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Thread: type of screw to use?

  1. #1

    type of screw to use?

    what type of scews do you guys use on a face plate for the lathe? i seem to be having trouble with that. have used hot glue,double face tape. i will not usethe cross spur it always come off the lathe. the wood i mean.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Tellico Plains, Tennessee
    I'm assuming you mean when fastening the faceplacte to the wood... I use a hex head metal machine screw, usually about 1 1/4 in long.. they are hardened and will hold better than most wood screws. Never tried glue or tape myself yet, but have heard that others do with success. When I use the cross spur drive, I usually use it in hard woods and drive it in with a soft dead blow hammer.. sometimes it will still slip, but most of the time holds well... just keep the tail stock up tight.
    Tellico Plains, TN
    My parents taught me to respect my elders, but it's getting harder and harder to find any.
    If you go looking for trouble, it will usually find you.

  3. #3


    thanks, that is what i remember after i read what you wrote. it is terrable not to remember things like that. I read about hex head machine screws but had fogot about it. again thank you ever so much.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    ABQ NM
    Ralph, I second the recommendation for the hex head sheet metal screws. I use a socket bit on my cordless impact driver to put them in and take them out. A variable speed reversible drill also works nicely.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Goodland, Kansas
    I use hex head sheet metal screws also. I also use square drive screws also.
    Bernie W.

    Retirement: Thats when you return from work one day
    and say, Hi, Honey, Im home forever.

    To succeed in life, you need three things: a wishbone, a backbone and a funnybone.

  6. #6
    I am partial to Steel Wood Screws, Old school, I guess... They grip well (with proper pilot holes) have a thick shank next to the head where the Faceplate meets the screw. (this allows for greater shear resistance) Although all you can get is Phillips head (nowadays) I prefer slotted screws and I never re use them, Every time you tighten a screw it weakens its strength a resistance to shear. (stretches) Crystals the surface. (Just like you never reuse head bolts on high end or very important engine work. )

    Also, I never use a power driver to insert the screws as I believe they over tighten and reduce the grip. (this will either tear the wood fibers and make a weak hold or stretch the screw and weaken the metal) Proper Pilot hole and shank holes make "Manual" screw-driving as easy or more easy than trying to find the right bit and if the driver is charged and set on the right torque, My elbow and wrist are my torque wrench. (when one or the other pops or stabs me with severe pain, then I know it is tight enough )

    BTW, you mentioned Hot Glue... I used some the other day and when it became time to remove.... It would not budge, not wanting to distroy a very thin project, I opted to put it in the Freezer for a few minutes (got distracted and went off with the grandkids) next day I went and retrieved the frozen project and I stuck the blade of a puddy knife in the gap and it popped off, the glue shattered off the base of the project untill it began to warm. so I re-froze it for a few minutes and again was able to chip off the excess glue leaving a clean surface. (intact) I think I will do this next time as well.
    Last edited by Bill Simpson; 02-15-2009 at 04:24 PM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Mountain Home, Arkansas
    Bill, the hot glue method works best with an aluminum face plate.
    Put the glue on the face plate, position on the wood, heat with torch while holding down with something (other than your hand ). Allow to cool, it should hold quite well.
    When done, heat the face plate with torch until wood falls off. Most of the glue stays on the faceplate and what is on the wood can be removed with a chisel.

  8. #8


    thanks for all the help. now i feel like going out again to my shop. the other day i just gave up after so many hitches that came up. today hav been good so far. again thanks a heap for all the advise.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Alexandria, Virginia
    I use what ever I have handy. Some argue for brass screws because they are softer than any tool that might hit them. I'm not sure if that matters that much if you are attaching the faceplate to where you will latter be removing wood for the bowl interior.

    The first thing to do for screws that strip out is to use a faceplate with the maximum number of hole for screws; more screws, more holding power.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Reno, Nv
    I think anything that works and is handy would be the best, within reason. I use 1.25 deck screws...the kinda that have threads to the bottom of the pan. I gather we are talking bowls and utilizing all 4 screws on the faceplate. After 20 bowls, I've yet to have one break or the blank come flying off. Better to error on the side of caution and use a low TPI (8-10) for grip. I'm thinking shear and grip are the biggest issues.
    Your Respiratory Therapist wears Combat boots

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