Jay,
I ordered from Peter at RollCutter. I sent him an e-mail about it, but no answer yet.

If possible, a photo of the bellows/reservoir would be appreciated, thanks.

Charlie here is what it all looks like without the bellows cloth installed hope it helps
Bellows 1 small.jpg
spacer between the bellows

Bellow open 1 small.jpgBellow open 2 small.jpg
Bellows open

res-bellow.jpg
res on top of bellows

res open.jpg
res open

bellow join.jpgbellow res join.jpg
bellows cloth used to join and seal bellow together then res is screwed to top of bellow with a seal around the edge to make air tight. ( I have a lot of seal for those that need it)
 
Toni add Dean to your list as he has already started his build and has a blog started so we can all keep up with him. I'm still working on Royall:rofl:

Jay


OK, OK, Jay:eek: PM the cost and the how to's and I'll at least get the plans coming:D Geez twist any harder and I won't be able to build anything!:rofl:

Maybe I should sell the popcorn to the spectators to off set the build!:D

:lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk:
:lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk:
 
OK, OK, Jay:eek: PM the cost and the how to's and I'll at least get the plans coming:D Geez twist any harder and I won't be able to build anything!:rofl:

Maybe I should sell the popcorn to the spectators to off set the build!:D

:lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk:
:lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk::lurk:

I knew we would get you sooner or later. :rofl::rofl::rofl:
Here is Johns email address best just to ask him with you time differences you should have a answer when you get up as he check for orders in the a.m. and he is 6 hr ahead of me and I think you are 4 hr behind me. Do you have Skype?
Depending on when you go to bed you may have a answer tonight yet.

rsmithbusker"AT"ntlworld.com replace the "AT" with @

Welcome aboard Royall
Jay
 
Last edited:
OK here goes with the Pipe build I hope everyone can figure it out if not speak up and I will try to do a better job of explaining. Going to try to give enough info so everyone reading this can build this pipe and make it play after that you will need to buy the plans from John Smith.

Pipe width is easiest to cut using mm if you want it to be in inch's just divide by 25.4 (Pipe is 8 percent bigger then finished pipe to allow for trimming)

101_1039.JPG
Cut out the pipe pieces out of 1/8" stock 2-14mm x 6 7/8 (top and back) and 2-23.5mm x 6 7/8 (sides) The inside measurement should be 14mm x 17.5mm so you will have to adjust the sides for the thickness of stock you are using.

101_1050.JPG
This shows marking where the mouth goes mark it up so the top of mouth is 3/4" from end of pipe. Mark all three part at the same time (2 sides and back)


101_1040.JPG101_1041.JPG101_1043.JPG
This shows how I glue them up on the jig ( I'm showing 2 pipes here) this is the side (on bottom) and the top (on edge) just put glue on the edge and push down with the clamps and use something square to line them up, the glue will set enough to hold in less than 5 min so you can move along pretty fast.

101_1044.JPG
This shows the top after cutting off the end cap and the mouth insert (cut just a little long as you will sand them down later), that leaves the right length for the front opening without cap. Use the part you have glued to get the length of the 2 small parts as shown on the top of picture on the other pipe. (hope thats clear)

101_1045.JPG101_1047.JPG101_1048.JPG101_1049.JPG
This shows sanding an edge on the top just make it a pretty flat angle and the edge of mouth piece about 45 or so.

continue on next post.
 
Last edited:
101_1052.JPG101_1053.JPG101_1057.JPG101_1055.JPG
This shows gluing up the bottom & mouth, Make sure its sq and then glue the other side on and clamp make sure your joints are sq and tight.

101_1058.JPG101_1059.JPG101_1060.JPG
Now glue the top in as shown aliening with the top of pipe and clamp

101_1062.JPG
After sanding the top flat you should have a flat spot on this edge that needs to be at lest 1mm (1/16") wide. If not sand as picture below with a small sanding stick

101_1063.JPG101_1064.JPG


Next post
 
and he is 6 hr ahead of me and I think you are 4 hr behind me. Do you have Skype?

