Two Oak HFs

Mark Pruitt

Member
Messages
49
Location
Leeds, AL
Here are a couple of HFs I recently completed out of some oak I had lying around. Both finished with Arm-R-Seal and Beall buffed.

This one is about 7.5" dia. with a Bloodwood collar:
DSC_0377edit2.jpg



And this one is about 9" dia. with Santos Rosewood collar:
DSC_0375edit2.jpg


The last coats of Arm-R-Seal finish were applied off the lathe, and the stuff was such a PITA to work with that in the future I am probably going to restrict my use of it to applying while on the lathe.

Comments welcome!
 
Beautiful! Love the contrasting collar colors....say that fast ten times. :D :thumb:

Did you rough turn first or just turn to finish? I've done both with oak and had cracking problems on some, not on others. :huh:
 
Wow Mark those are great!!

How long do you let the Arm-R-Seal dry before buffing? I have been using General Finishes Outdoor Oil and I love the way it buffs and it dries really fast (buff same day) but it tends to have a dark color to it that I sometimes want to stay away from. May have to check out the Arm-R-Seal especially if it is a easy to work with as the other.
 
Those are outstanding. I really like the color of that first one.

I have some Post Oak but I can't keep it from cracking. Any tips you can share on how to treat it?
 
Arm-R-Seal

Nice work! I like them both, but I think I may like the color of the insert on the second one better. The finish looks great, too.

I have been using Arm-R-Seal lately. I no longer finish on the lathe, but apply the Arm-R-Seal while it's off, but still has the tenon. I do this mainly cuz there is nothing on the workpiece to hold on to after the tenon is gone. I have been applying the finish, then wiping off with a dry paper towel and/or cloth. It basically appears to have been completely wiped off, yet there is still a thin layer, and it gives the piece a very even finish. Also, I don't have to worry too much about it gumming up and streaking this way. There is a small amount of streaking anyway, but so minimal that it gets buffed out with tripoli. How exactly have you been applying the finish while on the lathe? I haven't come up with a way not to get the jaws all messy. Thanks.

Hutch
 
Did you rough turn first or just turn to finish? I've done both with oak and had cracking problems on some, not on others. :huh:
I turned them start to finish, but the oak had been sitting in my shop for over two years and was basically "dry."

How long do you let the Arm-R-Seal dry before buffing?
I let it cure for at least a week.

I have some Post Oak but I can't keep it from cracking. Any tips you can share on how to treat it?
No tips other than the standard measures--sealing the blanks, eliminating the pith, etc. Some pieces are just "bad" it seems. There's always the option of trying to fill the voids with thick CA and either dust or coffee grounds.

How exactly have you been applying the finish while on the lathe? I haven't come up with a way not to get the jaws all messy.
I apply it with a paper towel as a friction finish. I would never have associated that method of application with Arm-R-Seal, but the man at "my" Woodcraft store (Roanoke) told me he had used it in that manner, with good results. It dries fairly quickly when applied thusly, at least the first coat.

As far as getting the jaws messy, I limit contact with the jaws as much as possible, but honestly I haven't noticed a problem with getting a little of the finish on the jaws. I go over the entire piece with a dry paper towel, and purposefully allow the dry towel to contact the jaws. The result is a set of nice shiny jaws.:rolleyes:
 
On the topic of finish on the lathe and getting the jaws wet with finish.....

i spray WD-40 all over the jaws first and then wipe it off later and the jaws stay new looking and clean up is in seconds but i understand what your saying.....just my 2 cents.....LOL
 
Top