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Thread: Adding UHMW to a Shoot Board

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Bucks County PA
    Posts
    149

    Adding UHMW to a Shoot Board

    Hi gang,
    While cleaning up the shop over the past weekend I came across this sheet of UHMW (or is it UHMV?...whatever!) that I purchased from PeachTree USA several years back. It was meant as a face for a tablesaw jig that never got made. It fell behind some boards and was forgotten until this weekend.

    I took one look at it and then my shoot board and decided it was time for a retrofit. I cut it to size and countersunk (8) holes for brass screws.

    I had a chance to use this while I was making some tool hangers for my tool cabinet. It worked even better than I had hoped. My LN#9 glides right over it.



    Thanks for viewing!
    See ya around,
    Dominic
    See ya around,
    Dominic

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Austin TX
    Posts
    405
    Dom,

    Great idea. I was at a Lie-Nielsen demo this weekend and the shooting board they used could have used this modification. I'll have to share this with my buddy with Lie-Nielsen.

    Thanks,
    Lee Laird
    Austin TX

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Bucks County PA
    Posts
    149
    Thanks Lee!
    See ya around,
    Dominic

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Bellingham
    Posts
    2,449
    Dominic,

    That is a great idea which I will use on my next one. I am interested in your fence. Would you explain it, because I am not sure what I am seeing there? Is that a micro adjuster block for realigning the fence?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Bucks County PA
    Posts
    149

    Micro Adjust close up photos

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Satko View Post
    Would you explain it, because I am not sure what I am seeing there? Is that a micro adjuster block for realigning the fence?
    Here are the photos that detail the "micro adjust" feature on my shoot board. The whole idea was to make it easy for me to sneak up on a perfect 90 deg cut. Once it's set, I drive a Phillips head screw in to lock it in place (that's the one closest to the metal clip).


    I use a 3/4" x 3/4" x 1 1/2" block of red oak with a 3/16" T-Nut installed as a jacking screw base. A 3/16" socket head cap screw is threaded through this jacking screw base and bears against a metal angle clip attached to the fence. The 3/16" socket head cap screw pivot for the fence is attached to the base via another T-Nut which is installed in the base of the sled. (This is the allen head screw with the washer)

    When first installed, the fence pivots somewhat freely and I use a square to get it to as close to 90 deg as I can. Then I advance the screw and make it bear against the metal plate on the fence. This limits the travel. I take some test cuts and when they pass muster with my 6" Starrett Square I secure the fence with a screw. In my next version it will be a bolt/nut that is in an oversized hole.

    That's pretty much it.


    See ya around,
    Dominic

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Bellingham
    Posts
    2,449
    [Dominic Greco] I secure the fence with a screw. In my next version it will be a bolt/nut that is in an oversized hole.

    Dominic,

    I assume that you are going to a bolt/nut so that you can easier re-secure the fence if you have to adjust it again. Thanks for sharing! I have mentally tucked that one away.

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