...and since I started it, I'll post the 1,000th post. Shameless run-up! :rofl:

BTW, Jay. Getting a care package ready? Not that I need it yet. Just trying to stay on topic.
 
WELL THIS BLOWS........my bellows that is. :thumb::thumb::thumb:

I spent the weekend getting my bellows covered and hoping and crossing my fingers that they would hold air. I fitted the spill valve tonight and when I first pumped it up no air would hold in the reservoir. I checked all the screws and such but could not get it to hold anything.:dunno:
Then it dawned on me that I hadn't installed the spring yet. Fitted the spring in place then tried them again and.... THAR SHE BLOWS....... it seems to pump and hold very good pressure. I'll have to make my water gauge tomorrow but I placed a 3/4 quart (approx 1 lb??) can of shellac on the lid and lifted it to the top and plugged the hole. It took about 30 seconds for it to deflate. I'm feeling pretty good about it now. Can't wait to get started on the pipes but all these little details seem to be taking forever.

Tom
 
Tonight I got started cutting out my pipes. After looking at the plans and talking with Jay I was made aware that the measurements on the inside of the pipes is very precise. Sometimes a matter of only .50 mm. That's 1/2 mm!!!. That's smaller than the width of a pencil mark. I have never cut anything to that close of tolerances before. I began to worry if I had a saw that could do that. I bought a new 14" Grizzly 550X band saw last summer but have only used it to rough out bowl blanks for my lathe. Hardly anything precise. I started to look at other options, then thought....hey ...this saw should be able to do it if I took the time to set it up.

The first thing I did was set my fence at 11mm from the blade and made a "test" cut. I then took my calipers and measured the cut. 11.03 mm. Wow...I thought. From one end of the cut to the other 11.03 mm. I then moved the fence by watching the markings about 1/2 mm and made another cut....11.52 mm WOW...can it really be that straight. The answer was ..yes. I cut about 40 stripes of 1/8" Baltic Birch ply at various widths (with each cut changing by only 1mm or less) and was able to "set" each cut and got great smooth straight cuts. I am VERY impressed with this saw. I measured each piece as it came off the saw from one end of the strip to the other and am very happy.

Oh, and I thought that while I was setting up each cut I might as well cut "extras" so now I have enough for at least two sets of pipes....just in case I feel the need for another organ later on :D :D

Tom
 
Really glad to hear that Tom I was worried about you cutting it on the band saw.

So guys no more excuses about not have table saws, chop saws or anything else Tom is proving what I said all along that you can build this Organ with very few tools IF ya want to. :D

Nice job Tom :thumb::thumb::thumb::thumb:
 
Well, the blade was my other concern. It is a big "Timberwolf" 3/4" blade. It's either 3 or 4 teeth per inch. It's a real aggressive blade I got just to rough out bowl blanks but It did a very good job. I will have some sanding to do but nothing more than I would have expected.

Tom
 
I need to update my progress on cutting these strips of ply for my pipes. New night...very different results.
Last night I cut out all of the "A" width strips...all went well. :)
Tonight I cut out all the "B" width strips. NOT so well :(
The "B" strips are much wider than the "A" and it caused me much more problems. I also was trying to hold too large of a sheet of ply for my work surface and the results were not nearly as smooth or straight. I started with the largest and worked my way to the smallest. The cuts were MUCH better when working with the smaller pieces and cuts. I'm only mentioning this in case anyone else wants to try using their band saw for this. I believe the biggest key is keeping the work piece small enough that you can handle it without allowing it to wiggle around as you feed it through the saw. I suppose this is a rule for any kind of saw and cut however if your trying to cut very precise cuts like this it is very important.

I believe I have them all cut now. I will have to do some good sanding on the ones tonight and see where I'm at. If all goes well I could start gluing them up this weekend.

Tom
 
Does anyone have any thoughts about how to keep the source roll and take-up roll coplanar? Is it practical to just skew the tracker-bar to let the paper be in correct alignment? how about adding guide rail (1 or 2mm) along the sides of the tracker-bar? Would that mess up the paper roll edges?
 
Paul, we need to add "spacers" on each side of the takeup spool (on the shaft) to keep it from moving side to side. If it stays in line the paper should pull through straight without the need for guide rails.
The space is pretty tight in there so I'm thinking of making little "C" shaped clips to fit onto the take up spool shaft that can then be pryed off if I need to remove the takeup spool for some reason. I have not done this yet so do not know if it works or not...just a thought.
Tom
 
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Drill and install a screw in one of the end flanges and when you have it where it is need drill a dimple into the shaft threw the screw hole. then you can use a locking collar on the backside ( crank side) to keep the shaft from moving side to side.

Can get a picture if needed
 
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Well that sounds easy enough Jay. I guess I do have mine screwed to the shaft but I think right now my whole shaft moves around a little.

Here is what I've been up to the last 36 hours. I have them all framed up. I need to sand them down and seal them plus make the stoppers and face plates. Oh..and drill them...then find a way to fit them inside.

Tom
 

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Jay are you talking about the take-up spool?

not sure about terminology --

I am kind of dense--- a photo of what you are saying would really help!

thanks
paul
 
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my spool is attached to the shaft via a screw through shaft and a turned disk inserted inside the tube -- disk will not spin inside the tube. that does not keep the spool from having lateral movement nor does it keep the spool inline to the tracker bar and the source spool.
 
Hey guys/gals...I'm having a bit of trouble locating the lid hinge (the one mounted on the side that folds in half when the lid is closed) for this project. I drove to Indianapolis today and went to both Rockler and Woodcraft stores and neither of them had anything close. I think Chuck had said he got his at Woodcraft but the sales people at that store could not find anything like that in their store. Anyone got any ideas?

Tom
 
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