<![CDATA[Family Woodworking - General Woodworking Q&A]]> http://familywoodworking.org/forums/ Ask your woodworking questions here - get the answers, too! en Wed, 19 Jun 2013 07:22:51 GMT vBulletin 60 http://familywoodworking.org/forums/images/misc/rss.png <![CDATA[Family Woodworking - General Woodworking Q&A]]> http://familywoodworking.org/forums/ DC; a little underwhelmed? http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?30530-DC-a-little-underwhelmed&goto=newpost Mon, 17 Jun 2013 14:12:26 GMT Hello, Hope everyone had a great weekend. As I stated in another thread... Hello,
Hope everyone had a great weekend.

As I stated in another thread.
I have the HF 2hp duct collector that I installed the thien baffle in.

The DC is in the garage (workshop in the basement) I ran 4" pipe threw the wall. I left the wye on the DC so I can also have dust collection in the garage as well.

I'm a little underwhelmed about the amount of suction it has. I attached a 2.5" shop vac hose and started to vacuum up the floor. It sucks it all up! Which is good.
But if I put my hand over the hose there is not enough suction to keep in on my hand without falling off. Is this normal?

I may eliminate the dust bag and pipe the exhaust to the outside world, not sure about that yet.

Picture 1: Shows a shop vac hose attached. I will eventually make a distribution box with sliding ports to as a central blast gate distribution point.
Picture 2: DC in the garage, I will eventually move the blower unit 90 degrees and up the wall to connect directly to the separator as well as eliminate the long hose to the PVC pipe in the wall.
Picture 3: Pipe threw the wall with a port for expansion.
Picture 4: Pipe turning over been with a sweeping el dropping at 45 degrees.

IMG_20130617_105548_258.jpgIMG_20130617_105353_414.jpgIMG_20130617_105449_487.jpgIMG_20130617_105526_523.jpg

Thanks,
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]]> John Case http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?30530-DC-a-little-underwhelmed Build a pool table http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?30520-Build-a-pool-table&goto=newpost Fri, 14 Jun 2013 22:54:55 GMT I would like to build a pool table...

Has anyone build one?
I'm currently looking for plans now

Thanks,
John ]]> John Case http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?30520-Build-a-pool-table Silly Question: rewiring the basement. http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?30516-Silly-Question-rewiring-the-basement&goto=newpost Fri, 14 Jun 2013 00:45:21 GMT Hey, folks,

We're finally getting around to it: the basement fireplace room. The space is about 16 x 24. Eight weeks ago, Doorlink moved a box down there. This simple act led to all new shelves in the storage hallway, a completely revamped furnace/storage room, an extremely large county large item pickup (it took me near on a week just to haul all that stuff up to the side of the road), and I just finished the last set of shelves down there today. Whew! ;)

Which means it's time to start on the next project: wiring, then insulation, then drywall, then mantle. Some phone pics of the space:

20130613_201859.jpg

These are just to give you some idea of what we're up against. That first blurry one was looking south. Here's the southeast corner:
20130613_201914.jpg

Standing at the exterior door, looking towards the north wall:

20130613_201927.jpg

The west staircase, coming down from the Kitchen, and leading to the room of #3 son:



20130613_201940.jpg

The mantle itself:


20130613_201951.jpg

And of course, this wouldn't be complete without a picture of our hostess:


Doorlink.jpg

Questions in the next post. Thanks for watching so far...
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]]> Bill Lantry http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?30516-Silly-Question-rewiring-the-basement Is this sharpener worth $10.00 http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?30499-Is-this-sharpener-worth-10-00&goto=newpost Mon, 10 Jun 2013 20:47:34 GMT Looks like its made of plastic. Would it sharpen lathe gouges or is it pretty much useless? http://tippecanoe.craigslist.org/bar/3815514990.html Looks like its made of plastic. Would it sharpen lathe gouges or is it pretty much useless?

