny section I turned and took a photo of but it did not turn out, so we have a photo of #3's cut and #4's longer cut on the edge of the circle.
16309

Chris mentioned earlier in this thread, his concern for the cut produced by the table saw 2 wing cutter. Here is the profile it cut.
16311
16312

Notice the marked difference on this piece cut by the router bit using the hole jig.
16313
16314

I have a much better chance getting the routered piece to member with a straight run than I would the piece from the table saw.

Ed Nelson

01-08-2008, 02:12 AM

Looks like a good solution Shaz!

Robert Schaubhut

01-08-2008, 11:36 AM

Thanks Ed, It took awhile to get there.

This done,
16319

I decided to rabbet the underside of the circle edge
16317

16318

then split the circles.
16320

16321

The cutting into quarters then takes place.
16322

Chris Mire

01-08-2008, 03:31 PM

thanks, shaz, i wondered if the router would work, i had envisioned the same problem as with the cutter on TS, but I can see those visions were incorrect.

it's amazing how much simpler things can be when you take the time to make proper and accurate jigs. also, the quality of the finished product is much higher.

thanks for sharing, now let's see how you join the rails, stiles and quarter rounds

chris

Robert Schaubhut

01-09-2008, 02:32 AM

Glad to have you all following this thread, we never know if our time is well spent with all the typing and pics unless we get some input. Thanks,
Shaz :)

I'll tell you, these little pieces can become really time consuming with all the different steps needed to get to the finshed product, however when thoughtout and cautiously executed, the results to the over all picture take the project to a different level.

We have the circles beaded, rabbeted and quartered except we don't really know if the quartering is exact:eek: and it must be. At this point I see 3 more steps before we can call the corners finished.

#1 We must make sure the 2 straight sides of the 1/4 round are exactly the same, so we set a stop block on the miter box and cut one side then flip it over and cut the other edge.

#2 For joinery I decided on biscuits, thus that process must be completed
16367

16368

16369

16370

16371

#3 We need to miter the corner bead on the existing 1/4 round corners to member with the straight run beading which we will apply later.
16372
16373

I decided to use 2 5/16" X 3/4" stock for the stiles and rails. This was all surfaced at the same time as the material for the circles.

The stiles and rails would be cut to within 1/8" of the hole door size, biscuited and glued up, the corners inset and glued and then the doors trimmed to fit when hung. The corners would be inset into the corners and then the straight run beaded molding would be applied to connect the miters whenever.

Robert Schaubhut

01-10-2008, 12:49 AM

Here is the door build, or al least the first part.:)

Sand my work surface as I want it as smooth as possible.
16416

Prepare the tools and materials needed to do the job. Arrange them as you see fit.
16417
16418

Here are pictures of the stile and rail glue up during the learning curve.
16419
16420
16421
These were filled with biscuits and aligned,

then the corners received their little mouthful of glue,
16422
and a reward,
16423

The corners when clamped like this pulled the doors into a better alignment.
16424

And a blow up of the corner set and stapled through the biscuits.
16425

Ed Nelson

01-10-2008, 01:31 AM

I'm curious Shaz. Didn't you make the beads on the rail and stiles? Are you just checking the fit of the corners? Why didn't you make a set of rails and stiles with the beads for a trail run?

Chris Mire

01-10-2008, 03:03 AM

ed,

i think shaz opted to add the bead later, seeing as how if he ran the bead on the rails and stiles before hand, he would have to remove the bead from the sections where the corner pieces connect.

we'll wait and see what shaz has to say though.

looking good shaz!!

chris

Greg Cook

01-10-2008, 03:31 AM

Coming right along, Shaz...:thumb:

16428

Assume the staples go on the back...:rolleyes:

How much of your work do you do in Poplar?

If these doors were for your upscale kitchen cabinet remodel, would you use the same method? If not, maybe later in another thread, show us your alternative for a bunch of cabinet doors....?

Back to :lurk: and http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Drooling/drooling-5.gif

:rofl:

Robert Schaubhut

01-10-2008, 03:41 AM

I'm curious Shaz. Didn't you make the beads on the rail and stiles? Are you just checking the fit of the corners? Why didn't you make a set of rails and stiles with the beads for a trail run?

ed,
:wave:
i think shaz opted to add the bead later, seeing as how if he ran the bead on the rails and stiles before hand, he would have to remove the bead from the sections where the corner pieces connect.

we'll wait and see what shaz has to say though.

looking good shaz!!

chris

Hi Ed :wave:, Chris has answered correctly, the bead would have had to be removed and then at the point where the corner joined with the stile and with the rail, a miter would have had to be made. This can be done but I opted to do it my way for speed, accuracy and safety. I laid this out so as to have 9 doors with the stiles the same length= 18 pieces, also 6 doors with the rails exactly the same,= 12 pieces. When I glued them all up and set corners in place I virtually cut 18 mitred pieces of trim exactly the same length , then set up and cut 12 pieces to fit the rail length minus the space for the corners (which were all exactly the same length, even with the miter on both ends). Not saying another way would be better or worse, I just vote for this one, this time.:)
Hi Chris :wave:, Good having you and Ed work through this with me.:thumb:

So far so good,
Shaz:)

16429

Robert Schaubhut

01-10-2008, 04:03 AM

Coming right along, Shaz...:thumb:

Thanks Greg:wave:...S

16428

Assume the staples go on the back...:rolleyes:

Asssume nothing... the doors get painted, thus the staples were every where and anywhere the would be of help,:D front and back. The thin gauge 5/8" staple type...shot with the grain. ...S

How much of your work do you do in Poplar?

I use it a lot for painting stock and for staining as it does real well with a stain I use with lacquer, called "Blonde It"....S

If these doors were for your upscale kitchen cabinet remodel, would you use the same method?
Probably not as there are too many holes from all the staples:huh:......:rofl: I did some really hot doors for a kitchen back in the late 80's. Each door had 7 pieces as I recall, all splined and molded both sides, some of the prettiest doors I have seen, no fasteners, mahogany from belize. I will look for a photo, then there were the doors we made for this cigar bar, they were really cool too, spanish cedar. Show you some time!:)...S (figured I better do it now as time is getting away.:D)

16430

16431

16432

16433

If not, maybe later in another thread, show us your alternative for a bunch of cabinet doors....?

Back to :lurk: and http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Drooling/drooling-5.gif

:rofl:
Thanks for checkin up on me!
Shaz :)
Good night.

Greg Cook

01-10-2008, 05:02 AM

Tip time...

"Sand my work surface as I want it as smooth as possible."
Afterwards, do you ever use waxed paper on your table where you do glue ups, to keep the glue from sticking?

"The thin gauge 5/8" staple type...shot with the grain. ...S"
I don't have a stapler yet, but this will get noted in the manual of the one I get...and maybe on my wall too! :rofl:

16434

"The thin gauge 5/8" staple type"
5/8":huh:? Do the ends come out the other side, then you nip them off with the clippers in your pic?

That's a cool looking glue bottle top... Special for bisquettes(:p)? Where did you get it?

Greg Cook

01-10-2008, 05:16 AM

Wow,

16437

Now those are some doors...Cigar Bar? Cabinets to hold the member's stoggies and cognac? (They have "key bottles" in Japan. You buy your favorite spirit and the club puts a tag with your name on it on the bottle and then puts the bottle in a locked, windowed box, for your next visit)

I did some really hot doors for a kitchen back in the late 80's.
Looking forward to seeing those to when you find them...

Ahhhh... A Shazzzzzam from the past!

16436

I see you've matured in your selection of shirts...

16438

(Eat your heart out, Norm....:rofl:)

Vaughn McMillan

01-10-2008, 06:26 AM

I really liked your vertical circle jig (the VertCirc jig), Shaz. It's fun reading through the thought process that got you there, too.

So...you've built a few doors here and there, huh? :p

And pay no attention to Greg. When you're that danged handsome, you can wear whatever the heck you want. :rofl:

Robert Schaubhut

01-11-2008, 12:50 AM

Tip time...

"Sand my work surface as I want it as smooth as possible."
Afterwards, do you ever use waxed paper on your table where you do glue ups, to keep the glue from sticking?

Hi Greg :wave:,
Wax paper is part of my palette if I need it but seldom do I use it....S

"The thin gauge 5/8" staple type...shot with the grain. ...S"
I don't have a stapler yet, but this will get noted in the manual of the one I get...and maybe on my wall too! :rofl:

(you have wall space?:eek:):D...S These staple guns shoot a max of 3/4". Use as needed.:rolleyes:

16434

"The thin gauge 5/8" staple type"
5/8":huh:? Do the ends come out the other side,

(since the staples are 5/8" and the material is 3/4" shy and considering that I filed the driving pin in the staple gun down to 1/16" they seemed to work real well on this project, so well I stapled from both sides...S :rofl:..)

then you nip them off with the clippers in your pic?

That's a cool looking glue bottle top... Special for bisquettes(:p)? Where did you get it?

Cute little tip isn't it!!!!! I believe it was at Cornerstone Hardware, Houston. If you can't find one, and would use one let me know I'll get one to you...S They are made for that very purpose, Bisquequettes :p :rofl:

Wow,

16437

Now those are some doors...Cigar Bar? Cabinets to hold the member's stoggies and cognac? (They have "key bottles" in Japan. You buy your favorite spirit and the club puts a tag with your name on it on the bottle and then puts the bottle in a locked, windowed box, for your next visit)

That is a similar and interesting approach..Thanks,...S

Looking forward to seeing those to when you find them...

Ahhhh... A Shazzzzzam from the past!

16436

I see you've matured in your selection of shirts...

(ahh, yes. I have evolved...S :rolleyes:)

16438

(Eat your heart out, Norm....:rofl:)

I really liked your vertical circle jig (the VertCirc jig), Shaz. It's fun reading through the thought process that got you there, too.

Hi Vaughn :wave:, Thank you kindly...S

So...you've built a few doors here and there, huh? :p

And pay no attention to Greg. When you're that danged handsome, you can wear whatever the heck you want. :rofl:

You are a "sweet talkin' guy" (to music..sweet talkin' sweet talkin' guyyyyyy!). Wish handsome were the case. As it is I think the good Lord blessed me with a gift instead and gave me the desire to share it.:dunno: But by the way... Thanks, Shaz:)

Here are several photos of a cigar bar door updated to jan 2008.:D

One is dirty, one is half dirty, one is of the front and one is of the back...I think. We will find out when I click "insert all"!

16476

16477

16478

16479

Shaz :)

Robert Schaubhut

01-11-2008, 12:49 PM

Now back to the theater doors.

Time to hinge the doors even though the trim is not run all around yet.
16495

Determining the center point for the 35mm hinge cup on the drill press is first in order.
16496

Once that is determined I mark the same distance left and right of center.
16497
16498

Since those marks don't move I used them for all boring on all the doors.
16499
16500

After the boring boring I use this over sized speed square to align my hinges, then use a self centering bit to start a hole for screws.
16501

One of the nice tools is the magnetic holder of the screw tips. Just can't beat this tool. If you don't have one go get it.
16502
16503

It is now time to set the screws in the door part of the hinge.
16504
Shaz :)

Chris Mire

01-12-2008, 02:36 AM

shaz,

i love using the magnet on the bit holder to get screws, those things love to prick your fingers when you dig for them..

coming along nicely
chris

glenn bradley

01-12-2008, 03:03 AM

I can think of a great idea for a FWW giveaway. I would love to go and work with Shaz for a week as his fetch and hold-it boy just for the experience ;-)

Robert Schaubhut

01-12-2008, 02:56 PM

Thanks Chris,
That screw poking can get old quick, I bet you have had your share too!:D
Shaz :)

Hi Glenn :wave:,
That fetch and hold it would last about 2 minutes. You would be nailing and cutting and I would be bringing you coffee! :thumb:
You guys would be amazed and possibly unable to work in my conditions with no dust collection and crowded conditions, with make shift jigs and out of date tools :D.
However, you are welcome to come and join in the fun anytime you get to Houston. Sorry at this time I can't provide a room but maybe in time that will change.
Thanks very much for a rather enormous compliment.:o
Shaz:)

So here we are with hinges on our doors and no where to go.:( I know!! let's mount them!
Fortunately for us they have the big hole on the middle:D.
We can set the doors on a 1/8" spacer, mark the correct spot with an awl, then reach through the hole with drill in hand and a screw on the magnetic tip, while holding the door snug against the stile and screw it into the pre punched hole.:rolleyes:
16542

I put one screw in the top and one in the bottom just to secure the hinges.
16543

I attached the two smaller doors so I could determine the position of the clip on center panel.
16544
16545
Thanks for coming by.
Shaz :)

Lee Clock

01-12-2008, 07:25 PM

Thanks for coming by.
Shaz :)

Thanks for all the effort to let me follow your wonderful work! With 1762 views so far, it's pretty obvious that I'm not he only one following.

Take care!

Lee:lurk:

joe blankshain

01-12-2008, 08:00 PM

Shaz,

Still continuing to amaze. I will try and be there at the same time as Glenn so that we can switch between "hold" and "fetch". If nothing else, we could all learn one thing from each other and become better woodworkers.

Ed Nelson

01-13-2008, 01:35 AM

I like the idea of hanging the doors before the panels are installed. Sure makes alignment easier!

Robert Schaubhut

01-13-2008, 02:08 PM

Hi Lee :wave:,
Thank you for your much appreciated input.
Shaz :)

Hi Joe :wave:,
You wanna start as "Fetchit" or "Holdit"?:rofl::rofl: We probably need several others too, "Liftit" and "Thunkit" come to mind. :rofl::rofl: It would be a fun thing to get a sweet project and have you guys come join in. Best case would be to have a job that had a little bit of everything from design then build and install. I can see it now:rolleyes:.

16597

We all bring something special to the table as you say Joe, and the sharing of those unique and special gifts are a blessing to the others.

Thanks for signing in,
Shaz:)

Hi Ed :wave:,
That is one of those things that cannot always happen as you know, but when it does it is an easier install on the doors.
Since I do alot of audio visual stuff I get this opportunity alot. That is due to the fact that the door needs hung and painted then the cloth on a different frame is inserted.

Sometimes when hanging doors with fixed panels I will try to go in from the top or the back during construction to make the door hanging easier. You can always remove the hinges( and hope the painter does not fill, prime and paint over your screw holes!) :doh:.
Hope this finds you well,
Shaz :)

Robert Schaubhut

01-13-2008, 03:08 PM

For the doors I needed to insert panels from the back that had corners cut off in a curved fashion. They will get wrapped with cloth and then inserted into the the doors from the back.
To cut the curves, since they were all the same (on purpose! for production in a one of a kind piece..) I needed to figure a way to reproduce the curve any number of times.

#1 Make a pattern with paper. I did this like we could do at a grave marker, with paper over the engraving and rub with crayon/pencil/ or dirty fingers.:eek:
16600

#2 Cut this pattern with scissors and trace it onto a piece of 1/4" ply as shown here.
16601

#3 Cut the 1/4" curve close to but not over the line. Once you cut away a segment of the line you have NO line to follow.Best when making a pattern is to cut between 1/32" and 1/8" outside the line and then sand/file/block plane or what ever needed to get rid of 1/2 of the line all along the mark. Your final objective is to have split the line on your pattern. That should give you what you need.
This is important!
16602

#4 With our first pattern made we can use it to trace the shape on the corners of our inset panels. (These panels, made of 1/2" baltic birch, have been cut to the size rectangle needed to fill the space of the doors minus about 1/8" shy, to accomodate for the cloth.
16603

#5 Once drawn on the 1/2" panels we can cut on the strong side of the line with a bandsaw, jig saw or tool of choice.
16604

#6 This photo shows the pattern screwed to the 1/2" baltic birch, in position to run a router on it with a copying bit. I usually use a bit with the roller on the bottom so I would have to turn this piece over to work it. Since these panels will be painted I am not concerned about the screw holes.
16605

Once I have a curve or two cut on the 1/2" ply, I can use that as the pattern for the rest if I so choose.
Understanding the concept of the pattern making for repetitive use is a good thing.
Shaz :)

Robert Schaubhut

01-17-2008, 12:51 AM

Since the panels that will be wrapped with cloth and then inset into the back of the doors have been cut, it is time to finish trimming out the interior of the doors.

Like Greg always says "divide and conquer".:D Divide that big job into smaller parts.

Have a look at the plan. Notice the the three doors left of the center panel and right of it are going to be the same size vertically and horizontally.

17483

Also make note that the center panel and the two doors at the very outside, at the edge of the picture are the same height! :eek: What does that mean to the one of a kind production builder?

#1- 9 doors/panels the same height = 18 stiles all cut at the same time with the same stop block! :thumb:

#2- 6 doors the same width = 12 rails cut the same length.

