English Workbench

Don Baron

Member
Messages
44
Location
Brandon, MS
I just finished building the English bench out of Chris Schwarz's book. I followed pretty closely to his version with only minor changes. Instead of the square dog holes, I used 3/4" holes throughout. It was easier to make that way and it gives me more options for hold downs and wonder dogs.
I have been thrilled with it so far. It does not budge unless you really want it to, even though it probably weighs less than 200 lbs. Just the real estate on the top is worth it. It is more than double my old bench, so I can really spread out. Now I just need to get over my worry about damaging the top and have a little fun.
This is a great bench to build for somewone with only limited tools. I built it with an old contractors saw, an older craftsman 6" jointer, and even older craftsman 6" planer, and a benchtop drill press. I did truck the aprons and top over to a friends house to use his 20" planer, but it is definately possible without major tools.
Don
 

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I'm not familiar with all the bench styles, so I'd not seen one with the canted legs. Is that what sets the "English" style apart from others? Looks like a great bench, and I'm sure you smile every time you use it. :D
 
Some answers

Thanks for the compliments guys. To answer a couple of questions, I used southern yellow pine for the entire bench. In the book Chris reccomended buying the longest 2x12's you could find. The reason being that they are the straightest and clearest pieces you will find. He was right on. I did get quite a few funny looks and a several comments as I hauled them out to my PT Cruiser. I just used a handsaw to cut them into 8' lengths in the parking lot. I do want to replace the jaw for the leg vise. The pine flexes a little too much for me. I will probably go with ash, hickory or maple.
From my understanding the biggest defining feature of an English bench is the wide aprons. Chris notes that many historical examples have vertical legs, or only one side angled out. The angled leg on the leg vise gives you clearence to the floor without hitting the screw or offsetting your work. He designed all four legs angled out just to simplify the base.
Thanks again, Don
 
That's a beautiful bench. I like Christopher Schwarz's approach to tools and benches - practicality and function.
Nice job building it out. Not to pry, but what is the ballpark cost of making one of those?
Paul Hubbman
 
Paul, let me try and break it down for you.
Leg Vise screw $40
Wagon vise (Shoulder) Screw $32
Appx 6 20' 2x12's @ $22 each
3/8 oak dowels $5
5/8 Oak dowel $4oak leg vise guide $3
2 1/2" cabinet mounting screws, 2 packs, $6 each. I used these with an additional 1/4" flat washer to secure the cleats under the top. I like them because they have a built in washer under the head.

So, roughly about $200-$220. Really not bad at all for what you get.
Don
 
Don, it looks very good. I am interested in how you like the wagon vise once you get a chance to use it some. I am thinking of using one in a bench I am designing. When I get that far I will contact you for advice. Again good job on the bench!:thumb:
 
Those angled legs on the English bench are designed to resist the force of racking while planing boards on the top. The long apron in the front is support the ends of boards while held in the front vise vertically.

Some of the ideas published by Christopher S. at the beginning of the year really helped me come up with a bench design. It is about half finished. I wimped out and chose a mix of square/round benchdog holes.

That hardware from Lee Valley sure provides a lot of clamping options. I expect mine to weigh in at close to 300lbs when done. The top is 2" European Beech and contributes almost 200 lbs to that total.

Gary Curtis
 
I've never seen a bench quite like yours Don. But, it certainly looks like a bench that I would like. Good job!

I am thinking about adding a leg vise to my bench and would appreciate it if you could provide details about just what hardware you used for the vise and how you built it.
 
nice job

and another one intersted in your hardware for the leg vice.. i thought the pine would flex and you just confirmed my thoughts..ash would be my choice fr the leg.
 
Well done!

I also have Chris book on benches and I'm thinking about how my new bench should be I can't make my mind up, If I hadn't purchased tha hardware (vice and end vice) I would have gone for that one I guess, I like very much the slanted vice that gives a good grip on long vertical pieces.
 
Leg vise

Frank and Larry,
The screw I used for the leg vise was the Lee Valley Tail Vise Screw #70G01.52 for $39. It was very easy to install. I first cut the mortise in the leg for the parallel guide and drilled a 2" hole for the screw. Then I took the blank for the vise and cut a through mortise in it. Next was to cut the tenon on the guide and drill the staggered holes for the pin. I just used a large philips screwdriver for the pin. After glueing and wedging the guide into the vise I fit the guide into the leg and clamped it down. Then I used the forstner bit that I drilled the screw hole to mark the location of the hole in the vise. After that I was able to use the leg and apron to mark out the final shape of the vise. It really was a straight forward process.

Larry, I am beginning to rethink replacing the pine vise. The flex may not be such a bad thing after all. Because the pin in the guide is approximate it lets the vise conform slightly to whatever I am clamping. And I don't have to worry about the vise marring the work since it is so soft. I may try a hardwood vise just to see if there is a significant difference.

Don
 
bench top material

I am in the process of designing a bench but alas I have groung to a halt as it were. The top has me stopped. I have read and agree that the top should be made from Beech, Maple, Oak or some other hard wood. The problem is $$$$ and lack of availability where I live. Believe it or not I live 14 miles south of Olympia Wa and there are no hardwood retailers that I can find. (still looking) The cost from outside the area is too much for my limited pocketbook. Doug Fir is plentiful, reasonable but soft. In this case would any of you recommend a finished surface?
Any other suggestions? Thanks
 
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