Crosscut chipping on oak ply - how to avoid - morphed from Duraline post.

Rennie et al,

I've never tried this, but what if you cut with the blade slightly above the ply, but with some 1 X 4 on top of the cut to cover the blade, and keep good pressure on it at the point of the cut? I think you'd want a piece as long or longer than the ply cut you were making, and cut a kerf in the 1 X 4 when cutting the ply, not all the way through. Would it help keep the edge of the ply from being chipped? Kind of like a ZCI on top of the board? It might pose some safety issues with kick back, so cutting your piece 1/8" over size, and using this method on the last 1/8" to get to the final size might be a lot safer. Anyone think this might be doable? Might be something else to try a test cut on with some scrap. Jim.
 
I skip the tape and just draw an X-acto knife down the line. You don't have to cut real deep, just score the line. I don't do a lot of ply but when I do this gave me a dramatic improvement. It worked so well I use the technique on precision x-cuts in some hardwoods like red oak and ash as well with excellent results.

I score using the TS with the saw blade raised ~ 1/8" above the table, then cut fully with the blade raised higher. Rennie, did you score using a knife or the saw blade? Did you still have tearout?
 
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Score! (Well, scored)

OK - got home tonight a stole a few minutes in the shop to try scoring the ply prior to the cut. Hign blade, scored.....Here's how it looks.
High blade scored (800 x 220).jpg High blade scored close up (800 x 757).jpg
Not a bad looking cut :D
Here's the high blade without scoring, just painter's tape.
High, with tape - Copy.jpg High, with tape close up (800 x 533).jpg
Some difference :eek: not a lot.

Interesting find though. The next picture is of the cut off from the opposite side of the blade - the left side in this case. This was not scored. Looks pretty good!
High blade opposite side (800 x 175).jpg
Well, even under all this magnification the cuts look good. So, taking the advice of Larry, Tod, and many of the rest of you, I think the formula is set the blade high and at least use tape, but score if you can!:D
 
Thanks for taking us thru this process Rennie. Great info on cutting ply. If anyone would figure out the best process to find the best way, it would be you :thumb: Thanks for documenting the process it will make it easier for at least me. By the way, why did'nt you do this about a year ago? would have saved me some chip out :p

thanks Tom
 
hey rennie, sorry, i was meaning for you to cut the ply good face down when using the zci...


for some reason i can't view your latest result, pics not pulling up....but others think they look good so do what works.

chris
 
Thanks for taking us thru this process Rennie. Great info on cutting ply. If anyone would figure out the best process to find the best way, it would be you :thumb: Thanks for documenting the process it will make it easier for at least me. By the way, why did'nt you do this about a year ago? would have saved me some chip out :p

thanks Tom
:( The story of my life - always a day late and a dollar short.:rofl:

I'd be pretty happy with results like those Rennie! :thumb:
Thanks Scott - Oak ply must be the hardest to get a clean cut on. I'm just glad I can get these results without having to drop $100+ on a new blade.:eek:

hey rennie, sorry, i was meaning for you to cut the ply good face down when using the zci...


for some reason i can't view your latest result, pics not pulling up....but others think they look good so do what works.

chris
Sorry you can't see the pic Chris. I should have understood your reference to the ZCI, sorry. I'm a bit slow sometimes. For now, I'm pretty happy with good side up and the back side will be hidden on my current project so it's not that important to me right now. Next time? :dunno::D
 
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