sharpening wheel grit preference

what wheel grit to you use for lathe tools?

  • 40

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • 60

    Votes: 2 6.5%
  • 80

    Votes: 14 45.2%
  • 100

    Votes: 2 6.5%
  • 120

    Votes: 7 22.6%
  • other

    Votes: 6 19.4%

  • Total voters
    31
  • Poll closed .

Frank Fusco

Member
Messages
12,782
Location
Mountain Home, Arkansas
I am setting up a new Wolverine sharpening jig. As I do this, I find I may have to buy a new grinding wheel. I currently use an 80 grit but am open to change if good reasons for doing so are presented. I am curious as to what the most popular grit is for sharpening lathe tools. An post as to why this is your choice would be welcome also.
I use the 80 because it was recommended to me by a professional turner. His explanation was that a 60 overheated and removed too much metal too fast. A 100, according to him, didn't remove hardly any metal and, essentially, just polished the cutting edge. But an 80 was "just right".
 
I got to say "Other" as I use two, an #80 and a #46.

I use the #80 about 90% of the time, but the #46 sure comes in handy when I have to reshape a tool or make a tool, it removes a lot more steel a lot faster. I used to have the #120 and #80, but I found, for me, the #120 clogged up really quickly and I did not see much of a difference on sharpness. On my skews, I use the #80 then I have a medium diamond hone (#400 :dunno: ) and then the honing wheel with the compound on it, to get the skews shaving sharp.

Works for me! :wave:
 
46 & 80. Those are the only two grits that the best wheels come in. You can't get the Norton SG and Norton 3X "K" wheels in other grits.
Finer grit doesn't remove as much steel, runs hotter than coarse grit wheel.

According to Doug Thompson who has tried almost every coarse grit wheel, there is nothing comparable to Norton 3X 46 grit K wheel in shaping turning tools.

I had the Norton 3X 46 grit to replace the OEM coarse wheel from the Woodcraft slow speed grinder. The performance is night and day. It is several folds faster without over heating. I don't have to clean the wheel as frequent as well.
 
Gordon, your right the Norton 46 grit K grade will remove a lot of metal in a hurry... the steel gets hot but it doesn't burn. I hit the spindle tools on a 80 grit K grade wheel before they are sent out, IMO this is a good edge.
 
I voted other too, as I have no idea what grit came pre-equipped on my six inch grinder.... :dunno:

I assume my setup is substandard, but it's a far sight better than the things I was trying before.... ;)

Thanks,

Bill
 
I currently have an 80 and a 120...both are Oneway wheels that I used to upgrade my Woodcraft grinder. Even with the addition of the Oneway balancing kit, I'm not completely happy with this combination, especially considering the cost of the wheels. I'll be trying the 46 and 80 grit K grade wheels next time around.
 
I voted other too, as I have no idea what grit came pre-equipped on my six inch grinder.... :dunno:

I assume my setup is substandard, but it's a far sight better than the things I was trying before.... ;)

Thanks,

Bill

If it works use it! My personal tools are sharpened on a 25 year old 6 inch B&D grinder with a green 100-120 grit wheel... the other wheel is a course gray who knows what grit. I did try a Norton 100 grit wheel for some demos but didn't like it. I think the 80 grit K grade has a better finish mostly because it is so hard... the surface almost looks polished.

I have 3 Wolverines, 4 Vari-grinds on slow and high speed grinders but use this old one because it works for me and I freehand the grind.
 
Doug,

Amazing how we acquire all of this equipment for whatever the process and at times come back to what we're ultimately comfortable with. Whether that be an older "inferior" grinder or perhaps hand sharpening without jigs on water stones. Due to one of my close friends, I have a Tormek T-7, yet I finalize my bench chisels on one of the Norton water stones (4000 / 8000) which has proved to enhance the Tormek prepared edge. Even though I do this honing without jigs, I don't have your touch to do my lathe tools freehand.
 
If it works use it! My personal tools are sharpened on a 25 year old 6 inch B&D grinder

I use a 40-50 year old, 6" Thor grinder. Takes forever to stop spinning after you turn it off. The gray wheel is original and I'm guessing it's 60 grit.

I built my own wolverine clone.

According to all the experts, I do everything wrong also
 
I use a 40-50 year old, 6" Thor grinder. Takes forever to stop spinning after you turn it off.

There is nothing wrong with the old mechanical stuff. That was when companies took pride in their reputation. They didn't have computer model to predict the life expectancy of every part to fall apart at the same time, to recycle. They over design, over build and the goal was to build something that would last forever.
My friend has a no name grinder that he purchased used from a traveling sales. It runs so smooth I will be willing to trade him with a brand new 100 pound heavy duty Delta, if he is willing to let it go.
 
There is nothing wrong with the old mechanical stuff. That was when companies took pride in their reputation. They didn't have computer model to predict the life expectancy of every part to fall apart at the same time, to recycle. They over design, over build and the goal was to build something that would last forever.

We're on the same page Gordon, Nothing like old steel.

I could relate a story, but it would be way off topic.
 
The Craftsman motor shown in the picture is probably older than I am. It, and others, came from my fathers shop. It runs very smoothly. My grinder, a Craftsman also, I purchased in the 1970's. As it slows down when I turn it off, my shop sounds like a B52 is taking off.
 
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