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Thread: Rust Problem

  1. #1

    Rust Problem

    I mentioned in my post yesterday that I recently purchased a Rigid planer. It is the older model with Base Cabinet. I noticed that the Left side of the table develops Rust in an area approx 8-10-inches. This has baffled me somewhat as the majority of the table remains smooth with (No) signs of Rust.

    Q- How can I best remove this, and how should I treat/apply something to prevent it?
    I've read that you should put a wax coating on both Jointer/Planer tables.I think the gentleman who owned this unit did regularly prior to selling.He upgraded to a B/Stone 8" Jointer.

    I don't have a moisture or dampness problem in my shop, and have no problem with any of my other tools rusting.


    Bruce N.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    The Heart of Dixie
    Emery cloth or fine grit sand paper will remove it. But there are about as many methods to remove rust as ways to cut wood. You will get other suggestions too.

    One of the old stand by's is wax the table with Johnson's furniture wax. I sometimes use Gulf Wax (paraffin) on tables so make it slide smoother. Just use something with no silicon in it. And I do mine maybe once a year. No rust problems.
    God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway,
    the good fortune to run into the ones I do,
    and the eyesight to tell the difference.

    Kudzu Craft Lightweight Skin on frame Kayaks.
    Custom built boats and Kits

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    St. Louis, MO
    for something like that i would use a chemical product. Abbrassion is a good way to remove surface rust, but if there's any pitting or you don't quite get all of it, you've removed most of it but haven't neutralized what's left. It will continue to come back, even if you cover it up with wax, paint, or oil.
    I know some folks use citric acid. I've never dabbled with that. For convenience sake, i use Boeshield "Rust Free". It works well, though there are other products that do the same thing. I just happens to be what i've got, so i use it.
    Immediately after using that, i'd go with the Johnson's Paste Wax. Apply it like car wax - rub it on, let it dry, buff it off. A couple of coats really make a difference. I wax my planer table each time i fire it up. The slicker table really helps the feed rollers do their job.
    Paul Hubbman

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    No, not all of SoCal is Los Angeles!
    I'm with Paul. Your recurring problem stems from not getting the culprit, you're just cleaning the visible part. I also like Rust Free. The main complaint I have is I can't get it locally without having to buy a "kit" that includes T-9 and a cleaner, both of which I find pretty useless.

    Take care and read the directions on the Rust Free. It is an acid and you can leave it on too long. Wear gloves. It is great for getting out those shadows that just won't sand out or 'go away' with other methods. I think it will take care of your perrineal rust as well.

    For protection I use Johnson's Paste Wax as others have described. I buff it out after it just starts to fog. I do a couple coats and re-wax several times a year (as in 8 to 10).

    For maintenance I wipe off the old wax with mineral spirits a few times a year and re-wax. If I have been extra neglectful I put a gray synthetic abrasive pad on a 1/4 sheet sander and work the mineral spirits around with that. I have a cheap little Makita that I reserve for just this duty when required. After cleanup, re-wax.
    Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.
    - Arthur C. Clarke

  5. #5
    I had a rust problem on my rigid jointer and tablesaw until my shop was built. All I did to clean it up was spray wd40 and use a red scotchbrite pad. I rubbed until it started to dry, wiped it with a clean rag and repeated the process. I haven't had a problem with rust in 2 years since I did that. To wax the surface I just use pledge.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    ABQ NM
    Alan, you may want to reconsider using the Pledge. It has silicone in it, and if that gets on a piece of unfinished wood it can cause problems when you apply the finish.

    I'm in the Johnson Paste Wax camp.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

  7. #7
    You learn something new every day. I read the label and didn't see anything about silcone in it. Used as long as I can remember and never had a problem when finishing. I guess I better change to a silcone fre wax now. Ignorance was bliss!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Oliver Springs, TN
    I cut down an oak about a month ago. My eight year old "helped" me. He wants to keep every scrap of wood that is ever made to make something. When I cut a wedge on the face cut he of course wanted to keep it. To make a long store short on his way into the house he laid the wedge on the jointer bed. I found it a couple days later and under the wedge was completely rusted. I used a single sided razor blade and scraped the rust off. I then used a scotch bright pad and WD-40 to clean the bed really well. I then put a nice coat of wax on. I can see a slight discoloration in the shape of the wedge but it took care of all the rust.

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