http://tippecanoe.craigslist.org/bar/3815514990.html ]]> Tom Baugues http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?30499-Is-this-sharpener-worth-10-00 Seeking suggestions - repairing a cracked seat in a pew http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?30497-Seeking-suggestions-repairing-a-cracked-seat-in-a-pew&goto=newpost Sun, 09 Jun 2013 23:14:13 GMT Looking for some ideas on how to address this: We have a couple oak(?) pews at church where cracks have developed in the seat. Looks like a couple... Looking for some ideas on how to address this:

We have a couple oak(?) pews at church where cracks have developed in the seat. Looks like a couple laminations might have separated. These are in the seat, and when people sit on them, and maybe shift around, the crack can open and shift and catch clothes or even worse yet, pinch.

So I'm going to see what I can do about fixing this, and I'm looking for some ideas.

This is a photo of one of our pews (not the broken one, an extra one that I bought at a fundraiser after a renovation, and no, I can't just bring this one in and swap them!!). This is just a visual aid to show what I mean:
pewpew.jpg

The green line is sort of where the crack is located. The seat is sculpted, so there is some curve to it. The underside of the pew is NOT perfectly flat. Parts of it are quite flat, but not perfectly flat. You can tell that even 100 years ago when these pews were crafted, they knew better than to spend a lot of time on the part that no one would see. (Well, except for the little kids that crawl under, but I digress.)

The crack is about 48" long on the one pew, maybe 30" on another. Removing the pew is not really an option I want to consider. Replacement is not an option. These are NOT heritage pieces that are protected by any sort of legislation. I need to fix it in place, which means crawling on the floor and working upside down on the bottom of the pew.

Here are some ideas I've considered:
  1. Scab some plywood under the pew. Cut a piece about 48" long by 6" wide, and fasten it to the bottom of the pew with many screws. Will that prevent shifting?
  2. drive some pocket hole screws in across the crack from below. This might be tricky to get the holes screwed. I also worry that they might squeak worse, if the wood shifts and moves back and forth on the screws
  3. fab up a router jig: like a piece of plywood with a 2"x8-12" hole in it, fasten it to the bottom of the pew, use the router to excavate a shallow flat spot, which I then fill with some oak glued and screwed into place ???
  4. screw some ribs front-to-back across the crack underneath? Hardwood, maybe 1" thick by 8" long? Maybe combine this idea with the #1 idea?



Got any better suggestions?

ps: Vaughn, go ahead with the "pew pew" joke... :doh:
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]]> Art Mulder http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?30497-Seeking-suggestions-repairing-a-cracked-seat-in-a-pew drawer question http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?30474-drawer-question&goto=newpost Fri, 07 Jun 2013 00:57:50 GMT hi gang! ok, here goes. my nephew has changed his idea for an insert for a hole he has under the stairs in his basement. now he wants drawers here... hi gang!

ok, here goes. my nephew has changed his idea for an insert for a hole he has under the stairs in his basement. now he wants drawers here and there, the small wide one i'm pretty certain of the thickness of birch ply for the sides, but there is going to be one big (about 26w x 23d x 10h), and my question is, since this big drawer will be holding blankets, and one or two pillows, what thickness of ply would be recommended? thanks gang! ]]> Dan Noren http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?30474-drawer-question ROS disks http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?30469-ROS-disks&goto=newpost Thu, 06 Jun 2013 14:54:23 GMT I have a Black and decker random orbital sander. It's an 8 hole model, and does a decent job of dust extraction when I have 8 hole disks. Lately, the local borg only carries Norton disks with a ring of many 1/8" (approx) holes that is suposed to accommodate both 8 and 5 hole machines. There's no way I can see to attach a vacuum to the dust bag port, but with these disks, the dust mostly ends up on the workbencch, and very little in the bag. Very, very little.

