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Well, Toni, I was going to keep quiet about my mistake today, but since you manned up, I guess I better also. I cut out the bellows frame, but when I measured for the short pieces, I laid it out flat on the 3/8 side instead of on the ½ inch side, so when I cut the short pieces, I didn’t came up with the proper width. When I dry fit the lids, they were off. Luckily the Titebond hadn’t completely set up so I could disassemble it.

I ripped a bunch of 2” wide strips of Sitka Spruce for the pipes.

Since I'm to STUUPID to download pictures, I have to do it this way.

10 ft. board of Sitka Spruce
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc141/ECRody/Senior 20/10ftSitkaSpruceforthepipes.jpg

Two ft. section jointed on two sides.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc141/ECRody/Senior 20/2sectionjointed2sides.jpg

Spruce strips ripped to thickness.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc141/ECRody/Senior 20/Spruceripped2.jpg

I am going to use East Indian Rosewood for the top and bottom caps, so I ripped two strips to thickness, 4’ long. I found some beautiful Birdseye Maple veneer that I will face the front of the pipes with, up to the Rosewood. This picture shows the contrast and texture of the two woods.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc141/ECRody/Senior 20/RoosewoodandBirdseye.jpg

Can’t wait to get the pipes built and finished to see how it turns out. I was thinking BLO and Wipe on Poly based on what I have read, but have not used BLO before. Would this bring out the best in the woods?
 
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Chuck Rodekohr said:
Well, Toni, I was going to keep quiet about my mistake today, but since you manned up, I guess I better also. I cut out the bellows frame, but when I measured for the short pieces, I laid it out flat on the 3/8 side instead of on the ½ inch side, so when I cut the short pieces, I didn’t came up with the proper width. When I dry fit the lids, they were off. Luckily the Titebond hadn’t completely set up so I could disassemble it.

I ripped a bunch of 2” wide strips of Sitka Spruce for the pipes.

Since I'm to STUUPID to download pictures, I have to do it this way.

10 ft. board of Sitka Spruce
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc141/ECRody/Senior 20/10ftSitkaSpruceforthepipes.jpg

Two ft. section jointed on two sides.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc141/ECRody/Senior 20/2sectionjointed2sides.jpg

Spruce strips ripped to thickness.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc141/ECRody/Senior 20/Spruceripped2.jpg

I am going to use East Indian Rosewood for the top and bottom caps, so I ripped two strips to thickness, 4’ long. I found some beautiful Birdseye Maple veneer that I will face the front of the pipes with, up to the Rosewood. This picture shows the contrast and texture of the two woods.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc141/ECRody/Senior 20/RoosewoodandBirdseye.jpg

Can’t wait to get the pipes built and finished to see how it turns out. I was thinking BLO and Wipe on Poly based on what I have read, but have not used BLO before. Would this bring out the best in the woods?
Click to expand...

Man that is going to make some nice pipes. I may have to send you shopping for me one of these days:D

I would sure think that the BLO would pop the grain but to be honest I have never done it. I read about them doing it on the IAP site all the time to there pens and it look great.

How about it spiny guys will it work???:huh:

Jay
 
Organ Build

Yep BLO will pop the grain nicely. If you want it to dry quicker you can cut it 50/50 with Mineral Spirits the effect will be the same. I would suggest that you try it on a scrap piece to see how you like it. I totally agree that combination of woods will sure make some great looking pipes.
I will have to wait a while before I start anything though. I am going in for leg surgery on Tuesday and it sounds like I will be side lined for a few weeks, from what the Doc says, I will be following along though even if I can't get down to the shop and play.
Charles
 
Charles,

Good luck on your leg operation. I hope it goes well and you recover quickly. I’m going in the 29th for a total knee replacement. I want to get enough material cut to do the pipes while I’m convalescing. I figure that’s sit down work that won’t require stooping, lifting and twisting. Maybe we can compare stitches?

I’m reading up on finishing with Jeff Jewitt’s Complete Illustrated Guide to Finishing. I read somewhere here that BLO made the eyes pop. I think they said to sand to 400 first, but I don’t want to sand through the veneer. I understand that Rosewood is somewhat oily. Would that cause problems with BLO? I’ll give it a try on some scrap to see how it comes out.
 
Charles Hans said:
Yep BLO will pop the grain nicely. If you want it to dry quicker you can cut it 50/50 with Mineral Spirits the effect will be the same. I would suggest that you try it on a scrap piece to see how you like it. I totally agree that combination of woods will sure make some great looking pipes.
I will have to wait a while before I start anything though. I am going in for leg surgery on Tuesday and it sounds like I will be side lined for a few weeks, from what the Doc says, I will be following along though even if I can't get down to the shop and play.
Charles
Click to expand...


