Sunhill tools?

Al killian

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1,940
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Floydada, Tx
Anyone own or know about this company? Just cam across there site while looking for a new jointer. In the next few month I plan on getting either a 8" or 10" jointer.
 
Tod, what your favorite flavor.:D I am starting to do more and more stock prep and want to get a decent one. Cash to spend,well lets say $2000-$3000. Want a 8" or larger model. My molding biz is starting to make some decnt cash and I really need to get one that handle the abuse.
 
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al,
i don`t own or use a jointer.......but if i was lookin` to buy one in your price range in todays economy i`d give serious thought to used.
if you`ve just gotta have new in that price range the most bang for your buck is (gosh i really hate saying this:eek:).....griz.
in the used market you should be able to find a 16" scmi for that money.
 
Tod, if you don't mind me asking, do you use rough cut wood? I mean, everything I read says I need to flatten my stock on a jointer before running it through my planer. So your answer really picqued my interest in this. If I am being to nosey concerning your preparation of material for your beautiful creations, just say so.
 
nah jon you ain`t nosey.....if a board isn`t flat off the stack it`s pretty unlikely that face jointing is going to make it behave for very long.
if a board has a twist i`ll cut it into smaller pieces and glue it back together or just use it for something else. the stresses involved in twisting a board are not usually eliminated by removing parts of tangential corners and once the board is paralleled odds are it`ll twist again.
then there`s the 4/4 argument....if a 4/4 board has a 1/2" twist in it what`s left after face jointing?
edges are best done on a slider/ripsaw or railed saw like the festo.
labor is the expensive part of building "stuff" lumber grows on trees;)
 
Tod, thanks for the thoughts. I hate running a jointer. Have always cut my sides parallel using the table saw with a guide, then planing. Always worked for me, but felt embarrassed that I wasn't doing it "the correct" way. Appreciate you sharing this information.:thumb:
 
Tod, what about cupped boards? Do you just feed it thru the planer to remove the cup while brining it down to size? For the edges I have been useing the rip attachment to my planer and it works great. Maybe I can do without a jointer and find other ways of doing things.
 
I agree with Tod I had a production shop for 18 years building limited production furniture and never had a jointer. I bought almost all of my lumber hit and miss planed and straight line ripped any problem board was just cut into smaller stock. Also never used a rip blade on the saw only a good combo blade and I would cut up semi loads of oak and maple at a time. Never seen a need for a jointer. Did I want one ya but never had a NEED for one.

Jay
 
One thing they have going for them is they have kept a jointer with a 65" bed. I'm not saying the longer bed jointer isn't great but some smaller shops still have need of a 8" jointer but cannot fit in a 75" jointer. So sometimes bigger isn't necessarily better.
 
Sunhill is where i got my power feeder for my shaper. Talk to Cidny if you do any bussiness with them. Nobody else speaks good english. My feeder is a comac(sp) and was on sale when I got it
Reg
 
jointer

You might want to give the Grizzly some consideration.
Although most of my shop is Ridgid(ts,jointer,drillpress,compound miter saw,)I have other brands also, the grizz' tools have very high ratings. I have a grizz extreme bandsaw that I am very satisfied with.
 
Well, for those of us that might not saw a very straight line with our chainsaw mills, a jointer is needed :eek:

I notice that Sunhill carries Oliver, they are good quality well built tools as well.
 
I thought I saw an ad for a Steel City in your price range and don't they have the granite surface? Check with Nancy unless you are set to purchase this specific color machine to coordinate your shop!:rofl:
 
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