#3- 2 end doors same width = 4 rails same length

#4- center panel has 2 rails the same length.

Now if that is not good enough there is more!:rolleyes:

When the stiles and rails were glued up, the rails were glued up flush to the top and bottom of the stiles, then the quarter rounds were inserted into the 90° created by the rail and stile.

The quarter rounds were cut at the same time with the same stop block so they too are exactly the same size as each other. Thus we have a "voila".

Question "What "voila" do you think has happened?"

Answer "Due to the stiles, rails and quarter rounds being the same size as each other,

and considering the exactness when glueing the rails to the stiles, the insertion of the quarter round, and compressing them into the corners tightly, we have created.........in theory............

the same setting for a stop block to cut,

18 pieces of trim for the stiles, change stop block and cut

12 pieces of trim for the 12 rails cut the same length, change stop block and cut

4 more pieces of trim for the 2 outside door rails (to be cut after the cabinets have been built), change stop block and cut

2 pieces the same length for the long center clip on panel.

Granted I did have a + or - variance of 1/32" for a snug fit but all in all it does work well.
THINK REPETITIVE/ with accuracy.
Much easier than cutting 36 individual pieces of trim.

16789
16790
16791
16792
16793
Shaz :)

Lee Clock

01-17-2008, 10:45 AM

Viola indeed! What method will you use to attach the trim pieces?

Lee

Robert Schaubhut

01-18-2008, 12:56 PM

Viola indeed! What method will you use to attach the trim pieces?

Lee

The gun I used is rather new to me however I have similar guns with like sized pins. This gun is a Porter Cable with a very thin gauge wire pin. I have a photo, not too clear, squeezing the the nail clip together with a utility knife blade, another showing the actual hole in the wood. Got it at Home D.
Pins plus Titebond II

16832

16833

16834

16835

Greg Cook

01-18-2008, 03:25 PM

Ahhhh. Nice little headless pin nailer. Great for that fine trim work. So, how many times have you put that door together now.....(divide...,right!:rofl:)? On to the the next "round"....:D

:wave:

Ed Nelson

01-18-2008, 05:31 PM

I need to get one of those pinners!

Robert Schaubhut

01-19-2008, 12:52 AM

Nice to hear from you Greg and Ed :wave:,

That little nailer shoots max 3/4" (as I recall) and the pieces need glue too, but it is great for appliques. This small thin stuff you will glue and don't want to split or show an obvious nail hole so it is good for what it does. Under a hundred bucks.

Proceeding,
we go to the setting of the center speaker panel which will be a clip on.
The doors left and right were hung and adjusted for the vertical alignment before the center panel was set in place.

16881 1

Maybe you can see the 1/8" x 2" aluminum angle I use for the spacer at the bottom of the panel. As I see it, a 1/16" crack looks better, but let's face facts, with use, kids, people leaning on the knob side when open, slop in the mechanical parts, and whatever, the 1/8" space is the best option.

The panel was set on the aluminum angle pieces (they were left over from a job then cut to size on the radial arm saw to about 2" long, filed the burrs, a great addition if you get the chance) and centered left and right. This an overlay door application so when aligned I reached inside and marked the edges where stiles and rails touched the panel.

16882 2

Whenever I have multiple bags of sealed hardware, clips, drawer slides, or whatever I just get out the utility knife and slit them all at one time. No more macho for me. (learning curve, not lack of strength:rofl:)!

16883 3

I use the double roller catch on this type application. Since the line has been marked on the panel for the edge of the opening, I figure out where the catch needs be when the rollers are attached to the cabinet walls and affix the catch. The term catch and clip I use inner changeably:dunno:. Sorry.

16884 4

Below is a photo of the panel with the clips screwed on and the rollers engaged in the clip.

16885 5

These two photos below give you a view of the rollers, which are connected to the clips (the clip is the part of the assembly that is screwed to the back of the panel). With the clip screwed on and the roller in the clip, and the panel in the hole on the aluminum 1/8" angles I can reach through the panel opening and screw the roller part of the assembly to the side of the cabinet.

16886

16887

Here you notice my holding the panel in place during the securing of the lower right roller catch.

16888

16889

Finally, you see the panel firmly secured with the 4 roller catches.

16890

Shaz :)

Robert Schaubhut

01-19-2008, 02:26 PM

That panel is to cover the center channel speaker. The speaker is about 13" high x 30" wide x 18" deep. If set on a shelf so as to play through the opening in the panel, the sound would hit the listener in the knees. It would be easy to do a flat shelf, who would ever know?:rolleyes:........... I would!:doh:

Okay, so make a slanted shelf.
Requirements;
#1 sound needs come through the opening in the panel
#2 Sound should be aimed at the face of the seated listeners
#3 strength to support heavy speaker

Fortunately I did have a floor plan for seating.

I determined the distance from the front of the speaker to the approximate postion of the viewers head when seated in the extremely comfortable theater seating I am sure they will have. I did this by measuring out the distance horizontally from the speaker 10'6" and then up 40" to where I figured their ears would be when seated.

I erected a simple pole with a nail at the hypothetical position of the ears:D and strung a chalk line from that nail to a point that would be the center of the speaker from front to back when set on the shelf.

This determined my angle.

I then measured down 6 1/2" and ran a parallel line for the surface of the shelf.
Here are some photos of the process, with a drawing of the shelf profile on the cabinet wall.

16917

It was time to cut a triangle to match the drawing, just part of the research and development.

16918

Then with a piece of plywood the same as I intended using for the actual shelf several measurements were made to assure me that the speaker would fit.

16919

16920

All good for now.
Shaz :)

Robert Schaubhut

01-20-2008, 07:22 PM

Figuring 8 triangles would suffice it was the next thing to do.
Let us suppose I needed the triangles to be 3" tall x14" wide cut on an angle. This is my method for reproducing straight line cuts on odd shaped pieces.

(Disclaimer; being this is merely my method which works for me, don't do any procedure you are unsure of unless you are willing to accept the responsibilities for the results, good or bad. Shaz)

#1 I cut 4 rectangles 3 1/8" x 14" long. (cut diagonally this will give me the 8 pieces)

#2 Cut a thin ripping about 1" wide x 3/4" thick. Reset the TS fence to about 5" (adequate for my needs here) and rip a 3/4" piece 5" x ...Oh :rolleyes:, say 32" long.

#3 Screw the 3/4" ripping along the edge of the 5" wide board. Don't move the fence!

16952

#4 Measure down from the corner(where the 3 /18" edge meets the 14" long side) of the rectangle to 3" and make a mark. Then do the same on the other end of the rectangle. Draw a line from corner to the 3" mark. Do the same with the other line. You have defined the kerf, while creating two equal triangles 3" X 14".

16953

#5 I will now screw the rectangle to the 5" board with the rectangle lined up on the line we drew so that the blade will properly cut where the kerf should be to give us two equal pieces. See above illustration.

(The ripping that we screwed on earlier is a spacer, the same thickness as my rectangles. This adds safety :thumb: when passing the 5" board through the TS blade.)

With the rectangles attached to the 5" board on the blade side and the ripping near the fence, the 5" guiding board will not tilt into the blade from lack of even support under it..

In the photo below you can see one of the rectangles has been screwed to the straight edge and one merely has the mark (one line only, for me).

16955

I decided to cut 2 at a time, for safety :thumb:, so as to balance the 5" straight guide board.

#6 Time to rip the rectangles. Here we see the first one cut and the other in progress.

16956

In the photo below you can see the second rectangle cut completely and a view of the jig (cross section) almost past the blade

16961

Here we have the rectangles as cut and the straight edge.

16957

A glimpse of the triangles cut.

16958

Finally we get to nail something together!

16959

After sanding this will be done.

16960

Now what? The pillars, the frieze or the supports for the removable section of deck top? On and on it goes, where it stops will not surprise you. Or will it?:rolleyes:

Ed Nelson

01-20-2008, 08:31 PM

Lookin' good! I don't know that I'd have even thought about angling the speaker up. Makes a lot of sense and you did a great job on it (as if I expected anything else)!

Chris Mire

01-20-2008, 10:51 PM

coming along nicely shaz.....or is it already done and you're just documented in the past tense...:p

doors look great. can't wait to see this thing finished and all together. when is the grand opening of the theater, how much for tickets? :D

chris (still following just been busy)

Robert Schaubhut

01-22-2008, 01:36 PM

Lookin' good! I don't know that I'd have even thought about angling the speaker up. Makes a lot of sense and you did a great job on it (as if I expected anything else)!
Hi Ed :wave:,
The angle idea is not new to me, nor is it my idea. Don't think I would have ever snapped to it if audio folks hadn't pointed it out in the first place. It is one of those things to add to the mental computer for reference down the road:D.
Good luck today.
Shaz :)

coming along nicely shaz.....or is it already done and you're just documented in the past tense...:p
Hi Chris :wave:,
Some stuff is done like the frieze and the pillars. Today's focus is again on the cabinets just to the left and right of the pillars, the ones to get the "bronze feathers?". They are about 18" X 29" X 91" and house speakers in the bottom section.

doors look great. Thanks :) can't wait to see this thing finished and all together. when is the grand opening of the theater, (only time will tell :rolleyes:) how much for tickets? :D (Don't know:huh:, How about a buck 2 80?:dunno:........:rofl:S )

chris (still following just been busy)
Glad to hear you are busy. That is a real blessing. :thumb:

Here is the frieze, complete with no frills. Just another piece to the KD (knock down) puzzle.

17025

17026

17027

17028

17029

17030

They are planning on giving this stuff a primer and one finished coat before it goes to the 3rd floor, then I will install it and they will paint it once more. Then it will get the faux as I understand it.

Robert Schaubhut

01-27-2008, 12:06 AM

The pillars that need built serve several purposes and have been found to be quite useful in the past. One example is this theater I did awhile back. It used the stairstep pillars to transition from the front most point, ( usually that cabinet in which the components fit, to the screen which is recessed, farther back from the viewer) to the screen.

17239

In this photo you can see the components in a cabinet to the right of the pillars, ( actually the photo that shows the components is in the thumbnails:huh:, and the one below is just a duplicate of the first:dunno:. No flim flam here, just plain ignorant to how it works.....:rolleyes::rofl:...Good news though! I claim " I am educate able"!:rofl:)

17239

and here you can see the pillars open, hung on soss hinges to allow access to the rear of the screen.

17241

Pillars used in the new theater I am building are mainly for an interesting transition from the projecting cabinet back to a smaller image size on the screen. There will be 6" of screen hidden behind the pillar on each side.

17242

Chris Mire

01-27-2008, 01:18 AM

more nice work

good job shaz

now get back to work and finish that theater so i can come watch a movie :D

Robert Schaubhut

01-31-2008, 10:34 PM

The stairstep pillars will have 2 parts for the left of the screen and 2 parts for the right of the screen. Of those two parts one will be fixed to the cabinet wall, the decktop and the soffit. It will be 61" tall with a rectangular footprint. The other part will be a stairstep and only 60 13/16" tall as it will be set in place after the screen is put in place.

This is a photo of the 2 columns that will be screwed to the cabinets on each side of the screen.

17374

The photo below shows a plan of the stairstep pillar in 1"=1" scale.

17375

Having cut all the pieces to length we can see the construction of the 2 removable pillars taking shape.

17376

17377

Once the shape has been connected with all the long pieces we wanted to keep the pillar square so we cut a filler for the top and bottom of each piece.

17378

It was important to keep the pillars square, therefore we did not make any modification to the out side corners of the piece we decided to cut up for the filler. It came to the bandsaw already tablesaw square. As you can see I wasn't concerned about the rest of the pillar, just the important 90° corner.

17379

All worked out well and we went on to the soffit and the double 2x6.
Shaz :)
Don't buy tickets yet! We have more to do, even though the painters picked up the finished stuff today and took it out to another warehouse to be painted. :D

Chris Mire

01-31-2008, 11:13 PM

Robert Schaubhut

02-01-2008, 02:00 AM

i have to admit shaz, this has been an eye opening experience, i never would have thought a theater system could be so complex. now i know why your customers insist on having you build their theaters. only the best for them :thumb:

chris
Hi Chris :wave:,
You are too kind with your compliments. I, like so many here, you included, reguardless of the project, enjoy what they are doing and want to be better. We will retain techniques, remember tips and make use of creative solutions to best finish our project with the utmost pride of workmanship.

Larger projects like this give me more opportunities to fail in parts of the building process all along the way, thus giving me more oppotunities to succeed by persistence. We seek to be winners. Persistence is the ladder.:thumb:
Shaz :)

The Soffit,

Quick and easy, about a 14' span, made in 2 pieces so as to get it up to the 3rd floor.
The frieze (this may actually be the architrave) is the front decorative vertical span of about 14' but it is more flat and thin. Then we have the 2 2x6s joined, surfaced and flat glued together and screwed that will support the back of the soffit, right next to the screen.

17381

17382

17383

17384

Don't have photo of the 2x6s but maybe on the way up the stairs.:eek::rofl:

joe blankshain

02-01-2008, 08:35 PM

Its coming along Shaz. Have been busy, bit have kept an eye on this thread. keep up the good work.

Robert Schaubhut

02-02-2008, 04:09 PM

Thanks Joe :wave:,
Glad you are busy, stop by as you have time:D.

The speaker cabinets.....

Need build 2 speaker boxes that will be beside the pillars left and right of the screen.

17453

They are the cabinets that will have the light box and the cast (bronze or brass) capitals on the top. Each will have an upper and lower door.

The doors are different on these boxes. The inside corner rounds have been eliminated to give a more vertical presentation and more of a straight panel look to the column. The speakers are 14.96" wide with 12" sub woofer (determining factor for width of unblocked cloth).

Consider the fixed unchangable dimensions we have to work with!

#1 total height of cabinet, fixed.
#2 inside width, minimum 14.97":eek::D
#3 12" woofer needs 12" unhampered flow of air through the door covering
#4 center point of the 3/4" molding between the two doors needs be close to 45" off the finished floor
#5 from the bottom of the subwoofer to the top of the top orifice on the speaker it is 31", thus we need 31" unhampered vertical space.
#6 total depth of cabinet to be 29" (front of doors to wall)

This is an area that often causes problems without fixed, specified dimensions. In this case I have the needed information.

The problem arises, say in a kitchen where they show the floor plan with cabinets 24" deep. My confusion is this, (24" to the front of the countertop, the face of the doors, or the face of the stiles and rails?) With out clarity from the "boss" a problem can arise. Entertainment centers also need serious questions asked before we jump:eek:.

The cabinet needed to be as narrow as possible for the capital to have room to flair out. See where the ceiling is slanted up and in, thus restricting the height on the outside (determining point) corner of the capital.

Making up the story pole was the answer to getting the results I needed. It then gave me the confidence that my sizes were correct and I could start a cut list and cut some wood.

I ripped 4 pieces of domestic D-3 birch to 28 " then turned them 180° and ripped then to 27 1/2" cutting off the factory edge.
It was time to crosscut to length, and since I used the story pole to mark that dimension, what the heck, might as well mark the lines for the floor the ceiling and the necessary molding positions, with the flick of a pencil.

17484

17454

17455

17456

17457

17458

17459

Robert Schaubhut

02-02-2008, 04:21 PM

Once the story pole is made the marks get transfered to the real pieces.

17460

My first move is to crosscut to length. Since the finished height is 91 1/2" my choice is to use a rip fence for my circular saw rather than the table saw. I bet the slider guys could cut it in a heart beat! :dunno: That's okay too! :D

Here is the aligning of the guide.

17461

And these are pics of the crosscut progress.

17462

17463

17464

The finished cut is good and accurate.

17465
Shaz :)

Robert Schaubhut

02-03-2008, 02:35 PM

Sides being cut, we needed three different depths for the horizontal pieces, ie.

#1 The roof and the floor of the upper upper section.
2 cabinets = 4 pieces
2 roofs = covered by top rail in front, flush to back edge of the
vertical side

#2 The shelves
2 each cabinet = 4 pieces
note; set back, behind doors, consider :rolleyes: banding front edge

#3 The floor, lower section
1 each cabinet = 2 pieces.

Since the outside dimension is 18", the inside width for me was 16 9/16".

Important Note! I want to cut everything that needs to be cut to 16 9/16" at the same time therefore speeding the process and increasing the possibility of all these piece being the same 16 9/16".......:thumb:

The list needing to be cut is almost staggering when considered! When I grasped this simple mystery my box making and speed improved dramatically.

