Flame Box Elder Inclusions chunk.

Bill Simpson

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Flipped the switch and it actually started, Been so long that I wasn't sure how the lathe would react to being handled again... Up to our belly buttons in Ice and Snow and everything I had to do yesterday and today and most likely tomorrow has been canceled, Good news/bad news but the good news part is yesterday I spent the day cleaning up the ole shoppe and today I was playing around with a loverly piece of Flaming Box Elder that showed up in the wood pile. Did some slicing and dicing but managed a small chunk with lots of red. Only thing is there is some inclusion (hole and worms and bark etc) right in the middle of the best of the red flames.

As a rule I am not turned on with inclusions and natural edges (although there are a bunch of you guys who do turn them and get agog over fellows postings) personal preference, I got to be different. But I have turned them and perhaps the reason I don't care for them is I have never been successful, OK so why bring it up?

My question for the asstute among you is the prep for the turning, I found out why my firewood is such a devil to keep lit, it is green as if it still had leaves (think I got the weenie when the fellows came by with the good deal on a cord of wood) Any how.... back at the ranch... I turned a blank to the rounded shape of a hollow form I think I will try. Am presently soaking it in DA asi the juices were flowing as I turned. The wood arround the inclusion of bark is sound but on the other side the wood seems a bit punky and I know I will not be able to make a decent piece with the spounge wood. So, I was considering trying to stableize it (after it cures from the DA soaking and sobers up.) is this the best way to go? Perhaps a vacuum soak in thinned Poly?

How do you guys keep the inclusions from freeing themselves when you turn then? This will be a learning experience for me, who knows I might like that kind of turning.
 
Bill, I think most of us do most of the hollowing while the wood is still wet instead of drying it first. This serves several purposes. A) It's much easier to hollow the wet wood than if it's dried. B) It's faster to dry a 1/2" wall than a 4" or 5" block. C) It lessens the chances of cracking, since the wall will tend to flex whereas a solid piece is more likely to crack. If I were in your shoes, I'd go ahead and get it rough-hollowed before you dry it. Then after it's dried, you can re-turn it to true up the shape (or leave it warped if it looks good to you).

As far as dealing with inclusions and punky spots, I usually just cut carefully with sharp tools, and keep my fingers crossed. The questionable spots can be stabilized with CA, thinned poly, shellac, Minwax Wood Hardener, or other similar liquids. Here again, I'd get the piece to rough dimensions inside and out, the do any stabilizing after it's dried, but before I re-turn it to final dimensions.
 
Flame box elder inclusions chunk

When I turn something with a great deal of inclusions in it,I turn the outside to as close to final shape as possable,then if its rally rough,I tape the outside,then turn the inside to the desired thickness.I then take the tape off untill its dried out,then use the CA or epoxy on the inclusions before I finish turning it.
 
Otay! So today I took the chunk out of the juice and sobered it up. Glued on a Tenon so I can chuck it up tomorrow (It is such a small piece it need to add a tenon else I would loose most of the handsome wood. ) tomorrow I attack the shape but there is still the punky part. :( Not too sure how to approach it.

I don't like green turning, but will do some tomorrow. I much prefer a dry wood. I guess I'm "Old School" ....
 
If you're still cold Bill, you could dry some of that green wood in DNA and then use it for firewood? :rofl::rofl::rofl: or not :rofl:
I have only done a few "green" things. I'm working on the skill part and then I'll work on the boring (drying) part. I like dry wood too.
 
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Bill if it is small I use CA. If it is a larger area I mix epoxy and thin it with DNA. I then will paint it on and let it soak in and dry for 24 hrs. Works pretty good for me. If I am still unsure I wrap the outside with Saran wrap as tight as I can get it for a couple of wraps. Has held the 4 or 5 that had some big inclusions in them.
 
Thanks guys, but it is already turned on the outside, I am having difficulty on the inside as I don't have the right tool (How's that for an excuse? Ever heard that one before?) Can't reach around the small opening to thin down the side walls. Have been too lazy and otherwise busy with ice storms and checking on elderly relatives and taking test to work the Census and planning a Florida trip, and putting up new Blinds all over the house and shoveling snow and fixin' garage door, and baby sitting , and Pinewood derby making , to get a round tuit and make a device (heaven forbid I should want to buy one) So there it sits, clamped in the chuck getting a fresh coat of finish every day or so.

Gotta go! Headed out of town again.... Mom's 89th birthday.... Seizure in a few days :wave:
 
Yeah Bill, sounds like you need a hobby or something to use up all that spare time you've got. I read somewhere that woodworking is fun. :p
 
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