Switch to activate tool and vacuum.

Jim O'Dell

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2,783
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Between Aledo and Fort Worth, TX
Hi all! Question...I bought one of the Rockler paddle type switches right before Christmas when they were on sale at 17.99 and free shipping. Rockler paddle switch.jpg It is 15 amp, appears to be a dual wire switch taking it apart. It is wired for 110 with in and out cables with plugs, but the wires are under screw terminals on the switch inside...easy to change. What I need to do is have a switch operate say the router and have a low amperage AC connection for the vacuum system turn on lead from the whole-house style vacuum cleaner my Dad salvaged for me. I'm thinking I only need to break the hot lead for the router, the neutral can be a pass through. Then I can use the other leg for the vacuum turn on lead. Anyone see any problems with that?
If you answered no to the first question :rofl:, how can I run the low amperage AC wire from the wall to the router table? I would want some sort of plug in. It would have to be 2 prong. Do they make something like that? The wire pigtails left on the vacuum system is only 22 or 24 guage. I'll go with probably 16 guage when I do this.
I'm going to use this vacuum system to supply the suction for the in-fence pick up on the router, and on the other side of the shop for the SCMS shroud hookup. I'll have a third port for the standard house hookup that came with it for floor vacuuming. That hookup already has a switch built into it so when you lift the door to hook up the hose, it turns the system on.
Thanks for any ideas you can offer! Jim.
 
Jim

I have that type of switch with a different paddle on my jointer which is 220v. I think the switch was originally designed for this type of 220v application and they are selling it with a lower rated contact at 110v.

Anyway as long as you ensure you get the pairs correct and wired to the right side I think you have a great idea to use one of the contacts for the router hot line ( thats what you must ensure) and the other could be the vacuum start.

There are more sophisticated ways of doing this if you wanted to break both the leads to the router but that would involve another switch and relay and I dont think it is neccessary. If you had a magnetic started switch lying around:rofl: This would be ideal because it has three contacts. Two could be used for the router and the third for the vacuum. Then the one start switch would activate both.

But I dont see any problem with what you want to do. Just use a meter and make sure you get the contact pairs on the switch correct. I would wire up the vacuum first since it is just a contact closure to make sure you have the switch contacts correct. Then add the router hot wire.

Dont forget you still have to bring the router neutral back to the mains receptacle so as to make a circuit. :)
 
Jim, your idea will probably work fine.

Your idea is probably against code - generally low voltage and full voltage are kept miles apart... well, in separate switches and boxes, not just on the other side of the switch. Generally code assumes that everything that could go wrong will, and if you got a loose connection you could zap your low voltage circuit with high voltage.

In general I don't like to start multiple motors with the same switch. The starting load is many times as high as running load, so if you can space the start a few seconds apart (separate switches), your electric system will be happier, which makes the motors happier, especially as you get into higher power units.
 
Good info Charlie. I hadn't thought about low and high voltage in one box. If I went ahead and ran it the way I was talking about, I'm almost positive that the tool and the vacuum would be on different circuits. But I'd rather be safe. May just invest in the vacuum outlets that start the vacuum when you open the cover. Or rig up a relay of some sort. Probably be safer. Jim.
 
I just bought a few of those remote controll AC do-funnies that they use to turn on outdoor Christmas lights. Plenty for a Shop-Vac's draw. I got them all with the same frequency and have a remote near the tools (DPs and small BS) that are served by that vac. Great prices during the After Christmas Clearance at HD. For the other Vac (ROS and routers) I use an i-Socket.
 
Glen, I thought about using that, but it is limited to 15 amps, just like this switch is. I'm afraid trying to power up a vacuum and a miter saw or router at the same time would be a little tough on it, unless I don't understand how it is rated. Jim.
 
Well, I feel like Homer Simpson DOH!! :doh::D. The way I wired my cyclone is of course through a relay, but the trigger wire is the end of an extension cord. It plugs into a switched receptacle in the ceiling by the relay box. I did this so that If I decided to do a remote later, it would just plug in between.:thumb: Guess what? It's a duplex receptacle!! :eek: I can just run a longer cord from the vacuum to the other receptacle, and it will turn on at the same time as the cyclone. (second head slap at the back of the head ala NCIS for good measure :rofl:) I can still run the turn on lead to a toggle switch there to turn it off easily when working on the TS where I don't need the vacuum. So problem solved. It actually dawned on me a minute ago when I was answering a wiring question on the Clear Vue forum and explained how I did mine. Jim.
 
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