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Wood slicer bandsaw blades any comments?

Toni Ciuraneta

Toni Ciuraneta

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Has any of you tried the mentioned blades? Are they as fantastic as they advertise specially for resawing and cutting veneers?

Any info will be greatly appreaciated

Thanks in advance.
 
toni,
i buy my carbon steel blades from ellis mfg.they`re good blades at a fair price.
to be fair i`ve never used the woodslicer because it`s about 3x the cost of what i buy and in my opinion a carbon blade is only good unitil it starts to dull..........i`d rather have three sharp blades instead of one.
 
Toni, I have a Woodslicer that I've used for resawing on my 14" (with riser block) bandsaw. It cuts slower, but smoother than any other blade I've used on this saw. If the saw is set up right, it'll cut slices out of 6"+ material that require only minimal sanding.

Tod does have a good point about buying three sharp blades for the price of one, and especially in a production environment like his, it makes sense. He has a lot better tools for smoothing up the cut afterwards than I do, though.
 
Tod, Vaughn.

Thanks for the info,I was asking because I thought about trying one, but at 29$ each plus shipping to Spain I wanted to be sure it was worth the price.

So maybe I'll leave it for later:(

BTW Vaughn. Is that "bagheadman" of your avatar you?
 
toni, look locally for a blade supplier, i`d suggest a 3t hook blade with as wide a body as your saw will support for resawing.
the species and height of the wood, wheel size of your saw and horsepower of the motor all have bearing on blade choice....
 
I used to keep Woodslicers on my 14" Jet+Riser but sold that when I got the Minimax with a Lenox Trimaster. The WS works extremely well when it's sharp but seems to dull a bit sooner than I think it should but I dont really have anything to compare it to. I was using the WS pretty much right after buying that saw. Check with Iturra (I dont think they have a website yet). I've read that they have the same blade under another name and they may have better prices than Highland Hardware. Iturra's catalog is well worth having even if you dont buy blades through them.
 
tod evans said:
toni, look locally for a blade supplier, i`d suggest a 3t hook blade with as wide a body as your saw will support for resawing.
the species and height of the wood, wheel size of your saw and horsepower of the motor all have bearing on blade choice....
Click to expand...

Thanks Tod.

What do you mean by "3T"? 3 teeth per inch? and as far as the width is concerned would you say that a rule of thumb would be: the harder the wood the wider the blade or the opposite?

Dough.
Thanks for the info, I thought that Iturra only made blade guides and similar. I'll try to get their catalog.
 
yup 3 teeth per inch..........the width has nothing to do with the wood density it`s all about tracking straight in the cut.......smaller saws don`t have the spine strength to tension a wide blade so look to your saws manufacturer for width recomendations.
 
tod evans said:
... i buy my carbon steel blades from ellis mfg. ...
Click to expand...
Tod,

Which Ellis blade is best for re-sawing?

I've used the 1/2" Woodslicer for several years and really liked it, but it needs sharpening or replacing. I started with a 3/4" Timberwolf before the WS, but the WS outperformed it.
 
Vaughn McMillan said:
It's probably someone you would know only if you watched a lot of American TV:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unknown_Comic
Click to expand...

Cool! My brothers and I used to watch The Gong Show religiously down in the basement after school - until Mom hid the TV (almost in plain sight, as it turned out!) and we had to go without for a couple months. This would have been around 1977.

I wonder why the Wikipedia entry for "Gene Gene the Dancing Machine" (from the same show) doesn't have a photo of him? :(
 
Bill Arnold said:
Tod,

Which Ellis blade is best for re-sawing?

I've used the 1/2" Woodslicer for several years and really liked it, but it needs sharpening or replacing. I started with a 3/4" Timberwolf before the WS, but the WS outperformed it.
Click to expand...

bill, resawing what on what machine? if you`re looking for a finish cut off the saw i do not get one.......even with a trimaster and feeder..but if you call ellis with the tooth geometry you`re currently using they should be able to get close so you can compare apples to apples..
outperformed how? cut quality or longivity......bandsaw blade life is in the first fraction of an inch at the tip of the tooth, the gullets only remove sawdust...the tooth set and angle of contact will affect finish cut and the body width will help stabilize the blade in the cut as well as dissapate heat from the tooth tips......
in the end bandsaw blades are a disposable item and should be treated as such;)..
 
tod evans said:
bill, resawing what on what machine? if you`re looking for a finish cut off the saw i do not get one... ...
Click to expand...
Tod,

I have a G0513 17" bandsaw and hand-feed the stock. I don't get a finish cut with a good Woodslicer, but it's smoother than the Timberwolf by a long shot. Depending on what I'm re-sawing, I still have to take some light cuts in the planer or maybe only a few passes through the drum sander.

I don't have any problem with the price tag on the WS, but sure like to save money when I can.
 
bill, i`m not sure but i think that saw claims to tighten a 3/4" blade?
try a few 1/2" blades......at 10-12 bucks each you might be impressed......if not you`re not out much.
 
Bill Arnold said:
...I don't get a finish cut with a good Woodslicer, but it's smoother than the Timberwolf by a long shot. Depending on what I'm re-sawing, I still have to take some light cuts in the planer or maybe only a few passes through the drum sander.

I don't have any problem with the price tag on the WS, but sure like to save money when I can.
Click to expand...
That's my experience exactly. My 1/2" Woodslicer cuts much smoother than either the 1/2" or 3/4" Timberwolf blades that Suffolk sold me for resawing. I don't have a good planer or wide format sander, so the smoother cut is worth the extra cost of the blade to me. My resawing has been in small amounts and short lengths, so my blade is still cutting well after having owned it for a couple of years. I know it'll need replacement, but when it does, I reckon I'll have gotten my money's worth out of it.
 
Bill Arnold said:
I have a G0513 17" bandsaw and hand-feed the stock. I don't get a finish cut with a good Woodslicer, but it's smoother than the Timberwolf by a long shot. Depending on what I'm re-sawing, I still have to take some light cuts in the planer or maybe only a few passes through the drum sander.

I don't have any problem with the price tag on the WS, but sure like to save money when I can.
Click to expand...

Mine's a Laguna 16", with the ¾" Woodslicer, and just this morning I resawed about 25 feet of cherry and walnut for half inch stock. One fairly light pass through the planer was all it needed. Probably would have needed two or three passes it I'd used the performax instead of the planer.
 
Iturra sells blades called "Blade Runner" which is made from the same black stock as the WoodSlicer. FWIW, the maker of the blade stock is Atlanta Sharptech (www.sharptech.com).

ANYWAY, Louis at Iturra sells them much less expensively than Highland and the welds are fantastic.

He (Louis) can be hard to get ahold of, but is a great guy.
 
The Woodslicer (and Bladerunner) are particularly helpful if you have an underpowered bandsaw, since they cut a very thin kerf that takes less power. I have been impressed at how smooth the cut is, but note that it is not good for green stock, and not good for curves, even those a 1/2" blade can usually do readily. I think the reason it seems to dull a bit more quickly than some blades is that the quality of its cut requires a sharper blade than does a blade with more tooth set. I have resharpened my Woodslicer with a diamond burr in a rotary tool, and the blade again cuts very well. The Bladerunner costs about 2/3 as much as the Woodslicer, and it looks identical.
 
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