Welcome aboard Royall
Jay

I sent the email off. If I read correctly earlier in the tread John is in England? When I sent the mail it was 6:30 PM Friday and 4:30 AM Saturday morning in Jolly Old England. I don't have Skype, but I have Magic Jack. Same thing I guess. I didn't give him the phone number as it would be difficult to explain tot the wife at this time if she took the call. Better to say sorry later than argue about it now:D
 
101_1065.JPG
Glue a 1/4" block 1 1/2" long to back of pipe and drill a hole from the other side to match the tubing you will use, this one is 5/16" shoot for a snug fit

101_1067.JPG
Cut a shim from a pop carton or what ever as shown. It must be .5mm (or less NOT more) thick and I know that pop cartons are the right thickness just lightly sand the paint off as shown this is a critical measurement. Glue to pipe.

101_1068.JPG
Now cut a bottom cap 1mm longer than needed and glue to bottom set it just above the mouth about 1mm not critical (just make sure its a little above the mouth) Then cut a top as seen under my thumb (about 1 1/2" long or what ever length you want and cut and sand a 45 deg edge on it.
Also make a plug as shown and cut a piece of chamois as shown plug is just smaller than top opening of pipe sand to size as needed.


101_1070.JPG101_1071.JPG101_1072.JPG
Put a dab of glue on plug and glue to chamois, install into end of pipe. This needs to be a snug fit you want no leak here but you also need to move it up or down to get on note. Check pipe for leaks by blowing on bottom if you have any leaks they will need to be sealed to make pipe play right. Sealing the pipe is the most important it can not have any leakage. I use shellac to seal the inside of the pipes

101_1075.JPG
Use a rubber band to attach the top cap so you can move it up and down while blowing in the hole in back to voice the pipe. This is something that you might want to watch the video by Phil Radford that I posted a few posts back. I couldn't find it ether so here it is http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_CPxaEfFhGI&feature=related

101_1074.JPG
Last picture is of the tinner when its on note you do that by sliding the plug up or down. I was getting tired when I done this as it should be set at D# not D and I was running out of breath.

If you have any questions just ask once you are done building this pipe you are well on your way to building an organ.

Enjoy

go to post #156
 
Last edited:
I sent the email off. If I read correctly earlier in the tread John is in England? When I sent the mail it was 6:30 PM Friday and 4:30 AM Saturday morning in Jolly Old England. I don't have Skype, but I have Magic Jack. Same thing I guess. I didn't give him the phone number as it would be difficult to explain tot the wife at this time if she took the call. Better to say sorry later than argue about it now:D

Royall he will more than likely just send email not sure as to how early he gets up but I do know that he check his email in the a.m.
I also told him I was trying to get a guy from Hawaii to join us so he knew you were coming :rofl::rofl:
Jay
 
Jay,
Thanks for the bellows and pipes photos- very helpful! A few more questions:
1. What are the dimensions for the spacer between the two bellows?
2. Do you have a good source or sub for the bits of piano wire?
3. Would a thin bead of caulk be ok for sealing (e.g. reservoir to bellows)?

Charlie
 
Thats not bad. There is also some free software packages - so if you have a mic for your pc, you might be able to do it for free.
 
Jay do you find that there is any particular material that is better for building the pipes? I notice that you are using what looks like door skin for your pipes. Any particular reason for that?

You can build the pipes out of almost anything but you should alway use hardwood of some type on the front parts. This pipe is build from 3mm (1/8") Baltic Birch ply with a soft maple plug. Even Oak will work if that is all you have BUT its best to use something with a more closed grain.
I also like building the body's of the pipes from pine, Sugar pine would work Great if you can get that up there or basswood.

The easy answer is, its what I had in front of me:rofl:

The tuner I have I got from the local music store just don't get one that is only for guitars

The one Toni shows is a good one and thats a very good price.
Jay
 
Jay,
Thanks for the bellows and pipes photos- very helpful! A few more questions:
1. What are the dimensions for the spacer between the two bellows?
2. Do you have a good source or sub for the bits of piano wire?
3. Would a thin bead of caulk be ok for sealing (e.g. reservoir to bellows)?

Charlie

Charlie I just use a piece of 1/8" Baltic birch and the width is determined by the top part of the bellow I glue it to one side over the bellows cloth and just butt it up to the other side the Video will show you when you get it. Just remember the bottom of the bellow will need to move up and down without interference.
The piano wire I get from the local model airplane shop. The drive shaft rods I get from a farm supply or from Lowe's or HD or a good Hardware store.

I wouldn't use caulk to seal it there as you may want to remove it at some point if you cant find some weather striping that will work let me know I have a bunch of seal tape let from when I had my CNC that works great.

Good questions Charlie:thumb:
Jay
 
Top