Blanket chest

Doug Sinjem

Member
Messages
400
Location
La Habra Hts. CA
Looking to make a blanket chest. The loml has picked something off of a Brasilian furniture website. I can get enough info from the pictures on the website to build it.

My main concern is the joinery in the corners of the main box. I'm not sure what type of joint to use. It is going to be solid wood... prolly cherry. Any one have a suggestion on what type of joinery to use?

Also she wants it lined with cedar. Do you run the grain parrallel to the box? How is it attached to the main box and what thickness should I use for the cedar.

Any help would be appeciated


Doug
 
I believe that the very optimum way to run the cedar is to use a herringbone pattern made up of 4" lengths. And the cedar should be at least 2" thick.

At least that's what I've been told.

:rofl:


Seriously, I've seen chests posted here that have the cedar running both ways, one chest will be vertical and another will be horizontal. I think you can get prepackaged cedar closet lining kits that have the planks in 1/4" or 3/8" thicknesses(eseseses):D

If you were to mill your own cedar I don't see why 1/4" material wouldn't work. You can pin it on with a 23ga pinner or you can glue it. That "no nails" glue that is advertised on TV would do the trick.

However, some of the "real" woodworkers here (as opposed to this hack) may have some different or better advice.

Can you post a pic of the chest that you intend to duplicate? I've got a bunch of material that is now dry and is itching to be made into something. I'd like to see your progress.
 
Im going to try and copy it as close as I can. I'm going to get some antique hinges and hasp and have a friend the finishes for a living to the finish. We are going to do an antique finish but no distressing. I was thinking either dovetails or boxes joints for the main corners....not sure what everybody else is doing for their corners.


Doug
 
Doug,
How about pinned box joints? I've also seen Pennsylvania blanket chests with rabbeted/cut nailed corners.

Looks like a cool project - keep us posted.

Wes
 
Mark once you dissect it, to me, it doesn't look too complicated. I guess I'll find out. Basically a boxes with some moulding top and bottom.

Doug
Hi Doug :wave:,
That will be a great project. I think your statement "basically a box with some moulding top and bottom" solves alot of the problem.:D

Aromatic cedar can be bought in tongue and groove pieces about 1/4" thick and as I remember about 2 1/2" wide, by the package.

Good choice of projects, look forward to your "How To" by Doug!:thumb:
Shaz:)
 
The Corner Joints

It's hard to be sure from the pictures of this chest, but I think it is made with simple butt joints. I think I see a butt joint seam in one of the views. Rather than doing butt joints, dove tails, or box joints, I suggest using either a locking rabbit or draw lock joint. Both are relatively strong and do not require a lot of detail work (dt's) or holding long pieces vertically and making multiple cuts (box joint). They are readily done on the ts or router table.

You are right when you describe it as just a box with molding.

Just my thoughts.

Dick
 
I see lots of furniture from the 30's and up made with locking miters that are still tight. Maybe this would work for a fairly simple joint.
 
dovetails would be classier, but a box joint is almost as strong..
i`d steer away from lockmiters and dados...if you do 1" fingers for a box joint it`ll go fast and be plenty strong, here`s a pic of some that are cut long.

MVC-724S.JPG
 
dovetails would be classier, but a box joint is almost as strong..
i`d steer away from lockmiters and dados...if you do 1" fingers for a box joint it`ll go fast and be plenty strong, here`s a pic of some that are cut long.

View attachment 22211

Tod if I go with a box joint it will be quite precarious trying to run a six foot high board vertically on the table saw. I would probably have to use some sort of router jig...what do you recommend.


Doug
 
Tod if I go with a box joint it will be quite precarious trying to run a six foot high board vertically on the table saw. I would probably have to use some sort of router jig...what do you recommend.


Doug

doug, i use a jig i had made by a local cnc guy, a 3/4" top bearing bit and perfect joints in seconds..here`s a pic.

MVC-728S.JPG
 
Doug,
I was looking at the link to the chest. As mentioned before, it doesn't look like it has any dove or box joints. My suggestion, if you don't want any joints showing, is to cut the ends at a 45 deg angles and glue them up using biscuit joinery. Definitely keep us posted with pictures of your project and how you are doing it....
 
Doug...

Fine Woodworking featured a cherry blanket chest by Charles Durfee one time. He used dovetails on the corners, and I thought it was an impressive look. This is a link to where you can buy the plan...not that you'd want to, since yours is probably different, but if you click on "view larger" you can get an idea of what dovetailed corners would look like. He handcut his, and I thought "lot of work"...I have a Leigh jig and I still think "lot of work". But in my mind probably worth it. My 2cents.

http://store.taunton.com:80/onlinestore/item/shaker-blanket-chest-project-plan-011057.html

Good luck with it. Looking forward to photos.

Cheers.
Ed
 
I for one think on the style of chest Doug showed that simple corners would look better. Especially if it is going to have a distressed finish. I would go for butt joints or simple miters. The fanciest I would even consider would be rather large finger joints.

Garry
 
Looking at the style of the chest I don't think box joints or dovetails would look good. I thinking about a locking miter or some kind of locking butt joint.

Doug
 
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