Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 12

Thread: Outdoor sign(Cont. from other thread)

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Floydada, Tx
    Posts
    1,941

    Outdoor sign(Cont. from other thread)

    Ok, Just got back from meeting with my freind who is partilly in charge of the sign. Here are the pics of the old one. They decided that they want a pine or ash sign to replace it(considering qswo). They old sign is 53" wide by 37" tall. They also want it to be 2" thick like the old one. What is going to be the best way to make this with out to much warping? I have been thinking about splines that stop a 1" or 2 from the edge. Very nervus of makeing something that will be seen by lots of pepole on a daily bases.

  2. #2
    Al,
    Maybe it's a "no go", but if it is going to be painted, why not use MDO? It would solve a lot of your issues right off the bat.

    If they are thinking of keeping the sign natural wood, I think it will take a good amount of maintenance to remain looking good no matter what species you use.

    Here's a good site with some description of some of the sheet materials available.
    http://www.industrialplywood.com/13i....html#glossary

    Oh, and for the letters:
    http://www.industrialplywood.com/06p...reth_foam.html

    Just a few thoughts,
    Wes

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    SE Minnesota
    Posts
    2,524
    As Wes says, if painted, MDO would be better. If it needs to be solid wood, I would consider using the same method used for building large wooden rudders for boats. Fasten them together with drifts-long rods that go all the way through. For this application I would use bronze rod threaded at the ends for bronze nuts. At the top, I would use a large bronze washer bedded with a polysulfide type caulk to keep water out of the holes. Since the boards would be hanging horizontally, I would make the joints so they would shed water, The top edge would have a slight crown or slope and the bttom edge would mate to the top.

    The reason for bronze instead of steel or iron is that it won't corrode as rapidly and it won't end up with the black iron stains. Quartersawn lumber is a good idea. White oak would be very durable but it is high in tannin which will react with iron.
    Irony: The opposite of Wrinkly

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Floydada, Tx
    Posts
    1,941
    Thanks for the help. Yes they want a natural look. This was the one thing they insisted on. I told them be perpared to have to recoat it every year or so and they are fine with it.

    Do you think epoxy would be better then TB III? I am going to make a mock up out of 1/2" mdf once the lettering is decided on. This is going to be a fun project.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    SE Minnesota
    Posts
    2,524
    Epoxy would be better than TB III but if you use white oak, wipe the faying surfaces with acetone right before glue up. Or, if you use the drifts, skip the glue altogether.

    What are you going to coat it with?
    Irony: The opposite of Wrinkly

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Floydada, Tx
    Posts
    1,941
    I am going to coat it with waterlox boat finish? I used it on a garage door( did not get pics) and it looked wonderfull. It is a tung oil and does not add any color to the wood.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    SE Minnesota
    Posts
    2,524
    That would be a good coating to apply. As I recall, it would be fairly easy to renew when needed, too.

    I was thinking about the bronze thing. I hope you'll go that route. You can put bronze lifting eyes on the upper ends of the drifts--leave them long enough for that--and hang the sign from the lifting eyes.
    Irony: The opposite of Wrinkly

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Floydada, Tx
    Posts
    1,941
    Dave, will brass or stainless work in place of bronze? The reason I ask is the cost around here for bronze rods are crazy. The 3/8 x 6' peice is around $60. This is three time the cost of ss and I would need two of them plus eyelets.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    SE Minnesota
    Posts
    2,524
    Don't use brass. It's no good for outdoor sorts of things. Stainless would be a second choice to bronze.
    Irony: The opposite of Wrinkly

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Catalunya
    Posts
    4,632
    Old buildings used mainly three types of metal for roofing as far as I know.

    Zinc, Lead and Copper. While Zinc and Lead turn dull grey and last for ages, Copper develops a beatiful green copper oxide layer that protects it and makes it last for ages as well.

    Why not give a thought on those possibilities? One of the things that would bother me on such a sign would be having to clean or polish the letters every now and then to keep them shiny or only good looking.

    By using one of those metals and making sure that they will contrast with the wood I think that you would save yourself an others a lot of time and money.

    If copper is to be used you can speed up the process of developing the green patina before nailing the letters to the sign by using ammonia.

    Once you get them green they are protected and no need anything else, so you can nail them to the sign and forget about them.
    Best regards,
    Toni

    __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _________________
    web site:http://www.toniciuraneta.com
    I also dream of a shop with north light where my hands can be busy, my soul rest and my mind wander...

Similar Threads

  1. Here's your sign!
    By Rennie Heuer in forum Flatwork Project Showcase
    Replies: 31
    Last Post: 09-04-2014, 08:16 PM
  2. a sure sign...
    By Ken Cook in forum Off Topic Discussion
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 02-19-2013, 05:24 PM
  3. A New Sign
    By Randy Wynn in forum Off Topic Discussion
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 11-06-2008, 08:13 PM
  4. G&G Nitestands cont'd 1
    By glenn bradley in forum Flatwork Project Showcase
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 10-28-2008, 05:10 PM
  5. Bowl #5 - a beginners experiences (cont'd) :)
    By John Bartley in forum General Woodturning Q&A
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 08-27-2007, 01:29 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •