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Thread: Mahogony finishing...

  1. #1

    Mahogony finishing...

    I'm going to be starting my first foray into finishing Mahogony... the pieces i have are quite red with beautiful grain patterns.

    I know to use grain filler... but what's next? Does somebody have a good description for somebody that's VERY green at finishing wood?

    My previous experience has been just using the minwax poly-stain products... the piece i'm building is too nice for such basic treatment, so i'd like to do something new.

    I have scrap to play on, so I'm not scared about trying something new.

    I'd like to do something to bring the reds through, as well as enhance the grain.

    -J

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Thomasville, GA
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    5,992
    A lot of folks are more knowledgeable about finishing than I am, but I've done a couple of items. I recently finished a mantel top I made from mahogany. The first step was some Transtint dye to tone down the redness a bit. I sealed the dye with a couple of coats of dewaxed shellac. Next, I applied two coats of waterborne sealer and then topcoated with two coats of waterborne conversion varnish. Looks great.
    Bill Arnold
    Citizen of Texas residing in Georgia.
    NRA Life Member and Member of Mensa
    My Weather Underground station

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Floydada, Tx
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    1,941
    Wgat are use going to use for a finish? Different finishes need diferent steps. I use oil mostly and will sand the wood to around 320 for the first coat and 600 for the second coat. This will leave a glass smooth finish.

  4. #4
    Honestly I'm not sure what final finish I want to use... that's part of the advice I'm looking for.

    I'd like a very smooth either semi-gloss finish. The top on the table I'm building will be corian, the legs and rails are what need finishing.

    -J

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Mountain Home, Arkansas
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    11,825
    Tod will jump in here. He knows a thing or three about finishing mahogany.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    new york city burbs
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    10,188
    wow, this is something of high interest for me.


  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Mountain Home, Arkansas
    Posts
    11,825
    Tod must be busy installing these days. He was working on a very large overhead thing for a window seat last time I was at his shop. Beautiful. Don't know how he handles a lot of that stuff by himself. But, I digress.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    ozarks
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    i`m here.....been busy
    i really need more information on what the wood in question is being used for and what type of equipment and experience the finisher has to work with.
    whether or not fumes from the finish curing will cause problems...etc..

    for the o/p on legs-n-apron of a corian topped table i`d suggest a solvent based gym floor poly applied with a good brush, thin the first and maybe second coats 50% then lightly sand and apply full strength successive coats sanding between coats untill the desired luster is achieved......
    now for folks with spray equipment the whole drill changes `cause i really hate poly
    [SIZE="1"] associated with several importers and manufacturers.[/SIZE]

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    new york city burbs
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    tod, what do you think of Tung oil rubbed in, maybe 2 coats with plenty of drying time, and something like Waterlox Tung/poly mix 2-3 coats for a tabletop? No spray equipment, very limited, almost non existant experience in finishing any wood besides splashing on Epinfanes or McCloskeys marine varnish.)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    ozarks
    Posts
    4,993
    what kind of table allen?.......if it`s going to be used then that finish will offer very little protection.........but it`s easy to apply and looks great.
    [SIZE="1"] associated with several importers and manufacturers.[/SIZE]

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