profile question, double bead

Tod, Larry, excuse my ignorance but I haven't been able to exactly understand how to do it.

I had the proper bit I would do it as in the *.doc sketch attached, that is both sides of the grove with the same bit and then plane away the top radius.

With 60º or 45º bit you could do do the same and after plane the top and side radius with a small block plane, or a beader as it has been suggested already.
But I do not understand the jig showed and how to achieve the wanted results.

Most problably I misunderstood the whole post, but I'm just asking and trying to help at the same time

Toni Ciuraneta said:

Tod, Larry, excuse my ignorance but I haven't been able to exactly understand how to do it.

I had the proper bit I would do it as in the *.doc sketch attached, that is both sides of the grove with the same bit and then plane away the top radius.

With 60º or 45º bit you could do do the same and after plane the top and side radius with a small block plane, or a beader as it has been suggested already.
But I do not understand the jig showed and how to achieve the wanted results.

Most problably I misunderstood the whole post, but I'm just asking and trying to help at the same time

Click to expand...

ok toni,, yu got the profile right your way would work but now enter in the curvy shape of the leg,, that is where tods 2 metal pins come into play ,,like a template pin on a router table to refernce against..they are close together so as to allow for a tight radius on the concave section but when going for the longer arches its gonna get tricky to maintain the same reveal.. but in his last fix idea, which was the pattern that is 1/2" narrower than a normal size of the leg that would allow a trim router to follow the shape uniformly with a template guide bushing in the router base plate..

larry merlau said:

ok toni,, yu got the profile right your way would work but now enter in the curvy shape of the leg,, that is where tods 2 metal pins come into play ,,like a template pin on a router table to refernce against..they are close together so as to allow for a tight radius on the concave section but when going for the longer arches its gonna get tricky to maintain the same reveal.. but in his last fix idea, which was the pattern that is 1/2" narrower than a normal size of the leg that would allow a trim router to follow the shape uniformly with a template guide bushing in the router base plate..

Click to expand...

Now I understand!
I think got mislead, by the fact that Tod suggested a fluting bit at the begining, and I thought that the jig helped to get the desired shape with that bit.

Hey Larry I feel like Toni, I have seen a guy somewhere on the web that hand made his own sratch tool to do exactly what you want. I have not got the time right now to hunt but I will look through my bookmarks because I remember thinking wow what a neat idea. If I remeber correctly he used a piece of old blade from either a heavy duty hacksaw or something of the kind. For a single job this would seem economical.

Since joining the forum and seeing all the guys knock out tools I have become very interested in make it myself tools and jigs. There is real satisfaction in this. I envy the guys like Mike Henderson and Stu and others I just cant think of right now who have a welder and a degree of metal working tools and who knock up their own versions of things.

Strange how life is, when i was younger I used to make all my own toys, then you grow up and start allowing the marketing of gadgets to get to you.

Later I will try find the scratch tool homemade version.

Rob your correct on the hack saw or reciporcating blade. you take and mount it in a piece of wood and clamp it i place after you grind the profile your after.. but when it comes to end grain and reversing grain you have to have your ducks in arow to maintain the profile it likes to follow the wood grain rather than your travel pattern. i got a good lesson on the blotchy box i made with one.. and that wasnt nearly as curvy as what i am i the middle of now.