Finishing help

Jim Burr

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Reno, Nv
Since my projects are getting bigger, Beeswax and friction polish ain't gonna cut it anymore. I see a lot of mention of wipe-on poly, etc. What is it, how is it applied? I'm used to applying my finish while spinning. I'm guessing this won't work anymore either. Whatever should I do?
 
Jim, I have used formby's tongue oil, minwas tongue oil, wipe on poly and watco danish oil. I've also used rattle can deft laquer after the oil drys. I prefer the danish oil, mostly because it is cheaper. When I run out this time I will be making my own oil...if I can find the recipe someone gave me...:huh: (yes that is a hint for someone to type it up again):eek::)
 
What's the best way to apply these finishes guys?; while spinning, in hand? Stupid question of the moment, how is wipe-on poly applied; towel, brush, HVLP?
 
Jim, I apply all my finishes while the lathe is off, but the piece is usually still on the lathe. (spray laquer is done off the lathe). I put on a large amount with a throw away brush and let it soak in. Then I wipe it off with an old t-shirt rag and repeat as needed/wanted. I will sometimes turn the lathe on and use shavings in my hands to try and add a little more luster to the piece as well.

Not a dumb question at all about the wipe on poly...but yes you just wipe it on with a rag or paper towel or if I remember correctly you can use a brush as well as long as you wipe off the excess.

I'm sure you will get loads of do and don'ts when it comes to finishing...I've tried lots and what I do works the best for me, might not for others. Good luck
 
I finish nearly everything off the lathe. I use mostly Minwax Antique Oil for a wipe-on finish. I've also used Formby's Tung Oil finish, but it doesn't seem to build up as quickly as the Antique Oil. I use spray can lacquer (or waterbased lacquer from a HVLP gun) for spray finishes.

As Jeff mentioned, the wipe-on finishes are just that...you wipe them on with a rag, let it sit for a few minutes (varies, depending on the product), then wipe off the excess.
 
Hey Jim, I used wipe on poly (Minwax) on my last few projects and like it a lot. I apply with the lathe off, then wipe, sometimes wipe with the lathe turning slowly. After several coats (4 to 6 plus light coats) over several days (I usually let it dry 24 hrs between coats) I go thru the three step Beall buff process for a smooth finish. Leaves a high shine when using gloss, a smooth deep finish when using satin.

This one was about 6 coats of Minwax Gloss, sanded or steel wooled between coats down to 0000 steel wool, Then Beall Buffed.
 

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Question to you guys who are finishing pieces still on the lathe...

How do you finish the bottoms of your pieces?
 
I apply all my finishes off the lathe except for like pens. All others are finished off the lathe. All my finishes except for deft rattle can lacquer is applied by wiping the finish on with a foam brush or a paper towel. After whatever the time the directions on the can says to leave it on the piece and then I wipe off the excess. Let dry for 24 hrs and reapply the same way.
 
Question to you guys who are finishing pieces still on the lathe...

How do you finish the bottoms of your pieces?

Usually I've cut a tenon and mounted in a 4 jaw chuck. The inside and outside will be final shaped, sanded and finished as close to the chuck as I can safely get. Then I reverse chuck in a donut chuck and shape, sand and finish the bottom. Yes, you do get some overlap in the finish, but that just buffs out -- never had a problem. I sometimes oil then finish with poly, sometimes just poly on bare wood, If you are staining or coloring the piece, then this method may not work.

Tony
 
I do it like Vaughn does, mostly off the lathe.

Say we are talking a typical bowl.

I have a vacuum rig, so I cheat and finish the whole bowl, sanding wise, top and bottom, I sand to whatever , say #400 or #600, depends on the piece.

Then I remount on the vacuum chuck and do the outside first. I apply several good coats of sanding sealer, this goes on with a white paper shop towel. I then use the 3M pad, maybe an #800, lightly.

Next I flip the bowl over and do the sanding sealer again on the inside of the bowl, finish with the #800 pad again.

The reason I do the outside first, is that if you do get some marks or such from the vacuum rig (not usually, but sometimes you do) then it is easier to hand sand them on the outside of the bowl than on the inside of the bowl.

I then get out my turntable, spray stand, painting booth and my rattle can of lacquer.

>> Good thread on the spray stand and turntable <<

The turntable and spray stand help a LOT in getting a nice finish.

I spray the lacquer on, while running the exhaust fan at max and wearing a rated respirator, and the nice thing about the lacquer is if you keep the coats light, it dries quickly, so you can get lots of coats on in a short time.

BTW, I ALWAYS use one of those handle things you attach to the rattle can, I find it really does improve my control and finish.

One of these..........
SnapSpray.jpg
Honestly, these do work, but beware of the $2 units, they are really flimsy, you need to spend the bit more for the $6 ones.

Once I'm happy with the sprayed on finish, I let it sit for a week. I know some guys get away with a lot shorter time before they buff, but I think our humidity, here in Tokyo, might have something to do with it, I always have trouble with the buffing, unless I wait a week, or more :dunno:

I only buff if I want a really glossy finish (I use the gloss lacquer too). I'm kind of hot and cold on the glossy finish, I think that sometimes it looks too "Plastic", if that makes sense.

If I don't want the glossy look, (depends on the piece and customer) then I use a semi gloss and I don't buff.

Honestly, for utilitarian pieces, I still like no finish but mineral oil, I find it the best. :dunno:

Hope this helps

Cheers!
 
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