Dining Table build-40x60 inch

Whew i am all sweaty

from all you got done today allen,,great day in the neighborhood:thumb: i am not a table expert and i think norman is much better at it than i am by far but i dont think you need another support for your top.. and just in case i heard it right you dont want to mortise your top to your aprons..you need to allow for top movement..the long way wont be much but the width will move..from the humidity...i would suggest using the metal figure 8 brackets.. also while i am on a rol here how di you cut the mortises?? they look great. i did as you asked allen earlier you should get a reply soon:thumb::thumb: great job today hip hip hhorahh:thumb:
 
I'm with Larry...I got worn out just reading about all the work you got done. :thumb: Good to see you had a better day in the shop today.
 
I have to cut a straight edge on each end of the table, and cut it down to size............do I have to build a giant sled?
(Is there a reason I cant use a metal straight edge and a circular saw?)


Just a thought here Allen....for a clean straight finished edge on your table top you could first - use your circular saw to cut "close" (say within 1/16") of your finished size, and then second - using a straight edge as a guide you could finish the edge with a straight cutting bit in your router. The bit should be a flush cutting bit with a bearing to run along the straight edge.

It's looking pretty good so far - keep the pictures coming!!!

cheers

John
 
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mortises with the Delta Drill press mortise attachment.(I cut over 100 with the ipe, and struggled through each one, the mahogany cut light warm butter)

As embarrassed as I am to admit this, I looked throughmy skimpy collection of router bits, and I have only one really cheap flush cutting bit wide enough, one that came in a 25 dollar set of something like 4 or 5 bits, I never used any of them only the roundover for cheap pressure treated.(it was bought the first few weeks I owned a router)
I wouldnt trust it to do the right job.
Another thing I need to update , the basic 7-10 router bits.
 
Not a reason in the world, Allen. Just be sure when using the Circular saw that you place the Top (face) side down so any splintering would be on the bottom side, (unless you are going to use a router to put a decorative edge around the top side edges, then you would put the bottom side down and the routing would get rid of any splintering on the top edge of the cut).

(I almost always use a Circular Saw and a straight edge to cut off the ends of table tops) I do lay out and mark the cut line, (and sometimes scribe that line to prevent tearout) before making the cut with the CS.

PS: Use a GOOD SHARP crosscut blade in your CS.

To add to this Allen I would also use blue painter tape. Place the tape down on the edge you are going to cut then press it down snug to the surface. Mark your line of cut through the tape and cut through the tape. It will help minimize the tearout.
 
allen, let me start with a disclaimer...i have not tried this...ok onto my idea

this is probably not original, i am sure i must have seen it somewhere because i am not that creative. but there has been talk lately about placing tape on cut lines to reduce tear out.

so what if you had a scrap piece of plywood, let's say as long as your top is wide and wide enough to support the circular saw. clamp this piece to the top of the table top, place your line on the scrap piece based on where you want to cut the top. and cut away. basically it would work like a chip breaker.

anyone ever tried this? it seems like it would work great, but i don't recall too many people talking about doing it this way.

hopefully that explanation was clear allen.


table is looking great so far. just remember, if woodworking wasn't challenging it would not be as fun, it's just hard to remember that when you are in the moment.


chris
 
I can thank my lucky stars the client(my wife) is not as demanding in table tops as she is other things.
I started off with glueing up the legs and aprons, kept using a square angle but couldnt seem to get it 100% so I figured the length of the legs versus the amount of pressure on the top joints, so I just cut 2x4s to act as spacers on the bottom, and then I was satisfied.wood stuff 334 (Medium).jpg