The list...
2 tops
2 floors, bottom section
2 floors, upper section
4 shelves
4 banding pieces for 4 shelves
4 ledger strips for the shelves (rear cleat)
4 trim pieces below ledger strip
2 ledger strips for the 2 roofs
2 trim pieces below ledger strip
2 ledger strips for the 2 floors of the upper section
4 front and rear cleats to support the floor in the bottom section.
These things listed are the ones I can think of just now. It never hurts to cut extra pieces either at this time.

Planning and preparing for this monsterous cut section, takes time but once prepared may only take 15 minutes to cut them all.
Shaz :)

Robert Schaubhut

02-06-2008, 12:30 AM

Sometimes after you get this all cut up you are so pumped up by what seems like alot of work on the saw, you forget about taking pictures, and just start nailing.

We had all the sides marked, thus when we got this stuff cut, we nailed on the cleats for the floor to the bottom section, and the cleats for the floor of the upper section to the sides of the cabinet, then secured the floors to those pieces, added cleats and ledger strips for the shelves and top. We affixed out shelves and top then we banded the shelves and applied our stiles and rails.
Here are some photos.

17577

17578

17579

17580

17581

17582

17583

17584

17585

17586

Robert Schaubhut

02-06-2008, 12:40 AM

The base protrudes and the doors sit on top of that. The stiles are molded but stop midway as there is trim that wraps the front corners. The plane block (part of the stile)stops at the same place as the molding that bands the doors(running horizontally). You will see this later.

17587

This is the speaker cabinet with out the trim.

This was as far as I could go before trim. We put the speaker cabinet with the adjoining lower cabinet and the pillars in order to bolt align them for ease of joining on site.

Robert Schaubhut

02-06-2008, 12:55 AM

We laid the speaker cabinet on its side, put the lower cabinet on top of that and then placed the pillars where they would go.
This is the position they will sit in when affixed and turned 90°.

17589

17590

17591

And this is the fastening system for the lower cabinets and the speaker cabinet.

17592

We will use a 2" hole saw alot, sometimes for a wiring pass through and some times for gaining access to a bolt in the right place.

17593

17594

17595

With this done I mark where the lower cabinet touches the side of the speaker cab. That is the termination point of the trim coming around the front of the speaker cabinet at the base, and the position of the pillars gives me the mid cabinet termination point for that midrail trim. :dunno:
That's my story and I'm sticking to it!:D
Shaz :)

Robert Schaubhut

02-07-2008, 12:57 PM

After a long wait the preliminary painting has begun, prime, and paint by others. We helped deliver the puzzle to a warehouse just up the street for the painters to start work.
You can see in the pictures below the speaker cabinets with the trim mid way and the finished base, both terminating about 7" from the face as explained previously.

17641

17642

Brad Hungler

02-07-2008, 01:56 PM

Ed Nelson

02-07-2008, 10:08 PM

Hey Shaz!:wave: It's really coming together nicely now! Sorry I haven't posted much, but I'm still following along!

Robert Schaubhut

02-08-2008, 12:35 PM

Hello Shaz,
This thread is awesome, detail is incredable. Thanks for all the time it takes to post. Do you think you could narrow it to a half hour program on DIY network. It always gets me when they air a project in a half hour or even an hour when you know the project takes months. I am really pinched for time and would make make a pretty penny if I could build a theater in half or one hour.:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:

Hi Brad :wave:,
Thanks for the gracious compliment. The posting does take alot of time as you well know.
It would be nice to shorten the writing and get onto a 1/2 hour diy but when I try to shorten what I write about these steps, even I can't understand it.:dunno::D...S

[quote=Ed Nelson;87446]Hey Shaz!:wave: It's really coming together nicely now! Sorry I haven't posted much, but I'm still following along!

Hi Ed :wave:,
Nice to hear from you, thanks. I know you are busy, that's good! No way you are getting off the team!:D ....S quote]

Here are a few more photos of the priming of some parts

17698

17699

17700

17701

17702

17703

17704

joe blankshain

02-08-2008, 07:43 PM

Continuing to do quality work and provide quality instruction. Thanks Shaz!!

Robert Schaubhut

02-10-2008, 03:28 PM

Thanks Joe, appreciate the input.

The doors for the speaker cabinet

These doors took some thought. Reason why was this.

The doors are different on these boxes. The inside corner rounds have been eliminated to give a more vertical presentation and more of a straight panel look to the column. The speakers are 14.96" wide with 12" sub woofer (determining factor for width of unblocked cloth).

Consider the fixed unchangable dimensions we have to work with!

#1 total height of cabinet, fixed.
#2 inside width, minimum 14.97":eek::D
#3 12" woofer needs 12" unhampered flow of air through the door covering
#4 center point of the 3/4" molding between the two doors needs be close to 45" off the finished floor
#5 from the bottom of the subwoofer to the top of the top orifice on the speaker is 31", thus we need 31" for open air/ passing through unobstucted space, vertically. (acoustical cloth not considered an obstruction)
#6 total depth of cabinet to be 29" (front of doors to wall)
#7 hinged
#8 frame with acoustical cloth to be installed after painting
#9 outside width dimension determined to be 18"

Width was the issue.
I decided on using a 35mm full overlay hinge with a 120° opening. It was the thinnest of the invisible hinges and allowed the door to cover the entire face of the cabinet, outside to outside, left to right. This meant I had to have about 1 1/2" of meat on the edge of the door for the hinge cup.

I decided to use 1/2" baltic birch as I wanted my door to start out square as the cut on the tablesaw could make it. I like the idea of using one large piece to fit and then worry about making it look like solid wood after I am assured that the door is going to be the correct sized rectangle.

In this case I surfaced enough poplar down to the thickness just strong of the thickness of the baltic birch.

17751

Applying the square poplar all around was the next step. (Pay no attention to the red end :doh:, this is for demonstrarion purposes only:o)

17752

Once the poplar was glued and nailed on, we sanded it flat to the surface of the baltic birch.

Next phase was to drill a hole in the 4 corners of this panel as noticed by the simulated, pencil marked circle. These holes allow a pleasant ending for the tablesaw kerf (marked in pencil). Exercise caution when performing this drop cut and with all your woodworking endeavors.

17753

Once the whole hole is cut out I like to use the trim router and round over both sides of that hole, it just feels good.:rolleyes:

With that done I now apply an already run 1 3/4" x 3/4" piece of poplar flush to the edge of the banded baltic birch. It has been rounded over to match the radius of the short column details (although they are a full diameter) on the front lower cabinets.

17754

17755

With that molding run all the way around it is time to sand them and bore the 35mm holes for the hinges. That all done I can measure the inside dimension of the doors and cut some 1/2" baltic birch approximately 1/8" shy of the inside dimension for the frames that will accept the cloth.:D

There is alot to do yet, we have the corner cabinets and the install. What a puzzle, plus all the cloth frames and :eek::eek::eek::eek:!!!!! Is it the delivery to the 3rd floor? There are some tight corners even in this big house. Can we use the elevator?:dunno: What about the dogs that want to eat my lunch and me too?:eek: Is it the fact that we may have to cantilever the frieze halfway out over the grand living room to get it through a doorway? Or is it????????:eek::eek::eek::doh: Oh my!:rolleyes:

Ed Nelson

02-10-2008, 07:06 PM

I'm looking forward to seeing how you do the cloth doors. I was not completely happy with the doors I made a few months ago and will be interested in how you go about it.

Robert Schaubhut

02-12-2008, 11:27 AM

I'm looking forward to seeing how you do the cloth doors. I was not completely happy with the doors I made a few months ago and will be interested in how you go about it.

Hi Ed :wave:,
How did you do your cloth doors? I have seen some beautifully done and some others not so. I have done some of the latter but think I am headed more toward the former!:rofl::rofl: It has been an evolving process for the last 15 years. Actually it started when I was getting my undergrad degree in Art. We learned to stretch canvas to paint on, around stretchers, with upholstery tacks and a hammer.:eek: You know hammer, tack, ouch! :rofl:

The cabinets next to the wall.

These are the last of the cabinets to be built. I have heard the suggestion in favor of getting a moving company to get the painted boxes up the stairs, so, :rolleyes: I am trying to get the last 2 cabinets built so they can go with the rest on that moving day.

I am building them the same, in theory as the speaker cabinets. Story pole out the height on aready ripped to width sides. Story pole the position of the floors, the roof and the shelves, top and bottom of the doors and the position of the chair rail on all 4 sides. Start at the bottom and go from there. Photos to come later.

Ed Nelson

02-12-2008, 01:19 PM

I cut a panel frame out of 1/4" ply and wrapped the speaker cloth around it and stapled on the back side. the top and bottom were folded, tucked and stapled to the back also. It came out ok, but I'm sure it could have been better!

Robert Schaubhut

02-16-2008, 12:23 AM

Hi Ed :wave:,
stretching cloth is not something to be taken lightly. It (the cloth) performs a function and is part of the look. We will talk about it some later on, unless you have a job pending...Shaz :)

The cabinets next to the wall.
I am building them the same, in theory as the speaker cabinets. Story pole out the height on aready ripped to width sides. Story pole the position of the floors, the roof and the shelves, top and bottom of the doors and the position of the chair rail on all 4 ripped pieces that will be my sides. Start at the bottom and go from there.

17891

With the bottom cleat applied to all 4 pieces, I decided to unstack the sides and start nailing on the other cleats (I am calling all the wood used under a floor/shelf/roof that I nail to the wall of the box to support that floor/shelf/roof a "cleat").

With some cleats, I needed to move them forward about 3/4". That measurement is actually determined by the board (cleat) that would span left to right, front or back. I use the exact piece that will be nailed in that position (when I start nailing my sides together) as the determining factor for the distance the cleats need moved.

17892

17893

The photo showing the set up to nail the 3/4"x3/4" cleat shows the board to be used to support the back of the shelves. That same board will allow me a solid board to screw through into the wall to hold the cabinet securely.
The wider cleat will be the support for the floor of the upper section of the cabinet. It is being moved back the thickness of the front cleat (the one standing vertically) which will also serve as a solid backer to the midrail which will back up the chair rail detail.

It may be difficult to understand what I am saying, it is difficult to explain also. Ask what you don't understand and we will try work it out.
Shaz

Robert Schaubhut

02-16-2008, 02:23 PM

The cabinet will have 2 floors and a roof, all the exact same size. They will nail on flush to the front and flush to the back of the sides.

Since the roof nails on flush to the top of the two sides I will not nail on cleats for the roof until the roof is nailed in.

I laid one side flat on the table, glued the top of the cleat and the side of the cabinet laying on the table. Put down into the glue one of the floors, then check the two places for cracks.

#1 The crack between the floor and the cleat
#2 The crack between the floor and the side wall

Tacking the end as it hangs over the table (so I can shoot up through the side into the edge of the floor) and also into the cleat helps hold it vertically. One more 1 1/2" nail near the back into the cleat makes it more secure. Eliminate the cracks before you nail

17898

Here you see the floor squeezed firmly to the cleat closing that crack while downward pressure eliminates the crack between the floor and the side wall. Nailing now takes place into the cleat all along the floor (don't hesitate to use a speed square or whatever to try maintaining some semblence of square as you nail).

17899

The same procedure occurs with the mid cabinet floor.

17900

With these two floors glued and nailed I added the other side after putting glue on top of the cleat and on the edge of the vertical floors. It was tough getting the side upside down and in place but knowing it hade to be done I flipped it over, situated it on the cleats, tacked it in, cleaned off the smeared glue, aligned, clamped and nailed (through the side into the floor and through the floor into the cleat) while checking for reasonable squareness. Then added a 2" screw through the side into the edge of the floor. Roll over 180°, (the cabinet, not me:rolleyes:) and nail and screw through the side into the floors.

I now took the roof. glued it in place and nailed it (that eliminated the flopping unsecured top of the cabinet).
With this done I could add the rear cleats for the floors and the shelves, and the roof! Remember, they are all the same size and they are already cut.

17901

This is where we are headed....

17902

We have banding for the shelves, just happens to be cut, oh yeah, thats right, it is the same width too,:rolleyes: so we nail that onto the shelf first and then we can insert and attach the shelves.

17903

More later.
Shaz:)

Robert Schaubhut

02-21-2008, 02:03 AM

The next step is to nail on the stiles and rails (like "rail"road tracks is how I remember which way they go), rails horizontal, left to right or vice versa:D)

Here are 2 pic of the way I go about flushing up stiles or rails before nailing.

18039

18040

It seems to be a rather good way of looking at flush for nailing.
Shaz:)

Robert Schaubhut

02-24-2008, 01:20 PM

With the corner cabinet built out as far as possible we took it to the painter for priming.

18091

18092

18093

It was decided to make doors with larger radius corners than the ones use on the cabinets, across and below the screen.

This decided, it was once again time to do the circles.

Wide enough boards were easily procured and the process was begun again.

18094

When making component parts that take several set ups and several different procedures I have found if wise to make more components than you need then chose the best for the project.

18095

It will be important to cut the blanks larger than the pattern so we can then use the pattern and the copying bit/pattern bit with the bearing to reproduce as many copies as necessary to the correct size. I try cutting close as possible with the bandsaw without cutting into the patterned space. No sense having the router working too hard.

18096

#1 With the blanks cut I screwed through the pattern into the blank's backside, using 1 1/4" screw to secure the two pieces to gether.
#2 Then I set up the copying bit with the roller bearing high, touching the pattern and the cutting taking place on the blank as was intended.

There was a lapse in the photo taking during this phase. If you are not clear let me know.

Robert Schaubhut

02-27-2008, 12:15 AM

With the circles all patterned (process done on the router table with the copying bit) to the needed diameter (the pattern) it was time to add the bead to the edge of the circles as before.
A show of the bit setup in the router table helps to show part of the procedure.

18157

Since I had 2 holes in the back of each circle (due to the 1 1/4" screws used to mount the pattern to the blank) I decided to use the holes and some little white pieces I had left over (hinge plug inserts). I screwed a screw through the white plastic plug into the existing hole in the backside of the blank.

18158

This gave me something to hang onto, something I hadn't thought of during the previous circles.

18159

It seemed to be a better system with the handles at least for the few circles I needed to mold.

18160

18161

18162

When finished we sanded the faces of the circles.

18163

Robert Schaubhut

02-27-2008, 11:20 AM

While round, knowing we would inset panels in the doors, from the rear, it was a good idea to rabbet the circles rather than try to rabbet quarters of the circle individually.

18169

18170

Earlier, before the circles were cut on the band saw, it was easy to take a framing square and draw a line through the center of the circles, off one of the straight edges, then combination square a 90° line through the center too. These lines will give me a reference point for cutting the circles in half and then into quarters on the radial arm saw.

18171

With the circles cut into 4 parts I needed be sure all parts were exactly the same on each side and same as each other. Here you see a stop block that remains stationary for both cuts,

#1 a cut with the top up
18173

#2 a cut with the bottom up
18172.

This done we have equal sides on our curved corner to be. :D

Greg Cook

03-07-2008, 03:32 AM

Uh.... Been kinda dry here lately.:huh: Shaz on a sabbatical or sumpin'?

:doh:

:rofl:

Robert Schaubhut

03-15-2008, 05:03 PM

Uh.... Been kinda dry here lately.:huh: Shaz on a sabbatical or sumpin'?

:doh:

:rofl:
Oh Greg :wave:, You know better than that.

I have been on a 3 week ski trip to Breckenridge Colorado where I spent time with some old friends I used to lived with. They still live there.
It was spectacular, snow was great and the weather perfect. When it got dark and overcast it was going to snow, (what skier hates the snow?):D, and other than that it was just plain sunny and beautiful,:D. With everything covered by snow all the litter and debris uncommon to nature was covered with a clean white blanket. We skied every day and the climax to the whole trip was (over the climax) so to speak, a real adventure.
With permission from the ski patrol we took the lifts as high as possible on Peak 8 (the ski area is set on the north side of a 10 peak range) and started hiking, up. The air get thinner than already thin, but with skis under arm we went to the summit. Then traversing the ridge we stumbled across the rockie ridges of Peak 7 and Peak 6. Surprisingly enough up there at the very top it is wind blown dry in most places, so movement is possible with no fear of falling over the edge.
About 3 hours after leaving the top of the lifts at Peak 8 we arrived at the climax. It was the point at which we would clip on our skis and ski down the backside of the mountain range to the valley floor. My friends had done this before as they knew where to go. It was breath taking, all virgin land with unskied power. The meadow, the glades, the pristine forest, the quiet and untracked widerness became a playground for just a short time in this a most marvelous dream.:eek:

The dream however did not end until we reached the valley floor just in time to catch the bus from Copper Mountain back to Breckenridge.:D

It was a great dream, one that did happen to me but it was back in the mid 70's. :doh:It happened in real life and real time, I think.:huh:
Hope you enjoyed the story of one of the great memorable times in my life,
a season pass to ski Breckenridge. It was screening t-shirts and making deep dish pizza different nights and skiing all day. Almost too much fun to be legal.:D
As of late the last 3 weeks I have been working on something special :rolleyes:....can you guess what :huh:, it is related to the theater I have been working on?
Shaz :)

Ed Nelson

03-15-2008, 08:33 PM

Sounds like a great time! I was stationed at Lowery AFB in the mid 80's. We spend the majority of our days at either Breckenridge, Winter Park, or Keystone. It is beautiful out there!

