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Thread: cutting molding

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Winchester Ky.
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    98

    cutting molding

    Need your expert advice. What brand and type of blade would you all recommend to use on a chop saw to cut wood frame molding? Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Delton, Michigan
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    17,470
    freud 80 tooth, made for chop saws,,the red one
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Rochester Hills, MI
    Posts
    940
    I just finished up trimming out a great room, dining room, and hallway for a customer last week. I did a three piece built up molding with a 1x6 for the base, a 1/2" cove for the shoe, and a 1-1/4" base cap for the top. I sanded, stained, and put three good coats of Minwax Polycrilic on all of the trim before I started.

    I used a Dewalt 80T fine finish blade on my my 12" Dewalt double bevel compound miter saw. (One SWEET tool ) Not a chip in site and it worked great. I was careful to always cut from the finished side and it worked fine. On one cut even being careful I did get a tiny bit of tear out if I cut from the back side but after that I was careful as to which way I cut and it worked very well. It left a SUPER smooth clean cut in the #2 or better pine I was using.

    John
    "The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten"

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Delton, Michigan
    Posts
    17,470
    john, red is faster than yellow but yellow makes a good blade too
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Rochester Hills, MI
    Posts
    940
    Quote Originally Posted by larry merlau View Post
    john, red is faster than yellow but yellow makes a good blade too
    Yeah,
    I've got a nice Freud that I bought a few years ago and it's still going strong. Although it is ready for a trip to the sharpener. It's only a 7-1/4" but it's the one designed to cut laminate flooring. I've installed a ton of flooring with that thing and it really works well. It's going to be worth sharpening though because it cost about $80 new.

    John
    Last edited by John Pollman; 04-07-2009 at 11:43 AM.
    "The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten"

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Kea'au Hawaii. Just down the road from Hilo town!
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    1,357
    Wow!! 80 bucks for a 7 1/4" blade!!??? Sounds like you've gotten your money back out of it!
    Aloha,

    What goes around, comes around.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    ozarks
    Posts
    4,993
    i use full kerfed ammana blades...for general use on a sliding mitersaw i like the 80t non-ferrous metal blades.
    [SIZE="1"] associated with several importers and manufacturers.[/SIZE]

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Rochester Hills, MI
    Posts
    940
    Quote Originally Posted by Royall Clark View Post
    Wow!! 80 bucks for a 7 1/4" blade!!??? Sounds like you've gotten your money back out of it!

    Laminate flooring just eats up blades! Even good quality carbide tipped blades. The aluminum oxide that they use in the wear layer of the laminate just chews up blades. I found this out the hard and expensive way. I found this Freud which is a 54t blade with a triple chip grind. It holds up very well to the laminate flooring. I bought it when I started a 2000 square foot laminate installation job. I ruined a brand new carbide blade in short order. Then I discovered this Freud blade and it's been well worth the money. I finished that particular job and have done at least three other decent sized installations since.

    John
    "The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten"

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