sleep on this one

Messages
2,323
Location
Houston, Texas
Receiver.jpg
If you were asked to make a wooden receiver something like this, not for the receiver per se but rather for the method you would use to attach caps, one over the mouthpiece and one over the ear piece which would work and allow you access if need to gain entry to the cavity in which the audio pieces fit, how would you do it? :huh:
I have no correct answer except one did work for me, :) What is your solution??
Shaz
 
Couple ideas.

One would be to cut a small groove around the ID of the caps and the OD of the mating part and use an O-ring to provide the interference fit.

Another would be to use a small burr bit on something like a dremel and carve an "L" shaped groove in the cap and place a small dowel in the mating part that would work as a partial turn fitting.

Can't wait to hear your solution and others ideas!
 
I think I'd make the end pieces on the lathe, like boxes, and the handle separately, then I'd chase the threads on the boxes, and have two boxes and one handle. I'd get out my coping saw and make the three pieces into one piece, with a lot of hand carving and sanding.

I'd make sure that the boxes and the handle had lots of thickness to them so I could shape and sand the piece into one unit.

I also think you are going to make more money flipping hamburgers than making this telephone, per hour :D
 
I hate those things. I used to have to work on them. The only thing I can think of is friction fit. So, did you cut the modular plug slot for the handset cord or are you using a hard wired handset cord?
 
Some interesting renditions on the same theme, any other ideas, remember the bad news is there are 2 caps to make, the good news is ... they are the same in the connection.:wave:
Shaz
 
okay shaz, if i where faced with building the handset i would have taken one of two approaches to attach the mouth-n-ear piece.....
1) inset threaded connectors cut off of a plastic phone (or metal connectors)
2) subed out the thread cutting to a guy with a thread cutting lathe
sooooooo, how`d you approach it?
 
All of the caps I have ever seen are screw on and they have all been plastic. Even pay phones were plastic. You just had a tool to fit over top of them that allowed you to tighten the fool out of them.

How hard is satinwood? Could he have used a plastic handset to cut the threads in the wood? The threads in the real handsets are very fine.
 
So, did you cut the modular plug slot for the handset cord or are you using a hard wired handset cord?

Hey Travis, Not sure about the terminology you are using but as I recall the wire coming into the handset through the hole in the bottom was hard wired to the mouth piece and that was connected ( through a pre arranged channel in the handle during the glue up) to the ear piece. I don't remember using the contemporary plug in part.:huh:
Shaz
 
Couple ideas.



Another would be to use a small burr bit on something like a dremel and carve an "L" shaped groove in the cap and place a small dowel in the mating part that would work as a partial turn fitting.

Can't wait to hear your solution and others ideas!
Hi Ed, I can see where you are going with that, I think I have seen something like that in an aluminum lock system.
Shaz :)

I think I'd make the end pieces on the lathe, like boxes, and the handle separately, then I'd chase the threads on the boxes, and have two boxes and one handle. I'd get out my coping saw and make the three pieces into one piece, with a lot of hand carving and sanding.

I'd make sure that the boxes and the handle had lots of thickness to them so I could shape and sand the piece into one unit.
Hi Stuart, Thanks for your input. I think you are leading up to a real screw on project! :rolleyes:

I also think you are going to make more money flipping hamburgers than making this telephone, per hour :D
I am glad to hear your thoughts about pay per hour because in our business as with most others, time is money. Flipping burgers---$6.75 and all the meat you can eat, making a $2500.00 phone, $ 6.73 per hour and no meat :(

Three point cam twist-lock with over center plateau.
Hi Frank,
I'll bet that would work on the next phone, I'll call you:D.
Shaz :)
 
okay shaz, if i where faced with building the handset i would have taken one of two approaches to attach the mouth-n-ear piece.....
1) inset threaded connectors cut off of a plastic phone (or metal connectors)
2) subed out the thread cutting to a guy with a thread cutting lathe
sooooooo, how`d you approach it?
Hi Tod, You always have such great ideas. Where were you Twenty years ago when I took this job?:doh: :D I know I need to answer with my solution but it will end alot of the thought process,so I will sleep on it and wait till tomorrow. I hope you understand.
Shaz :)
 
okay shaz, if i where faced with building the handset i would have taken one of two approaches to attach the mouth-n-ear piece.....
1) inset threaded connectors cut off of a plastic phone (or metal connectors)
2) subed out the thread cutting to a guy with a thread cutting lathe
sooooooo, how`d you approach it?
While trying to figure this out myself I thought of the purpose it had to serve and the problems over time that could occur. I decided on male and female threads in the thinking of Tod. The threads of the plastic phones were too fine I thought as Travis mentioned and thus I decided against that but the idea seemed right. In manufacturing the handset I decided to stay with the exact interior housing dimension too as I didn't want the mouth piece shaking around inside. it needed to be seated correctly so that gave me an odd size hole to insert threads into. About 2 3/16" or something like that, and for the female to be mounted in the cap the piece could only be 3/8" to 1/2" as I recall. My search began, "The answer is out there"! and so was the product, I say the product because I was looking for the container that had a lid 2 3/16" OD with course threads for ease of screwing on and of 300 times but enough threads in a short distance to work. I wanted the female threads in the cap and needed straight shoulders on both male and female parts to somehow attach to the straight wooden interior walls of the phone. I figured why not go to the health food store so off I went with my stick rule in hand on a quest for the elusive threads. For a while I was concerned as holes were already cut into the wood:eek: to exactly the same size as would have been in the plastic phone. I measured face cremes and face creams, ointments and elixers from many different manufacturers, soft cream, hard stuff, all had to be opened and some smelled bad:eek: some good, but I had to experience the way the threads worked:huh:
 
Some of the stuff could be poured out, some had soft rocks in the containers, so did I find the prize:rolleyes: I DID...:thumb: :thumb: :D :thumb: :thumb: Alas the elusive little container just the right size and just the right thread. A firm little thing weighty enough to be thrown from home to first base with some accuracy. A nice white container about 2 1/2" tall with firm sides. Delighted in my find, ( almost as happy as the time Heidi Klum called me to come over for popcorn:D ) home I went, with the perfect piece, like a fisherman with a perfect fish, well not quite perfect TILL I CUT IT UP!!!!!!!:rofl: The ointment, one of "David's" product line needed cleaned out, saved :rolleyes: no, not now. cleaned real good and then.. I took the base with the cap still on for rigidity and bandsawed off some of the bottom( learning, cutting round things on the bandsaw can be pulled into the blade!!!!!):eek: To get to the correct depth I used a table sander to true up the bottom. I took the lid and used the disc and table sander to get rid of the flat part leaving just the female thread ring. They worked like a charm when inserted into the existing pockets of Satinwood, And to think:rolleyes: I owe it all to a little plastic jar of "David's" hemorrhoid creme!!!!!!:D :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: Put that to your ear, it worked!!!!!!!!
Shaz
 
Top