Greg Cook

03-16-2008, 03:21 AM

Wow, sounds like a great time, Shaz...

One time I went skiing on Mt. Daisan, in Tottori Prefecture, Japan. I was stationed at a remote radar site an hour and a half away. There were some old skis for us to use, so I and a friend drove up in the Dodge Power Wagon, dressed like typical American ski patrol "dudes". We played around the "bunny hills" for a bit and then got on the wrong lift that took us to the top...:eek: Well, pride took over, and down the run I went, snowplowing left and then right... Somehow I made it down in one piece. I headed for the lodge, had a few bottles of hot Sake and made like all was cool. Really, I needed something to stop the shaking in my ski boots.... :o I had never skied before...and haven't since!
:rofl::rofl:

Anyway, hmmmmmm. Next cool project...related to the theater you're building.. How about a one of a kind, old fashioned popcorn cart...Shaz style! :thumb: No? :huh:
:rofl::rofl:

Tell us more!

Vaughn McMillan

03-16-2008, 03:29 AM

Man Shaz, when you go skiing, you don't mess around. :rolleyes: Sounds like a great trip. I never made it up to that part of Colorado to ski when I lived in New Mexico. I understand it's great all over that area, though. I did ski at Wolf Creek a few times...I liked it because it wasn't very crowded. Nowadays, I've hung up my ski boots for good. My back can't risk the potential (or should I say inevitable?) fall.

Robert Schaubhut

03-21-2008, 03:18 AM

Sounds like a great time! I was stationed at Lowery AFB in the mid 80's. We spend the majority of our days at either Breckenridge, Winter Park, or Keystone. It is beautiful out there!
Hi Ed :wave:,
Sorry I missed you there. It is beautiful.
S

Wow, sounds like a great time, Shaz...

One time I went skiing on Mt. Daisan, in Tottori Prefecture, Japan. I was stationed at a remote radar site an hour and a half away. There were some old skis for us to use, so I and a friend drove up in the Dodge Power Wagon, dressed like typical American ski patrol "dudes". We played around the "bunny hills" for a bit and then got on the wrong lift that took us to the top...:eek: Well, pride took over, and down the run I went, snowplowing left and then right... Somehow I made it down in one piece. I headed for the lodge, had a few bottles of hot Sake and made like all was cool. Really, I needed something to stop the shaking in my ski boots.... :o I had never skied before...and haven't since!
:rofl::rofl:

Hi Greg :wave:,
That is in itself a great story, except for the fact that you have not tried again. Maybe sometime:dunno::D!!
S

Anyway, hmmmmmm. Next cool project...related to the theater you're building.. How about a one of a kind, old fashioned popcorn cart...Shaz style! :thumb: No? :huh: (No:eek::rofl:...S:D)
:rofl::rofl:

Tell us more!

Man Shaz, when you go skiing, you don't mess around. :rolleyes: Sounds like a great trip. I never made it up to that part of Colorado to ski when I lived in New Mexico. I understand it's great all over that area, though. I did ski at Wolf Creek a few times...I liked it because it wasn't very crowded. ( Hi Vaughn :wave:, Always wanted to ski Wolf Creek due to the accumulation and the lack of people. :rolleyes:. Did you enjoy it much?...S)
Nowadays, I've hung up my ski boots for good. My back can't risk the potential (or should I say inevitable?) fall. (Wisdom can be an ornery boss, yet best listened too!...S )

Well now where were we:huh:... Oh yes, building a Home Theater. As of today I got word that a moving company has been contracted to move the parts up to the third floor on March 27. The painters are done with the primer and the base coat. I have cut all that I can cut as far as pieces for this thing without installing anthing on site yet. Hopefully this thread will help me when it come to installing the puzzle.

Having finished up the cabinets around the screen I needed look to the future as the painters would have those pieces tied up for some time. I needed to do something in the mean time.:dunno: I guess I could start on the other three walls:eek:. I needed to make chair rail all around , base all around and frieze which needs to fit and must be done after the columns/pilasters (pilasters, "American College Dictionary" '64 says...'a square or rectangular pillar, with capital and base, engaged in a wall from which it projects!'. I have 6 pilasters, 5 alike and one modified. The three walls each have a door, 2 innies and 1 outie. at least one innie and an outie need be as obscure as possible. The entry door can look like a door.
Pilasters and chair rail are made and painted as is the base. It has gotten to the point where something needs be installed to give me a point of reference in the 21'x21' room.:doh: Accomodations need to be considered for the tuffted leather below the chair rail and the 1 1/4" soundboard above the chair rail crossing over the doors. All points of concern not completely worked out yet. I get the CAD drawing then have to figure out how to make it fly. So far so good ( maybe cause nothing has been installed yet.)
What pictures would you like to see or what process would you like to see done and explained?:dunno:
Shaz:)
Shaz

Vaughn McMillan

03-21-2008, 04:04 AM

Man, this sounds like it's gonna be one heck of a home theater. I'm guessing this isn't your everyday tract home. ;)
...What pictures would you like to see or what process would you like to see done and explained?:dunno:
Shaz:)
Shaz
Silly question. :p Any or all of it...however much you feel like showing us.

Robert Schaubhut

03-22-2008, 03:46 PM

Man, this sounds like it's gonna be one heck of a home theater. I'm guessing this isn't your everyday tract home. ;)

Silly question. :p Any or all of it...however much you feel like showing us.
Hi Vaughn, :wave:
It is a lovely home and the people have been quite nice so far. I will try to keep you abreast of the progress.

Fortunately these folks like trees and had the occasion to plant some on a day I was there, I called it Arbor Day.
Here you can get a glimpse of the folks digging a little hole for the trees to be planted.

18772

It was a nice day with no rain so the workers could really enjoy the fruit of their labor. I have some things in common with this client. When I buy rocks or lumber, plants or bushes to be planted I haul the stuff by truck. I have an old silverado but it works for me.:D Since these folks don't have the open bed trucks they had to have somebody else use their's to bring in the stuff. In this case their trees were brought in same as I bring in my stuff, by truck.:)

18773

Okay, so their truck is bigger but mine is better on gas! :rolleyes:

When you are moving into a new house, it is nice to have it look a bit lived in so why not have some trees a bit bigger than saplings, if you can afford it.

18774

Ahh, how refreshing to see the correct way to plant a tree. I knew I was doing something wrong at my house.

18775

You are right Vaughn, it is not a track home. :D:rofl:

More later, got to go to work to pay for my track home.:D I give thanks for my home, don't get me wrong. :thumb:

Shaz :)

Ed Nelson

03-23-2008, 12:56 AM

There's a house not too few from me that did the same thing. One day it was nothing but dirt and the next day they had an instant, mature landscape! Must be nice!

Robert Schaubhut

03-23-2008, 08:07 PM

We have three sides of the room left that need wood work. Divide and conquer as Greg always says. Thus we will determine points of reference such as a level line, from which we can determine the descrepancy in the floor and where the wall meets the ceiling.

We need to find out the highest point (along the wall) of the floor and the lowest too.

That determined we will use a full sized base board (4") at the lowest point in the room and trim the rest of the base to get it level. Knowing that I will back cut my base at the bottom on a 45° angle so that I can block plane it easily to fit the flow of the floor.

It will be interrupted by the columns/pilasters space strategically around the room, yet symmetrically. There are 6 columns, 3 on a platform so the are just shorter versions, and 3 on the main theater floor. One column wraps (one side) a short return wall so it is diffferent in it's configuration.

Each one will have a brass/bronze? cast capital. 5 of which will be the same and the one atop the column doing the short return will be modified to deal with the return.

The columns are 10 1/2" wide and are to be 5" off the wall. I have to make consessions for 1 1/4" sound board on all the walls above the chair rail and
the leather below so in actuality the visible column will show 3 3/4" nailed onto a piece of 6mm acoume under a 3/4" ply domestic paint grade birch.

Pictures will help and I will get to that soon. If you don't understand, that's okay maybe in time you will. If you want more information, ask, or go to page 10 in the owners manual.:rofl: Under installation and building of the columns!:rolleyes::rofl::rofl:
Shaz :)

Robert Schaubhut

03-25-2008, 03:25 AM

Considering means of attachment are worthy of consideration when planning your initial design. Thus, my fluted face will be a full 10 1/2" wide x 3/4" thick, nailed through the face into the edges of the sides which will be 3" x 3/4" thick. This will give me the needed 3 3/4" thick column, 10 1/2" wide. The sides will have a slight back cut on the back side to help the column get seated.
The construction was thus, a 9" x 3/4" piece of plywood was ripped for a sub face, a top was ripped to 9"x 3" and nailed to the end of the sub face. They then were glued on the edges and the 3" wide sides of the columns were nailed on. See the preparation pic below.

18833

18834

Once the top has been nailed to the sub face,....... the side to be nailed on should be flushed...... along the outter most edge............. of the outside corner that is created by "the top" and "subface" . This will insure us that a perfect 90° angle has been created and secured. Nailing the rest of the side will follow.

With these sides nailed on we are ready to nail on the face
Let me show you what I made to face the columns as per designer selection.

18837

Here you see 4 grooves, created with the router and a 3/8" mortising bit set to cut about 5/16" deep with approximately 1 13/16"between grooves, the same spacing 1 13/16" will be uncut both at the top and the bottom of the face itself.

# 1 The jig made for this was 8' long about 14" wide 1/4" plywood. I ran a piece of plywood through the jointer to straighten it and then fastened it to the 1/4" ply.

# 2 I then took another piece of 3/4" ply and ran it through the jointer to straighten the edge on it.

# 3 That being done I chose the router for the job and set it down next to the straightedge that was nailed to the 1/4" plywood. (my straight boards were wide enough to have integrity to stay straight while attaching them, therefore I didn't have to use a 6' level or stringline to assure me of straight).

# 4 Sliding my router along the fixed straight edge while keeping the other straight edge snug against the side of the router plate I stapled the second straight edge from the underside to create a true channel the to guide the router without slop. (When I do this I like to mark the position of the router and try not to swivel it around much).

That done I needed to make stops and determine where to put them. Here are a few pictures of the jig.

18838

18839

18840
More later,
Shaz :)

Robert Schaubhut

03-27-2008, 02:21 AM

Let me see if I can tie this all in as tommorrow a moving company is picking up all the painted stuff I have been working on for several months. They will be delivering it to the 3rd floor where this theater goes. I will forget the column building for now along with the other stuff so I can focus on the move. If you want to know how something is done ask me, otherwise i'll just post some photos.
This is where it goes.

18884

18885

18886

18887
The four walls.

This is the view of the doors I need try to make obscure.

18888

18889

Shaz :)

Vaughn McMillan

03-27-2008, 02:37 AM

Robert Schaubhut

03-28-2008, 02:57 AM

I'll bet it's a relief getting the painted stuff out of the way and onto the next phase of the project.

When you say "make the doors obscure", do you mean hide it, or just try to make it blend in style-wise?

Hi Vaughn :wave:,
It is a good feeling getting to move on to phase 2. As far as the doors are concerned, it will be your call when I get them done. I would like them to disappear but that will be difficult considering the applique, therefore let us lean toward making it blend in. :dunno: :rolleyes:
Here are some photos of the day's results. The movers arrive at 9:30 with 4 men and 2 trucks. They finished about 3:00 having delivered it all to the 3rd floor. :thumb:

18941

18942

18943

18944

18945

18946

18947

18948

18949

18950

Two more, next post. S....:)

Robert Schaubhut

03-28-2008, 02:59 AM

And this was where we stopped, 12 bolts later.

18951

18952

Shaz :)

joe blankshain

03-28-2008, 05:22 PM

Congrats on the progress Shaz!!!! It has been a interesting ride to watch this phase start and come to installation. As for the door, blending sounds good to me. Keep us informed

Greg Cook

03-28-2008, 06:04 PM

Shaz... This has really been fun and educational. From paper to popcorn (the unit all ready to be enjoyed by the customer...) WoW. I guess we better get the butter and napkins ready, cause it won't be long now. :thumb:

BTW, it looks a lot bigger than I thought... Awesome project.

You could always hide the doors "ala dungeon" like Stu did...:eek: :rofl::rofl:

Robert Schaubhut

03-28-2008, 11:39 PM

I am glad you guys are on my team! :wave: Thanks.

Today

#2 We took and shimmed the tall boxes, (the ones next to the run of lowers in the center),till they were plumb front to back. (the one on the right had to come out 3/4" at the top, the one on the left was out 3/8").

# 3 We then screwed them tight to the wall after we plumbed them right to left.

# 1 This all occured after we secured the lower 3 center boxes with 3" screws to the wall at 16" on center.

Remember the bolting system we used to affix the lowers to these tall boxes? That was the secret to our success yesterday and such a help today.

18975

We then muscled in the boxes (with the one stile running long), one box for each side. We then secured those boxes, partly to the adjacent box and partly to the wall.

18976

18977

18978

This done we began putting the soffit together with the double 2x6 beam. I plan to attach the beam/soffit to the back side of the frieze and hoist it up onto the speaker cabinets. As of this time there is some concern as to the weight, or actually the lifting of it.:dunno:

18979

18980

18981

We will see,:rolleyes: and it will get up there somehow!

Shaz :)

18982

Robert Schaubhut

04-03-2008, 12:21 PM

Well, since we couldn't build the entire frieze, with soffet and supporting beam in one piece at the shop we had to build it, knock it down and construct it on sight. It may seem too redundent for you but it works out being the most expeditious for me. Hopefully tonight I can show some photos of the progress. I think the completed piece weighs about 225 lbs, is about 16" deep and 13' long. I know 225 doesn't seem too big for and "iron men" but to a wood man!:eek: :dunno::rofl:
Shaz

Chris Mire

04-03-2008, 04:53 PM

looking great shaz. very professional looking installation. sounds like lots of fun.

can't wait to see it completed so i can dream of having one in my home :D

thanks
chris

Ed Nelson

04-04-2008, 12:57 AM

Good to see it coming together. That little beam shouldn't give you any problems!:rolleyes:

Robert Schaubhut

04-04-2008, 01:28 AM

Here are several pics of it being put back together on the horses. The skeleton was in 2 pieces with the long sides being double 3/4" birch domestic plywood with a about a 2' overlap in the center. 1/4" was stapled on as the soffet in 3 pieces, initially leaving out about a 30" center piece, shown here.

19163

That is blurred "Ed" but you can see the long vice grip clamping the sides, glued and ready to be screwed. We left out the center 1/4" soffet part so we could assure ourselves that our soffet fit tight and in alignment when we went to screw it together. Then we merely glued and laid the center 1/4" piece in place and stapled it on.

19164
19165

The 1/4" plywood was flush to the front so we could attach the frieze to that side and flush it up on the bottom, but the back 1/4" part hung out about 3" to allow the double 2x6 glued and screwed, joined and surfaced beam to sit and be hidden in the back.

Then we screwed on the frieze which was about 13'6", 3 layers of 3/4" plywood and the trim, through the double layer of 3/4" used for the soffet skeleton. Wish I had photos but sometimes I forget as photos do not get the job done.:)
It took 3 to get it up, well 3 and 3 helpers :eek::D.

19168

We had it on the saw horses, then we lifted one end to the short ladder and approximated our alignment. A painter, Conrad, steadied the small ladder as we hoisted the opposite end to the 6' ladder. We then swapped ends and lifted the frieze onto the box opposite the 6' ladder as Conrad steadied the ladder. Conrad then held the positioned end as we made the final lift to level the frieze and soffet with the beam.:) Thankfully no one was injured and the results were pleasing.

19171

Ed thought you needed to see the shimming that we did earlier so we reinacted teh shimming of the cabinet, front to back, for your viewing enlightenment.:rofl:

In these pictures Ed is inserting a 3/4" block/spacer between the wall and the cabinet. Earlier we had determined that to be the correct spacing at the top to plumb the face/front edge.

At the bottom the tall box has been attached to the lower unit with pre drilled and installed bolts 1 1/2" X 5/16".

The lowers were screwed to the wall therefore when we shimmed the tall box at the top, the bottom stayed in place.