Then being the dope I am, or maybe I should just say novice, I carefully practiced using the circular saw, made straight cuts in some old ply, used a straight edge, all was fine.
I had 4 extra inches on the table length, I planned it like that, so I could size it down with one clean cut.
I clamped the guide 2 inches in one side, and the cut was bad. Seems the circular saw, well, me, I turned the back of the saw off the guide and messed up the cut.
No problem, I still have 2 inches.
Recut 1 inch, and I dont know how, but I cut ends shy, maybe 3/32nd on both ends. Strange, I guess I just turned my wrist somehow. I left that side, went to next side, cut off the last inch, same thing. The center is fine, but I seemed to not be able to get it straight on ends. wood stuff 339 (Medium).jpgI guess Im off, maybe this is why I havent used a circular saw for much besides ruff cutting plywood.(picture is bad, but theres space between the straight edge and end of table)
so now I have a bit less than 60 inches, and a slightly shorter ends, lengthwise, on all four sides. I showed the client, she said IM crazy, to leave it alone, dont touch it. This bad cut is driving me up a wall, but Im afraid to trim anymore off.
I actually called the guy who sold me the wood today, to ask him if he could suggest a way to finish the table.
I expected him to be a bit angry since he doesnt need to be speaking to me on the phone and taking time out of his worktime, but he was eager to help me.(next top I bring to him when Im done with glueup, hell cut it on that Altendorf moving table, its bigger than my entire garage, and I know it will be perfectly straight.)
I cut a sample piece to ask wife how she wants the top edges, she liked the half inch roundover(I think its half inch).wood stuff 340 (Medium).jpg
Tried to get a shot of how straight the top actually came out.wood stuff 341 (Medium).jpg
Im sorry about quality again of pics, when I try to hold camera in one hand, the camera shakes.
couple shots of the table top bottom, the nice looking grain of the mahogany.
 

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just a couple more pics of the table put together, before I do any sanding or cleaning. I wiped down the surface with a touch of mineral spirits to show the old growth vs typical boards.wood stuff 342 (Medium).jpg
I dig this wood.
Before I make any other destructive moves, I just wanted to make sure it sits well and even.wood stuff 344 (Medium).jpg
Ill round out tiny curve on all corners(with sander only, no cutting), route over roundover tomorrow, and then start prep work for finishing.
I have one bad spot on top of table, and I dont understand why.wood stuff 347 (Medium).jpg
Wood was all glued up solid, I checked every seam all the way from end to end, and when I flipped the top to see the top, besides some dings and small scracthes which if I cant sand out, Ill have to live with, I noticed this 1.5 inch sliver gap.
I could go with the varnish sawdust mix, or Im thinking put a sliver a hair thin with glue and let it dry then sand it down.(oh, I got 2 feet of slivers from trying to make a board straight)
Is there anything I can do for that bad spot, Im open as usual for suggestions.
 

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This will be the last mention of this until I finish it.
I sanded down the top today to see how it looks.
(just the top side)
All the rough wood looks identical, a reddish brown shade.
Once Ive planed it and sanded it, theres a drastic difference in a few pieces.
One is dark brown, one is light tan, others are pinkish to pinkish brown.
There were something like pin holes in one piece, maybe 8-12 holes, smaller than finishing nail holes, just like pin size, and a seam opened a hairline on one piece,(around 2inches, must have been when I sanded out the burn marks) and one seam is showing a bit of glue, although it seems straight and right.
I mixed together some fine sawdust powder fromthe orbital sander and some glue, see if that works.
Other than that, I guess Ill be sanding for a week, then Ill have to figure out where to start brushing on the varnish.\
Wife already told me no way in the back room, and I have a very small house.
I have a 1500 sq foot basement in my business, but there is zero ventilation, so Im not sure where Im going to brush.
Id like to thank everyone who offered me help and advice, alot of you put me in the right direction. Thankyou.
 
hey allen,, wize ole guy

told me once that you can lead a mule to water but you cant make him drink,,:D:rofl: we the "family" just treid to lead you to water you made the decision to drink and your doing fine at it... dont shut us out now:eek: sanding and finishing is something everyone does and can always learn more about from others..
 
it looks like I sprikled some fairy dust all over it.
Aint nothing pretty about sanding and sanding and sanding.
dont egg me on, Ill post more pics and more woodworkers will start tuning up their golf games.
But, Im having alot of fun for an old beat up overthehill guy.
 
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so I decided after hours and hours of sanding, doing more damage than good, its time to forget about the bottom, and just start coating the bottom to see how things come out.
After reading the suggestions here, and the suggestions I got from the guy who sold me the wood, I kinda wondered why everyone keeps telling me to spray on lacquer, something I cant do, dont have equipment, dont know how to spray, and this is my learning process. Ill never know anything unless I try things first, fail, try again, fail a few more times, then maybe get it half right.

