Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 31

Thread: Crosscut chipping on oak ply - how to avoid - morphed from Duraline post.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Constantine, MI
    Posts
    7,890

    Question Crosscut chipping on oak ply - how to avoid - morphed from Duraline post.

    This was the "Forrest Duraline" thread, but it morphed into "how to avoid chipping when crosscutting oak ply".

    Anyone have experience with this blade?

    Forrest Duraline Blade Hi-A/T 10" x 80 Tooth

    I have a Woodworker II that I love, but I'm cutting up some $120 a sheet plywood. The WWII does a very good job on veneers for a combo blade, but there is some minor chipping. Normally I would not mind too much if it's really minor, but this is for a customer and the ply will be edged in solid oak. I really don't want to have any chips ruining that mating edge.

    If I chip out the veneer and have to buy another sheet I will have nearly covered the cost of the blade and have nothng to show for it but scrap.

    What say yee older and wiser (well, maybe just wiser) woodworkers?
    Last edited by Rennie Heuer; 11-12-2008 at 01:19 PM. Reason: Changed title to keep up with morphing thread
    Host of the 2017 Family Woodworking Gathering - Sunken Wood

    “We all die. The goal isn't to live forever; the goal is to create something that will.” - Chuck Palahniuk
    www.wrworkshop.com

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Delton, Michigan
    Posts
    17,471
    rennie you can make a bad cut with any brand of blade,, i have the ww2 combo and feel the frueds do as well in the upper line of there blades. keep the good side up and have your saw set right and you should be good to go. plus you could still joint to get a smoooth edge. say on your RT or jointer.
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Constantine, MI
    Posts
    7,890
    Quote Originally Posted by larry merlau View Post
    rennie you can make a bad cut with any brand of blade,, i have the ww2 combo and feel the frueds do as well in the upper line of there blades. keep the good side up and have your saw set right and you should be good to go. plus you could still joint to get a smoooth edge. say on your RT or jointer.
    I don't remember having a lot of success jointing plywood - but it's worth a shot. I might try that on some scrap tonight and see how it works. Even so, if the veneer chips out further back than 1/32" jointing the edge won't help.
    Host of the 2017 Family Woodworking Gathering - Sunken Wood

    “We all die. The goal isn't to live forever; the goal is to create something that will.” - Chuck Palahniuk
    www.wrworkshop.com

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Constantine, MI
    Posts
    7,890
    I spoke to Charles at Forrest and he suggested I first try setting the blade much lower, a little more than the top tooth showing, and use a slower feed rate. So, before I drop that cash, I think I'll do some trial cuts tonight and see if I can get the WWII to perform just a wee bit better.
    Host of the 2017 Family Woodworking Gathering - Sunken Wood

    “We all die. The goal isn't to live forever; the goal is to create something that will.” - Chuck Palahniuk
    www.wrworkshop.com

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    417
    Quote Originally Posted by Rennie Heuer View Post
    I spoke to Charles at Forrest and he suggested I first try setting the blade much lower, a little more than the top tooth showing, and use a slower feed rate. So, before I drop that cash, I think I'll do some trial cuts tonight and see if I can get the WWII to perform just a wee bit better.
    Let us know what you find out, I would be interested to see if the blade height made the difference.
    Rise above the rest

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Rochester
    Posts
    846
    Hi Rennie - I've tried the Duraline 100T. It makes an excellent cut, like any top notch Hi-ATB blade (Freud LU80, Infinity Ultrasmooth, Ridge Carbide), and would indeed be ideal for expensive veneered ply. However, given the cost of the blade, it's limited functional range, and the fact that there are other methods to achieve the same result, I'd wouldn't recommend the Duraline as the best possible solution unless you plan to do a lot more of this type of work.

    I'd score the cut with your WWII first, use a new ZCI, and see how you make out. If you happen to be in the market for a new blade and think you might like to improve your ply cutting capability, keep your eyes peeled for a good deal on a Hi-ATB blade...maybe even a general purpose Hi-ATB like the Infinity Super General or Freud Fusion.
    Got Wood?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Constantine, MI
    Posts
    7,890
    Quote Originally Posted by scott spencer View Post
    Hi Rennie - I've tried the Duraline 100T. It makes an excellent cut, like any top notch Hi-ATB blade (Freud LU80, Infinity Ultrasmooth, Ridge Carbide), and would indeed be ideal for expensive veneered ply. However, given the cost of the blade, it's limited functional range, and the fact that there are other methods to achieve the same result, I'd wouldn't recommend the Duraline as the best possible solution unless you plan to do a lot more of this type of work.