We put the correct thickness spacer in between the cabinet and whatever studs we could find in the wall behind it and then screwed 3" screws through the back of the cabinet, through the plywood spacer ( I often use plywood spacers as they don't split when screwed through, sometimes causing the a solid wood spacer to split and drop to a place unwanted) into the stud.

19169

19170

Shaz :)

Robert Schaubhut

04-05-2008, 03:00 PM

With the frieze up we needed to add the fixed part of the columns,which ran from decktop to underside of frieze(as I mention this I remember I forgot to secure the decktop from the underside:doh:). Remind me.

This photo from an earlier post shows a lot.

http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=18951&thumb=1&d=1206673130 (http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=18951&d=1206673130)
#1 The unattached deck top :doh:

#2 The tall side box with 2" holes drilled through the side above the deck top. These holes are in alignment with holes in the fixed pillars. The holes will allow me access through those walls with the screw gun to affix the next doublestep of the pillars (to be installed after the screen is put in place.) Confusing to you? :huh:Imagine how things were here figuring it out!:rofl:Then building it, then setting it aside in parts to be painted for about a month, and then refiguring "Were does this go :dunno: and What is that"?:doh:

#3 Trim midway up on the tall box stops shortly after it returns down the side. This is a stop that the pillar will be pulled up against for alignment

#4 An unpainted piece of wood secured behind the black deck top at each end to help position the deck top and to support the fixed column

With this noted we installed the fixed pillars.
19200

19199

This is a look at the frieze on top.

19201
19202
19203
19204

2 photos of the corner cabinets next.

19197
19196

And an over view as we left it Wed. night I believe.

19198
Shaz :)

Ed Nelson

04-05-2008, 03:54 PM

Looks great! Wish I could be there to help you out!!!

Robert Schaubhut

04-07-2008, 02:11 AM

Looks great! Wish I could be there to help you out!!!

Hi Ed :wave:,
Thanks for the offer , you would be a great help, no doubt!

Having the front screen wall set and relaxing it is time to move on to the other 3 walls.:doh:They are interested in having a section done so the metal man and the leather man can get some visual idea of what they will have to deal with. That established, they can move forward with their part.
That means I have to set 2 columns, the base board and the chair rail for those sections.

Greg Cook

04-17-2008, 03:16 PM

What! No progress?:eek:

Sheesh, Shaz, I take off for a week to Japan...come back and nothing is done..:doh:

:rofl::rofl:

What do the other walls look like?

:lurk:

Scott Turner

04-17-2008, 06:44 PM

This is very nice. Will you be selling the plans. I like the design

Vaughn McMillan

04-17-2008, 08:38 PM

I'm playing catch-up on this today, Shaz. The more I look at it, the more I hope the folks who will own this setup will really appreciate the thought, labor, expertise, and brute force it took to make it for them. Great work, my man. :clap:

Robert Schaubhut

04-18-2008, 01:26 AM

What! No progress?:eek:

Sheesh, Shaz, I take off for a week to Japan...come back and nothing is done..:doh:

:rofl::rofl:

What do the other walls look like?

Hi Mister Greg San...:bow: :D Welcome back!!!!!!!! Here are several pics of the plans I worked from.....

19684

19685

The other picture is somewhere else right now.:huh:

It is a challenge, but "that's the way uh huh uh huh We like it, uh huh uh huh! ":rofl:
S

:lurk:
This theater has potential. :)
Shaz

Robert Schaubhut

04-18-2008, 02:40 AM

This is very nice. Will you be selling the plans. I like the design

Hi Scott :wave:,
Thanks for the compliment. As far as selling the plans, the conceptual drawings from the decorator are the only plans there are. The rest is a wing and a prayer on my part. :D

I like the design too. It is basically four walls and a floor plan = 5 sheets of 8 1/2 x 11. As far as buying those, I can ask.:dunno:

It is a handsome design that I am pleased to be working on. I am headed for "the look" of the drawings. Having been given great latitude and respect by the decorator and the owners to do what is right by them, it has been a very good combination thus far, and in my opinion the results are rather nice.
S :)
I'm playing catch-up on this today, Shaz. The more I look at it, the more I hope the folks who will own this setup will really appreciate the thought, labor, expertise, and brute force it took to make it for them. Great work, my man. :clap:
Dear Vaughn, Hi :wave:,
You are always too kind.:o Thank you...

You know the great news was the decorator had a moving company carry all the parts and pieces up to the third floor for us along with 90% of my tools! Whew what a relief!:thumb:

The owners hae been very gracious hosts, having us there in their home. They seem appreciative and patient, seeming to know we are there with their best interest at heart. They have 2 dogs, one I just love.
HE barks at me every time I come in and long after I disappear. He is a retriever with long hair, black with chocolate accents, and such a beautiful voice, deep like Barry White.:rofl: Probably 110 lbs.
I was going to post an update but think now I will passively over look the forum.
Shaz :)
More Later

joe blankshain

04-18-2008, 01:14 PM

As usual Shaz, AMAZING work. Looking more professional than a group of professionals can do, let alone should do. Keep us updated and thanks.

Toni Ciuraneta

04-18-2008, 06:23 PM

Well Shaz... The only thing that I can say is thanks for sharing all this with us.

Looking at your job, I can see how much I have to learn, practise and assume still.

I feel privileged when I look at your works and at the works of other fellow woodworkers of this forum.

Keep on sharing and thanks again:thumb:

Robert Schaubhut

04-21-2008, 01:14 AM

As usual Shaz, AMAZING work. Looking more professional than a group of professionals can do, let alone should do. Keep us updated and thanks.

Hi Joe :wave:,
Thanks for adding your much appreciated input.:thumb:
:)S

Well Shaz... The only thing that I can say is thanks for sharing all this with us.

Looking at your job, I can see how much I have to learn, practise and assume still.

I feel privileged when I look at your works and at the works of other fellow woodworkers of this forum.

Toni Toni Toni!!!:D:wave:Hi and thanks, Many of us feel the same way when we see the expert drawings you do, come to life. We are all blessed with a place to visit, each bringing something different with them. My only regret is that more people don't join in the projects with comments and questions.
:dunno: ...:)S

Keep on sharing and thanks again:thumb:

Decided to start on the wall right of the screen.

Needing to build up a contained space above the chair rail for the 1 1/4" sound board was the determining factor for the whole room. Above the chair rail and below the frieze, from column to column the space will be filled with 1 1/4" sound board. I therefore will use 1/2" under 3/4" plywood to build up my foundation.

Starting with a level line at the bottom of the chair rail was my point of origin for the horizontal. That determined I could work the "up above the chair rail" all around the room with one length spacer from the top of the chair rail to the underside of the frieze, thus allowing me to make all of my vertical panels (fitting into that space) the exact same height. :thumb:

Also, ( Don't worry if all these ideas don't work just yet, stick with if and hopefully it will as we proceed) one length spacer from the bottom of the chair rail to the top of the baseboard ( thus allowing the metal fabricator a standard "vertical" for the metal grill work below). No way do we want to set ourselves up for different size vertical panels. :doh:

This is the time to look to the future of the job and prepare the foundation so as to make it all work later. The fu fu that goes on and looks so good is the easiest part if infact you have prepared your underlayment wisely.

1/2" went on first then the 3/4" over that, not mirroring the 1/2" exactly however.

Here is a photo of the starting point, the wall to the right of the screen.

19759

Here is a photo if Ed nailing on the 1/2" piece that has constuction adhesive in the back side for the frieze. You can notice, at the inside corner the 3/4" piece has been nailed on over the 1/2" piece, with 2"x2" notches cut into it. The 1/2" does not have those specific notches. The notches are there to allow my horizontal 3/4" overlay to span the 2 pieces of 1/2" at each joint and thus help with the flatness, on the surface, where the horizontal 3/4" joins the column 3/4". At the critical point of their joining, both 3/4" piece are attached on the same piece of 1/2" plywood. Clear as MUDD??? :huh::rofl::rofl::rofl: Don't worry, it is under control!:rolleyes::doh::rofl:

19760

#1 We set our vertical corner piece first on the sheet rock, creating an inside corner with the cabinet,
#2 then we set the 1/2" column backing exactly the same distance from the vertical corner piece at the chair rail as it was at the frieze.
#3 We square cut to fit the 1/2" horizontal piece and lined it up on the bottom of the chair rail line and secured nailed it.
#4 We then could cut the 1/2" frieze backer to exactly the same length as the chair rail 1/2" piece, thus creating a rectangle. I like rectangles much more than parallelograms.:rolleyes:
Shaz

Ed Nelson

04-21-2008, 02:11 AM

Can you explain the sound board? Is it for resonance?

Robert Schaubhut

04-21-2008, 02:43 AM

Can you explain the sound board? Is it for resonance?

Hi Ed :wave:,
As I understand it, from a purely novice position Ed, it helps to absorb sound rather than letting it bounce from surface to surface, wall to wall. Maybe some of our audiophiles will chime in if they even read this thread.:dunno: I would like to understand it better myself!:thumb: Once more, we do have that chance of learning together, if in fact we can "GET SOME HELP HERE!:rofl::rofl:.
Shaz :)

Robert Schaubhut

04-26-2008, 12:41 PM

Just prior to this part of the install,we noticed the wall had been floated with sheetrock mud at the top where the wall meets the ceiling. We needed to assure ourselves of a straight wall, thus all along the top we sanded and scraped, with a belt sander( 60 grit) and wonder bar, to get rid of the build up. It was a real mess and dusty. Had we noticed the smoke detector before we started:doh:, it would have saved the fire department a trip!
Some photos of the sheetrock scraping results ar shown below.
19924
19925
19926
19927

Having done that we needed a destination for our chair rail and base and frieze. I long ago realized you need to contain your space and fill in between, so we decided to set the entry door column.

19928
19929
In reality the things I am calling columns are correctly termed "pilasters",
a square or rectangular pillar, with capital and base, engaged in a wall, from which it projects. American College Dictionary 1964

Robert Schaubhut

04-26-2008, 01:32 PM

To complete the installation of that column and the wall in between a few minor adjustments needed made.

#1 A co-ax cable with phone jacks needed to go to the closet on the other side of the wall. The decorator wanted no outlets above the baseboard as they would interfere with the metal and the leather. Fortunately we have enough room in the baseboard to house the electrical outlets and the cover plate. These were needed and could not be eliminated

#2 The column needed scribing to seat itself correctly on the ladder form we had created for each column individually. These ladder forms were 3/4" birch ply. They get installed over top of the 1/2" ply. The 1/2" plywood is the first ply laid on over the sheetrock.

The coax... Since there was a cabinet on the other side I decided to try to go through sheetrock rather than cabinet wall and sheetrock.
19930
19931
19932

The column...
Scribing done on the column the blockplane comes into play. Ahead of time, when building the columns I back cut on a 20° angle the inside edges of the column walls for this very moment, thankfully.
19933

As you can see in the background, the ladder form is set. (I call this a ladder form for lack of a better term)
19934

Here we have the column set and the connecting strips of 1/2" ply in place.
19935
19936

Robert Schaubhut

04-27-2008, 03:00 AM

Since the columns are mounted on the 3/4" ladder forms, all that needed to occur between them was to...

#1 mount 3/4" strips on top of the 1/2" plywood horizontal connecting strips at the chair rail and the frieze levels. However for the base which was a 3/4" thick baseboard 4" tall at least around the part of the room not elevated with a platform 8 1/4" tall, I needed 1/2"+3/4''+3/4" more behind the 3/4" base board, which in some places needed electrical outlets. :dunno:
Hard to understand? Hard to figure out too.:o Hopefully some of this will be understandable, maybe more through the pictures.
I will search for or take photos to better explain what I just said.
Shaz:)

Robert Schaubhut

04-27-2008, 04:34 PM

Let me start out in the corner, the inside corner where the screen wall cabinets meet the wall to the right. You can faintly see the electrical box in the base.

19968

That corner was all connected horizontally first and then the second section became the focus. That curved piece of 1/4" plywood is my story board for the vertical "to scale" dimensions of the wall embellishments, the panels the columns the base, chair and frieze etc. It is my road map, my "graphic computer like program to follow" for things to work correctly". I realized it yesterday when I visited a friend who built a robot machine that will weld 2 sides of 1" pipe to a plate,simultaneously and repetitvely. It inserts pipe, inserts tab, seats the pieces, welds the pieces, releases the piece, arm picks up piece turns and drops piece onto slide out shoot, squirts air on work space and repeats. He printed out his program onto paper and taped them all together so he could see the whole program not just monitor sized snippets. That what my story board/pole is to me, a non computer program of what need to occur for all to work correctly.

19969

In the second section you can see where the elctrical box is also in the base area. The sheet rock holes will be covered. Below are 2 pic of the electrical box set into the base board. The pic from the back shows the flip out wings that will hold it securely in place. The frontal view shows just enough tolerance for a cover plate on the flat surface.

19974
19975

And here you see the baseboard piece in place, installed. Hopefully you can count the 4 layers, the 1/2" ply against the wall, 3/4" over that, 3/4" over that layer and then the 3/4" base. The first 3 layers were cut out larger, as they would be covered and to allow the wings of the electrical box to turn out on the back side of the baseboard after the box was pushed into the hole in the baseboard.

19976

We can now see the completed first section except for the frieze.

19970
19971
19972
19973

Robert Schaubhut

04-27-2008, 10:07 PM

Okay so here we are with the first 2 columns set and the chair rail applied either side of the first column.
19988

Here you can visualize the capital placement and see the connection in the picture below, however good or bad, used for the frieze backing,
19989

and then a picture from back a bit of the wall itself in it's current state.
19990

This is a picture of the attic door that needs become obscure.
19991
Shaz:)

Al killian

04-28-2008, 12:24 AM

From what I have been told(or as I remember) you are correct that the board asorbs the sound waves and helps the echo effect from normal rooms.

Robert Schaubhut

04-28-2008, 12:35 AM

The next move I made was toward the projector wall and obscure door. It is a door that opened out so I decided to build up the face of the door to flush on the theater side. Since it opened out I figured it will be easier to handle than the attic door which opens in.
Anyway, lets get it on. Planning needed to be made to hide as many parts of the original door crack as possible, at least that is what I think and I am in charge.:D
Deciding where to put the column was the most important decision.
Here is the wall plan.
19992

I needed to remove the curved corner at the jamb so I cut the sheet rock.
19995

Ed then took off the sheetrock and curved corners.
19993

And this was the result of the removal.
19994

With the column measurement made for the projector door column, the other column symmetrically placed on the other end of that wall could be set.
19997
19998

Then we were prepared to do the column near the door. We show here that we have the 1/2" backer set and the ladder form secured too.
19996
Shaz :)

Greg Cook

04-28-2008, 03:37 AM

It was a real mess and dusty. Had we noticed the smoke detector before we started, it would have saved the fire department a trip!

:doh: :o

:rofl:

Having done that we needed a destination for our chair rail and base and frieze. I long ago realized you need to contain your space and fill in between, so we decided to set the entry door column. (reminder to copy into my "Wisdom from Shaz" journal.... :thumb:)

Looks like you/they took off one layer of sheet rock/plaster...from the edge that comes down from the ceiling about an inch or two...??

20004

You did turn the breaker off on the circuit, right? :eek:

Greg Cook

04-28-2008, 03:45 AM

Hmmmmm... The Old Master contemplates his curls... "Are they supposed to be going clockwise, or counter clockwise....:huh:"

20005

:D

Greg Cook

04-28-2008, 04:00 AM

This is a picture of the attic door that needs become obscure.
20006
Shaz:)

Ah, the Shaz does a "secret door" trick....:thumb:

This should be interesting...I better get a bigger notebook...:lurk:

Robert Schaubhut

04-29-2008, 01:52 PM

Looks like you/they took off one layer of sheet rock/plaster...from the edge that comes down from the ceiling about an inch or two...?? The builder had that built up with sheetrock mud to taper to the ceiling, couldn't block plane enough wood to compensate so we went for flat with the sander, what a mess.:doh: S
Hmmmmm... The Old Master contemplates his curls... "Are they supposed to be going clockwise, or counter clockwise....:huh:"
Very clever, think now, northern hemisphere goes _ _ _ _ ______:rofl:.
Where did you ever get that "Old" and especially where did you get that "Master" stuff? :doh: You have been watching Norm too long with all his "Master" people.:eek: But thanks..:o S

Glad you are enjoying your read here Greg.

Shaz :)

allen levine

04-29-2008, 11:12 PM

robert, what is the time frame from designing, to building, installing and finishing a project of this size? (if I can ask)

glenn bradley

04-29-2008, 11:56 PM

That is very cool how you are going to maneuver the screen into place. Love the posts.

Robert Schaubhut

04-30-2008, 02:52 AM

From what I have been told(or as I remember) you are correct that the board asorbs the sound waves and helps the echo effect from normal rooms.

