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Thread: 90 and 45 degree crosscut jig RFC

  1. #1

    90 and 45 degree crosscut jig RFC

    Request for comments.

    I am making some puzzles for which i need dozens of these:

    While making a simple crosscut jig to spare my fingers i came up with more and more ideas to extend its use, and ended up with a modular design where is can click-in the guides that i need.
    This is the result at the moment:

    In the holes i can slot in some 'modules' i thought would come in handy:

    Adjustable stop

    45degree guide

    But it is far from perfect just yet.
    I didnt add something to cover the blade, and a spinning blade simply frightens me.
    When i use the 45degree guide i have to hold the piece of wood being tapered more or less like this:

    and that is a tricky position i feel.

    Any suggestions are very welcome!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Delton, Michigan
    nice jig and welcome ellert! join in and share with us.
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Thomasville, GA
    Welcome to the family, Ellert. That's a great looking jig you've made!
    Bill Arnold
    Citizen of Texas residing in Georgia.
    NRA Life Member and Member of Mensa
    My Weather Underground station

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Tokyo Japan
    Ellert, welcome to the Family!

    Nice jig, and one heck of a first post
    The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.
    William Arthur Ward

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Mountain Home, Arkansas
    Clever. Watch that thumb position.

  6. #6
    yes, that is exactly one of the problems. I like my thumb as it is now, i do not need it to be crosscut.
    Any suggestions how to extend the jig in such a way the blade is better covered?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    GTA Ontario Canada
    Welkom Ellert ....Waar is jou tuisland? Where do you live?

    What about putting a toggle clamp on the Rechts 45 degree insert that you can then use to clamp the wood for a 45 degree crosscut.

    Remove the other one during this operation.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Sacramento, CA
    Very nice!

    Any way you can make some modular parts for that toggle clamp? I think it'd do really well over by your right pinky finger - doing the job your hand is doing. Then you can keep clear.
    Jason Beam
    Sacramento, CA

  9. #9
    Rob, i am from Holland.
    The right hand side insert is not fixed to the base, the 2 bolts are just loosely fitting in 2 holes in the base to keep it in place. Would i attach the clamp to it the insert would just pop up and out.
    The position the clamp is in now also prevents the little cut-off triangles from bouncing out and damaging my blade or even me.

    That is an idea. On the down side though, the clamp is bolted on the base (or actually on the riser plate) so that will take a lot of screwing and unscrewing for each change. I am quite happy the way i can just snap my modules in and out for every piece (and even keep the setting the same on the adjustable stop)
    Perhaps a second clamp for the diagonal action would be an idea, though costly.

    Right now i am trying to come up with something that will simply cover the blade and sit between the spinning blade and my hand. That would already be a great improvement i think.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Sacramento, CA
    Is there a chance you can make a hold-down from scrap?

    Snap in your module for the shape you want to cut.
    Place your workpiece in position.
    Hold it down with some kind of holding device that puts pressure where you want it but keeps your hands clear. Like maybe a small piece of plywood with a "foot" or a lip on one side that makes contact with the workpiece to hold it but leaves your hands further off to the right.

    As for covering the blade - if you could get some polycarbonate (not acrylic!), make a strip that would lay above the blade - fasten it to the back fence with a hinge, then just "flip" it up when you want to change modules and flip it back down to cover the blade.

    ... oooooh!

    Make it a big enough piece of Lexan (polycarbonate, I'd go at least 1/4" thick) to cover the entire sled. Drill strategic holes in it. Make some little posts that fit those holes to use as your hold downs. Mount on the far side with a hinge. Then you just pop your positioning pieces into the base, pop a couple "feet" into the plastic guard to hold the work piece down, slide in your workpiece and close the lid ... make your cut.

    You could add handles to it even. I'd probably add a piece of wood to the near side of this sled, too - so that you can keep the blade buried in it at all times (in case your thumb were to end up in the path, for example) - it's already 2 layers of MDF, but I'd wanna go a little thicker just in case.

    It should flex a bit, too - so you wouldn't need a different foot for every thickness of workpiece you have to use.
    Jason Beam
    Sacramento, CA

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