Help build my shop

Given the money and space, for me the SIP's can't be beat for a shop. I look at them every time I go to the local home show and think, "wow, what a great shop this would make!"
 
Given the money and space, for me the SIP's can't be beat for a shop. I look at them every time I go to the local home show and think, "wow, what a great shop this would make!"

They're a great system, but wouldn't you need a crane to get the SIPs in place on a roof? Even standing up a 4 X 10 panel for a wall can get nasty if there's any wind. Definitely a two or three person job, no?
 
I did the same! c'mon larry - give it up!:rofl:

go to his web site, posibly.. i know he had one several years ago its got a double layer of 3/4 osb on the floor and i have seen a 12" powermatic jointer settin next to a three some of shapers and they wernt saggin and its spotless. and i have seen the under side, i think they were 2x10's get ahold of him he's a great freind and will help ya out over there!!!! things arent what he likes here.
 
sip`s are great..........but..........they are not self supporting, the roof must either be trussed or steel purlins. for walls electrical is a bugger unless you don`t mind surface mounted conduit?
bang for the buck with the ability to match the house i`d go with a steel structure, use sips on the roof if you want but fill the wall bays with conventional framing.....by using stud walls you have the same finishing options as a house, by going steel framing (red iron) you can easily span 40` and do what you like inside later....
advice is worth what you paid for it;)
 
sip`s are great..........but..........they are not self supporting, the roof must either be trussed or steel purlins. for walls electrical is a bugger unless you don`t mind surface mounted conduit?
bang for the buck with the ability to match the house i`d go with a steel structure, use sips on the roof if you want but fill the wall bays with conventional framing.....by using stud walls you have the same finishing options as a house, by going steel framing (red iron) you can easily span 40` and do what you like inside later....
advice is worth what you paid for it;)
The sips buildings I've seen locally only use a ridge beam for the roof. The Sips panels I have looked at can easily span 20'+ @ 4:12 with only the walls and the ridge beam. Makes for a nice wide open space.

Surface mounted conduit is fine with me. Also, the ability to hang almost anything from almost anywhere would be a big plus.
 
The sips buildings I've seen locally only use a ridge beam for the roof. The Sips panels I have looked at can easily span 20'+ @ 4:12 with only the walls and the ridge beam. Makes for a nice wide open space.

Surface mounted conduit is fine with me. Also, the ability to hang almost anything from almost anywhere would be a big plus.

Rennie, you are right about the span. The quote a few years ago was for a 5:12 pitch 24' wide building and they told me a center beam was the only support required. I believe roof panels are 8-12" thick with a 2x reinforcing the edges. They also told me the wall panels are manageable with two people, roof panels would require a crane but I think if I were to go this route I'd just use conventional trusses as they're pretty easy to insulate.

Wes
 
sip`s are great..........but..........they are not self supporting, the roof must either be trussed or steel purlins. for walls electrical is a bugger unless you don`t mind surface mounted conduit?

I've watched various SIP videos on the net and they show both trussed roofs and SIP roofs.

Electrical, from what I've seen and understood, sure does require re-thinking how electrical gets installed. The panels come with pre-cut channels for fishing wires both vertically and horizontally. The main challenge that I saw, in the video I watched, is that you really need to drill the access hole through the floor plate BEFORE you install the SIP panel. Then you can feed wire up from the basement, through the hole, into the channel in the SIP.

If I was building a house I'd sure want to look into using SIPs. Quicker construction. Better insulation. Better SOUND insulation. Straighter and flatter walls, which means cabinets install easier.

ETA: oh yeah, I forgot... for SIP roofs you do need different shingles, since this will be a "warm" roof.
...art
 
Last edited:
maybe it`s just me but spanning 24+ feet with osb and foam isn`t something i`m comfortable with.....setting sips on trusses or purlins i`d go for.....but i ain`t no engineer:eek:
art raises a good point about roofing materials.......might be worth a call to your shingle mfgr. if you like the idea of sips for a roof?
 
maybe it`s just me but spanning 24+ feet with osb and foam isn`t something i`m comfortable with.....setting sips on trusses or purlins i`d go for.....but i ain`t no engineer:eek:
art raises a good point about roofing materials.......might be worth a call to your shingle mfgr. if you like the idea of sips for a roof?
Think of it as one big, flat I-Joist.

Here is the company near me that sets up an exhibit at the local home show.
 
i don`t trust "i" joists either rennie......floors should be framed out of douglas fir or don`t bother.......just how i do things:eek:

Tod I-joists are superior to conventional framing lumber for floors...they will carry more load, span further, are dimensionally stable so they wont shrink and cause squeaks, not to mention a lot straighter. I have done several heavy duty floors with both and I joists win in my opinion.

Didn't Marty do his shop with I-joists?

DOug
 
Top