Highland Woodworking Woodturner's Blade

Looks pretty much like the 3 TPI blades I use from Suffolk Machinery. It also looks like the only similarity between this one and the Woodslicer is they are both bandsaw blades. This has a different tooth set, blade gage, and TPI. ;)

I do agree the price looks decent. It's a bit less than Suffolk charges for essentially the same thing. (When Suffolk is having their "buy three, get one free" sale, they come out a bit ahead.

I wore out my last 1/2" 3TPI green wood blade, so right now I'm using my 3/4" 3TPI until I buy some more thin ones. I might just have to try this one. I'm also thinking of trying the ones from Ellis Mfg, as Tod recommends.
 
of course I'm considering the twolf blades as well, I've got to wait for the war-chest to restock next week either way(went to my hardwood dealer for some walnut today... and a piece of lyptus followed me home too, as well as some anchor seal). I just spotted them on Highland's site, and thought I'd ask.

Same source is the only connection I can see between the wood slicer and woodturner's blade as well.
 
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Ned that looks like the 3/8" X 3AS alternate set I get from Suffolk Machinery or Timberwolf blade. I have been using it on green wood bowl blanks now for about a 1 1/2 yrs. and it is still cutting pretty good. When I cut the big stuff over 8" thick I use the 1/2" X 3AS alternate set. It does a great job on big stuff up to 12 1/2".
 
Ned that looks like the 3/8" X 3AS alternate set I get from Suffolk Machinery or Timberwolf blade. I have been using it on green wood bowl blanks now for about a 1 1/2 yrs. and it is still cutting pretty good. When I cut the big stuff over 8" thick I use the 1/2" X 3AS alternate set. It does a great job on big stuff up to 12 1/2".

Do you know if Suffolk or Timberwolf make custom sizes? I have a 1950's machine that takes 78" and I've only found one source that is decently priced for costum work.

Thanks,
Jon
 
Do you know if Suffolk or Timberwolf make custom sizes? I have a 1950's machine that takes 78" and I've only found one source that is decently priced for costum work.

Thanks,
Jon
They specialize in custom sizes. :) Their pricing is by the inch, and I suspect they don't make your blade until you order it.
 
highland tools bandsaw blades

I have been useing them for about two yrs,they are heavier than most blades.I had one break on me (my fault) I called to order another one and told em what happened and they said no problem and I had a new one in three days (no charge)I have been dealing with highland tools long before I started turning,I use the woodslicer also and love them both.I used to buy the high dollar carbide tip blades for over a hundred bucks each,NO more.You can't beat the blade and the service is 2nd to none.
Ken
 
Personally, I do not like 3 tpi blades. Might be my fault for not feeding fast enough, I dunno :dunno: , but I have had catches that kinked the blade with 3s. For my resawing blade, I now use a 3/4"X4tpi T'Wolf and like it a lot. Smooth and fast cutting. My 3/8" general purpose is a 6 tpi.
 
Frank, 3/4" blade might be a bit to wide for cutting bowl blanks, unless you are cutting bigger stuff. The smallest bowl blank you can get with this size is around 11"

Now, if you are just resawing wood in a 14" bandsaw, 3/4" blade will be fine. Which BTW, is the max a bandsaw this size could handle.

BTW, a 3/8" blade will let you cut a 4" bowl blank.
 
bandsaw blades

Personally, I do not like 3 tpi blades. Might be my fault for not feeding fast enough, I dunno :dunno: , but I have had catches that kinked the blade with 3s. For my resawing blade, I now use a 3/4"X4tpi T'Wolf and like it a lot. Smooth and fast cutting. My 3/8" general purpose is a 6 tpi.