Is this just me and my ROS, or do other people get the same result witth these disks? It's annoying enough to make me search out a source of 8 hole disks, but at present I have about 100 mini hole disks in various grades. That's a lot of dust to get through them all. ]]> Roger Tulk http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?30469-ROS-disks Whats the current price for Cherry lumber? http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?30460-Whats-the-current-price-for-Cherry-lumber&goto=newpost Tue, 04 Jun 2013 00:23:32 GMT I noticed an ad on my local Craigslist tonight that someone has listed "black cherry hardwood" in 8-11" widths rough cut to 1 1/4" thick. He says the lumber has very little if any sapwood. What is the current going price for cherry? His ad said $2.00 but he is also trying to sell 300 bf of it. I have sent an e-mail asking if he would sell off just a few boards but have not heard back yet.

Ok just heard back from the guy. He said the boards are mostly about 10' long. He said that each board has just under 10 bf per board so each board would be $18-20 each. He also said they were freshly cut. How much will it shrink and how long will it have to sit before I could use it?
He sent me a photo of it.
Is this a good buy?
20130603_102040.jpg
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]]> Tom Baugues http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?30460-Whats-the-current-price-for-Cherry-lumber Awl http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?30458-Awl&goto=newpost Mon, 03 Jun 2013 19:18:52 GMT Some time ago I posted a thread about Glenn complaining that awl's just did not fit his hand.

Concepts: 1) Make an awl that would have a handle that would fit a large hand and not become uncomfortable with use.
2) Make a point that would not bend and get off center. 3) Make a point that was easily seen so it could be placed very accurately.

Notice how the point tapers down directly from the handle. This creates a shaft that will not bend. Notice how the final 1/8" of the shaft tapers in more abruptly for strength. That is the same principal as putting a 30 degree final edge on a chisel that is sharpened to 25 degrees; it will take more use.

I made some prototypes out of poplar or something similar. Glenn fondled them and came up with some suggestions. From the suggestions came Mark 1.
Awk Mark 1.jpg

Mark 1 was great until I broke it. This is Mark 2 on the lathe.
Awl Mark 2 still on lathe.jpgAwl Mark 2 on drill bit.jpg

I stuck it on the drill on the head end of the lathe to apply finish. Finish was 3 coats Clear Seal waxless shellac.

The next pic shows the unassembled handle and point. The pic after that shows all of the file marks on the shank (so I won't break another handle). The point was made by grinding the handle end of a chisel. Since the shank was embedded in plastic, the manufacturer was not too careful about smoothness and roundness. I did not smooth the shank enough for Mark 1 to absorb its insertion.
Awl Mark 2 Handle n Point.jpgAwl Mark 2 showing file marks.jpg

And, finally we have the finished product.
Awl Mark 2 Assembled.jpg

The wood is mahogany taken directly from a South American pallet. The light wood is hard maple.

Enjoy,
JimB
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]]> Jim C Bradley http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?30458-Awl How to do an this... http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?30455-How-to-do-an-this&goto=newpost Mon, 03 Jun 2013 12:33:51 GMT At a craft fair I saw the desktop below. The inlay goes all the way through the top and the front desk drawers. The drawers are just a straight glue... At a craft fair I saw the desktop below. The inlay goes all the way through the top and the front desk drawers.
The drawers are just a straight glue up. But how is the top cut? With a router and a jig?, Cut the strips, glue it up then run it through a planner?

How do you do it?
InlayDesk.jpg

Thanks,
John
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]]> John Case http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?30455-How-to-do-an-this Shop Reconfiguration http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?30454-Shop-Reconfiguration&goto=newpost Mon, 03 Jun 2013 03:31:48 GMT Hey, folks,

You may remember I've just inherited a bunch of sweet tools from an old friend. But every silver lining has a cloud, and here's mine: the shop's too small. So I looked around and tried to figure out what to do. Biggest things first, right? Well, the biggest thing in my shop is my table saw / router table combo cabinet. It's huge: 4 x 8 feet. It's heavy as heck. Doesn't roll well any more. I built it so I'd have a full 48" to the right of the blade. But since I got my festool saw years ago, I never cut plywood on the table saw anymore. Time to downsize!

