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Buffet-Mahogany and Sapele Ply-planning stages and first cuts

As far as I recall, there is no adjustments to make, just take out, flip and re-install, all self alligning. 5 - 10 mins from beginning to end. Just check out the manual for full instructions. Pretty easy :thumb:

If it is working much smoother without the tables, I would bet you lessen the angle that will help. May be adjusted to high
 
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Allen
if your shop is cold, the rollers may not grip as well. If your shop is heated, nevermind. If they don't grip, they don't propel the wood as well.

Second, rollers can easily get dirty. I clean mine with a scotchbrite pad. I've used mineral spirits on it also, but I can't vouch for its safety on the rollers. If you do take a pad to the rollers, raise the rotating head as high as possible, and be careful not to cut yourself on the blades.

In my experience, dark marks on the wood come from the wood stopping, and the blades burning the wood, not the rollers.

Last, my experiences are not with your model lunchbox planer, but with a couple of Ryobis, and a DW 733.
 
ken, I have no heat in the garage and besides last week, its been well below freezing.
Its certainly the rollers making marks,it looks like tire marks almost.
If I assist the wood along, I dont get any marks.
Like I said, without the extensiontables, it running much smoother.
Im working through monday, but Ill try to get the blades flipped tomorrow night and see if that helps.
I ran wood last night, and it seemed to going smoother.
 
ok allen just fer grins,,what side is you marks showin up on the cutter side or the bottom side.. see i hav ehad burn marks to from what you experiencing and its on top not the bottom that they show,, which goes along with kens comments.
 
allen levine said:
top onlly, facing rollers,
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allen the cutters are on the top not the bottom:D:thumb:but after looking at your machine it still could be marks from rollers,, are your rollers metal or rubber? and if rubber then yu need to lok at the burn marks and see if the residue is rubber or just burnt wood.
 
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Allen, I've cleaned the rollers (rubber or similar material) on my planer with alcohol. Just do it carefully so you don't cut yourself on any of the blades.
 
Allen take care changing those blades. I have the same planner as you and I did the change and cut myself badly. Remember both sides are sharp and use something like wood to index the head. I was cut before I even realized it. Sign of a sharp blade. Gory sight blood all over your planner so be very cautious.
 
ya talking to someone who took over 50 years to get invovled with woodworking due to a fear of moving and rotating blades.
I will take it all apart with my son, he may not understand machines with rotating blades, but he isn't mechanically challenged like myself.
 
we opened it up tonight, the blades looked shiny and new. Ive nicked the blades on my electric hand planer and easily saw the little mark, these blades all looked perfect. When we had the dust port cover off, we cleaned the top, then lifted the machine and cleaned the bottom of the rollers.

Not any better. If I assist it, it goes through fine.


Is there any problem if I slice off a 1/4 inch off the face on the narrow boards on the tablesaw first, then plane it a couple of passes.
Its just so thick, over an inch after face planing.
 
allen levine said:
...Is there any problem if I slice off a 1/4 inch off the face on the narrow boards on the tablesaw first, then plane it a couple of passes. Its just so thick, over an inch after face planing.
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In general, it's not a problem (IMHO) as long as you feel you can do the cut safely, and not have the board tip as you guide it through the blade. How wide are the narrow boards? If they're pushing the limits of your tablesaw's depth capacity, then it can be done, but it should be done with a lot of caution and safety devices. That's a lot of exposed blade. The more the blade is exposed, the higher the chances are for kickback and other ugly events.
 
Most of the wider boards are planed. Maybe 5-6 left.
I have alot of linear feet for face frames and door frames only 2 inches wide.
That was most of what I was going to run through to save me all the plane time.
 
I trimmed up every board under 3.5 inches on the ts, left around a 32nd more.
Still couldnt get the planer to feed easily, some pieces, just wouldnt move.

I ran out of time, I dont have the day to play, but before I left, I said, ok, one more try.
I took out some chrome polish, auto chrome polish. I polished the base top.

Ok, so I had to give it a shot.

I dont care if its not in the book or not, the machine is working perfectly again.
The wood slides through totally unassisted. I only ran through a few of the narrower boards, but they ran great. I think I solved this dilemma.
Seems the mahogany lets out such a fine dust, its produces like a grit, and that I noticed on my TS and jointer surface also.
Ive always cleaned those alot and wiped downt the surfaces.
 
wood is all planed, ofcourse, I spent an hour disconnecting hoses and moving tables and machines to put the jointer and planer away, and totally forgot I never did the legs......idiot I am.

I cut a piece of pressure treated shoter than leg length Im going to use, but I wanted to see if my idea of assembly would work without much difficulty
all legs cut squared off and final length 35 and 1/4 inchwood stuff 569 (Medium).jpg
the cabinet will fit over cleats and bottom supports attached to all 4 bottom rails, front and sides. The rails will be attached to legs with MT joints, and cabinet will fit inside of them, using 3/4 sapele ply for walls.
The bottom of the legs will be tapered slightly and then Il cut a curve in the bottom rail, (no curve in pic on bottom rail)wood stuff 565 (Medium).jpgwood stuff 566 (Medium).jpg
Thats where Im at right now.a bit on the cold side out there today, 4 hours is enough, it gets into your bones when your old.
 
alot harder than I originally thought, going over and over the same math, the fractions, the exact locations of each spot to cut out a mortise, Ill cut every mortise and tenon first.

my teachers always said leave your first answers, they are usually the right ones........my brain is fried, Ill start cutting the hole in the morning, I hope IM close.

Really tough designing even a simple piece of boxy thing like furniture.
 

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hey allen, have ya went to bed thinkun about what you think might work or how to do something and cant sleep? if so your hooked:) when yu get up at 3 am to go to the shop becasue yu cant stand it any more your uncureable:rofl::thumb: and i am referin to noraml folks hours not "vaughns"
keep up the good work, allen
 
Fractions

Hey Allen bring them all to a common denominator. But I agree with you, thats why I am delighted I was taught both metric and imperial. Its so much easier to work in metric when doing calculations. You can simply use a calculator. :D
 
although 37 degrees, the dampness is making it near impossible to work.
I only managed to cut the legs to size and put 16 mortises into them.(3 hours 15 minutes this morning)
I cut the back support rail 1.5 inches shorter than the 1.5 inches longer I needed, so I stole a piece from the top(I cut at least 3-4 inches more than Id need this time), trimmed it to 2.5 inches, and cut it to length.
Incredible, I cut it 1.5 inches short again!!!!:dunno:
I think the cold air not only froze my toes, it froze my brain.
2 6 foot pieces cut wrong. Ill use it somewhere, but it hurts cause mahogany aint cheap.
I had edge jointed another piece, didnt face joint it, but its a brace not seen, and it looked perfect, so I cut the thickness with the table saw, those freud blades, nothing bothers them.
I was about to cut to length, and I rechecked it 4 times, finally cut it right.
Just sharing the build as it goes along.
I might have to close it down today, just too cold and damp to work properly.
I gotta tell some of ya though, maybe this is above my level, and Im struggling,but I love this stuff.
 
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