A couple things come to mind, your blade choice, binding and lubrication.
First, what is the Threads Per Inch (TPI) of that blade, and the width of it? It looks fairly wide and with a high TPI, not good for cutting green blanks, as the blade would load up and then not cut.
I use Viking blades sold by Lee Valley (they used to be identified as "Timber Wolf") the one I use for cutting up turning blanks are 3/8" x 3 TPI, they work very well for this.
Second, when cutting any wood, the wood can pinch the blade, causing it to bind, which gives you excessive friction. I find this happens even more on green wood blanks I cut for turnings. Make up some small wedges, thin ones, when you get the cut past the blade an inch or two, stop, and tap in a wedge to keep the kerf open and not pinch the blade.
Third, lubrication, I find on green woods this is also very important, the green wood will fill up and gum up your blade in no time, even an aggressive blade like I use. I keep a can of Pam cooking spray nearby, and spray the blade with it, yes, no kidding. I spray the blade when it is dry, and let the Pam dry on the blade, as a coating, then I continue to spray the blade as I go along, it does not take much, just a squirt. The blade will still, eventually, get a build up of wood and such that it will need cleaning off, but when you do go to clean it, a soft brush, and the gunk comes right off, because the cooking spray has not let it become too attached.
Works for me
BTW, I've never had any trouble with finishing any wood after the cooking spray, I use this on resawing on Big Blue, my large resaw bandsaw as well.
I hope this helps!
The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.
William Arthur Ward