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Thread: Dewalt DW746 hybrid table saw modifications

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Whittier, CA, USA
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    512

    Dewalt DW746 hybrid table saw modifications

    I have a Dewalt DW746 hybrid table saw that has served me well. I have made two modifications to it (so far).

    Fence Mod ------------------------------------------------------

    It came with a single face that can be moved from one side to the other as needed. I rarely used the right side of the fence but it was annoying to move the face from one side to the other and clamping a sacrificial fence was difficult. I was also tired of small items falling off the fence arm. I was going to make a face from some MDF when I saw a brand new complete fence on eBay. Had a WOOHOO moment after winning it with the $20 initial bid.

    I used the the face and the stud holding plate from the new fence and added screws and extension nuts. I will use the remaining fence assembly to build out a router fence system utilizing the table saw guide bars later.

    1. Remove the fence faces from both fences.

    2. Cut the studs back on one stud plate. Turn new threads on them. Place the extension nuts with Threadloc on them.

    3. Pop the studs off the other stud plate.

    4. Layout and drill holes on the new fence face.

    5. Install original fence face, stud plate with extension nuts on left side of fence.



    6. Install new fence with holes and the other stud plate with new screws on right side of fence.



    7. Wiggle, align, square and tighten the new fence configuration.







    Splitter Mod ----------------------------------------------------------

    The safety device that came with the saw is the typical not quite right device that most manufactures send with their table saws, I removed it and never used it. After considering the kickback incidents I've experienced over my woodworking years I decided to make my own riving knife inspired by Bob Ross's BORK, but after speaking with him I realized there wasn't enough space behind the blade to accommodate a riving knife dropping into the casting below the table. So on to a simpler fitted splitter.



    1. UNPLUG THE SAW!

    2. Remove the blade and original splitter bracket.



    3. Layout and drill third hole into the casting.

    4. Tap the two existing holes and the new one for 1/4-28 threads. The original manufactures holes were nicely milled in cast bosses.



    * Yes I just drilled into the iron casting, the decision was made after much careful thought regarding all consequences and it is a safe decision for me. It is 1/4" hole in the middle of a large 3/8" thick casting, the warranty expired 2 years ago and the screw to be used in this position is for alignment purposes only.

    5. Make a template for the bracket plates. I like using milk bottle plastic, more durable than cardboard or paper.

    6. Layout, cut and drill the bracket plates from stainless steel .125" sheet stock using a jig saw and drill press. I finished the shape with a file and Ridgid bench top sander. I flattened and polished the plates using wet/dry sanding paper.



    7. I initially used c-nuts, they are a type of lock nut, for the bracket. But they really tore up the grade 2 screws I was using. I changed over to grade 8 hardware and jam nuts instead.

    8. Assemble and install the brackets to rough alignment.



    9. Measure, layout and cutout splitter blade. I used .110" 6061 sheet aluminum stock and did the cutting on my bandsaw. I finished using the wet dry paper and the Ridgid bench top sander. Final fitting was done with a file. The splitter goes through a cutout in the zero clearance insert, has shoulders that rest on the top two bracket screws and an alignment slot at the bottom that goes over the screw I drilled and tapped for. I made two splitters, one to handle cuts to 1 1/2" and one for full blade extension.



    10. Measure, layout and cut the slot in the zero clearance insert. I muscled through it with a regular drill bit on the drill press and then realized I should have chucked and used a cutting bit from my rotary tool. Next time.



    11. Install everything. Final fitting, tweaking and alignment. I placed a drop of white grease on the brackets to ease removing and installing the splitter.





    Last thoughts:

    * I made the decision to make these changes and assume my own risks. You should do the same when considering making changes to your power equipment.

    * Fitting the shape of the splitter to the blade influenced my decision to use aluminum stock... just in case I crank the blade up a bit to far.

    * I picked my raw material from the cutoff bins at my local metal dealer. Remember to take micrometers or calipers with you to be certain of the stock thickness. I prefer to use micrometers because the cutoff pieces often have deformed edges that the calipers can't reach over, plus they easily fit in my pocket.

    * Total cost was about $23 for everything for the fence.

    * Total cost was about $11 for everything for the splitter.

    Dan Gonzales
    Whittier, CA, USA
    Dona nobis pacem

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Kansas City, Missouri
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    13,452
    Thanks Dan...sorry I missed this...good stuff!
    Darren

    To a small child, the perfect granddad is unafraid of big dogs and fierce storms but absolutely terrified of the word “boo.” – Robert Brault

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Tokyo Japan
    Posts
    15,807
    I missed this one too, you did a great job of showing what you did Dan, looks like it works well too!
    The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.
    William Arthur Ward

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Delton, Michigan
    Posts
    17,474
    i quess i was to busy gettun ready for the tour dan this is great idea and one that i think i can use for my saw,, the splitter part.. so you have it just snug fit so you can remove it easily or do you take the time to snug up the splitter?
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Whittier, CA, USA
    Posts
    512
    Quote Originally Posted by larry merlau View Post
    .. so you have it just snug fit so you can remove it easily or do you take the time to snug up the splitter?
    It's a very snug fit with a light coat of white lithium grease.

    Dan Gonzales
    Whittier, CA, USA
    Dona nobis pacem

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Delton, Michigan
    Posts
    17,474
    well i am one less in the blade department, had one lock up at 45??? dont know what cuase it but it got bent from the torgue of the saw i got it shut down so no trouble but the blade is trash.. so the splitter is tommrrows proiject
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Reno NV
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    13,361
    Quote Originally Posted by larry merlau View Post
    well i am one less in the blade department, had one lock up at 45??? dont know what cuase it but it got bent from the torgue of the saw i got it shut down so no trouble but the blade is trash.. so the splitter is tommrrows proiject
    Zoiks! Guess I'll figure out something for my ole G1023 as well. A jam up on a 45 cut would be kind of, um, interesting, to say the least....
    Programmer - An organism that turns coffee into software.
    If all your friends are exactly like you, What an un-interesting life it must be.
    "A door is what a dog is perpetually on the wrong side of" Ogden Nash


  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    GTA Ontario Canada
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    12,260
    Quote Originally Posted by larry merlau View Post
    well i am one less in the blade department, had one lock up at 45??? dont know what cuase it but it got bent from the torgue of the saw i got it shut down so no trouble but the blade is trash.. so the splitter is tommrrows proiject

    ???? help me out in understanding this it scared the heck out of me. To trash the blade does it mean the wood twisted in the 45 cut so as to force the blade to twist?? When you say the blade is trashed what is wrong with it after the incident?


    Dan seems your post skipped by us all. I like the idea looked at the Bork ones and think yours makes a good solution for my saw.

    I have been trying the plastic ones made by the gripper guys but they a little to flimsy for me.

    Thanks for sharing your fix. I think i could make the splitter and on my saw just slide it in the holder thats already there.
    cheers

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Reno NV
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    13,361
    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Keeble View Post
    I have been trying the plastic ones made by the gripper guys but they a little to flimsy for me.
    I think the work fine for perfectly vertical cuts, but the thing I like about doing a splitter like this is that it actually will tilt with the blade..

    Gotta take a look at doing this today.
    Programmer - An organism that turns coffee into software.
    If all your friends are exactly like you, What an un-interesting life it must be.
    "A door is what a dog is perpetually on the wrong side of" Ogden Nash


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