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Thread: Spiral Cutterhead for jointer

  1. #1

    Spiral Cutterhead for jointer

    I just ordered a new spiral cutterhead from Grizzly for my 6 inch Ridgid jointer (610). The salesman told me that it is easiest to get new bearings, because the cutterhead does not come with them. He says it is easier to use new bearings instead of trying to remove the old bearings and installing them. I found the part number for the bearings ( 820722-5 and 820722-6). I don't know about cost or if I can buy these at my local Ace Hardware.

    Has anyone else done this? Can you give me any tips or suggestions?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Billings Missouri near Springfield Mo
    You need to look for an Industrial supply co. in your area I don't think you will find a good bearing at a Hardware store you might even try Auto Parts stores. Look in yellow pages under Bearings. Don't forget to take one of the old bearing with you and when you get them out look on the side of the bearing and there should be the more standard # there.

  3. #3
    OK thank you... will do

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Easthampton MA
    The part number would be on the bearing not a parts breakdown. Industrial suppliers or better yet would be under beariings or power transmission in your yellow pages. Definitely not Ace or your hardware store. You can also measure the bearings with a caliper. They will be in metric measurements. You willl end up with better bearings than the stock ones and go with rubber seals. Many tools come with shielded bearings which are metal covers instead of rubber seals. I get my bearingss from Unisaw bearings run about $1.50 for Japanese Nachi bearings.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    hey rick, good to see ya!
    [SIZE="1"] associated with several importers and manufacturers.[/SIZE]

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Floydada, Tx
    Check your local machine shop. They will be able to get you good quality ones.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Rosewood Heights, IL

  8. #8

    Getting bearigns today

    The bearings are 15mm X 35mm and 17mm X 40mm. The local bearing distributor has prices of $5.06 and $3.78. I think that is cheap. I plan to ask them for a better bearing than the standard 6203NSE and 6202NSE. Sounds like I want the rubber seal bearings. I get the cutterhead today so I plan to install this tonight. I sure hope the shaft on the new cutterhead is the same as the old cutterhead. I am taking the old head and bearings with me so hopefully I get the right ones.

  9. #9


    I got the cutterhead installed last night. The bearings I went with are NTN bearings 6203LLBC3/L627 and 6202LLBC3/L627. The bearing sizes are 15mm X 35mm and 17mm X 40mm.

    The spiral cutterhead (part # 7764 ) arrived from Grizzly in a wooden box inside a cardboard box. I was impressed with the packaging. It also came with a torx bit and driver to change out the replacement tips, with instructions. It also came with extra replacement tips. By the way this thing is very sharp. Might want to use gloves when handling it.

    I pressed the new bearings on the cutterhead with a makeshift press. You could also pay a machine shop $20 to press them on for you. I don't recommend that you try and remove the old bearings and reuse them. Unless you have the correct tools I doubt you will be able to get them off the old cutterhead with out damaging them. After the bearings are on in place I pressed the bearing supports on both ends. This is not a big deal. If you have a socket or piece of pipe that fits the inside bearing case and shaft good you can do this with a hydraulic jack or even a good wood clamp.

    To remove the old cutterhead from the jointer you will need to remove the fence assembly. This is as simple as unscrewing the large knob on top. Next loosen the two allen screws that hold the slide fence on the outfeed table. The slide fence is the cast iron piece that the fence slides back and forth on. You don't have to take the allen screws completely out. Just loosen them until you are able to lift the piece off. Next lift the cutter guard up and off. It helps if you hold the spring retainer knob to release the tension. Next take the pulley guard off. It has 4 phillips head screws holding it in place. Loosen the 2 allen screws holding the pulley on the cutterhead. I was able to wiggle the pulley enough to get it to slide off with the belt still on. Don't loose the key that keeps the pulley from spinning on the shaft. Now there are 2 bolts that hold the cutterhead in place. You can loosen the bolt located between the jointer stand and the cast iron base with a 14 mm wrench. This blot does not need to come out. It can stay in place and you will still be able to lift the cutterhead out. Loosen the back bolt. When I final got this bolt out it fall down the chip shot and into the dust collection hose. The cutterhead will now slip out the back of the table.

    Put the new cutterhead in place using the same way the old cutterhead came out. In order to avoid having to take the jointer off the stand. I decided to put the back bolt back in by pushing my arm up the chip shot. I could barley reach the hole for the bolt. The smaller your arm the easier this will be. The front bolt is still sitting in the hole so it was just a matter of lining it up and tighten it down.

    The cutterhead can be slide back and forth, front to back. The only thing that gets it in the right place is the alignment of the two bolt holes. I thought I would be nice if the two support bearings were keyed so they would sit in the bearing saddle in a certain position. It doesn't appear to be a big deal though. If you get the bolts in and tightened the head is positioned correctly. I was able to get the pulley back on the shaft of the cutterhead before working the belt around the pulley. You may want to loosen the motor mounts to tighten the belt.

    At this point I noticed the outfeed table was about 1/8 too low with the new cutterhead in place. I used a steel straight edge to get the outfeed table level with the top of the cutter bits. This was a task. The most time consuming part of this job. The adjustment knob on this part is not very good, in my opinion. The table drops very easily when the allen screws and thumb nut are loosened. I want this as perfect as my vision and tools will make it. It took me about 30 mins. Another note, when I loosened the allen screws and thumb screw on the back of the outfeed table I noticed that the table twisted (slide sideways) in it's position. This made the table higher at the back of the cutterhead then it was at the front. It was only about 1/32 of an inch but that is too much for me and I am sure most of you. Once I got the back aligned with the cutter bit I tightened the thumb nut and measured the cutter bits towards the front of the table. They were much closer but still not where I wanted them. I loosened the thumb nut a little and adjusted the table again. This took me several try's but I finial got it so I could not feel or see any difference. My vision is not all that so I hope I got it.

    I put the slide table back on. Don't tighten it down yet. Attach the fence assemble. Tighten it with the knob. This brings the slide table flush with the fence assemble and outfeed table. Now you can tighten the two allen bolts on the back of the outfeed table. This gets the slider table even with the outfeed table.

    To reinstall the cutter guard, spray some WD40 on the shaft before pushing it about half way in position. Turn the spring retainer knob to add tension and then push the guard the rest of the way in. The WD40 makes this a lot easier.

    When I started the jointer I was not impressed with the sound level. I have heard others talk about how quit this thing is. I discovered what they meant when I ran a piece of wood through. This cutterhead is about twice as quiet as the original. That's sweet. I imagine it has something to do with how sharp it is right now. My fence is a tiny bit off after all this so I will adjust it before using it on my next jewelry box project.

    So for everyone who has read this to this point. Could you recommend a good 4 or 6 inch square for aligning the table and fence. I want one of those squares that has the wooden handle and perfectly straight steel edge. Not one of the bent Home Depot brands... or maybe you have had good luck with them. Any suggestions?

    Hope this info helps someone if they decide to make the cutterhead change.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    ABQ NM
    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Turner View Post
    ...So for everyone who has read this to this point. Could you recommend a good 4 or 6 inch square for aligning the table and fence. I want one of those squares that has the wooden handle and perfectly straight steel edge. Not one of the bent Home Depot brands... or maybe you have had good luck with them. Any suggestions?...
    It's not the type you're asking about, but I use plastic drafting triangles for setting my fences and table saw blades square. Both of mine (a 30 / 60 and a 45 / 90) are leftovers from my high school days, but they are both still dead on accurate.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

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