Another crack thread

Rennie Heuer

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Constantine, MI
But, it's not what you think.

For a very long time my jointer has been giving me fits because I never seem to get it just right. I've replaced the fence a couple of times and got it close, sometimes, but never "right on". Now I know why. I discovered this while doing some fine tuning earlier today.:(
DSC_0008.jpgDSC_0009.jpg
This has produced a slight belly in the in-feed table that allows me to read the fence at 90* in one place, but not another. Well, I guess I need to order a part.:type:
 
:doh:And I was hoping for some cool YouTube "crack-like addicting" video links...:rolleyes:

That is a bummer Rennie. Any idea how it could have happend?
 
thats a bummer rennie,, you been workin it to hard latly:) how would you ever break it in there ? and will the part be cost effective?
I don't remember ever having it drop, but :dunno:
This jointer has been driving me batty for years. I figured it was me!:rofl: As for the cost, don't know yet waiting to hear back from Delta service center.

:doh:And I was hoping for some cool YouTube "crack-like addicting" video links...:rolleyes:

That is a bummer Rennie. Any idea how it could have happend?
:dunno::dunno:
Sorry to disappoint you on the title.:D

doesnt look good.
Hope you can fix it up Rennie.
Me too! I'm supposed to hear from Delta within 24 hours.
 
Hmmmmm, ....... FlexSteel tools are supposed to be Good, But FlexIron, NOT!!!:eek::(

What a Bummer, Rennie, but it's good you found it now rather than later. I hope you can get a replacement part that is cost effective before you have to start a new project. Good Luck.
 
OK - this isn't good

Here is the answer from Delta,

[FONT=&quot]Thank you for contacting Delta Machinery. Regretfully, the base, front, and rear tables can not be supplied because they must be machined together for accuracy and true alignment, making this repair cost prohibitive. I encourage you to contact your nearest factory service center, listed below, for other options if available. Be sure to have the model/cat number and complete serial number available at the time of contact.[/FONT]

What I think they're saying is, "time to buy a new jointer". Could not have come at a worse time.:doh:
 
I'm not sure what part that is Rennie, from the pic's supplied. You can braze iron. It might mean re-machining the face of the fence? If you knew someone with a surface grinder that wouldn't be much problem. We did that kind of repair to dies many times.
 
I'm not sure what part that is Rennie, from the pic's supplied. You can braze iron. It might mean re-machining the face of the fence? If you knew someone with a surface grinder that wouldn't be much problem. We did that kind of repair to dies many times.
That's the in-feed table Paul. I once took the fence to a major machine shop in the area and they said the could not flatten it for me - I suspect that would not be able to this either. Maybe I should try another machinist? I think part of the problem is the irregular shape of the base and getting it to present a flat face to the milling head. Could be wrong.:dunno:
 
If you do decide to try and braze it, don't forget to drill a hole at the end of the crack to stop it. I don't know if it would help to try and pull it together with a bar clamp and then braze it. Either way it wouldn't hurt to try. Of course maybe this is a sign telling you it is time to upgrade to a larger jointer:D.
 
If you do decide to try and braze it, don't forget to drill a hole at the end of the crack to stop it. I don't know if it would help to try and pull it together with a bar clamp and then braze it. Either way it wouldn't hurt to try. Of course maybe this is a sign telling you it is time to upgrade to a larger jointer:D.
Believe me, this crossed my mind. I kinda like the price on the 8" grizz with the spiral cutter head for under a grand. Now, if I just had a job.:rofl:
 
Sorry about that Rennie.

Brazin is an option but it will need remilling afterwards, besides it may generate some built in tensions on the piece that could eventually develop in other cracks or deformations, brazing such a big piece need thorough heating all over the piece before brazing.

Maybe, (and I'm not an expert at all), you could make some sort of mechanical joint with bolts and metal strips that would close the crack, and restore the original surface to position.

If the bottom line is a replacement I would give it a try before giving up on it.
Or what about laminating a layer of hard wood and plane it true by hand?

Or metal sheetof about 1/8" fixed with countersunk bolts and milled true? that would stiffen the bed without having to mess with the crack.:dunno:

I'm only brainstorming on my own:)
 
Toni has a good idea. If you could drill a hole on each side close to the web and use maybe a piece of 3/8" allthread, maybe you could pull the crack back together.
 
Ouch, Rennie. Wish there were better news! :doh:

Don't know what to tell you, but I do know a guy who does. There's not a better woodworking writer working today (if you don't believe me, read his "Living life in a yeller bus" http://www.twistedknotwoodshop.com/moving.htm

This is a guy who shops at a landfill, and makes things for his shop out of what he finds there. He even made the equivalent of a oneway lathe from a piece of steel tube.

Anyway, he runs a listserv a few of us are on. And he's right around the corner from you in your neck of the woods: Ronan, MT. OK, I just looked that up, and it's a mere 435 miles from you, but hey, it's the west, and miles are shorter there... :rofl::rofl::rofl:

Anyway, he might know if there's any possible remedy. It's worth a try... :dunno:

Thanks,

Bill
 
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How bad is it?

I measured the 'belly' in the table. At its worst it is .005". That's measured with a straight edge laid perpendicular to the table and using a feeler gauge under the straight edge at about the center line of the table.

I'm not too smart on this kind of thing, so tell me. Is the .005" catastrophic or is it something I can live with or work around?:huh::dunno:
 
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