Frank have you got the tension set tight enough ,guide blocks aligned properly? they have to be set center of the blade,but not hitting the teeth,plus you don't want any slack on either side of the blade.These blades are pretty thick and I cut a lot of stuff where I can't lay the wood flat and I havn't had that problem.I just use the 3 tpi for cutting bowl blanks and rough trimming and the woodslicer for resawing.The kinking problem would not be caused by going to slow,as you should not try an feed to fast,just take your time and let the blade cut at its own pace without forcing the wood,just go slow for the best results.Hope this helps out.

Ken
 
Frank I have that blade on my big Griz and never had it kink on me. I am betting that you don't have your blade tensioned properly and/or blade guides set properly. I did kink a blade once and that was the cause. Don't think feeding it to slow will cause it to kink.

Jon, yes they do make custom sizes.
 
It has more to do with blade tension than with the blade guides.

I remove the upper blade guides to cut 7-1/2" stock where I can only cut 6" with the guides.

Just for clarification, this is not something an amateur should do.
 
Ron, Ken, Bernie, that happened, twice, when trying to cut smaller stock like under 1" thick. I'm pretty certain my tension is good and adjustments likewise. I rarely, if ever, cut softer, wet woods. My stuff is usually dry and hard walnut, maple, Osage Orange, etc. And, I don't try tight radii (radiuses?) with the 3/4", I understand limits. But with the four toofer things are happy. Previous problem gone. Why risk going back?
 
Frank, the 3 TPI is better suited for wet woods. You're right to stay with the higher tooth counts for your dried walnut, maple, and osage concrete. :)
 
I wore out my last 1/2" 3TPI green wood blade, so right now I'm using my 3/4" 3TPI until I buy some more thin ones. /QUOTE]

Me too, but it kills me to use my re-saw blade just because I don't have another sharp 1/2" or 3/8" blade. I've got the 3/4" pretty dull now so I'll have to stock up again soon.

Speaking of resaw blades, a prominent member on that other forum has stated a couple of times that a dedicated resaw blade should never be used to cut curves...that it will never saw straight again after cutting a curve.

Does anyone here also subscribe to that position? I've never read that anywhere else.
 
...Me too, but it kills me to use my re-saw blade just because I don't have another sharp 1/2" or 3/8" blade. I've got the 3/4" pretty dull now so I'll have to stock up again soon.

Speaking of resaw blades, a prominent member on that other forum has stated a couple of times that a dedicated resaw blade should never be used to cut curves...that it will never saw straight again after cutting a curve.

Does anyone here also subscribe to that position? I've never read that anywhere else.
My resaw blade is a 1/2" Woodslicer, and I've only used it for straight stuff. (I hadn't read not to, though.)

I think the 3/4" blade I'm using now for bowl blanks is one that Suffolk sold me as a resaw blade (the 3TPI AS-S), but I like the Woodslicer better. I figured I may as well use it until I get the next blade order in. It works OK for green wood, and I'm not trying to cut curves much...more like cutting lots of small straights.
 
Speaking of resaw blades, a prominent member on that other forum has stated a couple of times that a dedicated resaw blade should never be used to cut curves...that it will never saw straight again after cutting a curve.

Does anyone here also subscribe to that position? I've never read that anywhere else.

cody, i use whatever blade i have on the saw for what i`m cuttin`......if i need to cut lotsa scroll work then i`ll change out blades on my little saw but for onesies-n-twosies i`ll just nibble awat with the blade that`s on the saw.
i`ve not noticed any performance difference in my resaw blade and i use it to cut curves in stuff.
 
I know that most of the members here favor the Timbewolf or other higher end blades, but on one of the forums I frequent, one member wrote that he had spoke with T'Wolf and was told that most blades would only last for about 200 BF before they dulled... I tend to use the blades from the box stores (Brand name is Vermont, I think) because of the cost and convenience of being able to pick them up as I need them.. I haven't tried any of the higher end blades yet.

I don't do any resawing yet.. I still need a proper fence for my saw.
 
I use the Highland 3/8 Woodturners blade for green turning wood and it works great! Better than other blades I haved used. I have a 14" Delta BS with riser block with 1 HP motor.
 
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