Buying new router. Tips wanted.

Bas Tomesen

Member
Messages
4
Location
Almelo, Holland
First I have to say hello to all.
I'm new here. Maybe my English is not so good, sorry for that.

I'm planning to buy my first (!) router. I like to have some simple tips from you craftsmen. Ofcourse I can find detailed information on the internet, but I like to have some tips from experienced woodworkers. That's why I post this thread/question.

I want to use the router up side down on a router-table.

Question's:

1. Do I need a minimum of Watt's?
2. Is the 6, 8 or 12 mm important?
3. Can I use every plunge-router up-side-down?

I have searched the forum for answers but couldn't find.
So far, thanks for your help!:thumb:

Greetings from Bas, Holland.
 
hi bas!
no advice on brands,(i have no idea what`s available in holland!)
use the largest shank bits available in your router(s) all the time.
 
Welcome Bas!

1. For table use, more power is usually better....I'd go with at least an 11 amp motor (~1-3/4 hp).... 13 amp (2-1/4 hp) and 15 amp (3+ hp) is better yet. In my opinion, variable speed is more important than power. You'll need to reduce the RPM of the router when you spin really large bits like a panel raising bit.

2. The collet and shank sizes we use here are usually 1/4" and 1/2". The larger shanks offer more strength and less vibration, so I'd go with the 12mm shanks whenever possible.

3. Yes you can use a plunge router in a table but it's not required. In fact, there are many who prefer a fixed based router for table mounting. It's really a matter of preference (or what router you have)

I'm not sure what brands are available to you, but here there are several good brands readily available....Milwaukee, Porter Cable, Bosch, DeWalt, Freud, Hitachi, Makita, and Triton to name a few. Above table features like above table bit changes and above table height adjustment are nice conveniences but not required. I've had good experiences with a Milwaukee 5625 and Freud FT1700 in the router table. My Bosch 1617, Hitachi M12VC, and smaller Milwaukee would all do well in a router table too. Find a deal on one that you like, and save enough money to buy some good basic bits.

Good luck!
 
welcome bas, cant add to there info,, other than you will need some hold downs or feather boards as well..and if you do raised panels ,,"bad dog' sells a panel clamp that makes doing raised panels safer and better outcome.:wave:
 
Hi Bas!

Baie welkom hier, hoop jy geniet dit!

For table use I recommend 1/2" and for hand held 1/4". 1/2" is normally very heavy, and kills you if you have to hold it for to long. But, 1/2" normally comes with collets so that you could use either of the three sizes.

Also check that you get variable speed, something like the makita 3612C is a very nice router

Uys
 
Good advice here so far, Bas. Since it is your first router I would recommend a plunge as they are more versatile if you are only going to have one for awhile. Go with the 12mm shank. Larger shanks are preferred and you can always use a reducer or second collet for smaller bits.

I am not real clear on how to convert our "magical" router horsepower ratings to your watts as I am unclear on the exact voltage and Hz you run. Let's just say the more power the better EXCEPT when you get to the point where the router is difficult to handle free hand. I am not a large person so once I get to about 7 kilos of weight in a router, I am going to start to have control issues unless I am using it flat and gravity is helping me. I do have a massive dedicated route in my table but, that came later.
 
I also have no additional advice to offer, but I wanted to say hello and welcome to the forum, Bas. :wave:

And no worries about your English...there are some Americans here who could probably use an English lesson from you. :p :rofl:
 
Welcome to the family Bas.

I've taken notes of what have been said as I'm planning to build a router table myself (one of these days), so hung around and remember we love pics!
 
Good advice here so far, Bas.
<snip>
I am not real clear on how to convert our "magical" router horsepower ratings to your watts as I am unclear on the exact voltage and Hz you run.
<snip again>

Pardon a "newbie" here, but the magical formula is 746 watts = 1 hp. (That is, if my gray hairs aren't clouding my memory.) :doh:

1 hp = 750 watts
2 hp = 1,500 watts
3 hp = 2,250 watts
(rounded off)

I hope this helps dispell the "magic". :)
 
Thanks!!!!!

:thumb::thumb::thumb:

Goodmorning all! (just woke up 8 am here).

Thanks to all for your answers. Didn't expect all the replies.
The 12 mm shaft is important I see.
I'll take a cup of coffee and read it again. :)

Maybe I have more detailed questions, but you'll see.

Thanks again.
Bas
 
Pardon a "newbie" here, but the magical formula is 746 watts = 1 hp. (That is, if my gray hairs aren't clouding my memory.) :doh:

1 hp = 750 watts
2 hp = 1,500 watts
3 hp = 2,250 watts
(rounded off)

I hope this helps dispell the "magic". :)
Hey Tony - Welcome to the family. :wave:

Your formula is correct for "true" horsepower ratings, but what Glenn is alluding to is if you look at the wattage (or amperage) of a typical "3 HP" router, or shop vac, or several other machines with small universal motors, you'll see they're not drawing the 2,200+ watts that a real 3 HP motor pulls. The "3 HP" rating is a peak rating that estimates the HP of the locked-up motor right before it bursts into flames. :D

As an example, the Hitachi M12V2 is rated at "3 1/4 HP", but they list an amperage of 15 amps. At 110 volts, the 15 amps equates to 1650 watts, and I believe even that's a "starting amps" rating. I'll bet the running amps are more in the 8 to 12 range.

Still, even though the HP ratings are off, they are still somewhat useful for comparing one router to another in relative terms.
 
As per any unit conversion, even biblican ones there is a software on the web called "Master converter" that can be downloaded. It converts any unit into another and viceversa.
 
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