Last edited by Chuck Thoits; 05-03-2009 at 03:12 PM.
It could be worse You could be on fire.
Just a guess ---- Burnt out start capacitor? Under the 'can' that's bolted to the outside of the motor. If that's it, it oughtta be about a $10.00 repair. Good luck!
First, I have my doubts it's a start cap. When they go bad, at the least all I have seen, they just sit there and humm.
You posted this in old iron, how old is the motor? Any chance it is a R/I (repulsion - induction) motor? It would have no start cap, thats the first hint. I have seen that happen with them before.
Some more info on the motor might help.
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Do you know if this machine ever worked properly for the previous owner? If not, any possibility you've got a 3-phase motor on your hands? Do you see any of the "tubes" where a capacitor would be located? Could be if it is a 3-phase the converter is missing or shot. The tripping the breaker sure sounds like an internal short. Sounds like it's not a dead short, since it doesn't pop the breaker immediately, but pulling too much current for sure. Just thoughts.
Chuck I assume you are trying to run the motor on 110 volts. If you could please post a picture of the connection box. It would help to know if it is a capacitor start motor. I sounds like it is fairly new motor by the wire numbers.
Yeah, Chuck! Where are the pics?
How do we know this alleged lathe even exists?
Under no load, a motor can start moving if the start capacitor is dead..... Also some have both Start and RUN capacitors that keep the current flow even under power loads and such, perhap that capacitor is fritzed. Give it the ole Sniff test. or look for black goo (although I have seen dead guys that leave a fine looking body that don't stink.) Also the Centrifical switch may be rusty (Or caked in dust and resin) and not turning on the Capacitor. A little spray lube might help there. do it "Click" when you turn off and on the motor. No "Click", it ain't workin.
I have compressor that did the same thing yesterday, the start Capacitor has departed this earth and with it, all air power, right in the middle of a job... an hour delay whilst I borrow my son's pancake compressor. SWMBO says I need to downsize and send the old beast (28 years old, built from Truck Air Brakes system parts and compressor) to scrap heap and get a new pancake as I NEVER use air tools anymore.
You can test for a bad starting capacitor by giving the motor a good spin - in either direction - and then plugging it in (or switching it on) while the motor is still spinning at a decent speed. If the motor is otherwise good (and is wired correctly), the motor will pick up speed in the direction you spun it. If you want to be absolutely sure, disconnect the starting cap before you run this test. The reason is that the cap may have some small capacity left and if the starting circuit opposes the direction you spun the rotor, it can stop the shaft.
If the motor doesn't get up to normal speed with no load, you have another problem.
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Hey Chuck, looks like a monster lathe, but the pics are real small, so it'd about impossible to see any of the wiring details. Can you resize them into the 800 x 600 range? Let me know if you need me to help.
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If just the front of the motor is getting real hot and not the back, couldn't it be just a bad bearing? Wouldn't that allow the shaft to turn for a few rpms, and then when the motor gets overloaded trying to power the shaft through a bad bearing, it trips the breaker?
I know nothing about electrical motors, but as a machinist I know bearings. When I first heard the description of the problem, I immediately thought...bearing problem. He did say this thing is beat up pretty bad. Maybe that's not it though.
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