I want to take a second out to thank everyone who suggested things.
I just want them to understand I have zero experience with any type of wood finishes, except outdoor spar varnish which I slop on and sand lightly and Im done.
I rubbed on MinWaxes rubon Poly for the side table and little liquor cabinet I made, but didnt want a rub on satin finish for this table.

I went with Varathane, the floor stuff. (2 people mentioned this, one here and one I spoke with near my home)
The only thing I remember clearly, warned about whatever I decide to use, from the guy who sold me the wood, is that whatever I do to one side, absolutely must be done to the other side.

So I sanded the table bottom, just using the orbital with 80 grit, mainly to get off all the excess glue.
When I started to go to 120 grit, I decided what a waste, its a bottom, as long as its somewhat smooth, Im not killing myself.
So I purchased a Varathane brand brush, it was convenient, and only 8 dollars, and Im sure its good quality for their product.
I had to bring the tabletop into my home to coat. Its too cold, and instructions clearly state above 55 degrees.
Noone is happy about that, but I promised to have it out before weds when everyone is home.
First coat, thin, even as I could. (look at that grain pop on the old growth, too bad I didnt have 50 board feet of that)
Ill let each coat dry for at least 24 hours, sand with 220-300 grit paper, then recoat. Im using the bottom as a test, Ill go for 3 coats, if it looks good, Ill flip it, fine sand the top, then start coating the top.(I know this surface still has some bad marks, I didnt bother, its the bottom)
 

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Im not complaining about my options for sanding, I sanded out the base almost entirely by hand, getting into corners was tuff.
This is my only choice presently to use.(this is not the finishing sanders or tools of someone that knows what hes doing)
The sunbeam is older than me, but its great for smoothing out rough surfaces on my outdoor stuff, its just a bit heavy.
Ive only used the orbital and the sanding block on the table top.
I dont dare take out that belt sander, Id be sanding through till the floor stopped me, and then some.
 

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spent alot of time trying to repair every nook and cranny, pin hole size holes, dents, and one bad seam(one of the 2 boards I didnt trim down to 3.5 inches)
Im not sure if it was my clamping, or my cutting, since it seems all the other joints were good, I think I just needed to clamp more pressure on top. I dont know, live and learn, I guess a jointer will help me eventually.

After filling in with poly/sawdust paste, and sanding, and sanding, up to 400 grit, I thought it was smooth and looked good enough.
So I put the first coat of Varathane, carefully, and ofcourse, a huge slit of glue is showing. (My first attempt at repairing the seam, I tried a glue/sawdust mix, which was a disaster, the color was way off)
I dont know how I missed this few inches, (its in the center of first picture)
I hope I get a bit better with each build.
The sides came out better than I expected, I sanded them down straight, no burn marks, then rounded them over and hand formed a bit of a curved corner.More pictures since Larry oks said he wanted to see the progress somewhere.

Im not sure now if I should have tried to stain them all similar shades, but my wife says she loves it the way it is.
I didnt realize the coloring of the wood, looked all almost exactly the same could come out so different.

I will sand down with 320 or 400 grit, with my orbital sander, 2-3 coats, then fine sand the next 2 or 3 coats only.
Something like a filler kind of thing, Im not really sure, but this is what I read.
 

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If your wife say's she loves it the way it is, SUCCESS!!!:thumb::thumb::thumb:. That is all anyone can ask for...a happy customer:). All in all Allen, the table is looking great.
Where you are doing the finishing, is that the final home for the table as well?

Tom
 
I was forced to take all the cushions off the window seat in the back den, move the coffee table, and covered the floor with some plastic sheets.(crack open 2 windows)
WE are ripping up all the floors in our house next year, getting wood floors, so Im not worried about the carpet that much, just dont want to make huge mess.
It was just a bit too cold outside to do any varnishing. The smell isnt that bad, and I do it all before noon, so when my wife and son get home from work, the varnish is almost dry to touch and smell vanishes a bit.
The table will go on the other side of the kitchen, in the front room.
I have a tiny house, a small cape. So its either the front room or rear extension room.
 
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Your doin fine allen:thumb: the sandin in between coats on the last few should be done by hand if you have it right you wil only have to knock of the nibs from dust then
 
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