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Thread: Attaching legs and structure strength

  1. #1
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    Attaching legs and structure strength

    this is a rough drawing of a cabinet Im going to build shortly.
    The drawing is not to scale, since the paper wasnt wide enough.
    The top will be approx 66 inchs long, about 21-22 inches wide, 3/4 inch solid wood.
    The legs will be 2 and 1/4 inch square, about 19-20 inches height.
    The legs will not be directly on the cabinet sidewalls(sapele plywood)
    I colored the part I have a question about.
    Im not asking anyone about the design itself. Attaching 3-4 inch spacers between the legs and sidewalls, I want to make sure the spacers are attached so the cabinet weight, the solid wood top(also resting on the leg tops) and the contents of the cabinet(mostly dishes and glasses) will not be overwhelming.
    My plan was to cut a 1/4 to 3/8 inch mortise into the sidewalls, predrill through the spacers and wall, and drill into the legs, which will also have a mortise and tenon joint at the connecting point. I was going to run 5-6 inch lag screws into each hole(2 holes on each spacer into each leg) from inside sidewalls, as well as glue the joints.
    Will this work well enough for the cabinet and expected weight?
    Does anyone see any significant design flaw?(not caring if you like it or not, just worried about the structure strength)
    Any suggestions on how to mortise out a 3/8 depth, 1x2 inch approx mortise area in the sidewalls?
    Im open for suggestions, not on design, only only structural strength issues and any basic joint issues.
    Thankyou for anyone taking the time to understand what Im posting.(the pink areas are the 3-4 inch spacers, about 3 inches in height also)

    (again, the drawing isnt to exact scale)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails wood stuff 518 (Medium).jpg  
    Last edited by allen levine; 01-28-2009 at 08:44 PM.

  2. #2
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    Allen, since the legs will be from 2 1/4" stock, I "think" that if the spacers are made from 2" thick stock and you use a large washer on the inside of the side of the case under the head of the lagscrew, I "think" it should work. As to making the mortises in the case sides, I would make a jig from mdf or other and clamp it to the case side and use a router to make the mortises. I like the design.

  3. #3
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    hey allen if i got this right you want to hang your inner cabinet off the 4" spacers that connect to your legs and the top will support someof thweight as well? how are you going to pick up your connection for the weight to the top?
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  4. #4
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    The top of the cabinet will not be solid plywood. The sidewalls and inside 2 walls(with dadoed shelves) will be adjoined at the top with a solid piece of 3-4 inch wide wood.Front, middle for support and back-back also will be to support the cabinet back. The top will be attached to these top outer supports with simple table top fasteners, allowing for expansion and contraction of the top.
    The ends of the top will just rest on the top of the legs., but the bulk length of the entire table top surface will be held down with those little "z" top fasteners.
    Last edited by allen levine; 01-28-2009 at 09:37 PM.

  5. #5
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    so then your red suares in your pic go all the way to the back on the sides and attch to your legs?
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  6. #6
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    The supports between the side walls of the main cabinet and the legs are attached to the middle of the legs, and will be attached to the face of the side walls. Nothing will come out of the back of the cabinet, it will be attached directly to the side of the leg and the corresponding side wall face.Ill make a quick topview diagram.
    no laughing, this is a very rough drawing, looking down through the top
    I hope this makes my intentions clearer
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails wood stuff 519 (Medium).jpg  
    Last edited by allen levine; 01-29-2009 at 12:43 AM.

  7. #7
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    were this me, i would use the screws to attach to the sides of the cabinets, but i would also use a heavier mortise and tenon joint in the legs, not less than 1/2" thick and 1 3/4" deep, for support, and (my own preference here) use figure 8 table irons to secure the top to the case, using at least 6, to even out the load.
    benedictione omnes bene

    www.burroviejowoodworking.com

    check out my etsy store, buroviejowoodworking

  8. #8
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    also, if the spacers are going into the stiles (horizontal parts i think), you could mortise and tenon those too.
    benedictione omnes bene

    www.burroviejowoodworking.com

    check out my etsy store, buroviejowoodworking

  9. #9
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    IN the legs I was going to use a deep mortise with glue, but wanted to to bolt it through for complete support. There will be no stiles or rails on the cabinet sides, only the face frame.

    the figure 8 are fine, but I liked the last ones I used, the table top fasteners, I was able to use the biscuit cutter to cut the slots, very easy, very simple, no mess, and I could even put one in the top of each leg to hold secure the top.
    (I have alot of them left)
    Last edited by allen levine; 01-29-2009 at 12:49 AM.

  10. #10
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    with that in mind, i would think that you would be good to go. as long as you're not planning to tap dance on it, it should hold.
    benedictione omnes bene

    www.burroviejowoodworking.com

    check out my etsy store, buroviejowoodworking

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