Hi Al :wave:,
Thanks for the input on the sound board and it's purpose.
S :)

robert, what is the time frame from designing, to building, installing and finishing a project of this size? (if I can ask)

Hi Allen :wave:,
I got involved after the decorators designed the theater. I don't know how much time they had in it but the computer is involved and their design has evolved. Mid December was the beginning of my involvement.

From their pictures of "The Look" they wanted it was thankfully left to me to design the peculiarities and make it work. With issues that I feel have design merit, out of due respect I consult the designers for their preference. Time fell out of wack when I had to keep building stuff before anything was installed, due to the vast majority of painting to be done off site.
As of tonight I probably have 4 weeks more work BUT not all in a row. :doh:

Kindly the home owner said "Do it right, it will last a lifetime, but try not to take that long!":D
S :)

That is very cool how you are going to maneuver the screen into place. Love the posts.

Hi Glenn :wave:,
The screen is I think 150"x 67" with top and bottom 3" hidden by my cabinet and the frieze, 6" each side will be covered by removable pillars that are not in place as of yet. They will set the bottom of the screen in first then tilt the screen back to the wall then bench press it up behind the frieze and we will slide the supports in under it. Sometimes they pay me from the neck up!.
Then the side pillars will be set in place.
S :)
It will work, I hope I hope I hope.:rofl:

Back to the door at the projector.
It poses a number of problems, all of which will somehow be solved this time next year, for better or worse, and hopefully sooner and better.

We set the 1/2" and the ladder form to cover a certain amount of the door opening itself on the hinge side. Basically it is to aid in the hiding.

Here you see the back of the column next to the ladder form. The ribs of the column are to keep the column spread to the right width and the "rungs" of the ladder form (same width as the ribs) afford me something to nail into after the column is seated against the ladder form. The inside edges of the column walls are tablesaw beveled and the rungs of the ladder form have had their approach corners block planed on the tips to add ease to installation.
20096

Here you see Ed with the column during a dry fit.
20097

Knowing that it will in fact work, we remove the column, mark the position of the rungs (for nailing) then begin our final approach.
20098
20099
20100

With the column aligned we are ready to seal the deal.
Final alignment, that's a rodger. (A take off on Vaughn's trip by corporate jet to Los Wages:-)
20101

Add tender loving touch so as to not damage anything but to make it go on snuggly.
20102

And one last action photo.
20103

The shims you see in the last action photo are set between the 1/2" and the ladder form because the walls were wavy and the ladder form needed to be straight for the columns to seat themselves without need for scribing.
More about the door later.
Shaz :)

allen levine

04-30-2008, 03:54 AM

How come I cant get any of my tools to do work like this?

I dont want to "fluff" you, you know how talented you are.
But for a layman like me that is enjoying woodworking at my level, watching this come to fruition is as interesting as the project itself.
Seeing the behind the scenes stuff is fantastic.

joe blankshain

04-30-2008, 12:51 PM

Shaz,

Still out here, still watching/learning, still amazed. Keep up the great work.

Robert Schaubhut

05-02-2008, 02:31 AM

How come I cant get any of my tools to do work like this? It will come to you, as a gift, maybe bits at a time maybe pieces, doing the things you enjoy. Be patient Allen. :thumb:

I dont want to "fluff" you, you know how talented you are. Thank you. May I say my given gift feels like it is design, and building things, but as for the tools, using them is the way for me to accomplish my designs. Working the tools is a skill most folks can master, I have had 30 years and still trying..:D
But for a layman like me that is enjoying woodworking at my level, (this statement is the heart of this forum...:thumb:) watching this come to fruition is as interesting as the project itself.
Seeing the behind the scenes stuff is fantastic.
Hi Allen :wave:,
Glad you are enjoying the everyday stuff. That is what it is, every day stuff. Divide and conquer. If the job looks too big, break it into bite sized pieces and then do what you can.
Shaz:)

Shaz,

Still out here, still watching/learning, still amazed. Keep up the great work.
Hi Joe :wave:, Thanks for the support.
Shaz :)

So much to consider. I do it because that is what I do, and I like it.

The open out/projector door works well. Now the entry door, just needs trim, then the attic door with the wide swing butt hinges. Couldn't find what I needed so I will have to improvise.:dunno:
Shaz :)

Ed Nelson

05-02-2008, 01:06 PM

Looks great Shaz! I'm enjoying following along. You may have answered this and I forgot or missed it. They are putting a flat screen TV in the theater, right? Why is there a projector?

http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19992

Robert Schaubhut

05-03-2008, 02:02 PM

Hi Ed :wave:,
I can understand your confusion. My fault and I think it is because I use the term "flat screen" in different context during my different threads.

In most cases my use of the term "flat screen" refers to a new flat panel TV like a plasma to be hung on the wall.

In a home theater I inadvertently and without thinking have refered to this projection screen as the flat screen. In this case, in the home theater, the flat screen is just that, a hugh flat screen onto which the image will be projected from across the room. I have seen the projector and it is highest tech.
Oh and by the way, the drawing you picture here is the wall I am finishing up very soon. Maybe Monday.:thumb:

Ed Nelson

05-03-2008, 08:46 PM

Gotcha!:thumb:

Robert Schaubhut

05-04-2008, 03:10 AM

The door to the projection room opens in. The photo below shows the door with the 3/4" plywood, left and top of the door opening, that is relatively close to flush with the sheetrock face. Notice the base of the door is hidden by the platform in front of it. Also part of the ladder form covers part of the door, and on the left side the 3/4" plywood encroaches on the opening of the door itself.
20183

Why the 3/4" plywood?
I'll explain.

The face of the door is about 5 1/8" back from the face of the sheetrock.

I will be adding about 2 3/4" built on the front of that surface. (5 1/8" + 2 3/4" =) Total 7 7/8" plus or minus ( All added to the face of the existing door) needs to go back into the projector room,

yet when the door is closed it needs look like the wall.

I needed to plan for some serious back cutting on the pieces I added to the door,

and room to clear the greatest hypotenuse, in other words, that distance from the center of the butt hinge to the outtermost point of the chairrail attached to the door. sequential (i hope) pictures to follow.

A prototype needed built that would first get me out close to flush (5") with the sheetrock surface, being mounted on the door that would open in.
20184
20185
20186
20187

Then I needed to make sure and shim the prototype out to flush with the sheetrock face which is also the back side of the ladder form.
20189
20190
20191
20192

In order to flush the prototype on the side opposite the ladderform, I mounted the 3/4" plywood, and screwed stop blocks on that to allow me some indication of how far out to shim my prototype.
20188

Shaz :)

Vaughn McMillan

05-04-2008, 06:23 AM

To somewhat echo Allen's comments...I'm not to the point skill-wise to take on a project like this one (yet), but it sure is fun watching someone who is.

Thanks for taking the time to document the process, Shaz. :thumb: :clap:

Robert Schaubhut

05-04-2008, 01:50 PM

To somewhat echo Allen's comments...I'm not to the point skill-wise to take on a project like this one (yet), (I believe in you and Allen and the others that realize maybe not now, but in seeing it evolve, understand that it is something that you CAN do! By breaking this project down into smaller pieces (divide and conquer), my attempt is to show that the big picture is created by one like yourself, with no magic, just step by step labor and use of proper tools. The planning out how to make it work is the major obstacle, but thankfully, with what seems like divine intervention, the answers have arrived at the very right time. S :) ) but it sure is fun watching someone who is.

Thanks for taking the time to document the process, Shaz. :thumb: :clap:
Hi Vaughn :wave:,
You are quite welcome. It is just part of the sharing.
Shaz :)

Robert Schaubhut

05-04-2008, 02:40 PM

The 5" prototype filler was built and attached so as to clear the top of the platform as the door closed. It was about 3" above the platform deck top. Once I got the prototype to fit, I took it back to the shop and unscrewed the top layer of 3/4" plwood strips, and cut a full piece to cover the prototype with 2 modifications.

#1 bevel the edge opposite the hinge side about 20°.
I also took the 3/4" plywood piece that butted up to the door and back cut it at about 20° and
#2 add 2 1/2" below the prototype to allowme the chance to scribe for the threshold.
20197
20198
20199
20200

Since the handle will no longer be accessible I added a bullet catch about the height of the chairrail.
20195
20196

The chair rail needed to be level all the way around the room.

Since we are supposed to be adding leather and metal below the chair rail, it is important that I create easy to fill spaces with 90° corners. That means that with the chair rail level, I need use a spacer stick (a stick cut to length for my repetitive use..) from the underside to the base in order to keep that space uniform during my building.

The platform was 3/4" out of level over 16' but my base needed to be level. Since they want to mount the metal on the door also, I needed to figure a way to have a threshold that was fixed yet allow for the metal to be mounted to the door and have a continuous look.

I decide on 2 pieces of 3/4" poplar stacked with a 1/4" spacer between them but left out at the door. Affix the bottom piece to the platform and the top piece to the door so that the metal could sit on that.

First though we needed a chair rail from which to space all other things. That takes backing it first with the 1/2" and 3/4" for the chair and the frieze. The third photo down shows the beginning of the cut in hand pull to close the door,under the chair rail.
20201
20202
20203

In the photo below you see some tacked on strips holding up the horizontal backing for the chair rail. Sometimes it is easy to nail on these strips with their top set at the chalk line, rather than try to look up under the board to see if it is on the line while trying to nail.
20204

Robert Schaubhut

05-04-2008, 10:11 PM

These things done it was time to add the chair rail.
20212
20213
20214
20216
20217
20218

And then a way to grab hold of the door and close it tight is conceived.
20219
20220

Robert Schaubhut

05-16-2008, 12:27 AM

The chair rail was added and then a threshold. The platform was about 3/4" out of level so we needed to level the base plate to accomodate the leather and metal below the chair rail, hoping the carpet would cover the framers error. At the door we needed some configuration to "look like a continuation of the base plate".
I decided the base on the platform needed to be 3 layers, rather than the 4" base used elsewhere as we would lose too much visual impact area needed for the metal and leather. Bottom layer would member to the threshold with the same thickness as the bottom layer.
The 1/4" spacer was used between layers except where the door was, capped off with a 3/4" x 2 3/8" top piece.
I milled the 2 3/4" x 13/16" base plate, the 1/4" x 2" spacer and the 2 3/8" x 3/4" top plate first. Then I cut a threshold.
20485

20486

20487

20488

20489

20490

20491

20492

Cutting it was important but it needed to be set so that the bottom of that piece could be the same distance from the chair rail as all the other pieces, in other words, I needed to find the place on the platform with the least amount of space to the underside of the Chair rail and use that measurement as my standard. All other places would need shimmed up.

Robert Schaubhut

05-16-2008, 12:46 AM

At the place of the smallest vertical distance from the platform (the highest point on the platform)to the underside of the chair rail I set a small block of wood simulating the first run of the base plate. The 2 3/4" x 13/16" piece. I then cut to fit, (just a snug fit) a spacer (about 18" tall) that would be used to determine the same spacing all around the platform. I cut shims that were 2 3/4" x different thicknesses.
I cut my base plate to fit, then drilled holes with the countersink bit and a wee bit larger than the neck of a 3" screw in the middle. That allowed me to screw through the hole into the platform and then regulate the height of that piece by adding spacers under the board near the screw by either backing the screw out a bit and adding shims then screw the screw in snug or by taking out some shims and screw the screw in farther. This is done to mirror the level line previously established by the level chair rail. Usisng the spacer between the chair rail and the base plate I could raise or lower the base piece to a very consistent distant apart.

Robert Schaubhut

05-16-2008, 01:00 PM

Since the threshold was not the highest point on the platform I had to shim that up also. With the spacer stick it was much easier.
The method sounds simple...shim the threshold to the stick and it will be level.:rolleyes:
Can't do that.
Why?
Door won't close to get a measurement from the chair rail due to the 5" mass I screwed to the front of the door.
Therefore, I needed to cut an extra piece of baseplate, same thickness as the thereshold and shim that, first, with the door closed, as a first step in determining where I needed to cut off the face of my plant on front. http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20201&thumb=1&d=1209911980 (http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20201&d=1209911980)

Add then the 1/4" piece that would be the middle run, then I needed to add the thickness of the piece that was to be attached to the bottom of the door.
This is the piece for the door bottom.
20516
The left side that you can see will go under the door and be screwed in from the underside to the door bottom. Then too I will be able to screw into the door through the edge of this piece also.

These 2 pics show the look of the base plate, the 1/4" spacer, and the top run in an inside corner.
20517
20518

Where the door is,
#1 The top run will be affixed to the door and swing open as part of the door.
#2 The 1/4" piece will not be there, it will be void allowing the door clearance, for opening and closing.
#3 The base plate will be the threshold.

20519
This is a picture of the top run and the piece to go under the door.

As you can see, the mahogany piece flushes with the top run (poplar).
20520

Robert Schaubhut

05-16-2008, 01:14 PM

With all these measurements (thicknesses) determined I could now scribe the door projection and cut it.
20521

20522

20523

Remember we have the shim thickness, the base plate the 1/4" spacer and the thickness of that piece that will go under (and get attached to) the door to determine our cut line.

Robert Schaubhut

05-17-2008, 01:09 PM

Once the line is scribed on the door, it needs be cut.
20550

Then the attachment of the door bottom occurs.
20551
20552
20553
20554

This done and the door rehung on the hinges we could set the threshold and the base plate which joins it at the lowest level, after shimming it all up.
20555

Shaz:)

Robert Schaubhut

05-18-2008, 04:25 PM

Once the line is scribed on the door, it needs be cut.

Then the attachment of the door bottom occurs.

This done and the door rehung on the hinges we could set the threshold and the base plate which joins atthe lowest level, after shimming it all up.

Shaz:)[/quote]
Remember the base for this area (the platform) is a stacked base.
#1 the shims (to bring first run of base to level)
#2 the base plate
#3 the 1/4" spacer (creates a reveal or recess between the base plate and the top run)
#4 the top run
The threshold was a continuation of the base plate, visible here.

20605

The 1/4" board is gone from under the door. It is that space needed for the door to open and close. It (the 1/4" piece) will be applied every where else except under the door.
20600
20601
20602
20604
20606

When looking at the attached thumbnail you can see several interesting things.
#1 the variance of shims over a short distance
#2 the 1/4" gap above the threshold and below the door bottom
#3 the horizontal screws holding on the door bottom
#4 the ending of the 1/4" spacer before it goes under the door
#5 the contiuation of the top run, clearly visible where the mahogany door bottom meets the blonde poplar to it's left and
#6 the edge of a jig I made to set the top run the correct distance back from the 1/4" piece.
The bottom plate was set to a line determined by a specified point from column to column.
The 1/4" spacer was set and nailed after using a combination square on the base plate for determining the correct placement. Then the top run could be set correctly using the
block of light brown cedar with a 1/4" piece nailed to it. I could then cut my top run to length and set it on the 1/4" spacer and move it in or out from the wall to the jig for proper alignment.
If this sounds confusing, don't worry. Study the picture. It may help.:dunno:
:)

Robert Schaubhut

05-19-2008, 12:43 PM

Here is a close up of the jig I made to align the top piece of the base.
You see the brown block as being the piece I hold and the thinner blonde wood (poplar) is nailed onto the edge of that. The poplar is a 1/4" piece, same as the spacer I used to seperate the bottom from the top run.
20657

And here is a photo of an un used piece of the spacer.
20658

In this photo below, the jig is set in place, the 1/4'' already nailed down spacer is flush to the thickness of the 1/4" of the jig.
20664

The jig shows the correct position of the 1/4" that is nailed down.
How so?
#1 The 1/4" of the jig is tight up against the 1/4" that is nailed down
#2 The side of the jig that the 1/4" is nailed to is tight up against the face of the mahogany piece being used on the door bottom. This positioning will assure me that the top run will be sticking out from the wall far enough to coincide with the door bottom.

Here are photos of the platform base.
20661
20662

And if you look more closely here, you see the small facial trim used to cover the shims at the platform level.
20663

If my explanation is not understandable let me know. :dunno:

Ed Nelson

05-20-2008, 01:03 AM

Cool job on that door! Took a little head scratching to figure out what you were doing, but you did it well!

