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Thread: Teak Finish Question ??

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    Teak Finish Question ??

    Turned a few bowls today and finished out a couple of them. I have attached pictures to show them and ask a few questions about them.

    My first attempt at stone inlay
    A couple of the pics show some inlay work - one has Turquiose inlay and the other red coral (there were very bad defects in the areas due to wood rot and rather than throw them out i filled them with stone). Anybody doing anything else when they have nice bowls and run into bad spots ?? I thought epoxy and color but the stone looks fairly nice when finished over.

    Teak Bowl Finish ?
    Ok my bigger issue and question........The teak bowl (pic below) has a very open type grain (porus or whatever term ) and looking at it prior to finishing i was thinking about fillers but im not sure as i have never used fillers In the picture it shows with one coat of Danish oil and while it looks nice im thinking i may not be finishing this the way one should finish teak wood .............anybody know a good way to finish teak ????

    Acrylic Finish
    Recently bought a airbrush sprayer and im have tried spraying acrylic out of it and found i had to cut it to about 50/50 to get it to spray well but the finish was very hard and fast drying. I used 3M to take down the first coat and then applied one more coat......wondering what other peoples experience is with spaying acrylic???

    Currently most of my turnings get finished the following way:1). I sand thru 400 grit,
    2). Then apply a couple coats (sometimes several) of oil which is usually
    Danish oil. I do use Linseed oil and others from time to time. I rub down
    between the coats and let dry for a day or so at a time.
    3). Then i apply by hand a mixutre of Danish/Turpen/Varnish (1/3 mix). I let
    each coat dry for a day or longer between coats and use 3M to take
    down between coats. Finishing off with the 3rd or 4th coat.

    I dont own a buffing system with the waxes (beal etc-) so i was wondering what other methods others are using for finishing there turnings??


    Thanks Dan
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Coral Inlay (600 x 450).jpg   oval bowl 1 (600 x 450).jpg   oval bowl 2 (600 x 450).jpg   Teak Bowl (600 x 450).jpg   Turq Inlay (600 x 450).jpg  

    Last edited by Dan Mosley; 11-30-2008 at 04:45 AM. Reason: additional finishing info:

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Louisville, Kentucky
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    Hi Dan
    I would be proud to be able to say that I turned anyone of those bowls, I really like the second one from the left. As to your other points, I have filled some bad places with coffee grounds and ca this is also good to repair the edges of Natural Edge bowls when you lose a little bark. As to your spraying Acrylic with an Airbrush 50/50 or even thinner works fine just add a couple of coats more. The needle tip is quite small in an airbrush and will clog rapidly.
    Larry

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Delton, Michigan
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    that far left bowl looks sharp and wouldlike to see clear pic of the far right one.. i think you got a good handle on finishing bowls those look A-ok to me..
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Drums, PA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Mosley View Post
    Teak Bowl Finish ?
    anybody know a good way to finish teak ????
    True teak is pretty oily and naturally resistant to decay. The best finish for teak is an oil based finish.
    If it where my bowl I wouldn't use any finish.


    Currently most of my turnings get finished the following way:1
    3). Then i apply by hand a mixutre of Danish/Turpen/Varnish (1/3 mix).
    Danish oil is 1/3 each of BLO or Tung oil, Turp or Mineral Spirits, and vanish. Substituting BLO for DO is really just a thinning down DO the hard way.


    Watco no longer uses BLO, they started using Soybean oil instead. Watco finishes are not as good as they used to be.

  5. #5
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    To Ron and others turning and finishing?

    First Larry - thank you for the compliment on the bowl, and yes i have to at least reduce to 50/50 or i cant get it to spray at all but the small airbrush is good for one project at a time and does require cleaning and to keep spraying non-stop to prevent clogs. I havent tried laquer yet but will in the future as i get better at using the spray gun....thanks again

    hey Larry---------putting up additional pictures of the Turquoise inlay into the bad spots of a bowl i turned per request...........

    Ron-----i understand your comments about the Danish oil composition but when i put a couple of saturated and then rubbed coats on, then apply my mix of the oils and varnish it creates a much harder shinner surface then if i would have used just the Danish. So I wonder based on your comment about the composition of the Danish if i should just put on a few coats of Varnish/Turp after the Danish oil soak and rub......am i following you correctly in what your saying ???

    Leaving it just unfinished may be a good idea if it were oily and shinney on its own but it really is not. It has a pretty dull looking exterior and i would really like to sharpen up the the surface look

    Dan
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Turq Inlay10 (600 x 450).jpg   Turq Inlay 11 (600 x 450).jpg  
    Last edited by Dan Mosley; 12-01-2008 at 03:53 AM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Delton, Michigan
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    thanks dan! i like the left one better i quess but the idea is clever,, thanks again for posting a clearer pic on the turgose../
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

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