Router table insert

Matt Dimon

Member
Messages
1
Location
Birmingham, Al
Hey guys! I've just found this site, and you guys seem like a great group with lots to share, so I hope I can hang around here and pick your brains from time to time... and maybe actually contribute something myself :D

That said, I did have a question, probably a simple one really. I'm building a router table right now, and I need to make a decision about the insert. The plans I'm using call for a phenolic resin insert, which does seem like a great material for the purpose. However, I have a big sheet of 1" thick UHMWPE sitting around collecting dust, and I'd have to order a pricey sheet of phenolic...

So the question is, what do you guys think about using UHMWPE for this purpose? I figure if it's strong enough to make your hip out of it, it's strong enough for this, but I've never worked with it in the shop before. What do you guys think? :huh:
 
first of all welcome ,, now to the meat and tators,, are you wanting to make your top out of some of that white plastic? or the insert? in my opinion either one wouldnt be agood choice.. that plastic will sage and you want something stable for your top and have it stay flat.. the insert in my opinion is better to be alum.. stays flat and and is strong.. rockler has a sale on some right now
 
Hey guys! I've just found this site, and you guys seem like a great group with lots to share, so I hope I can hang around here and pick your brains from time to time... and maybe actually contribute something myself :D

That said, I did have a question, probably a simple one really. I'm building a router table right now, and I need to make a decision about the insert. The plans I'm using call for a phenolic resin insert, which does seem like a great material for the purpose. However, I have a big sheet of 1" thick UHMWPE sitting around collecting dust, and I'd have to order a pricey sheet of phenolic...

So the question is, what do you guys think about using UHMWPE for this purpose? I figure if it's strong enough to make your hip out of it, it's strong enough for this, but I've never worked with it in the shop before. What do you guys think? :huh:
I think you will find that this material has a tendency to sag(or bow) when you hang the weight of a router on it. Spend a few bucks and you will be more satisfied. Phenolic is good, aluminum is better.:wave:
 
Matt,

Welcome to the site. I have a MLCS router table with a phenolic plate. I am going to replace it with aluminum. It takes a sag and makes raised panel doors much more challenging than they should be.

Just my $0.02.
 
First off, Welcome. Secondly, (and I mean this in a good way) an aluminum plate is not near as expensive as replacing the cheaper one you already paid for plus the cherry that just got botched due to plate-sag.

A lot of folks run phenolic without problems but a lot of people do have problems with it. I had an aluminum plate and my MDF table sagged The table was cured by adding support ribs underneath but you cannot do this with a plate.

If they have one to fit your router, Rockler is blowing some old style aliminum plates out:http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1385&filter=router plates
 
I don't know for sure, but I'd suspect the UHMWPE will sag over time. I made two out of corian 9" X 13" that have stayed flat for 4+ years now though. I have two different routers with the plates attached. One stays setup with a 1/4" round over. It's nice to be able to just drop in a router with ought having to change bits.

Whatever route you go, make sure your table is up to the task. Mine is doubled up 3/4" ply with a couple of stiffeners and 3/4" hardwood edge banding which has also stayed flat.

Mike
 
I made one out of some 1/4" Cold rolled steel plate. The large diameter hole can be roughed out with a jig saw and filed to a line. The other holes are drilled & chamfered on the drill press. Added a coat of rustoleum. Doesn't sage.
 
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