Robert Schaubhut

05-20-2008, 03:08 AM

Took a little head scratching to figure out what you were doing, but you did it well!
Hi Ed :wave:,
Thanks, it took some head scratchin' for me to figure it out, it does seem to be working rather well though.
The removal of the sheet rock on the left of the door allowed me to plant on a piece of plywood that extended into the door opening. That was necessary. The additional thickness I added to the door was 5" to get to flush, 1 1/4" for the soundboard, and 1 1/2" for the chairrail. Total = 7 3/4" plus or minus a shim.
20673

Adding the plywood that extended into the door opening on the left allowed me needed space behind that plywood, to miss hitting the existing original jamb when opening such a thick door on the original hinges.
20674

It is determining a radius from the center of the hinge pin to the jamb and then not letting any part of the additional add-on (to the door) be a greater distance from the hinge pin. I am sure that muddies the water!:rofl::rofl:
Oh well, it is done, the door that opens out.
Now on to the door that opens in.:doh:
The attic door, the 1 3/4" exterior, raised panel, weatherstripped door, that is SOOO out of plumb:eek:, is next, I think.
Shaz :)

Vaughn McMillan

05-20-2008, 05:18 AM

Man, you sure are clever, Mr. Shaz. I've been curious how this door would be handled, and I like your solution. The next one doesn't sound like fun.

Thanks for taking us along for the ride. :thumb:

Robert Schaubhut

05-21-2008, 12:55 PM

Hi Vaughn :wave:,
It is very kind of you to share your approval and your compliments. I feel fortunate that you have enjoyed things here so far.

Below are some other photos I took yesterday that may be of help in understanding the configuration of the door that opens out into the room with the projector and other components.

20691

20692

20693

20694

20695

20696

20697

Robert Schaubhut

05-24-2008, 01:25 PM

The entry door was not so simple but it turned out well. Some on that later.

Some of these photos were taken in the beginning, in the empty room. Since then much has occured and the photos shown here will not reflect that change, sorry.
The attic door opens into the screen room.
20784

This is the wall showing the placement of the door and here is the door itself.
20783

It differs from the projection room door which opened out.
20785

The new situation was this.
#1 1 3/4" exterior,
#2 paneled door,
#3 weatherstripped,
#4 out of plumb, and the
#5 jamb set back 3/4" plus or minus 3/16" from the face of the sheet rock which had
#6 rounded corners.:doh:
20786
20787
20788
20789

Ed Nelson

05-24-2008, 01:55 PM

They didn't make it easy for you did they?

Robert Schaubhut

05-25-2008, 01:20 AM

Hi Ed :wave:,
You love a challenge, it is something you would like. Not easy but not insurrmountable either.

This thread has been shaped by the "sequence" of the buildiing process.
I have been building several days ahead of my posting due to the fact that I build faster than my energy for posting. By posting in sequence all you can do is imagine where we are headed and try to understand the heiroglyphics known to me as explanation of work completed. Thankfully it has been brought to my attention by "Greg :thumb:" that some of you may not know where in the heck we are and where in the heck we are going.:huh:
I figured,:rolleyes: I'm driving, just sit back and don't be to concerned, just look at the pretty pictures. We will get there.

Let's take a new approach.

20804

20805

This is the room in which I am and have been working. It is located on the third floor with a powder room, attic, projection room, elevator and stair landing, and wet bar. All of these areas are outside the screen room (as I call it). The entry door will not have chair rail but the projector door will as has been seen in previous postings. The door to the attic will also have the chair rail. These two doors with the chair rail will also (as I understand) have metal and leather below the chair rail and soundboard above the chair rail. You have seen the work on the projector room door, I will now show you my process for doing the door that opens to access the attic....As soon as I can resize some photos.

Robert Schaubhut

05-25-2008, 01:49 AM

This is where we are going.
20826

This is the visual location of the attic door, just to the left of the cabinets on a perpendicular wall.
20827

This door opens into the screen room. It is supposed to get soundboard above the chair rail, and metal and leather below the chair rail.
What makes a door visible on a wall? Another question, same thought, what would help it become less obvious?

Greg Cook

05-25-2008, 04:05 AM

Aahh, now I got it! :rolleyes: :rofl::rofl:

Thanks for putting it in perspective. So the whole theater and adjoining rooms are in the attic of the house, and the "in opening" door you are going to show us what you did to just opens up into the remaining "attic" space?

Will there be insulation between the door and the sound board? Do you have a pic of that sound board so we can see what you are up against in building the "framing" on both the doors?

With the other door opening "out" and this door opening "in", did you have to "re-invent" the work to fit the opposite opening, or could you have changed the door to open out and use the same jigs/design?

I notice the door handle is still there, unlike the cool latch and built-in handle on the other door. Will this be the final design, or am I getting too far ahead?

Robert Schaubhut

05-25-2008, 03:32 PM

Looking at the below mentioned items you may ask yourself "what relevance do these things have on the build out?"

The new situation was this.
#1 1 3/4" exterior, (solid not hollow, heavy)
#2 paneled door, (certain places will need 3/4" filler for the sound board, not too much though, due to the weight. The door to the projector room was extremely heavy and it was an interior door, 1 3/8" thick)
#3 weatherstripped, (my modifications will need be weatherstripped when I am done)
#4 out of plumb, and the (It needed to be plumb "as goes the door, so goes the column,panel etc." Out of plumb parallel lines are out of plumb:rolleyes:.)
#5 jamb set back 3/4" plus or minus 3/16" from the face of the sheet rock which had (Do I move the jamb and door up flush to the sheetrock?)
#6 rounded corners.:doh:You saw on the door to the projector room pics where the rounded corners were taken off and plywood was used to create the new door opening, copy and pasted below

I needed to remove the curved corner at the jamb so I cut the sheet rock.
http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19995&thumb=1&d=1209342378 (http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19995&d=1209342378)

Ed then took off the sheetrock and curved corners.
http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19993&thumb=1&d=1209342378 (http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19993&d=1209342378)

And this was the result of the removal at the projection room door.
http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19994&thumb=1&d=1209342378 (http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19994&d=1209342378)

Aahh, now I got it! :rolleyes: :rofl::rofl:
Hi Greg :wave:, Double Aahh:eek:...21 pages and 4 months later:doh:..No wonder my "books don't sell! :rofl::rofl::rofl:No one knows what I'm doing, even when it's done.":doh::type: Oh well, I have seen an improvement in my typing.:o S :rofl:

Thanks for putting it in perspective. So the whole theater and adjoining rooms are in the attic of the house, and the "in opening" door you are going to show us opens up into the remaining "attic" space? "That is correct.:)"

Will there be insulation between the door and the sound board? "since this is an exterior door it will have no need for insulation from the heat or cold." Do you have a pic of that sound board so we can see what you are up against in building the "framing" on both the doors?
I had several pictures posted here but came to realize I was infringing on private property, thus you will have to wait til later til I can post some of my own work.
With the other door opening "out" and this door opening "in", did you have to "re-invent" the work to fit the opposite opening, (yes, completely different animal) or could you have changed the door to open out and use the same jigs/design? (Good thinking! This was considered however there was a roof rafter in the way of opening the door into the attic.)

This is a photo a bit out of sequence, with the sheetrock removed and me trying to dry fit the new hinge part of the jamb. See the AC duct work and the roof rafters that were in the way.
20842

I notice the door handle is still there, unlike the cool latch and built-in handle on the other door. Will this be the final design, or am I getting too far ahead? (You are asking questions that are all relative. Thanks for relaying your interest. The handle will get an extension on it to bring it out beyond the soundboard. I needed to save use of the handle, the tongue and the strike plate as this is an accessible attic for AC and water heater. The bullet catch used on the other door was not considered reliable enough for this door application.)

Here is a view of the attic space with the door plumbed, another out of sequence photo.:)20843

Robert Schaubhut

05-26-2008, 01:19 PM

This door opens into the screen room. It is supposed to get soundboard above the chair rail, and metal and leather below the chair rail.
What makes a door visible on a wall? Another question, same thought, what would help it become less obvious?

I thought early in the project that making a door less visible would occur by making the door less visible. Redundant I realize but nevertheless true. What makes a door look like a door? Ideas? :dunno::D

allen levine

05-26-2008, 07:52 PM

What makes a door look like a door? Ideas? :dunno::D

if there was a neon orange sign that said exit, thered be no mistaking it for a door. (or a sign that says Women or Men, usually a door)

Greg Cook

05-26-2008, 09:51 PM

What makes a door look like a door? Ideas?

Door handle
Visible hinges
Visible. continuous, separation of surfaces around a wall area.
Door stop on baseboard
Kickplate on lower portion
Small dirty or worn carpet or mar marks on flooring next to "wall"
"Welcome" floor mat next to section of "wall"
:thumb:

:rofl::rofl:

Robert Schaubhut

05-27-2008, 12:11 AM

Excellent job Greg:wave:,
I guess it is just you and me to finish the theater.:D
The visible hinge was going to happen. I have used the big Soss hinge, a great piece of work but we all have our limitations as does the Soss.
20879

The Soss did not kick the chair rail out far enough to clear the adjoining chair rail as well as some of the other additives to the door face.

I researched gate hinges, pivot hinges, (like the top of a bifold door), and chased a number of other ideas but the one I settled on was setting the door, with the wide throw butt hinges, from hardwaresourses.com... It was the biggest they had, I believe it was a 5"x 10" when open. I really needed the 5"x 12" but could not find it. Even then I had to modify it with a few more holes in the right places.20880
20881

I tried the hinges in a number of different settings and found them to work well.
20883
20884
20882
Yet even with all my attempts to ascertain the correct placement, I still made a 3/4" error in the mock up, which left me having to bevel the chair rail, much to my disappointment.:(
We will address these other items in my next post.
Visible. continuous, separation of surfaces around a wall area.
Door stop on baseboard
Kickplate on lower portion
Small dirty or worn carpet or mar marks on flooring next to "wall"
"Welcome" floor mat next to section of "wall"
:thumb:

:rofl::rofl:

Toni Ciuraneta

05-27-2008, 05:57 AM

Door handle
Visible hinges
Visible. continuous, separation of surfaces around a wall area.
Door stop on baseboard
Kickplate on lower portion
Small dirty or worn carpet or mar marks on flooring next to "wall"
"Welcome" floor mat next to section of "wall"
:thumb:

:rofl::rofl:

You forgot to mention the most important thing. A ringer either on the right or left hand side :D:rofl: ( in case of a main entrance door)

Greg Cook

05-27-2008, 07:12 AM

Ooop, you're right Toni...:doh:

I also thought about a "peep hole", but that might be anywhere..depending on the home owner...:eek::eek: :rofl:

Toni Ciuraneta

05-27-2008, 10:44 AM

Giving it a second thought, I believe that what truly makes a door to be a door is the square hole in the wall. If there is no hole, a door is useless.

" The potter turns a vase on his lathe but it is its void that makes it useful"
" 15 Spokes converge to the center of a wheel but it is the void between them what makes them useful to the chariot"
Tao Te King.

Gosh! I thing that wood dust is starting to affect us!!:rofl::rofl:

Greg Cook

06-05-2008, 12:33 PM

Hey Shaz...

Has the door disappeared yet?

I'd never heard of a Soss hinge before....Kewl! (the wonders of forums and Google....:thumb: :rofl::rofl::rofl:)

:lurk:

larry merlau

06-05-2008, 10:36 PM

well shaz took few mins to see what you were up to:eek: i thought that it was just the egyptians and the aztecs that made hidden passage ways:huh: now i see shaz is tryin to do it too..another clue guys that says door is that there is nothing in frt of it.

Robert Schaubhut

06-07-2008, 12:43 AM

if there was a neon orange sign that said exit, thered be no mistaking it for a door. (or a sign that says Women or Men, usually a door)
Hi Allen :wave:,
Very creative:D, thanks!
S:)

You forgot to mention the most important thing. A ringer either on the right or left hand side :D:rofl: ( in case of a main entrance door)
Hi Toni :wave:,
That is a true clue :thumb:.
S:)

Ooop, you're right Toni...:doh:

I also thought about a "peep hole", but that might be anywhere..depending on the home owner...:eek::eek: :rofl:
Hi Greg:wave:,
A common indicator, for the peeping homeowner.:eek::rofl:
S:)
Giving it a second thought, I believe that what truly makes a door to be a door is the square hole in the wall. If there is no hole, a door is useless.
A hole in the wall with the lines/crack around it, which show a separation of the two parts ie. the door and the wall would look like a door but as Toni says no hole = useless door.:rolleyes: There was a job I did one time on a stepladder. I painted a window on a house to make the house look symmetrical. They could not add a real window so I just painted on a faux window. It looked like a window, but it wasn't!:huh: Now how did we get to that?:dunno: Senior moment?:rolleyes::rofl:
S:)

" The potter turns a vase on his lathe but it is its void that makes it useful"
" 15 Spokes converge to the center of a wheel but it is the void between them what makes them useful to the chariot"
Tao Te King.

Gosh! I thing that wood dust is starting to affect us!!:rofl::rofl:

Hey Shaz...

Has the door disappeared yet? Nope/ not yet!:rolleyes: S

I'd never heard of a Soss hinge before....Kewl! (the wonders of forums and Google....:thumb: :rofl::rofl::rofl:)
They are really high quality hinges and vary greatly in size. Worth a look to know it is available! S

:lurk:

well shaz took few mins to see what you were up to:eek: i thought that it was just the egyptians and the aztecs that made hidden passage ways:huh: now i see shaz is tryin to do it too..another clue guys that says door is that there is nothing in frt of it.
Hi Larry :wave:,
Doors do not usually have anything in front. :thumb: Thanks!

There are some really nice hidden doors we may cover later, with a different thread as they are really trick and easy to do, but this one had great limitations and therefore will not completely disappear.
S:)

These were the givens, only as I determined it. If any other ideas come to your mind I would be very interested in the ideas!:thumb:
#1 The door knob had to stay because the opening in of the door and the secure closure to keep it shut.
#2 The hinge knuckles and pins would be showing due again to the opening in of the door.
#3 Some cracks between the door and the "not door" space around it, due to the fact that it is not a sliding door but a hinged door.
http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20826&thumb=1&d=1211679689 (http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20826&d=1211679689)
This is the door the way I left it for sound board folks and the leather/metal people.

Considering the givens I decided to focus on those things I could do something about.
#1 The crack at the base board
#2 The crack along the hinge side of the door
#3 The crack along the top of the door and
#4 The chair rail

Since I couldn't hide the hinges, I decided to get them as close to the column as possible so as to hide them from view as best I could.
This was the determining factor for placement of the columns both by this door and the one in the same place opposite wall.

So much info to share with no direction as to sequence.:huh::doh:

I had to cut the sheet rock around the door. I needed square corners not round and the corners needed to be wood, substantial enough to affix other stuff to it, right to the edge, what ever it might be. Hard to understand/ hard to explain!:dunno:
As far as the sheet rock cutting, thanks to divine intervention I discovered a great way to cut sheetrock over a stud. I hate cutting sheet rock especially when I have to use 1/2 of the stud for an adjoining piece of something, in this case it was 3/4" plywood. How would you all do it?

allen levine

06-07-2008, 12:55 AM

robert, are the homeowners as anxious as I am to see the finished room?

Greg Cook

06-07-2008, 06:08 AM

Quick question....

Will the leather be on top, or on the bottom of the door. What about the metal? Colors and patterns?

Could the leather be a clue as to "how to hide things"?

A leather covered door knob in a custom shape...? If if it's gonna be there physically, make it an accent, or fade into the background as much as possible.

Could the leather be used in some way to "cover" the hinges and the space between the wall and the hinge side of the door? Leather could be "tight" when the door is closed, but "fold out" when the door is opened. :dunno:

Since the door opens in, could the leather be extended out around the door on the top and side to cover the opening between the door and jam?

Could the metal be fashioned in a similar way, top or bottom?

Without knowing more about the leather and metal, all I can throw out are wild ideas.... :o

Robert Schaubhut

06-07-2008, 03:59 PM

robert, are the homeowners as anxious as I am to see the finished room?
Hi Allen :wave:,
Naturally the home owners would like to see this finished. I have been told that as much as they like my company they would like to see me gone :eek:, meaning done. :rofl: We both laughed as he thanked me and left the theater.:rofl: It is not like they are hurting for a TV. I come in in the morning through the garage, enter the elevator, go to the 3rd floor and leave the same way. The dogs don't even bark at me any more.:thumb: I'm not milking this project, I have a contract price + extras.
Shaz:)

Quick question....

Will the leather be on top, or on the bottom of the door. What about the metal? Colors and patterns?
Hi Greg :wave:,
The metal will be below the chair rail.
21180

21181
This was the first rendition of the metal. It is to be changed to thin round bars criss crossing and a thinner surrounding bar, dipped for plating in an antique brass I believe. The leather will wrapped around padded plywood diamonds and triangles to fit into each hole.
S
Could the leather be a clue as to "how to hide things"?
Not really an issue for me. That is up to the leather and metal folks to do their best on both the doors. I set the doors and surround up to best accomodated their program, hope they try to help hide the seams.

