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Thread: Organ build

  1. #501
    Jay,
    I would be very interested in US punched JS 20er rolls, $80+ US is pretty steep for 4 minutes of music from the U.K., that's more that an 'O' roll!

    Any details about prices, and songs?

    Ira,
    Cool tracker bar!

  2. #502
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Billings Missouri near Springfield Mo
    Posts
    3,950
    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Davis View Post
    Jay,
    I would be very interested in US punched JS 20er rolls, $80+ US is pretty steep for 4 minutes of music from the U.K., that's more that an 'O' roll!

    Any details about prices, and songs?

    Ira,
    Cool tracker bar!
    Gary so far I have 2 people wanting to know about rolls. I am waiting for the list of music from the guy but I know he is busy right now. He wants at lest 8 to 10 people to comment before he rebuilds his punch which with the cost involved I think that is only fair.

    Will keep everyone informed as I find info but would like to hear from more people who will want rolls.

    Jay

  3. #503
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Independence, Kentucky
    Posts
    1,010

    Organ build

    Jay I am getting ready to make the crank shaft and noticed that you used aluminum for the connecting rods? Or am I mistaken? I would like to get a better idea of how you made your connecting rods if you don't mind.
    Charles

  4. #504
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Salt Lake City, UT
    Posts
    35
    A quick update of the progress from this weekend. I don't have pictures of most items taken, but will do so tomorrow. I got the take-up spool manufactured, the lid lock down, and all the interlocking wheels done. The tracker bar is now mounted up as well. I think that at this point I am ready to start hooking up pipes!

    One interesting change I made to the drawings John provides is with the idler wheel clutch. I designed a slightly different way to do this that I like better. See the pictures below.

    The pictures were taken before the hole for the idler shaft was drilled in the middle solid block (made out of 2 layers of 3/4" baltic birch ply laminated together).

    When the "Switch" is straight up the idler wheel is engaged, when the switch is pulled to the side the wheel is disengaged. It works pretty well but if I were to build it again, I would make it so that there was about 1mm more difference in the height of the idler shaft between the two states.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Mobile Photo Oct 10, 2009 18 45 05.jpg   Mobile Photo Oct 10, 2009 18 45 30.jpg  

  5. #505
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Billings Missouri near Springfield Mo
    Posts
    3,950
    Quote Originally Posted by Charles Hans View Post
    Jay I am getting ready to make the crank shaft and noticed that you used aluminum for the connecting rods? Or am I mistaken? I would like to get a better idea of how you made your connecting rods if you don't mind.
    Charles
    Charles not sure why I missed this post but I will try to get some pictures of the crankshaft and how I built it up I can tell you it is 5/16" X 3/4" alum and easy to make ya need a good drill press tho.

    Off to the shop

    Jay

  6. #506
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Independence, Kentucky
    Posts
    1,010

    Organ build

    Thanks Jay. I have some aluminum and a drill press,
    so I am good there, and tapping holes is no problem.
    Charles

  7. #507
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Billings Missouri near Springfield Mo
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    Well Charles I didn't get it done as I wanted but here are some close up pictures and maybe this will help you get going.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    This is just to show the top edge drill the hole to fit the screw head first then drill the hole to tap and tap the hole all the way through do this before cutting the slot so its a solid piece after tapping cut the slot and the drill the head side so the screw goes through without interference.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    These are just some more picture to see the other sides.Click image for larger version. 

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    Now if anyone wants I will make up a bunch of these as when I bought the alum I could only find it in an 8' length so I have plenty I can cut you blanks or make the block complete your chose

    I have this set up in 2 organs and it works great with out a hitch.

    Jay

  8. #508
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Poway, CA, near San Diego
    Posts
    154
    Hi folks,
    Here is a picture where you can see my crankshaft. I made the throws from steel. (because I had it) I glued it together with loctite (not sure of the number, the red permanent kind) Then I drilled through each joint and drove in a dowel pin. Did the same on the 26 note. Still working fine.

    By the way, there was an organ rally in Sutter Creek, CA last weekend.
    I was there, and a buddy of mine that has built a busker and senior.
    Check this out:

    Huge new Raffin 31/100 (Not homemade):


    Wurlitzer 103:


    Me:


    Large Bruder (From last year):


    Plus a few stills:
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/unfortunate_bystander/sets/72157622572727426

    Good luck,
    Bob

  9. #509
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Billings Missouri near Springfield Mo
    Posts
    3,950
    Nice stuff Bob Thanks for post this. Your 26 sounds great but you are like me I just cant seem to find the time to finish up the case been having to much fun playing it and now John has me talked into building a Topsy (so may pipes so little time)

    Jay

  10. #510
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    somewhere east of Queen Creek, AZ - South East of Phoenix
    Posts
    8,066
    You organ builders remind me of the Irish song "Oh Danny boy, the pipes, the pipes are calling.."
    "There’s a lot of work being done today that doesn’t have any soul in it. The technique may be the utmost perfection, yet it is lifeless. It doesn’t have a soul. I hope my furniture has a soul to it." - Sam Maloof
    The Pessimist complains about the wind; The Optimist expects it to change;The Realist adjusts the sails.~ William Arthur Ward

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