Medicine cabinets and Bathroom remodel update

OK I finished the kitchen remodel for the guys up coast a ways and now I'm getting things going for the bath remodel. I've got the vanity all cut out (photos will be in another post) but I need to build a matching medicine cabinet that will fit between the studs (16" centers). I plan on using 1/2" birch ply at this point and a rail and stile door with bead board field to match the vanity. Question, when making one of these, do you make them deeper than the cavity into the wall allows or keep them flush to the sheet rock? Or is it just to personal choice? With a max of 14 1/2", how tall can I go with out making it look out of proportion?

Thanks in advance for your help:thumb:

PS. I plan on cutting some glass for shelves. What is a good way to soften the edge to keep fingers from getting cut. I think I knew once but forgotten:rofl:
 
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hi royall!!

are they going to be good to go with a medicine cabinet that is only 14.5" outside width? that's that space you have to work with, taking into consideration the standard 1.5" stud. you take off another 1" for the plywood sides, and there is only a 13.5" wide usable space. for a wider usable space, here is what i would do. if it were a non load bearing wall, i would cut the first set of studs, then frame in a box the width i wanted, attaching to the next set of studs, and to the ends of the studs that were cut.
 
Though about that Dan, but the back side of that wall faces the living room. And I just don't want to have to patch the other side due to the SR nails or screw pulling back through.:( I'll talk to the owners today when I go up to have another look-see. The wall it going on it to the right side of the vanity and is only 23" from the corner to the door trim.

I'll take some more photos while I'm up there today.:thumb:

Thanks,
 
Medicine cabinets

Morning Royall,

I think you are good to go with that width cabinet. I would consider an additional 1" or 1.5" depth and let the cabinet stick out from the wall a little. I take it you will have a large mirror on the wall above the vanity? That would be the only reason I can see for not making the med cab there.

As far as dressing the edges of the glass shelves, I have used my belt sander with a fine (220 or so) grit belt. Run the belt paralell to the edge (not crossways) If you felt ambitious, you could do it with a diamond hone like you use for sharpening chisels and planes. I'd just use the belt sander and go lightly and keep moving so you don't build too much heat. Works for me.

Keep us posted.

Aloha, Tony
 
Thanks Tony, no mirror as it will be on the wall to the right of the vanity. They want an oval mirror in front of the sink. The cabinet door will look like the vanity doors. Those are like the kitchen cabinets, rail and stile with bead board.

PS. Got the headstock ready for a box. I'll send it off soon.
 
Medicine cabinets

Yeah, That's what I meant, "mirror over the sink, med cab on the right wall.
Correct?

I wouldn't go any taller than, or maybe not even as tall as the oval mirror.

Aloha, Tony
 
also, this sounds like it gonna be very shallow too. 3 1/2" for the stud, and probably another 1/2" to 3/4" for the sheet rock. finished depth 3 3/4" to 4 1/4". also. you can probably pick up the shelves from a glass company. cut to the size you want, and ready to go. as far as using a belt sander goes, i would think that glass dust would be a little more dangerous than sawdust.
 
Thanks for the replies. Cathie and I drove up to the project today to a have a look see. (first time she's seen it sense the first walk though) I pounded the wall where the vanity is to go and got frustrated. Started poke a nail here and there and found wood going in all kinds of directions so took my rock saw out and cut a hole about center to where the cabinet is going. I've got studs closer than 16", leaving me with 12" between the studs and a cross member between the studs about 14" up from where the top of the vanity will be. Also there is wiring running down the inside of one stud that will be in the way. It had been already planned that I was going to fish a wire from the light over the vanity to a spot centered over the new shower. Today the customer decided they want a separate light switch for the new shower light. With that I'm going to just pull that section of rock off the wall where the cabinet is going and make the necessary changes to get the wiring placed so I have a bit more room for the cabinet. Thought I had a start date of the 30th but they want to start on the 23rd now:D
 
I made one out of white oak for our bathroom. It is basically the same height of the mirror and is inset in the wall to the right of the vanity. I cut 1/4" dados at even intervals and put 1/4" plate glass shelves in the slots. There are 2 extra shelves, one flush at the top and bottom of the cabinet for when my kids break one. I had the glass cut with the edges sanded.
 
With a max of 14 1/2", how tall can I go with out making it look out of proportion?

The "golden mean" or "divine proportion" is 1:1.618034 so 14.5 * 1.618034 = 23.461493 sooooo . . . 14.5 wide and 23.5 tall fits that method. Now 14.5 is between your studs so I assume your frame/door will be a bit wider so just recalculate.

Here's a bunch of stuff on that but there are more interesting sites . . . Google-away.

http://www.math.temple.edu/~reich/Fib/fibo.html
 
I made one out of white oak for our bathroom. It is basically the same height of the mirror and is inset in the wall to the right of the vanity. I cut 1/4" dados at even intervals and put 1/4" plate glass shelves in the slots. There are 2 extra shelves, one flush at the top and bottom of the cabinet for when my kids break one. I had the glass cut with the edges sanded.

Thanks Paul, I hadn't even thought of the thickness yet! I guess I better get something on paper so I can get it ordered. Good idea to of extra pieces.:thumb:

The "golden mean" or "divine proportion" is 1:1.618034 so 14.5 * 1.618034 = 23.461493 sooooo . . . 14.5 wide and 23.5 tall fits that method. Now 14.5 is between your studs so I assume your frame/door will be a bit wider so just recalculate.
Here's a bunch of stuff on that but there are more interesting sites . . . Google-away.
http://www.math.temple.edu/~reich/Fib/fibo.html

You came through again Glenn!:thumb: After going up there yesterday I find that I've only got 12" to work with so far. Just have to find my calculator now....:D
 
Hey Royall

You cant complain that is an easy job.:rofl::rofl: Where I came from you had to first chip away the plaster (not plaster board :rofl:) then see if there are any metal conduits then get an agle grinder with a 8 inch wheel and masonary blade and cut the area out of the brick. Then get the chisel and hammer and start chipping. When you get all the brick out you can then set about positioning your cabinet and fixing up the mess and plaster again.:(

But fear not there was an easier way, we just put the thing on the wall.:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:

hey do I you intend to ever reply to my questions on your house build :wave::rofl:
 
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