Got the saw off, and the router table, and everything:

20130531_193049.jpg

Those are 6" casters, my friends.


20130531_193253.jpg

No wonder it doesn't roll well anymore:


20130531_193308.jpg

It's a torsion box. At least I can still tell where the baffles are:



20130531_193443.jpg

Casters off:


20130601_134508.jpg

Making sure the Festool won't try to cut concrete:


20130601_135103.jpg

Laying out the cuts:


20130601_135750.jpg


20130601_142328.jpg

New platform: 24 1/2 by 48 1/2

20130601_142522.jpg

Hurrah! It's still a torsion box!



20130601_142616.jpg
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]]> Bill Lantry http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?30454-Shop-Reconfiguration RAS, who uses one? http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?30452-RAS-who-uses-one&goto=newpost Mon, 03 Jun 2013 01:04:32 GMT Subject says it all.
Who uses a radial arm saw anymore?

I'm debating moving my fathers RAS into my shop.

Thanks
John ]]> John Case http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?30452-RAS-who-uses-one Word of warning - Dust Collection Requirements for Businesses http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?30435-Word-of-warning-Dust-Collection-Requirements-for-Businesses&goto=newpost Fri, 31 May 2013 23:31:26 GMT This probably doesn't apply to a lot of folks, but I thought I would share some things that have been happening to me lately. Recently I went from home shop to "the real deal" woodworking business. I leased a space, advertised, etc... One thing I didn't realize was the potential expense of local requirements for dust collection. I fully expected to spend a good bit of money on electrical/rent/insurance/overhead, etc... , but dust collection came as a bit of a surprise. A few weeks ago I had an inspector stop by and tell me that I had a lot of work to do to meet the city's requirements. Just thought is was worth letting y'all know that if you're moving shop from one location to another, or going "full time" for the first time that you might want to do a bit of research about what your municipality requires for dust collection. Evidently there is a big push to enforce the NFPA 664 standard, even though small shops don't always seem to fall under it. (But cities can require you to do what they see fit.) Currently I have to invest a huge chunk of money into a professionally installed DC system in order to keep my doors open. Just thought y'all might want to know!

- Hutch ]]> Matt Hutchinson http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?30435-Word-of-warning-Dust-Collection-Requirements-for-Businesses pivoting top stand/cabinent for holding bench top tool.. http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?30433-pivoting-top-stand-cabinent-for-holding-bench-top-tool&goto=newpost Fri, 31 May 2013 19:47:23 GMT Well I know I have seen posts where some of you made a stand where the top pivoted so you could hold a grinder on one face and then pull a pin and... Well I know I have seen posts where some of you made a stand where the top pivoted so you could hold a grinder on one face and then pull a pin and rotate to another face with another tool. My primitive searches of the Forum have failed to turn up any of these. Can anyone out there point me to the threads. I think one was Glen and maybe another by Brent...


Thanks
Garry ]]> Garry Foster http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?30433-pivoting-top-stand-cabinent-for-holding-bench-top-tool HF 2hp DC duct work? http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?30420-HF-2hp-DC-duct-work&goto=newpost Wed, 29 May 2013 13:40:44 GMT Hello,
I got a super deal on a harbor freight 2 hp dust collector, a guy on craigslist had one advertised that I got. It's about 10 years old but never used still in the box with the accessory kit. Got it all for $100
I put it together yesterday and built a thien baffle for it. After reading everything I could, I pretty much determined it should have it. :D
I've been reading about dust collecting to try to answer some of my questions about duct size...

There's Cubic feet per minute as well as velocity, I don't want to go to big and have dusty ducts :eek: where the dust just settles in the pipe. Also the larger the duct the more expensive.
I'm planning on locating the DC in a separate area and possibly venting it outside and removing the filter bag all together.

Therefore my questions :huh:
What size duct for the runs?
What size duct for the exhaust to the outside world?
Metal or schedule 20 PVC?

:wave:Thanks,:wave:
John ]]> John Case http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?30420-HF-2hp-DC-duct-work