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I need help - the rest of the story....

Hi Ken.

That's a great job that Travis made, I do not want to discourage you but be warned those are really difficult to sharpen.

I purchased a couple of spokeshaves from Harris tools some time ago, and boy! as they are made of HSS steel they are really difficult to sharpen and hone with normal water or oil stones. Having a curved blade will make things difficult.

Unfortunately I found all this afterwards, I even called Harris tools and they said that there was no problem at all, that I could sharpen them with any stone.
Not True I'm afraid to say.
I even wrote them and got no answer at all.

I could finally make them cut but not to my standards.

Eventually I made one myself that works like charm with a Hock blade, if anyone here has experienced the same and know what stone works best with them please let me know
 
ken werner said:
Toni,
I also emailed Harris tools about this, and they didn't reply to me either. Their website is poor.
Ken
Click to expand...

Here is the travisher that I would buy right now. www.handtoolwoodworking.com/tools.html

It is more expensive but I am thinking you are getting a much better product. It is also made out of O1 steel which should make Toni happy. It was recommended by a chair blogger I follow.

Now that Travis did such a fine repair on your travisher, it is a moot point, but might be something to consider for others.

Hmm, Travis, travisher, did not see that at first.:)
 
toni,
sharpening the inside of a radiused cutter is a bugger no matter the type of steel. one of the tricks i use is to shape an india stone on a concrete sidewalk to a radius somewhat tighter than the cutter, then it`s a matter of free-handing the stone and cutter `till you have an even burr. once you`ve raised the burr i use a buffing wheel charged with jewelers rouge on the inside surface and a leather covered " power-strop" on the outside. once the edge is established it`s only a matter of touching it up on the wheels with rouge to freshen the edge.
 
tod evans said:
toni,
sharpening the inside of a radiused cutter is a bugger no matter the type of steel. one of the tricks i use is to shape an india stone on a concrete sidewalk to a radius somewhat tighter than the cutter, then it`s a matter of free-handing the stone and cutter `till you have an even burr. once you`ve raised the burr i use a buffing wheel charged with jewelers rouge on the inside surface and a leather covered " power-strop" on the outside. once the edge is established it`s only a matter of touching it up on the wheels with rouge to freshen the edge.
Click to expand...

You're right Tod, but my problem wasn't the shape, I'm used to sharpen gouges and similar shaped cutting tools, the problem was that my stones were wearing away without making almost any effect on the blade, and I had to try several ones until I found one that worked a bit better, even then it took really long until I could get a proper edge.

Stroping is fine once you've got the first keen edge right, (actually is what I do on my gouges and plane blades but I do it by hand) my problem was getting that burr that you mention.

You mention an india stone, do you think that's the best choice for HSS steel blades? Don't get me wrong, I'm just asking you about it, not disagreeing...:):)
Many thanks for the info.
 
I actually tried to sharpen the travisher and not just polish it. I used sandpaper and it seemed like it was cutting. I am not sure I got the keen edge I was after though.

I prefer the Scary Sharp Method of sharpening but I have found that sometimes it takes 2-3 tries before the stars and the planets align themselves and it gets super sharp. Even though Ken made it clear I was under NO pressure to rush, I did want to get it right back to him, so I only did this one time.

Starting with 220 grit I did the outside radius
then 320
then 360
then 700
then 1200
then 2000
and finally 4000 grit

On the inside I did the same:

Starting with 220 grit I did the inside radius
then 320
then 360
then 700
then 1200
then 2000
and finally 4000 grit

Then I power buffed everything with green rouge
Then I power buffed with white rouge
Then I power buffed with pink marine buffing paste
and then finally hand rubbed with marine buffing paste

I am wondering if maybe the buffing inadvertently rounded the edge over some? I tried to stay away from the cutting edge, but its a pretty small piece so maybe I goofed. I felt confident that Ken could get it sharper then I could, but maybe a travisher is the holy grail of scary sharp sharpening?
 
toni,
i use india stones `cause they`re cheap:eek:......anything will abrade tool steel so long as it isn`t clogged or dull.
 
Toni,

I do not have any information on what stones to use on your HSS, but I am curious to know what type of steel we are talking about when you say HSS (High Speed Steel). I have a very rudimentary knowledge of tool steel that has only recently (last two weeks) been enhanced due to the following link: www.toolsfromjapan.com/index.php?pr=Steel_and_the_woodworker You need to click on the "Steel and the woodworker" link. It gives a very good summary of the various hand tool steels, including the Japanese tool steels. That link also led me to www.crucibleservice.com/eselector/general/generaltitle.html, but it is more technical in nature and not just focusing on hand tool steel.

When you talk about HSS, are we talking about M1 or M2? Does anyone know where these steels fall into ease of hand sharpening compared to O1 and A2?

Most of my experience has been in sharpening W1, O1, A2 and M2, but only hand sharpening the first three (grinder for M2). Based on my limited experience, I believe I would want a relatively easier steel to sharpen for an odd shape tool like the travisher. Probably no harder to sharpen than O1. I can handle sharpening A2 for chisels and planer blades, but not sure about the same steel in a travisher or draw knife. I know I would be sharpening more, but I think it would be the right trade off. I don't know where HSS fits into that mix.

I would be interested in other opinions concerning different type of hand tools and the various steels. What would you prefer for certain tools and why?
 
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