I want to cut my own crown moulding.

allen levine

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Im building a small corner cabinet to hold a couple dozen liquor bottles.
Nothing fancy, Im not qualified to build anything that good, but its a box and it will be on legs.
I messed up already back from vacation one day and I already glued up the top the opposite way, with the ends front and back, not on sides.
(Ill make do, I dont want to waste wood)
I want to use some 2.5 inch oak and cut a simple crown moulding on my table saw.
Couple questions. should I rout out a little design using the router first then run it through the table saw at somewhere around 40-45 degree angle cut?
Should I cut it first, then rout it, nothing fancy, maybe just one bit to give it adrop of shape, handheld router, so I cant do much fancy work.
Any suggestions on how to creat a simple crown molding to meet wall to top of cabinet would be appreciated.anyone whos done it and can show me a few steps, would be very helpful.
 
I've only made crown molding a couple times, but I cut it on the saw first, then rout any additional profiles into it using the router table. Then, finally, I cut the bevels into the back to make it sit at the proper angle.
 
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Allen,

You're a braver man than I am. I've seen tons of articles on cutting crown on a table saw, but have never dared... have to keep the workpiece down on the table, keep it moving from side to side as it goes along... my mind keeps going to all the bad things that could happen. I'd much rather do something like that on the router table. Good luck, and *be careful*!

Thanks,

Bill
 
cutting a "cove" on the tablesaw is really quite simple and safe, the blade is only exposed at the beginning and end of the cut so don`t put your hands there;).......lots of articles written about coving on the saw suggest using a single fence, i prefer to use one on each side of the workpiece just to help eliminate the chance for human error......no matter how you rig your fences be sure to use a standard kerf blade and take small bites (1/16th or less)
 
cutting a "cove" on the tablesaw is really quite simple and safe, the blade is only exposed at the beginning and end of the cut so don`t put your hands there;).......lots of articles written about coving on the saw suggest using a single fence, i prefer to use one on each side of the workpiece just to help eliminate the chance for human error......no matter how you rig your fences be sure to use a standard kerf blade and take small bites (1/16th or less)

Tod,
That's exactly how I've done it.

Allen:
Go to Rockler's website, and take a look at their cove molding jig - then build your own. If you're only gonna make one ot two pieces of the same size, you don't need the jig to be adjustable, so just nail/screw it together in the size you need.
 
Cutting my own crown moulding

Is Allen cutting crown or cove moulding? He mentioned wanting to cut his
own crown moulding at the beginning of the thread. I don't have any sug-
gestions as I have not done this before but I do know that simple cove
moulding can be done on the tablesaw but I'm not so sure about crown.
 
Is Allen cutting crown or cove moulding? He mentioned wanting to cut his
own crown moulding at the beginning of the thread. I don't have any sug-
gestions as I have not done this before but I do know that simple cove
moulding can be done on the tablesaw but I'm not so sure about crown.

You're sorta right... The tablesaw cuts the cove, and then you can cut other details using the tablesaw or a router. Some crown molding is a simple cove; others have decorative elements in addition to the cove. Simple edges or grooves can be cut on the tablesaw, or even with a hand plane. More decorative features require either molding planes or a router - preferable a router table.

Of course, if you're feeling flush, you can get a big honkin' shaper, some custom-cut knives, and a power feeder and make the whole thing in one pass.
 
Jim said, in part: "....daw...." Wats a 'daw' ? :huh:

He also said: "Of course, if you're feeling flush, you can get a big honkin' shaper, some custom-cut knives, and a power feeder and make the whole thing in one pass."

Good. Or you could take it to Tod's shop. I'm sure he would welcome the business. Just watchin' his super-honkin' big shaper at work would be worth the price. :thumb:
 
I had to go out today so I wanted to cram a couple of hours into the garage and get some cuts made so I can get on with the cabinet box Im making.
I figured setting up the dado blades, dadoing out the shelves and rabbetting out the back would be nice to finish today, and a little assembly.
I was out at 9am churning up the tablesaw, Im sure my neighbors apreciated that.
But in my haste, I cut the 1/4 inch back rabbet on the same side of both walls. Duh!!!!!!!!
So my cabinet shrunk 1/4 inch in depth today.
Second mistake I made with measurements and assembly in 2 days.
Never underestimate the value of a good nights sleep.

I just hope when I finish it, its large enough to hold a few bottles, and not the size of jewelry box if I have to keep cutting down on depth and width or height.
 
I've got some stuff on doing raised panels using the cove cut method on this page of my website. Also, and in answer to part of your question, I've a link to this site at the bottom of the page which shows a bunch of different profiles and the fence angle and blade tilt to reproduce them.

Though my page shows using a single fence, a double fence sure makes it easier to control the work when machining stuff that is amenable to using a double fence.
 
thanx, Im not up to the moulding yet, but Ill surely take a look.
Im not sure now, neither is the wife, if I want to just put a flat piece of moulding up near top to match door frames, or what.


Im struggling with my face frames lately.

The last few Ive built, for a variety of projects, Ive noticed something about most of them.
I hate to use any type of putty, Id rather dry fit them, make sure clamped there is not visible gaps, and I look with my readers to make sure its perfectly square and flush.
I glue them up, using bisquits, make sure they line up perfectly again, tighten the clamps, then let them dry for an hour or so till I see glue I left on table is dry.(I let a bit of glue dry on a piece of wood to see when it actually dries to the touch,since its always so humid Im never sure)Then I release clamps, joints look perfect, I check on them in an hour, still look perfect, then leave them overnight before I route anything or rabbet the backs.
When I check on them in morning, it seems Ive got a near perfect frame with square joints, but sometimes a 1/4 inch seam(length, width is only a hair) visible, nothing that bothers anyone but me, but nonetheless, its there.
maybe only a 1//16th, but it seems the wood swells or something and the seam opens a tiny tiny bit in a spot or two. Usually on no more than one seam on the door. I dont get it.
I just dont get it.(my wife told me to get a new pair of reading glasses if it bothers me so much, logical solution she says)

I check and recheck all my cuts, square off the mitre saw, even clean up any stubble after the biscuit cutter, still happens.
 
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allen is this what your going for-
DSCF0016-5.jpg

if so this is how i do it-
DSCF0003-16.jpg

alex
 
no, not something like that, exactly like that. But I gave up.
If I could cut some crown style top like that, Id be able to give up my day job.
Dont tease me, or Ill have my wifes cousin in houston come knocking and ask you for that, and shes pretty scary.
 
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