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Thread: signs of burning when cutting oak

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    signs of burning when cutting oak

    I cut some 1" thick oak pieces for my crosscut sled yesterday.
    I have a brand new (never been used) Woodworker 2 blade and both of the pieces I ripped had signs of burning.
    I double checked all measurements before I started to make sure everything was aligned properly before cutting.
    Am I pushing the work through too slow?
    My saw is a Steel City 1.75 horse.
    We put the "k" in "kwality."

    The above picture is not me!!

  2. #2
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    You might be cutting too slow, and you might want to check the blade to miter slot alignment.
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  3. #3
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    while you say your ripping that means your using the fence correct to do so? if so then you must have the fence set out of parrel with your blade ,,your binding between the blade and stock right. also as rennie said you might be going to slow,, when they show those blades at a show settun there and spinning threw a block of cherry and no burning well that saw isnt any one you or have set up..thats atweaked saw for the shows.. you will get some burn sometimes wood isnt fire resistant. the off sideof the cut being burnt to could be from interanl stress in the wood or again rennie said speed trouble
    Last edited by larry merlau; 01-17-2009 at 08:11 PM.
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by larry merlau View Post
    i quess we need to know if your riping or croscuttin?
    I assumed cross cutting since he was using a cross cut sled.
    Host of the 2017 Family Woodworking Gathering - Sunken Wood

    “We all die. The goal isn't to live forever; the goal is to create something that will.” - Chuck Palahniuk
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  5. #5
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    Rennie, he's making I believe runners for a new sled. Question I would as is (if all is running true) is the wood closing up on the blade? Are you using the splitter?
    Aloha,

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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Royall Clark View Post
    Rennie, he's making I believe runners for a new sled. Question I would as is (if all is running true) is the wood closing up on the blade? Are you using the splitter?
    Ooops. I should read more carefully.
    Sorry larry.
    Host of the 2017 Family Woodworking Gathering - Sunken Wood

    “We all die. The goal isn't to live forever; the goal is to create something that will.” - Chuck Palahniuk
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  7. #7
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    hey that alright renie you got mine before i changed it i missed it at first then it sunk in what i read so changed it but you got it befro i go ti fixed.. i was relateing to that royal as well.. sounds like it could be stress i the wood if he has the fence right to the blade
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  8. #8
    Could be..... fence is tighter at the rear than in the front of the blade. Just takes a few thousands of an inch to create the proble. You say new blade but is it carbide or HSS ? Perhaps too fine of tooth for ripping? Really need a rip blade but a combination should also do well. Feeding too slowly and allowing the wood to just sit there next to the blade.I would look first at the fence and be sure it is Parallel with the blade, and then also look at the teeth of the blade no more than 40 tpi on a combination blade for ripping especially such a hard wood as oak.

  9. #9
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    Blade is a Woodworker 2 40 tooth 1/8th kerf. Brand spankin new. First use.
    I did use the splitter.
    Guess I will get out my dial indicator jig and check again.
    We put the "k" in "kwality."

    The above picture is not me!!

  10. #10
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    The other thing I want to add is I dont want to feed it too quickly and bog my saw down.
    I was feeding it rather slowly.
    I will check what I cut with my calipers and see if its accurate.
    We put the "k" in "kwality."

    The above picture is not me!!

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