If you're making standard tenons (no compound angles), you can cut them on the table saw. A dado blade makes it faster but you can use your standard blade - it just takes more cuts.
Let's say you want to make a tenon 1.5" long. Use your sled and set up a stop block 1/5" from the far side of the blade (not the side closest to the stop block but the other side).
Now, set the depth of the cut. Let's say you want the tenon to be 3/8". Figure out how much you need to cut on each side to leave 3/8" in the middle. Raise your blade less than you think you need, and cut just the end of the board. Measure the depth of cut. Adjust blade until you get the right depth.
BTW, if I want at 3/8" tenon, I make it a fat 3/8" to make sure it fits the mortise and trim with a shoulder plane when I'm fitting. The alternate way is to raise the blade as discussed earlier, but make a cut on both sides and trial fit into your mortise. When the fit is right, use that depth of cut.
All you have to do now is just keep making cuts until your board hits the stop block. For the sides, I usually make the shoulders the same just so I won't have to re-set anything. Sometimes you can't do that because you want a bigger shoulder on one side.
This gives a square tenon with square shoulders. To avoid tearout, make sure you have a good backer board. Another reason I make my tenons fat is so I can trim off the saw marks, but with a dado blade they come out pretty smooth.
For complex tenons, I use a tenon jig.
Good luck!
Mike