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Thread: Bandsaw blade selection

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Bandsaw blade selection

    OK gang,
    With warmer weather on the 'near horizon', I'm thinking about placing an order for some blades for my BS. Suffolk has their buy 3 get 1 freee deal running still, but the question is what sizes... and what length blade.
    I"ve got the 14" HF with a riser block installed if you remember... I'm sure they'll know what length, but please remind me if you know.

    As for sizes, I was thinking of one each of 1/8, 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2". I'm planning on the 1/4 and/or 3/8 for 'general' use, and the 1/8 for some bandsaw boxes and such. 1/2 for some limited resaw duties; I fully realize that I don't have a powerhouse saw but I'd like to give it a try. I have a couple of really nice maple boards which I'd like to get the most out of, and a bookmatch with the curl that is there would be special indeed.

    IIRC the 1/4 twolf blades can make some pretty tight turns, so I might skip the 1/8 and go with a 3/4 for resaw, but again, I'm not sure that I could drive that much blade with my stock motor.
    -Ned

  2. #2
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    Ned, I'm about to install the riser on my Grizzly and will have to do exactly what you are asking about.
    Here is my advice, and what I am going to order: One 1/8", two 3/8"X6tpi; and one 3/4"X4tpi.
    I have found the 3/8" to be a very-very versatile blade. My friend, who has a large MM and does my cutting down of big hunks to manageable size for me, uses the 3/8" almost exclusively.
    I don't see much point to the 1/4" blade.

  3. #3
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    Thanks Frank! I think I'll adjust my list and order accordingly.
    -Ned

  4. #4
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    I believe you're looking at 105" blades with the riser block.
    My experience with resawing is a bit limited, but the 3/4" blade will serve you better because it will track more consistently through the wood. I just ran a 1/2" blade to resaw some 9" wide QS sycamore - it was a fairly frustrating experience. I switched to my 1" blade (same tpi) and things went much better. I'm using a Crescent 20" saw for resawing, which is great, except for the 1 hp motor driving the wheels. It works fine, but the feed rate is slow or the saw bogs down. That said, i've resawn 10" black walnut, 9" red oak, the sycamore i mentioned, and 8" mullberry - all with good results. More hp would be better, but you'd still need to be careful on the feed rate or you could heat up the blade, ruining the temper.
    I think you'd be fine resawing on your saw - doesn't it have a 1-1/2 hp motor?
    About the blades, for resawing, i'd go with the 3/4" with 3 or 4 tpi. Sounds like you've got a good handle on the others.
    Another good resource will be Timberwolf. When you call them up, tell them what you plan on doing. I'm sure they will have useful suggestions.
    Have fun with it.
    Paul Hubbman

  5. #5
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    Paul, Suffolk machinery is Timberwolf.
    I prefer the 4 tpi on the 3/4" because I have had catches with small (under 1" thick) pieces using a 3 tpi. The 4 cuts great, and, as you said, tracks very well with a 3/4" blade.

  6. #6
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    I just looked on HF's site, but they don't list the motor HP. I'll check when I get home. As Frank said, Suffolk is the source for Timberwolf blades. My mentor's old 12" craftsman perked up nicely when we put them on it, so I'm certain that they'll do just as well on this machine.
    -Ned

  7. #7
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    with an underpowered saw or fat wood less tpi work better `cause the motor dosen`t strain as much.
    for general purpose work 4tpi is what i use.
    i can cut a 3/4" dowel out of a 1x using a 1/4"x4 blade.
    for resawing straight lines more body behind the teeth helps.
    remember.....bandsaw blades are a disposbale item, the tips of the teeth will dull sometimes after only a couple of boards, so buying expensive blades may or may not be worth your money?
    bi-metal blades all seem to last about the same to me and i use a feeder so my tests have some validity.
    carbide is worth the money for a production shop but is not for anybody who cuts wet wood or bark.
    [SIZE="1"] associated with several importers and manufacturers.[/SIZE]

  8. #8
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    Ned, this is what I usually tell folks when they ask for this kinda info:

    http://www.allbandsawblades.com/how_to.htm

    Then I suggest calling Suffolk and tell 'em what you wanna do - they'll steer ya right.
    Jason Beam
    Sacramento, CA

  9. #9
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    Bandsaw blade selection

    Ned,

    Good information so far. Suffolk sounds like the source. I have mostly bought Olson PRO because my source here handles them. I have one 5/8" Timberwolf that I have not used yet.

    May I suggest using:
    3/4"x3T for your resawing only,
    1/2"x6T for general straight cutting,
    1/4"x6T for larger shape cutting,
    1/8"x10 or 14T for your intricate shape cutting.

    Actually I use my 1/2" and 1/4" the most.

    I have 3/8" and 5/8" blades that I never seem to use. No sense in spending for something that will hang on the wall gathering dust.

    I recently acquired a blade welder so I am going to experiment with that for a while. I cut both metal and wood (on different saws of course) so making blades from bulk rolls is cheaper, but I have to learn how to do good welds first.

    Aloha, Tony
    "You got to learn from the mistakes of others. You won't live long enough to make them all yourself". (Author unknown)

    "Time flies like..... an arrow,,,Fruit flies like..... a banana." Groucho Marx

    Ah,,,to live in Paradise!

    Registered voting member

    Fighting for all I am worth, and praying every day.

  10. #10
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    Success!!
    We now have him completely confused.
    Really, all good suggestions, albeit most from different perspectives and experience levels.

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