A leather covered door knob in a custom shape...? If if it's gonna be there physically, make it an accent, or fade into the background as much as possible.
Matter of fact, I heard they are having an extension made so the knob will stick out past the sound board, and just be a door knob.:dunno:

Could the leather be used in some way to "cover" the hinges and the space between the wall and the hinge side of the door? Leather could be "tight" when the door is closed, but "fold out" when the door is opened. :dunno:
That is a good idea except that the leather is to cover individual shapes specifically.

Since the door opens in, could the leather be extended out around the door on the top and side to cover the opening between the door and jam?
(LTHP):dunno::D
Could the metal be fashioned in a similar way, top or bottom?
(LTHP):dunno::rolleyes:
Without knowing more about the leather and metal, all I can throw out are wild ideas.... :o
Wild ideas can sometimes be great answers.:thumb:Thanks Greg>
Shaz :)
Oh...(LTHP) = Left to higher power :rofl:
Here is the revelation for cutting sheetrock, with a stud behind it.

21182
21183

Robert Schaubhut

06-12-2008, 02:03 AM

21318

21319

21320

21321

21322

21323

21324

21325

Robert Schaubhut

06-12-2008, 02:10 AM

21327

21328

21329

21330

21331

21332

21333
Adding 5/4" poplar to the jamb and the door to better accomodate the wide swing butt hinge.

Robert Schaubhut

06-14-2008, 12:55 PM

21400

Once the door was hung, with the extended poplar screwed to the jamb and the door edge, the ladderform for the column could be set and the column secured.
21399

With that done, I needed to modify the bottom. I wanted the crack to go away at the bottom of the door so I figured I'd run my base board continuously along the floor. This meant cutting off the bottom of the door. I figured the crack would best be hidden if it (the crack) occurred where the recess was below the bead in the base board,rather than just above the baseboard. This meant I needed to cut off the bottom of the door, at the top of the baseboard. Then nail onto the bottom of the door a pre-made piece with a 3/4" bead on front, that would project out as far as the base.21395

This now meant that the baseboard needed notched for the bead on the door to work. These are pictures of the door with the bottom piece (pictured above) nailed and screwed to the bottom of the door. The base board has yet to be applied.
21396
21397
21398

Robert Schaubhut

06-14-2008, 01:43 PM

Here are several pictures of what this area looks like painted and waiting for leather and metal.
21402

21403
Shaz :)

Robert Schaubhut

06-15-2008, 02:19 AM

With this done the chair rail could be added, crossing the door. I had to build out the door 3/4" to flush it with the sheet rock. Then needed the 1 1/4" built out further for the sound board.
21425

Here is the inside corner at the cabinet.
21426

Once built out the chair rail could be installed over top the underlayment.
21427
21428
21429

The joint at the knob worked out okay but the joint near the hinges needed beveled to work.:dunno:
21430
21431
Excuses or reasons,:dunno: depends on which side of the fence! Engineering, building, delivery and installing, along with the stuff that occurs due to living:huh:, like paying bills, phone calls, computer relaxation and updates:doh:eating, driving etc. leave only so much time in the day to think clearly about solving problems in a creative way. Thus I decided to just bevel the work rather than "reinvent the wheel"!:dunno:
Shaz :)

Greg Cook

06-17-2008, 02:44 AM

Shaz,

If I asked this before here, :bow::bow::bow:

If not, taking my life in my hands....did you give any thought to building a new "door" that would open for access to the attic, but eliminate a lot of the mods you have made on the door that was there before...:eek:

:dunno:

You do great work, but just wondering.......:huh:

Robert Schaubhut

06-17-2008, 02:46 AM

With these things done we could measure and make the frieze for around the room and install it.

21499

21500

21501

21502

21503

Robert Schaubhut

06-17-2008, 10:52 AM

Hi Greg :wave:,
Just noticed your posting with this question, missed it earlier:huh::).
Matter of fact I did in the early days, days gone by, times aforementioned, consider that very thing, building a new door. Started out thinking I would move the jamb out too, flush with the sheet rock and make a flat door that I could add to easily. The reason I decided against that was one little crack that could not be hidden, the one above the door. I figured "if I leave the door recessed 3/4" and remove the sheetrock from above the door, I could nail an extention, to the face of the door at the top, that was the same thickness as the sheetrock. This extension would allow me to add 1 1/4" wood framing to it (because it would be substantial enough to handle my attachment of the build out)[this build out would be for the sound board]. In addition to the frame set out for the soundboard it also offered me that flat secured surface upon which to mount the framed panel which was for over the soundboard. Thus enabling me to eliminate the crack at the top.:rolleyes: If this is unclear just try to imagine as much as you can understand and then try to solve the siuation yourself from there.:dunno: You can do it!:D
Shaz :)

Robert Schaubhut

06-17-2008, 11:29 AM

With these things done here are several pictures of the door to the attic paintd at base level.
21537
21538
21539

These next 2 pictures are photos of the U shaped blocks made long ago to ride over the double thick wall of 2 adjoining cabinets. They were made to be slid in under the screen (and then support it at the correct height) once the screen was inserted diagonally and then uprighted. They here, support the screen.
21540
21541

The screen frame was centered and then secured to the wall.
21542
21543
21544

It is all coming together now. With the screen in place I added the undercounter supports that screwed into the existing curved front deck piece from inside each cabinet, projecting out the back, to support the filler for the back half of the deck top.

The following notation is from Post # 47 of this thread. "The 3/4" deck top is two pieces. The front piece will be fixed and have the curve of the cabinet overhanging the doors however the back of that very piece will be straight. The piece that goes on behind it will go on after the screen is set and secure. It will be flush to the same height as the front part of the deck top but will serve to close the opening in the top, rear of the cabinets that I was needed to insert the screen on the diagonal.
Here is a pic of the deck top front piece. It needed joined in the middle so I ran a chalk line on the cabinets, screwed down some blocks on that chalk line, to keep it straight. then screwed down the deck top and handsawed a common kerf in the existing crack to assure me of a tight fit. http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15713&thumb=1&d=1198806990 (http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15713&d=1198806990)It has the 1/2 round poplar banding on it.
You can see it is joined in the center with corregated fasteners, front faced with the poplar band and then I added a support under the joint and spanning the two pieces, cut to seat the deck top into the existing underlayer.http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15714&thumb=1&d=1198806990 (http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15714&d=1198806990)
Attached Thumbnailshttp://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15711&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1198806968 (http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15711&d=1198806968)http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15712&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1198806968 (http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15712&d=1198806968) This completes the posting from #47."

Media Systems then installed the screen over the frame, a simple clip on white rolled up material.
The rear 1/2 of the deck top was then added and secured from the underside with screws.
This done I could mount the 2 stair step pillars previously constructed. They went in smoothly as did the supports and the rear deck half.
The pillars were secured with 2 screws through the holes in the cabinet sides.

Robert Schaubhut

06-18-2008, 01:55 AM

This is a photo of the screen frame with the screen on it.
21546

Here you see the screen with the side mask move in due to certain format.
21547

Greg Cook

06-18-2008, 03:28 AM

Awesome job, Shaz....:thumb::thumb:

The homeowner is gonna enjoy using, and we have learned a lot, and enjoyed you taking us through this project in detail we could never have dreamed... I know there is more to do, but seeing that wall, with all the detail and the screen in place...it's a real work of art!

P.S. What's the little sign say? :dunno:

Robert Schaubhut

06-18-2008, 01:27 PM

P.S. What's the little sign say? :dunno:

21558
Hi Greg :wave:,
Thanks for your encouragement over the months. You realize the value of comment and input to a thread, and the momentum it maintains. To those who have expressed themselves here, Thanks.
Shaz :)

allen levine

06-18-2008, 11:55 PM

Robert Schaubhut

06-19-2008, 02:19 AM

Robert, all those beautiful doors underneath the screen, are going to be covered with something? (the inner panels that are open now)

Are the bottom cabinets going to be used for equipment, storage, speakers?
Hi Allen :wave:,
Thanks for the compliment on the doors. They were designed by the professional designers at Sheila Lyon Interiors, the design group for this project.

The open part of all the doors will be covered with the same cloth as that being used to cover the soundboard on the wall. I'll be covering the panels (the panels are cut to fit and painted already) some time soon.

There is no hurry now. I am waiting on the leather and metal for below the chair rail and the cast capitals for all my columns. Plus the light for the ceiling being fabricated and the slope on the mansard ceiling getting faux painted.:doh:

Almost forgot, all the black parts around the screen will be getting covered with velux, I think it is called. It is a black velvet like, non reflective covering. Then too we need carpet and seating before I can actually sit back and relax for a favorite movie.:rolleyes:

As for the use of the cabinets under the screen, the center cabinet is for the center channel only. The other 2 cabinets left and 2 right of that are merely storage.

All of the components for this room are located in the projection room. The control for most anything Audio and Video will be controlled by the "touch screen" monitor.

Ed Nelson

06-19-2008, 03:09 AM

Looks like you're heading into the home stretch! It is really looking good Shaz. Don't you love when a plan comes together!!!

allen levine

06-19-2008, 03:30 AM

I have a 52 inch flatscreen with a cabinet made for components underneath it.
We have multiple systems in there, plus Wii, and the cable box.
The heat generated by all those systems were a problem, so since I havent cut out the back of the cabinet, we always leave the glass doors open on front to dissipate the heat build up.
I guess a seperate room for all the equipment will solve that problem.

(we have no extra space in my house.)

Robert Schaubhut

06-19-2008, 04:06 AM

Looks like you're heading into the home stretch! It is really looking good Shaz. Don't you love when a plan comes together!!!
Hi Ed :wave:,
It is really coming together now. Thanks for your help!:D It is nice to see it coming together. You know so well, that feeling when you feel like you have it licked! I have seen some of your projects! I know you know!:thumb:
S:)

I have a 52 inch flatscreen with a cabinet made for components underneath it.
We have multiple systems in there, plus Wii, and the cable box.
The heat generated by all those systems were a problem, so since I havent cut out the back of the cabinet, we always leave the glass doors open on front to dissipate the heat build up.
I guess a seperate room for all the equipment will solve that problem.

(we have no extra space in my house.)
Hi Allen :wave:.can you share the pictures of this unit. There may be some solution we are over looking. :dunno:
Shaz :)

Vaughn McMillan

06-19-2008, 04:38 AM

Home stretch, huh Shaz? :thumb:

:lurk:

From the sounds of things, I suspect they didn't just pick up their A/V components at Radio Shack?

Robert Schaubhut

06-21-2008, 01:10 AM

Hi Vaughn :wave:,
Moving in on the the completion of my contract= X dollars + extras.

They have not purchased anything at radio shack except their carpenters!:eek::rofl:

All the construction that has been done by me was with the end result in mind. A few things remained.
The thermostat needed a solid base to attach to (built out). After the soundboard and the cloth were applied, the thermostat could be seated on the piece shown here.
21592

The light switches had to be secured out, on the same plane. Sound board would be cut to surround it and cloth would cover it all. The cover plate would then be applied.
21593

Then too I needed to add a piece around the projector lense. The cloth needed to end professionally somewhere around the lens.
This is the first layer, 1/2" :huh:,or there abouts.:dunno:
21602

The projector has an accessory tha moves over, across the lense to magnify for certain formats. The second layer did not need cut to accomodate that movement, thus the hole was much smaller.
You will see it later.

A sound barrier and padding was used on the floor.
21594

Here are a few pictures of the diverters and the soundboard in different states of installation. This process was done by another company.
21595
21596
21597
21598
21599

Robert Schaubhut

06-22-2008, 02:03 PM

Next step was the installation of the acoustical cloth to cover the sound board.
Different manufacturers sell their cloth in different widths. Some ar 55" some 66" and I am sure there are others. Since this cloth had no pattern, we could run it horizontally and eliminate the need for a seam in the longer sections. This cloth was 66" wide.
21631

21632

21633

21635

21636

21637

Ed Nelson

06-22-2008, 10:03 PM

Looks great. Are they putting sconces on top of the columns?

Robert Schaubhut

06-22-2008, 10:13 PM

Looks great. Are they putting sconces on top of the columns?
Hi Ed :wave:,
Matter of fact they are adding a light box which will be just below the actual capital itself, on top of the column.
Here are some pictures of the sound board with my framed panels around the border.
21647

21648

21649

21650
Shaz :)

allen levine

06-23-2008, 02:22 AM

Robert Schaubhut

06-24-2008, 02:39 AM

I really love the way the semi circles inside all the wall mouldings corners match all the cabinets corners, adds such a great look. this is one great looking theater room.
rich looking,not meaning money, rich as in classy, majestic., fine workmanship,
Hi Allen :wave:,
I really like that detail too, the one of the little 1/4 round corners set in. That is a design detail from Sheila Lyon Interiors. They did the drawings, I just created "the look." The corners in the cabinets are about 3" radius and the wall panel corners are about 4", a bit larger due to the magnitude of the panels.

Glad you are enjoying these pictures too Allen.
It is a good looking room I am pleased to have had hand in bringing to reality. Thank you for such glowing compliments, I will keep some and share the rest with the designers, painters, cloth people, and the folks at Media Systems. :thumb: Oh, from what I have heard, the best is yet to come!:eek:
Shaz :)

Robert Schaubhut

06-27-2008, 02:15 AM

Here are some photos of the door to the projector room.
21733

21734

21735

21736

21737

21738

Robert Schaubhut

06-27-2008, 02:17 AM

And these go well with the last bunch of pictures.
21743

21744

21745

21746

21747

allen levine

06-27-2008, 02:36 AM

the door blending into the theme of the walls is mucho cool.

Vaughn McMillan

06-27-2008, 08:46 AM

the door blending into the theme of the walls is mucho cool.
^^^ This is what I came here to say. ^^^

Robert Schaubhut

07-06-2008, 11:29 PM

My job is almost complete but I will keep you aligned with the progress of this job as best I can.

The angular parts of the ceiling were painted a base coat about the same color as the cabinets. On July 4th the faux painters were to come in and faux paint those parts of the ceiling. How? I don't know.

I have one more framed panel to put up. It surrounds the soundboard and cloth over the soundboard in one section. Oh, and I do have to put the colored circular tabs over all the screw holes in the removable frames covering the soundboard. They have self adhesive on back and come from "Fastcap".

I do have to install the cloth covered panels into the doors in the front of the theater and then put pull tabs on the doors themselves. . That should complete my part of the contract.
The capitals are to be installed about July 10th
Photos will show the progress as possible.

We still have the metal and the leather below the chairrail to be completed and installed.

Oh and yes, one other thing that happened. All the black painted serfaces around the screen have be covered with a velvet type material by wall paper hangers. I removed the double stair step on each side of the screen to aid them in this endeavor. They supposedly have it all wrapped and the steps reinstalled:dunno:. How could they do it without me?:eek:
:huh: :rolleyes:

Sometimes I think I am more valuable than I am.:o This happens, more often than I think necessary!!!!:rofl::rofl: I may be wrong? :dunno:Who... Me? :rofl::rofl::rofl: Anything ever happen to you like this?:doh:
Shaz :)

allen levine

07-11-2008, 07:04 PM

anxiously waiting a view of the final shots.

Robert Schaubhut

07-12-2008, 04:02 PM

Here it is the 12th of July and the theater is closing in on finished. I'm still not done with my part. Waiting for the right moment. :rolleyes:
Here are a few photos of the progress.

Walls covered for faux painting of the slanted ceiling.

22179

Here is two step vertical pieces next to the screen loosened for ease of covering with the black cloth. The hangers took these down, covered all the area around the screen and the vertical pieces and then reinstalled them. I realize this is difficult to decipher, maybe another photo later will clear it up.

22180

These next 2 pictures are photos of the verticals after wraping with the velvet like cloth and reinstallation. They are taken with a flash and as can be seen (Nothing!!) nothing is a good thing, no reflection of any light. That is why it is installed around the big screen

22181
22182

Remember months ago I showed you pictures of the deck top, and mentioned cutting the dental blocks just shy of the deck top for the installation of the cloth. Here is a picture of the cloth wrapped over the curved deck top and tucked in above the dental blocks..

22183

This is a photo of the attic door. As can be seen this door opens in, therefore, earlier in the planning I decided to apply the molding to the door, after extending the face of the door upwards, so that the crack which would normally occur at the top of the door would not be seen on this one.

22184

This is the same door. I determined the placement of the columns on the wall to coincide with the placement of this fixed attic door. Using the same spacing from the column to the decorative "frame", (the ones covering the edges of the soundboard), it seemed I could best hide the visible hinges from view using the column as a visual block.

22185
More later, I need go build stuff:dunno::rolleyes:.
Shaz:)