Sorry to hear about the surgery Charles but we will still be here to help you when you get back up and going and should have a lot of picture posted by then so you can see where we all screwed up :rofl::rofl::rofl:
And yes I still make mistakes :huh: :doh:

Jay
 
Jay,
I got up to hit the head about 1:20, got back into bed and started thinking "Gotta finish up the bellows, then start on the reservoir. Hope I understand the plans correctly.” Then it was all over, got up, went to the garage and finished the frame on the bellows. Now I’m sitting here watching the local news, just finished my third cup of coffee and I’m starting to nod off. IT’S NAP TIME!!! (Retirement is great!) :thumb:
 
OK, lets see if I can download pictures to this.

The first picture (should be) are the bellows.

The second picture should be the resevoir,

The third picture should be the bellows/resevoir assembly. The third picture isn't showing. I'll try putting it on a second post.
 

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  • Resevoir.jpg
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My Korg CA-30 chromatic tuner came so I guess it’s time to start making some pipes. With that in mind, I just put the 4th coat of wipe on poly to my pipe glue up jig. With today’s 96º temperature (only 80º in the gara . . . er. shop) and 29% humidity, it should dry well enough to “wax the heck out of it”, tomorrow, as Jay puts it.

Charlie, I’d like to thank you for your pictures of your reservoir. The plans for the frame weren’t real clear in my alleged mind, but your picture was. How is your arm coming along?

Tony, how is yours coming along? Has anyone else started theirs yet? Pictures?
 
Hey Chuck,
Thanks for asking. I got a new cast on Monday and my right wrist is pretty much locked in one position which makes wookworking difficult, if not dangerous (I'm right handed). Bad news is I've got to have it on for 4 weeks (which includes my son's wedding). But the doc says the prognosis for a full recovery is excellent.
 
Charlie Schultz said:
Hey Chuck,
Thanks for asking. I got a new cast on Monday and my right wrist is pretty much locked in one position which makes wookworking difficult, if not dangerous (I'm right handed). Bad news is I've got to have it on for 4 weeks (which includes my son's wedding). But the doc says the prognosis for a full recovery is excellent.
Click to expand...

Well Charlie congratulations on the son's wedding :thumb:and bad luck on the cast:(. Think of the positive take on things that this gives you time to study up on the plans and figure out what jigs you need to make:thumb:. Heal yourself and don't make things worse by even trying to work on things in the shop with the power tools. Unless you like adding your name to the list on the Darwin awards :eek::rofl::rofl::rofl:
 
Charlie,

Congrats on the son’s wedding. In the warm weather, the cast can get pretty ripe so stay down wind during the Bride’s Dance.:eek: Years ago, I broke by right (writing hand) wrist and it didn’t heal properly. I had my wrist in a cast for the better part of a year. You adapt to not having an opposable thumb. It never healed properly and over the years got worse so I had to have two of the bones removed and the other three fused, so it bends forward but is locked going back. You learn to adapt and overcome.
 
Charles,

How did the leg surgery go? Hopefully well, so you can get to figuring out those drawings :)rofl::rofl::rofl:) and make some sawdust. I went to a pre-op knee replacement clinic yesterday. I have to get a potty extender, that raises the terlet seat up a foot and has handles on the sides to help you get on and off. I’d hate to slip off the pot and get wedged between the commode and the wall until someone finds me! :eek:

Jay,

Are you using your radiate pine for the mouth piece or a hardwood? Do you think my Sitka Spruce would do well for the mouthpiece or should I use the rosewood?
 
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Chuck Rodekohr said:
Jay,

Are you using your radiate pine for the mouth piece or a hardwood? Do you think my Sitka Spruce would do well for the mouthpiece or should I use the rosewood?
Click to expand...

Just use the pine it will work just fine after sealing.

Hope everyone gets along OK and heals fast sorry to hear about everyones up coming Operations and such
Charlie would like to see one of the pips drawn out in SU

Jay
 
I assembled my first pipe, but it took a couple of tries to get it down correctly. I started with a bass F, but after I cut the sides of the pipe and glued up the back to one of the sides, I could see that the inside dimensions weren’t going to be exact. I am using spruce that I ripped to 1/8 from a larger board, adjusting the fence each time, so the boards aren’t exactly 3 mm (due to human error). This shouldn’t be a problem if you are going to use 3 mm Baltic birch. I could still salvage the half a pipe by turning it into an A# pipe by measuring a lot better and cutting the strips to size after measuring each individual strip’s thickness.

Picture #1 shows the back glued up to the side.

Picture #2 is of the end piece, mouth and front glued up.

Picture #3 is with the top and bottom rosewood caps, and a strip of Birdseye Maple veneer rough cut and set in place.

Picture # 4 is a close up of the caps and veneer.

I still have to glue up the air hole backing plate, drill the air hole, and make the plug before I can tune and voice it, but I will probably glue up the rest of the pipes before tune them. I am going to use Charles Supplee’s Alternative Pipe Mounting Technique (1) http://www.melright.com/busker/jsart39.htm to attach the pipes to the sound board, so I have some parts to get first.

Abacktoside.jpg


AToppiercemouthandtopgluedup.jpg


Awithcapsandveneer.jpg


ACloseup.jpg
 
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