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Thread: Strip built kayak - strips?

  1. #1
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    Strip built kayak - strips?

    I am getting myself ready to build a strip built kayak.

    My first thought in making the strips is to take a flat sawn board - 3/4 thick and whatever wide I get - and cutting 1/4 thick strips from the side of the board. That will give me "quarter sawn" strips.

    -IF- I start out with a quarter sawn board - then cut 1/4 thick strips from the side of the board - that will give me flat sawn strips

    QUESTION -- does it matter that I use "flat sawn" or "quarter sawn" strips?

  2. #2
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    i don't think it would make that much of a difference. for myself, my only concern is that the strips be long enough to begin with. dreadfully embarrassing to come up short on one end or the other...
    benedictione omnes bene

    www.burroviejowoodworking.com

    check out my etsy store, buroviejowoodworking

  3. #3
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    Bing bing!

    Jeff Horton, please pick up the white courtesy phone.

    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

  4. #4
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    Leo,

    I've done it both ways and didn't notice a difference in either looks or "workability". To me, the more important thing is to try and get full length pieces. At least from an aesthetic point of view, I always thought a scarf in the middle of the strip looked lousy.

    The main thing I would pass along is to make sure you do a good job on putting a consistent, full cove and bead on the strips.

  5. #5
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    Feb 2007
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    Westphalia, Michigan
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    Leo, I haven't yet started my build but I did pick up the bead and cove bits. Interesting to me was meeting a guy in a self designed strip built hybrid kayak/canoe/pram........I'm not sure what to call it. But anyway he recommended using basswood instead of cedar. He claimed it was only 10% heavier but twice as strong. If you were to glass a finished boat and paint it the beauty of the cedar would be moot. He also said basswood was much easier to bend. Given his horn tooting for basswood and it's availability to me I plan on cutting and sawing some trees into planks for the project.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leo Voisine View Post
    QUESTION -- does it matter that I use "flat sawn" or "quarter sawn" strips?
    Looks are the only thing that will change. There is no strength difference, the strength comes from the fiberglass. So just cut what ever looks best to your eye.


    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Downes View Post
    .....If you were to glass a finished boat and paint it the beauty of the cedar would be moot.
    Why would you put all that work into one and then paint it????

    As for bead and cove, I chose to do rolling bevels on the deck of mine. Most people say after doing one that the bead and cove are not worth the extra effort. Of course some prefer them too, but I think most don't do it a second time. One of those things that looks better than it works maybe?
    God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway,
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    and the eyesight to tell the difference.


    Kudzu Craft Lightweight Skin on frame Kayaks.
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  7. #7
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    [QUOTE=
    Why would you put all that work into one and then paint it????

    As for bead and cove, I chose to do rolling bevels on the deck of mine. Most people say after doing one that the bead and cove are not worth the extra effort. Of course some prefer them too, but I think most don't do it a second time. One of those things that looks better than it works maybe?[/QUOTE]



    Oh it will NOT be painted.

    I have read other comments on the cove and bead too. One comment I read from a teacher of building these things is that it makes it a little easier for the newbie - ME.

    I have also read about the strength being in the laminating of the fiberglass and resin - that makes a lot of sense.

    One importand thing I am picking up on - it to use full langth strips. SO - I an gonna need at least 18 foor boards - to get the strips I need for a 17 foot kayak.

    I will post on my progress - but I am SUPER slow and it is going to take me a year to do this.
    Last edited by Leo Voisine; 04-04-2009 at 01:32 PM.

  8. #8
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    I would disagree with not using the bead and cove as it makes a nicer looking job in the end. I built my canoe in 94 out of yellow cedar and have all the materials cut and ready to go for my Kayak ( just need to find the time now). I liked the bead and cove as it made a nice trough to apply the glue into while joining the boards. Rememeber to wipe the extra glue off the squeezes out as it will save lots of time later. Also pick the right time of year to do the glassing as I came into a hatching of small flies with my first time around and there are lots of little fly leggs in my first canoe. Just my 2 cents worth.
    Daily Thought: SOME PEOPLE ARE LIKE SLINKIES..... NOT REALLY GOOD FOR ANYTHING BUT THEY BRING A SMILE TO YOUR FACE WHEN PUSHED DOWN THE STAIRS...............

  9. #9
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    Drew,

    If I am REALLY super fast - I might be ready by late October or early November. That would be perfect timing - not much for flies.

    If I am the way I know I am - I will be ready about this time next year. Again, the timing would be really good, not much flies.

    If fact - I don't know a bad time of year - for the little bugs.

    I think the hot weather would be bad. I worked fiberglass once about 35 years ago. Too distant to really remember - but it was hot and sunny out. We did the job - but I was a lot younger then. I don't move as fast as I usta.

    For me - the jury is out there on the cove and bead - I don't have any experience - but I will.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
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    you may need boards that are longer than 18 ft for a 17 ft kayak. the 17 ft measurement is a straight line from bow to stern, you'll be going along a curve. best way to demonstrate this is if you have a 17 ft dia circle, to cover half the circumfrence, you're gonna need a board that is 26.5 ft (that's 26 ana haff feet larry), to cover half the circumfrence. a bit drastic, but it shows my point. what i would do, is measure along the widest part of the kayak, from bow to stern, and add 2 ft to that measurement.
    benedictione omnes bene

    www.burroviejowoodworking.com

    check out my etsy store, buroviejowoodworking

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