router bit question?

larry merlau

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Delton, Michigan
can i get a bit that will do a half bull nose on 8/4 stock? i went to the whiteside store and they have a large bit for 1.75" but i want a half bull nose so i can use a bearing on it to keep from cuttin to deep.. or a shaper cutter? witha rub collar
 
thanks for the tip chuck i had bull nose on my brain never dawned on me to look for hand rail:dunno: and i havnt started gettin thirsty yewt:rofl:

It sounds like you are looking for a 1" radius rounding over bit. If so, they are quite common (the Freud version is item 34-132). The bearing is great for one edge but be aware that if you flip the material to cut the other edge the bearing no longer has a reference surface to follow so you will have to use the fence.
 
It sounds like you are looking for a 1" radius rounding over bit. If so, they are quite common (the Freud version is item 34-132). The bearing is great for one edge but be aware that if you flip the material to cut the other edge the bearing no longer has a reference surface to follow so you will have to use the fence.

hey charles,, this piece wont work for no fence its to curvy:) if i left the bit low in the table then i should be able to maintain a flat to refernce to on the other side, correct. its for the sleigh bed sides. not straight much atall:huh:

http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?t=3490 look at post 22
 
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Larry, I think what you're saying is that you are thinking of leaving, say, maybe 1/8" flat between the two passes as a deviation from true round to use as a bearing reference?

Would it also work to put a slightly larger bearing* on for the second pass? You'd need to be careful feeding as you'd be referencing to the workpiece on just the corner of the bearing. I've never done this and have no idea as to safety or end result appropriateness - it was just a thought that might be helpful. <shrug>

Best of luck!

*The other half has had material removed from where the bearing would sit - the initial size bearing obviously doesn't contact appropriately, but perhaps a 1/16" larger radius bearing would be at least close enough to make contact to the workpiece on the upper corner of the bearing - some experimentation would be needed for the exact bigger size bearing needed.
 
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There's a few ways of going at that I have done.
The depth of the cut so the barring rides just below center and you get a small ridge that sands off easily.
Set the depth of the cut so the barring rides just above center and you will get a small flat spot also easily sanded round.
Set the depth dead on and you will ride on the corner of the barring and may end up sanding out some of both.
For what you are doing I would go with cutting it just a bit under and finishing the round with a sander. Say maybe an 1/8" flat on the nose.

thats what i had planned chuck i just am after a un square edge! and alittle flat on top is fine sander will get it..thanks for the right termanolgy on the cutter.
 
Larry,

The best way to accomplish this, especially for a true 1/2 round edge, is to use a template for the shape attached to the work piece and template guide on the router table to follow. These bits are 2-1/2" diameter so they are to be used only with a table mounted router.
 
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