    I'd score the cut with your WWII first, use a new ZCI, and see how you make out. If you happen to be in the market for a new blade and think you might like to improve your ply cutting capability, keep your eyes peeled for a good deal on a Hi-ATB blade...maybe even a general purpose Hi-ATB like the Infinity Super General or Freud Fusion.
    Thanks Scott - sound advice. I'm going to try what the fellow at Forrest recommended. I'm hoping that works and I can save some serious change!
    I don't anticipate a lot of expensive ply cutting beyond the job I'm working on now, so it would be good to save the money for something I'd get more use out of. Like a router for my 'someday' router table.
    Host of the 2017 Family Woodworking Gathering - Sunken Wood

    “We all die. The goal isn't to live forever; the goal is to create something that will.” - Chuck Palahniuk
    www.wrworkshop.com

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Odessa, Tx
    Posts
    1,813
    Quote Originally Posted by Rennie Heuer View Post
    I spoke to Charles at Forrest and he suggested I first try setting the blade much lower, a little more than the top tooth showing, and use a slower feed rate. So, before I drop that cash, I think I'll do some trial cuts tonight and see if I can get the WWII to perform just a wee bit better.
    Rennie, blade height can make a difference "sometimes", but the thing that I have found that seems to be the worst culprit for causing chipping, (if the blade is good AND sharp, is if the blade is just a smidgeon OFF from parallel to the Fence OR Mitre track, and the blade as it comes up through the cut on the back end will catch the top vaneer of the ply and cause chipping. You might double check that setup to see if it is Off just a tad, and like Larry said, (which I'm sure you know) cut with the Good side UP when cutting on a TS.

    It really is Frustrating cutting today's plywoods when I can remember making several boxes for tools and test equipment for my uncle (42 years ago) just using plain old AC Plywood and cutting it on a 10" Craftsman contractors saw (set up outside in my Dad's backyard), using a Sears craftsman crosscut blade set VERY HIGH, and every cut was perfectly smooth without one chip or sawblade mark and the cuts looked like what you would expect on a good quality hardwood that had been planed with a jointer handplane. I think our tools "May" have gotten better, but the WOOD products sure haven't.

    Good Luck.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Plainwell, Michigan
    Posts
    4,857
    Will painters tape on both sides of the ply where the cut line will be help with chipping?

    Tom

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Constantine, MI
    Posts
    7,890
    Quote Originally Posted by Norman Hitt View Post
    if the blade is good AND sharp, is if the blade is just a smidgeon OFF from parallel to the Fence OR Mitre track, and the blade as it comes up through the cut on the back end will catch the top vaneer of the ply and cause chipping. You might double check that setup to see if it is Off just a tad
    I took several evenings last week to double check the set up on every tool I'd be using for this project - including building a miter guage slot base for my dial caliper. The fence was just a bit off, but I thought I fixed it. I'll check again. Perhaps toe out a few thousanths? It's really hard to tell sometimes because the material we use as facing is not so flat as to not give various readings across its length.

    I put a 3/4" phenolic plywood face on my rip fence because the UHMW was getting a bit chewed up. Even the phenolic varies a few thousanths as I slide the guage down the slot.

    It's all very frustrating at times.
    Host of the 2017 Family Woodworking Gathering - Sunken Wood

    “We all die. The goal isn't to live forever; the goal is to create something that will.” - Chuck Palahniuk
    www.wrworkshop.com

Similar Threads

  1. A Morphed Box
    By Al Launier in forum Off Topic Discussion
    Replies: 21
    Last Post: 02-09-2014, 09:44 PM
  2. how can I stop cherry from splintering/chipping out
    By allen levine in forum General Woodworking Q&A
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 05-08-2012, 02:19 AM
  3. Delta TP305 - is it possible to avoid snipe?
    By jesper kristiansen in forum New Tools
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 12-26-2009, 07:47 AM
  4. trying to avoid hand grenades
    By Mark Kosmowski in forum Off Topic Discussion
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 03-16-2009, 07:44 PM
  5. Avoid the Doghouse this Gift-giving Season
    By glenn bradley in forum Off Topic Discussion
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 12-14-2008, 07:32 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •