dna help

Hey all
I don't know if it's me or just the nature of the beast,but
i've been trying to turn green wood.it seems like every time
it still cracks.I'll cut down a tree cut it into some blanks, ruff
turn something,put it in the dna for 3or4 hours,take out,put it
a paper bag,and by the next mourning it all ready has started to
crack.Now i've ben using oak just becouse i have 6 1/2 acres of it
and it's just practice. Here's a pic of the latest vase and yes it cracked to.
Steve
 

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Steve, I don't think 3 or 4 hours is nearly long enough. Most folks soak it for at least 24 hours. I often leave it longer than that, since I tend to forget the piece is in the bath.

Try a longer soak and see if that helps. Also, how thick are you leaving the sides of the pieces? If they are too thick, it's more likely the piece will crack. In general, a wall thickness of about 10% of the diameter is a good rule of thumb.

I hope this helps - :wave:
 
Stephen I soak in DNA for at least 48 hrs up to 72 hrs for bowls and lidded boxes. I have left them in for a week when I forgot with no problems. I generally don't soak HF's. I take them from the block right to the finished product. I think soak them in Antique Oil or Danish Oil till they won't soak anymore in. I wait 24 hrs and do it again. Then one more time for a 3rd coat. I let it dry for a week and then buff. I haven't lost one to a crack yet.
 
First of all if you have not read the original information you should. Because you say you are putting the piece in a paper bag I think maybe you have not yet read the original information.
http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/readarticle.pl?dir=turning&file=articles_473.shtml

I believe Dave suggests turning the rough outs (bowls) thinner than the general 10%. I have found that hollow forms should be even thinner. As was said, too thick=cracking. The only pieces that have cracked for me were too thick.

Oak is difficult no matter what you do.:)
 
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